Who's gonna make a proper BG for Cheetah?
Quoted from mof:Who's gonna make a proper BG for Cheetah?
BG = back glass ? If so, then B G Resto.
Quoted from mof:I meant to ask -- who's gonna make a proper alternate?
And what is a proper alternate?
Would an owner mind posting some photos of their wiring pinouts? I'm starting to get things going on my scratch build and the original playfield harness I got is decently hacked up. Of course SEI's schematics have their flaws too, so even just starting to re-pin the harness I've had a few headscratchers.
For example, the schematics say the "ball kicker" coil uses a red-white wire, but my connector seems to be pinned with a white-black. Scouring through photos, it looks like @tractordoc's may also have a white-black coil return wire?
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I think slochar has mentioned wanting to clean up these manuals. Does anyone have a list of errors for Cheetah?
And just an example of what needs to be cleaned up...
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Quoted from play_pinball:Would an owner mind posting some photos of their wiring pinouts? I'm starting to get things going on my scratch build and the original playfield harness I got is decently hacked up. Of course SEI's schematics have their flaws too, so even just starting to re-pin the harness I've had a few headscratchers.
For example, the schematics say the "ball kicker" coil uses a red-white wire, but my connector seems to be pinned with a white-black. Scouring through photos, it looks like TractorDoc's may also have a white-black coil return wire?
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I think slochar has mentioned wanting to clean up these manuals. Does anyone have a list of errors for Cheetah?
And just an example of what needs to be cleaned up...
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Stern substituted wire. On my Big Game 4 wires were subbed. Purple/black was replaced by brown/black, for example. I figure the production line ran out of pur/bulk and was not going to shut down the line. I’m guessing this is what you are dealing with.
It will be 2-3 days before I can get time, but I can pull my Cheetah harness out and take some pics of the connectors for you
If your blk/wht wire traces back to the correct pin on your connector, then the wire was substituted
In the end, your key is what color of wire is on the connector and that is what you go with.
I am assuming your blk/wht wire traces back to the connector pin at A3-J2-15. Is this correct?
Just picked up a nice Cheetah! Not sure if I'll keep it or sell it, I want to play it for a while & make it play/sound/look as good as possible. Anything I should do? I have black cabinet. I see there are alternate sound roms that I might try, but is there any alternate or improved roms for the game code?
Quoted from play_pinball:Would an owner mind posting some photos of their wiring pinouts? I'm starting to get things going on my scratch build and the original playfield harness I got is decently hacked up. Of course SEI's schematics have their flaws too, so even just starting to re-pin the harness I've had a few headscratchers.
For example, the schematics say the "ball kicker" coil uses a red-white wire, but my connector seems to be pinned with a white-black. Scouring through photos, it looks like TractorDoc's may also have a white-black coil return wire?
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I think slochar has mentioned wanting to clean up these manuals. Does anyone have a list of errors for Cheetah?
And just an example of what needs to be cleaned up...
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As promised, here are some pics of my Cheetah play field harness.
It stretches out to 9 feet long.
Here are the board connectors.
I have wiring for 3 connectors on the SDU. I am missing the connectors for two right hand side pins.
I have wiring for the two top connectors for the MPU.
And I have wiring for 3 connectors on the LDA.
The cabinet harness will take up one set of pins on the MPU. But I don't know where my other connectors are at. I bought a populated Cheetah play field off of Ebay. And this is all I can recall of pulling wire from the play field. I'll have to headache out the missing wire connectors when the time comes ( since I was so new when I bought this play field, I may have put part of the harness into my grab bag of wire).
I can get you pics of the connectors that I have. Tell me what you need to see pics of. I will oblige.
Thanks cottonm4 -- I look forward to you getting that project off the ground too. We may be ships in the night on our current projects as after I do Cheetah, I'm going to do Nine Ball. I think I have the connectors figured out (at least theoretically until I get to laying it out on the playfield, which likely won't happen until December because of a long vacation to Australia coming up in about 10 days!
Does anyone know if there are roms that provide both the prototype sounds, as well as the rules with 1 bonus shot per ball?
Quoted from robx46:Does anyone know if there are roms that provide both the prototype sounds, as well as the rules with 1 bonus shot per ball?
Yep rev 16
http://tsqmadness.com/slochar/ZIP/
Quoted from Bellystyle:What do y'all think? Can the Cheetah gal be considered a Gypsy?
I don't think so.
Quoted from cottonm4:I don't think so.
Upon further inspection, Africa (where most of the Cheetahs are) is one of the largest concentrations of the Romani outside of Europe. African Gypsies aren't so uncommon to this day.
Screenshot_20221123-233728 (resized).pngMy Cheetah has an AQ-26-600 coil for lower left flipper assembly. The other two are 25-500. Is this typical for cheetah or should I replace?
Per the manual they should all 3 be J-25-475/34-4500*
*Technically the manual says "J-25-475/34-3400" but since SEI manual were prone to error (that's not a coil that exists, to my knowledge), I'm going off Inkochnito's tech chart: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Stern_Cheetah_Tech_Chart.pdf
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Quoted from robx46:My Cheetah has an AQ-26-600 coil for lower left flipper assembly. The other two are 25-500. Is this typical for cheetah or should I replace?
