Will do thanks! Right now it has those cheapo Brunswick spinners in it. I might try the beefier generic white spinners PBR has.

Here’s some more pics!!

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Beautiful!!

Steve made those in his own shop. You will need the spinner brackets with the larger Bally holes since Bally used a larger diameter axle wire---unless the Brunswicks also use the larger wire.

This will piss him off but ask how much they weigh. The heavier spinners spin longer and bring more points. Lighter spinners wind up fast but also slow down fast.

Here are some options:

This Bally unit from Marco weighs .8 oz/ 22.5 grams. That's too light. This is if Marco's text can be believed.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3460

For reference: Big Game spinners weigh 34 grams.

For reference: Dracula, Nugent, and Hot Hand spinners weigh 27 grams. ( Install a Big Game spinner in one of these MPU-100 pins and you will mess with the scoring.

This spinner for Williams weighs in at 1.5 oz. Or 42 grams. ( I don't believe this number ). Way too heavy.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7861

Here is same spinner in black. Text says it weighs 1.25 oz. 35 grams. This is good if that Marco weight is correct.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7861-K

For me, I would not buy any of these until they weigh them fresh to get a good weight.

I think this is the spinner bracket you need. But I believe there are different sizes so pay attention.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8341

Thanks for the added info. I can just enlarge the bracket holes if these new spinners arms are too big. The Brunswick spinner arms are super flimsy. I don’t like them for long term viability. And yes they slow down quickly.

Is your cabinet a scratch build? It looks new.

yep! The head was salvaged, but the body is fully new.

Do I need pins to secure my left orbit ball guide to the wood rail? My ball guide has no holes in it and it gives a lot when the ball hits the bend and kills its momentum.

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Also. Where should the bottom flippers be aligned?

Got the 475 coils in mine, EOS is opening right at the end of the stroke, and I’m struggling to get the ball to make the full left orbit. I think I need to drop them a bit to get stronger orbit shots.

Stern used some very small 1/2" nails. I use #4 1/2" stainless steel screws.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-x-3-8-in-Phillips-Pan-Head-Stainless-Steel-Sheet-Metal-Screw-8-Pack-800921/204275384

If you have a hardware store that stocks a lot of fasteners you might find them there.

You will need to match drill a small hole in your rail wood for the screw. For a small nail, just a hammer.

Try to align the ball guides to where they are going to have a smooth flow to and from wherever.

Does the long left orbit ball guide use the nails? From pics of the OG games it appears there are no nails in that guide.

So I was thinking strong, thin, double sided tape.

I'm just guessing that you will want to set them up with a bit of angle from your flipper ball guides. Look at your Big Game. You should see a small hole in the play field behind each lower flipper. I don't know if CPR added these holes to Cheetah, or not.

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Can you show a couple of good pics, please. One close up and one at distance.

What slope are you setting it at? Too steep might be a problem. But man, I have 475s in my Big Game and the flippers can sail the ball up the play field, thru the pops and enter in 3 inlanes in reverse. And I have my Big Game sloped at 7.5 degrees.

Also, double-check your settings on your Weebly board. You are probably OK but when I got my Dragonfist several years ago I thought I was hosed. The flippers were absolutely week. The pin came to me with an Alltek MPU. On the Alltek MPU there are two jumper pins with one position for Bally and one position for Sterns.

The retailer claimed to have play tested the pin before he shipped. That was a flat out lie. The game was not playable on the Bally jumper config. When I corrected the pin jumpers the pin tuned into a screaming demon.

There's holes behind the flippers that normally have short pins sticking out about 1/4" which the flippers rest against. Your left flipper is correctly aligned to the pin hole but your right flipper isn't.

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Yep. Saw that last night. Thanks for confirming. Adjusted them both and now the outside shots have much more power. The left orbit ball guide is robbing power though as it has slop in it. I feel once I get that secured to the left wall, those orbit shots will consistently make it all the way up.

K think I have the game a tad too steep too.

Also noticed he put Bally flippers in it. Changed to stern and no more flipper hop.

The left rail has 5 nail points on the original spaced 2-7/8” apart from each other. I had an original bent up one that djblouw and I just compared to update his rail files in the last couple weeks. (Thanks again Daane!)

So he’s now making them with the holes in them? Mine were made by him but had no holes.

Yes, his original files didn’t have the holes included but Daane was awesome to work with me on making some adjustments on the upper right rail and I let him know about the rail holes. You can drill holes like I did on this one, just make sure you use cutting oil because these rails are quality steel!

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I’d honestly just rather buy the updated rails so I don’t mess up. I’ll contact him. Thanks!

chuckwurt

Drop me a line and I'll get you a replacement part.

When these were originally made they were just produced from sketches, not originals. And some of the detail/dimensions needed to be corrected. As play_pinball mentioned, we've got them adjusted based off from actual pieces now.

PM sent!

I am surprise there is an original lamp board with Yopsicle installed, you don't need an LED compatible board or LED adapter for those?

No. They have resisters on the yopps. That’s why they are awesome. However I have a few blown scrs on this board. Haha. I have 3 insert lamps out.

So how's game play? Not too shabby, eh? What score are you aiming to get? Mine came from Game Galaxy in TN and had a high score of about 2.5 mil. I've passed that number once or twice.

