Please buy a bunch of these playfields so big game might get a run too. I have zero clue why they are willing to make this and not Big Game. At worst they would have the same interest level.

I’ve offered a perfect donor Big Game playfield on multiple occasions and they’ve turned me down. Hopefully this good news on Cheetah will change their mind on Big Game in the future.

Yep. I think this is it really. He harped on the little to no interest in new plastic sets, so that’s why I got confused when you said they are moving forward with Cheetah even though they sold barely any plastic sets for that too. No big deal, I just hope they eventually decide to make Cheetah and Big Game.

I’m very interested in a cheetah PF even though I don’t own it. Haha

Weebly is a drop in replacement just like alltek. I don’t think you can change the roms in that either.

So I don’t think it will help your situation.

Damn that’s awesome!

Special is probably worth 100k

If either of you do that for big game and have original big game spinners, can I buy them and send you a standard stern spinner?

The bands of the diodes point to power. Eos switch is connected to power and the middle lug.

I’m not an expert on reading schematics, but it appears the blue wire is power as it’s connected to the fuse.

So this wiring appears right.

Its easy to confirm. Use a meter to measure which wire power is going to.

Oh okay. Well I guess I don’t know how to read the schematic then. By the lines alone it appears to me that the eos doesn’t hook to the orange wire at all.

I’m finally going to be a member of the club! My good friend I making me a scratch build of a black cabinet cheetah. Gonna be a while, but I can’t wait!

No idea. I’m sure a few games will be sacrificed to make this. I think he’s mostly killing F2Ks, hot hand, and meteors with his scratch builds.

Ooooo. Ahhhhhhh.

24FE154B-8466-4B5F-8EE7-D5C11102DA41 (resized).jpeg

Jjsmooth is doing this, but I believe these are the stock colors. Then there’s a blue version that a small number of games did, but I like the black better.

I’m used to the big game cabinet, so the cheetah black cabinet scheme is amazing compared to that. Haha

Can i get a playfield picture from this vantage point from someone’s completed game? I need it to do a minitorial on the games rules, and mine is not complete yet. Haha.

D85FEDEF-5F98-41E8-B214-2F8C7F21FCEB (resized).jpeg

Slingshot rubber needs to be tucked behind the metal ball guide.

There’s also really no point to have rubber on that post.

Put smaller rings on the slings will fix it too.

My cheetah should be ready next month!!

911F0F6E-63EA-46D8-8519-FB3D5A40A031 (resized).jpeg

Not sure. If they are, I’ll fix it later.

Would it be any different to leave it this way and skip the posts?

I assume it works as this is his second cheetah he’s done. Shrug. I’ll ask him.

Confirmed it will be cut before final assembly and posts added.

I need a source for the spinner switch arms that go through the playfield. I need 3 of them.

Will do thanks! Right now it has those cheapo Brunswick spinners in it. I might try the beefier generic white spinners PBR has.

Here’s some more pics!!

04AC08B4-DD87-4EC9-8E57-16095BC8F82C.jpeg

066E5649-7231-4717-971C-8709FC4095B7.jpeg

2010A8CC-5EF7-4E56-8303-622971CFA00C.jpeg

2024C276-55EF-4378-AD7A-4F69B3219162.jpeg

4DF7761B-902E-43CB-80C8-D8188B81D221.jpeg

543977DB-B191-421F-8AE5-3D0CCB1F1A9D.jpeg

8DC84D2B-396A-43B1-B3DA-6FF261CD63B8.jpeg

92E14FA3-1A4D-4E29-B308-2EF12E61A008.jpeg

9F4E041C-6EE3-48FF-8390-1B78A0905169.jpeg

A08651AA-B8FF-4A43-AB45-F7CCB96E45CD.jpeg

A9EAAABB-EE65-4F8E-B95A-65C96E3C1E95.jpeg

B625A2A2-7B5A-401C-A872-F6E47F843099.jpeg

C2D79875-CB81-4956-989E-7D21BFE81D39.jpeg

CBBA5DD8-0F10-4185-A67D-B2323DAE3395.jpeg

CF899577-3286-41E1-B944-B989E0089DA8.jpeg

DF93AEA1-1DB1-47C4-8B1B-03E05C59B11A.jpeg

Thanks for the added info. I can just enlarge the bracket holes if these new spinners arms are too big. The Brunswick spinner arms are super flimsy. I don’t like them for long term viability. And yes they slow down quickly.

yep! The head was salvaged, but the body is fully new.

Do I need pins to secure my left orbit ball guide to the wood rail? My ball guide has no holes in it and it gives a lot when the ball hits the bend and kills its momentum.

8C3A921D-BC0A-43D0-BACD-1D4FC54DBCF5 (resized).jpeg

CE34B92D-DB90-47C4-A740-39661551B74B (resized).jpeg

Also. Where should the bottom flippers be aligned?

Got the 475 coils in mine, EOS is opening right at the end of the stroke, and I’m struggling to get the ball to make the full left orbit. I think I need to drop them a bit to get stronger orbit shots.

Does the long left orbit ball guide use the nails? From pics of the OG games it appears there are no nails in that guide.

So I was thinking strong, thin, double sided tape.

Yep. Saw that last night. Thanks for confirming. Adjusted them both and now the outside shots have much more power. The left orbit ball guide is robbing power though as it has slop in it. I feel once I get that secured to the left wall, those orbit shots will consistently make it all the way up.