Stern manual calls out for J-25-475/34-3400. It does not specify any other flipper coil number so assume all 3 should be this number.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/500/Stern_1980_Cheetah_Manual.pdf
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Put in the 475s and you will probably enjoy playing it more.
Quoted from robx46:My Cheetah has an AQ-26-600 coil for lower left flipper assembly. The other two are 25-500.
AQ-26-600 is a Bally spec coil. Stern didn't use them.
Swap it with the upper left coil for now until you get the right ones.
I figured that was the case. I have the correct coil here I just wanted to make sure this wasn't intentionally done by Stern. Thanks everyone!
Quoted from robx46:Can anyone tell me why this could be happening? Maybe wrong rubber for the mini post? I got the rubber ring set from marco. Should this be using the even smaller rubber? Ball does fit down the same lane on the other side but just barely.
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Looks like you have 7/16" minipost rubbers on there, switch to the 3/8" size. But still might be a tight squeeze on that side, make sure the post is not bent. Perhaps the slingshot rubber is just a bit thicker than another brand.
Looks like bad CPR spotting strikes again. I double check ALL of them now after getting burned on trusting them on three different replacement fields.
The sling posts might need a nudge to the left.
Quoted from play_pinball:That doesn’t look like a CPR playfield to me.
Yeah looking back guess not my phone screen is small.... So rubber and you could still move the posts.
Quoted from robx46:Ball does fit down the same lane on the other side but just barely.
Try putting the slingshot rubber on the inside of the wireform. All my Sterns slingshots are rubbered this way.
Quoted from robx46:Can anyone tell me why this could be happening? Maybe wrong rubber for the mini post? I got the rubber ring set from marco. Should this be using the even smaller rubber? Ball does fit down the same lane on the other side but just barely.
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Slingshot rubber needs to be tucked behind the metal ball guide.
There’s also really no point to have rubber on that post.
Quoted from Quench:Try putting the slingshot rubber on the inside of the wireform. All my Sterns slingshots are rubbered this way.
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On my Lightning those two rails are not high enough to have the rubbers tucked behind them nor would they stay there if they were. They are merely touching the bottom of the rings, barely, they are not affecting the position of the rings. I have no problems with clearance, and I even have larger 7/16" minipost rubbers.
Cannot really tell how high those rails are on the Cheetah from that angle. Problem could be the rails are actually a tiny bit *high* and the rings are being pooched outward a bit, reducing ball clearance. But the rubbers along there seem to be straight and not pooched out. Having them tucked in like that does not look 'right', to me anyway. And the point where the ball is going to get stuck is practically right next to the top sling post so can't see the tucking making a difference here. Well, maybe just enough to let the ball barely eke thru there if it's still getting stuck.
Probably didn't have a problem if it had the skinnier type rubber rings in them old days, along with 3/8" post rubbers which the manual does specify instead of those fatter ones. So yeah a little bit smaller sling ring would thin it out too. Still seems the alignment of everything around there is just a tiny bit off, enough to cause this issue. I think you can still find skinnier rings but you shouldn't really have to resort to that.
Quoted from frenchmarky:Still seems the alignment of everything around there is just a tiny bit off,
Is the other side the same way?
Thanks for the tips. Between tucking the rubber in & using the proper smaller post rubber things are definitely better.
Quoted from chuckwurt:My cheetah should be ready next month!!
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preeeetty
Quoted from chuckwurt:My cheetah should be ready next month!!
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Are those Bally flippers?
Quoted from cottonm4:Are those Bally flippers?
Not sure. If they are, I’ll fix it later.
Quoted from play_pinball:Looking good. The back rail shouldn’t go across the entire top of the playfield though. The posts behind the drops won’t fit. Can’t find a better pic off hand…
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Would it be any different to leave it this way and skip the posts?
It would probably increase the chance for the ball to get hung up behind the drops or something, especially since you’re using the tombstones? Reduce bounceback action from the pops? Heck if I know but I assume they made it that way for a reason.
Regardless you need to make room for the one-way gate too. Easy enough to cut it down and reinstall, right?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Would it be any different to leave it this way and skip the posts?
I suppose you could get a piece of rubber and bond it to the back rail for the rebound effect.
That's a hard spot to hit directly so the rail being there might be ok. I think those drops are intended to be hit by either grazing them from the left or right orbits or from the pops directly.
Quoted from cottonm4:I suppose you could get a piece of rubber and bond it to the back rail for the rebound effect.
Confirmed it will be cut before final assembly and posts added.
Got the base down on my F2K > Cheetah cab (technically cabs, plural. The head and body were scavenged separately). I chickened out on custom painting it pink even though I think it’d look good and better suit the rest of the Cheetah artwork, particularly the backglass. But I have one of the blue insert repro pfs, so let’s keep it stock.
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More pictures, please. And I want to know how you rate/rank it to your Big Game.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I need a source for the spinner switch arms that go through the playfield. I need 3 of them.
Pinball Resource
Get the one on top. You will need to make 2 bends ( a U-Bend ) to the straight end to match your spinner switches. Make your bends but do not cut any excess rod away.
They are cheap. But a couple of extras for just in case.
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