(Topic ID: 98819)

Classic Bally/Stern LED Adapter Kit - Vid's Review

By vid1900

9 years ago


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  • 334 posts
  • 64 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by PinFixin
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    #61 9 years ago

    I ordered some DIY kits and assembled a couple this afternoon. Here is what the classic Stern set looks like:

    IMG_20141101_195827.jpgIMG_20141101_195827.jpgIMG_20141101_195911.jpgIMG_20141101_195911.jpg

    1 year later
    #109 8 years ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    Here's the next question, and I'm willing to fast track this one to try and hit a thanksgiving release.....
    What about 6803 Bally machines? Similar problem and solution? If you guys can help me with the info I can get rolling on a layout.

    Any Stern game with speech will have issues using angled header pins. I have the first version so I'm not sure if the update is that much different. I'm not really sold on the idea that angler headers are needed. All of my games have plenty of room between the door and boards. Here are some pic with a straight header at J2:

    IMG_20151122_152607.jpgIMG_20151122_152607.jpg
    IMG_20151122_151845.jpgIMG_20151122_151845.jpg

    3 months later
    #125 8 years ago

    I have found that you can get flickering from three issues on the board. First is connectors. Rebuild suspect connectors particularly the red Bally IDC connectors. Second, if there is a group of lights flickering check the schematic and if they all (or most) trace back to the same decoder chip (U1-U4) replace it. Third, if there is one or a few random lights flickering replace the associated SCR. I have found that LEDs are a lot more sensitive to weak components than standard bulbs. I've seen SCRs test out fine but the LED still flickers. Replace the SCR and it is happy.

    #142 8 years ago
    Quoted from Sinbad:

    LEDs I'm using are basic frosted style warm whites.
    Here is a more accurate list of the data.

    IMAG2591.jpg

    Based on your spreadsheet, I would replace the J1 headers and rebuild the J1 connector. It is really hard to see cold solder joints on the .100 header pins. While I have the desoldering iron out I would also swap out U2.

    #144 8 years ago

    Might as well do both.

    #147 8 years ago
    Quoted from Sinbad:

    Well, I'm pretty sure that it isn't any of U1-U4.
    I reflowed the solder on each header pin and U1-4 on the lamp board, and it has corrected some, but not all of the issues. There could be more issues on the lamp board but am unsure at the moment. I'll proceed with repining the connectors and see from there. They need doing so may as well start there.

    Agree. With the chips it is usually all or nothing. What gets missed sometimes with the chips is there are flashing bulbs and the decoding is wrong. Most of my games are Classic Stern and their documentation isn't nearly as good as Bally. Sometimes I've needed to swap the board into a fully working Bally game to troubleshoot. The schematics are much better when trying to connect all of the dots.

    Also, I've noticed on Stern games with voice, the VSU-100 board comes into play. In fact, I can run LEDs on the playfield without the adapter kit and no flicker. The controlled lights in the backbox still flicker though. I guess the VSU-100 board (or added set of connectors) create enough resistance to keep the LEDs latched.

    #152 8 years ago
    Quoted from Sinbad:

    so before i go shopping for parts, can anyone verify that...
    2N5064 replaces 2N5060, and
    NTE5411 replaces MCR106-1
    ?

    2N5060/2N5064/NTE5400 and MCR106-1/ NTE5411 are the part numbers. 2N5064 just has a higher voltage rating.

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