K think I have the game a tad too steep too.

Also noticed he put Bally flippers in it. Changed to stern and no more flipper hop.

So he’s now making them with the holes in them? Mine were made by him but had no holes.

I’d honestly just rather buy the updated rails so I don’t mess up. I’ll contact him. Thanks!

PM sent!

No. They have resisters on the yopps. That’s why they are awesome. However I have a few blown scrs on this board. Haha. I have 3 insert lamps out.

Still tweaking. Haven’t played a game yet. But I’d say with the custom roms that don’t allow you to collect bonus over and over, 3mm seems like a good goal.

down to my last couple items. the 5 bank. I have a couple drops that are dropping on reset (1 and 5) occasionally. Then I have 2 of the drop down coils that I can here clicking, but it does not drop the target. 2 and 3. Thoughts on fixing these two issues?

Got it. Looks like the drop coils have two springs on them? Which on should I tighten to try and fix the memory function for a couple targets?

K. They used to have very weak springs on them. I had almost all of them dropping on reset. Stronger springs fixed all but the 5 drop target. I think that one might be too weak still. I’ll see about tightening up the drop coil springs.

Ooooo. Good call.

Also, should the 5 target have a drop down coil on it?

Oh. Yeah that is interesting. I’ll keep that in mind when troubleshooting.

Alright. Progress. Adjusting the reset bar on the 5 target side got my bank resetting good with no dropping targets upon reset.

Now for the 2,3,4 drop down coils. When they fire, they barely move the ledge at all. It basically just giggles. Could that be a grounding issue?

Can someone help me with the 5 bank? I need a top down picture of the drops when they are up, and when they are down. I want to see where they line up in the playfield cut out.

Thanks so much. I think I have two issues. I’m missing a rod that goes across the mech, and I might not have the one I have on there in the right spot.
0DC697EE-1F8C-4CB9-979D-51D8B139811E (resized).jpeg

Also, I wonder if the springs I have are too strong, it doesn’t let the finger throw the drop off of it.

Your rods are oriented differently than the 9 ball mech above. I assume yours works properly in the game?

Where can I get another rod for this bad boy?

Can someone show me the wire color of the 5 arrow and where that goes into the lamp driver board? It’s not on the schematic.

Thanks!

Thanks! Since this is a scratch build I have to add a wire from here to the board t get this puppy to light up.

Thanks again!

All set up! Loving this so far. Seems there’s tons of different avenues for points. Rare for a game this age.

8F347F31-2B61-47A6-8714-2CEB35254342 (resized).jpeg

Can I get a pic of someone’s tilt bob wiring? If I add a cap to my game, the game goes to tilt the moment a new game is started. Cap is not shorted. Tested with a DMM.

Thanks! My wiring is good. The moment I add a cap to the mix, the game tilts. Not sure how that’s possible. The cap has no continuity.

It’s a 104 disc cap.

I want the cap to work. It’s needed for the tilt to register properly. Maybe I don’t know how a cap works? Why would it immediately cause the tilt to register? What could be happening with the other switches on the red yellow wire that could cause the cap to do this?

Sorry. Trying to learn.

Goes to A4J3-15

C718CBAE-60DB-4FC9-91F1-0F8938376BAC (resized).jpeg

Oh dang! I just saw these. Will they work?

B6DD9442-9BFF-4AC1-8EA5-A28D707188D3 (resized).jpeg

On it. I know the stand up has one. I’ll check the others.

Can you explain why a cap when connected to a tilt switch would immediately register the tilt?

Very helpful! Thanks so much. I’ll do this test tonight. I think my DMM is auto ranging. I have a nice Klein one.

Assuming I did this right, the reading is 113.3 I put the leads on the tab attached to the tilt ring and the one off to the side like cottonm4 ’s pic shows how his cap is wired up.

697131F8-DCD7-456D-AD8D-03C27504D76B (resized).jpeg

Yeah. Definitely multiple mistakes in the schematics for this game.

Tilt behaves the same whether the blue wire is swapped with the red wire or not.

Red yellow wire goes to the pin on the connector per the schematic. Looks good.

Tilt works. Just doesn’t register unless it stays in contact with the ring long enough. Hence why the put caps on these. I just can’t figure why anytime I add a cap to the equation it immediately registers.

Yes the cap is wired so one end is touching one wire and the other end is touching another wire.

I believe it’s wired just like the pic above and also how my big game is wired.

Big game:

31489551-C753-4E73-A4B1-49C8FB8DA52C (resized).jpeg

I just don’t get how a cap doesn’t have continuity, but when I attach it to two things that also do not have continuity, it immediately create continuity. Haha.

Still does it when J2 is unplugged. DOES NOT do it when J3 is unplugged.

Isn’t the blue orange wire at J3 as well?

THANK YOU!!

Okay I now have this wired up correctly and it still does an immediate register when I add the cap.

Also. I noticed I have no caps on the standup or the sling shots. If I try to add a cap to those switches they register rapid fire too. Maybe I got bad caps? I’ve tried multiple kinds and it’s still doing it.

Seems something is not wired right in the game such that adding caps to any switch is not working right.

This game has lots of unused switches. None of the slam tilts are installed. None of the coin chute switches are installed.

I’ll post my tilt bob wiring, but it’s going to be hard to follow since I only had one color wire to wire up the diode like you instructed.

I’ll post up some pictures later today after I do some other testing.