Still tweaking. Haven’t played a game yet. But I’d say with the custom roms that don’t allow you to collect bonus over and over, 3mm seems like a good goal.

down to my last couple items. the 5 bank. I have a couple drops that are dropping on reset (1 and 5) occasionally. Then I have 2 of the drop down coils that I can here clicking, but it does not drop the target. 2 and 3. Thoughts on fixing these two issues?

My 5 bank worked perfectly until I recently changed out the drop targets and then it went really wonky, targets dropping with vibration, etc. Tightening the springs on the release coils by one link improved it 90%, still need to play with to get them perfect.

So I'd say grab the coil springs on 1 & 5 and pull them one link tighter. And just guessing on 2 & 3 but I'd start by tightening up the target springs a bit.

Got it. Looks like the drop coils have two springs on them? Which on should I tighten to try and fix the memory function for a couple targets?

Is there a second spring on the coil? I'm going on memory, not at home right now. I'm only remembering the short spring that pulls the metal L-bracket towards the drop target. I grabbed the end of the spring, pulled it and hooked the next link around the little metal protrusion that it was hooked on. There has to be a better way to verbalize this but I don't really know what anything is called.

And for the drops that aren't dropping, I'd do the same except this time with the spring that's attached to the target itself. The guess is that more tension will remedy both issues...

K. They used to have very weak springs on them. I had almost all of them dropping on reset. Stronger springs fixed all but the 5 drop target. I think that one might be too weak still. I’ll see about tightening up the drop coil springs.

Don't forget you can adjust the stern reset bar height by loosening the set screws and twisting to get more height on the non coil side.

Ooooo. Good call.

Also, should the 5 target have a drop down coil on it?

No, only drop targets 1 through 4 use memory coils.

I don't know if this will help you of if it even applies but I took a look at my Nine Ball drop assembly to see how it works.

When a ball hits a target it knocks the target down. When the lift bar goes into action it lifts all targets back up to rest position. There is nothing new in what I just said.

What is interesting to me is how the memory targets and the coils work. When the lift bar raises all targets, the coils for each target that needs to be in the down position activate to pull that target forward---the target does just not fall off the lift finger when it is pulled forward. The drop action happens when the coil releases the target and it snaps backwards with a bounce and that bounce pulls/jerks the target away from the lift finger and the target drops. It is a rather ingeniuos engineering design, IMO.

Oh. Yeah that is interesting. I’ll keep that in mind when troubleshooting.

Thanks for posting! I didn’t know that and it might be the final tweak mine needs

Alright. Progress. Adjusting the reset bar on the 5 target side got my bank resetting good with no dropping targets upon reset.

Now for the 2,3,4 drop down coils. When they fire, they barely move the ledge at all. It basically just giggles. Could that be a grounding issue?

Can someone help me with the 5 bank? I need a top down picture of the drops when they are up, and when they are down. I want to see where they line up in the playfield cut out.

When I get home a little later I can take pics of my Nine Ball drop assembly

DELETE

Thanks so much. I think I have two issues. I’m missing a rod that goes across the mech, and I might not have the one I have on there in the right spot.
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Also, I wonder if the springs I have are too strong, it doesn’t let the finger throw the drop off of it.

Here’s a video I took in slow motion of the drop target action.

Your rods are oriented differently than the 9 ball mech above. I assume yours works properly in the game?

Where can I get another rod for this bad boy?

Mine is oriented in the way it was when I bought it 10+ years ago. It also matches the Nine Ball mech that was linked in the other thread. cottonm4 I think yours is in the wrong spot…

https://pinballhelp.com/rebuilding-drop-target-assemblies-on-early-stern-bally-solid-state-games/

OK. Here is my latest. I had that steel rod in the wrong hole. With the rod now in the correct position, it holds the targets stable as the coil pulls the finger in and the steel rod makes the targets drop. I deleted my original post because it was junk.

Both rods lock into the drop target frame using 2 "C" clips on one end only. On the other end, both rods are just floating in the holes. Somehow my assembly worked with the steel rod installed incorrectly. Beats me.

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Why one rod is brass and the other steel is a puzzle that I am clueless about.

Both of these rods each have a pair of grooves for the "C" clips to lock then into the frame. The reason only one end locks in is because the other end has the coil sitting in the way.

I think you are going to have to hire a local machine shop to make you a steel rod to match your brass rod because both of those grooves have to be there---and I consider these grooves to be close tolerance measurements. Hopefully you can find a price friendly machine shop.

You might. and I stress "might" be able to buy this 5-bank pivot shaft from Marco and if it fits in the frame holes, perhaps a machine shop can just cut in one extra groove like what is on your brass rod. But I am not a trained machinist, so no real clue.

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https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2A-225-5

I would be lost without pinside where collective minds can figure things out.

the brass one doesn't get magnetized by the small coils.

Can someone show me the wire color of the 5 arrow and where that goes into the lamp driver board? It’s not on the schematic.

Thanks!

use a smaller rubber on your sling as well, make it tighter to the posts

This is a interesting discovery. 3 pages are associated with the feature lights. On both pages #1 and #2 that show feature lights, it is a glaring omission.

Hopefully some one with a Cheetah will come in.

I'll have to correct my manuals.

Here’s the wire red / wht , I’ll check the back box when I get a chance.

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