(Topic ID: 98819)

Classic Bally/Stern LED Adapter Kit - Vid's Review

By vid1900

9 years ago


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    #52 9 years ago
    Quoted from acebathound:

    Looks like the Aux Lamp Drivers use primarily [perhaps exclusively judging from the schematic] MCR106-1 whereas the regular Lamp Driver Boards use a combination of MCR106-1 (multiple lamps) and 2N5060 (single lamps). Maybe the MCR106-1 doesn't experience the same issues with needing the additional load resistor to prevent flickering as the 2N5060's. Or probably the more likely scenario, if the MCR106's are there to drive multiple lamps, then even with LEDs they are then adding more load than a single LED would and preventing flicker because of that additional load. So we'll go with that for now

    Not to throw a monkey wrench into this, but I put 4 LEDs in one of my Sterns (no Aux lamp driver) and they behave like incandescents until a certain number of playfield lights are lit, like 20 or so, then they begin to flicker and get worse as more bulbs are lit.

    #54 9 years ago

    Yes sorry for the confusion, this is with the factory configuration.

    1 week later
    #55 9 years ago

    Ok, so I installed a set of adapters in the aforementioned Stern tonight and I am happy to say they work perfectly! So far I only have 4 Comet LEDs in it and I bought a pink Cointaker at Expo for a severely faded insert, but now I can replace more lamps in the game.

    Before the adapters, the Comets would behave normally when very few lamps were lit. As more lamps were lit they would start to flicker and get worse with each additional lamp lit. The Cointaker flickered badly right off the bat and the number of lit lamps made no difference. With the adapters, all LEDs are solid all the time. Yeah!

    The only problem I have with the kit is the lamp buss connector for J1 sits right on top of the mounting screw on the Stern LDA-100 board. If I hadn't noticed this before powering up it would have shorted and blown the fuse. Maybe this connector could be relocated in future designs.

    Hans, great job on these adapters! I will be ordering more to use in all of my classic Bally and Stern machines.

    #57 9 years ago

    Sounds good Hans. I will order some of those and use the kits I have now in my Ballys.

    #59 9 years ago

    Sounds like Hans has new boards coming which addresses this. I new these didn't fit 'all variations' of the LDA-100, but I thought the issue was not enough space between the headers, not a possible short to ground. My fault for not reading his description thoroughly since my version is on his 'does not fit' list and I certainly could have just thrown a Bally LDB in there instead. Anyway, I just removed the screw and left the one in the other corner that is not in danger of shorting and all is good.

    1 month later
    #69 9 years ago

    Yes thanks Hans! Got my Stern sets the other day as well as a bunch of Comet LEDs. I think it's about time to have some fun!

    1 year later
    #117 8 years ago

    Nice job Hans!

    1 month later
    #121 8 years ago

    Nice work Hans!

    1 week later
    #128 8 years ago
    Quoted from Superchicken:

    Third, if there is one or a few random lights flickering replace the associated SCR. I have found that LEDs are a lot more sensitive to weak components than standard bulbs. I've seen SCRs test out fine but the LED still flickers. Replace the SCR and it is happy.

    I seem to remember having this same problem and the same fix. Regular bulb worked fine, LED did not until SCR was replaced.

    #136 8 years ago
    Quoted from Sinbad:

    Why would a selection of globes not work with the boards in place, yet work when removed?

    Try this. With the boards installed, replace the non-working LEDs with regular bulbs. If they work, you'll need to replace the associated SCRs, then try the LEDs again.

    #149 8 years ago

    Replace the SCRs for the LEDs that are still strobing.

    #156 8 years ago

    The boards are tried and true. Unless the resistors are just flat out bad, the boards are going to work.

    In my experience, I've been able to get a few LEDs to work without the boards. As more LEDs on the playfield light, the ones that were working start to strobe.

    Replacing all bulbs with LEDs and going into lamp test made it very easy to see which SCRs needed to be replaced as there would be a couple LEDs strobing. New SCRs took care of the problem.

    2 weeks later
    #171 7 years ago
    Quoted from rcbrown316:

    the extra 50 bucks reduces the number of physical connections back down by half

    Not really a big deal when your flippers have a minimum of 6 connections and draw way more current.

    That said, sometimes you have to replace SCRs that worked fine with incandescents and then there's the cleaner look of not having boards hanging off every connector. I can see your point. As Vid said, it all depends how much money you want to fork out.

    3 months later
    #211 7 years ago

    Any plans for Game Plans Hans?

    3 months later
    #224 7 years ago

    Switching to SMTs sounds like a good plan Hans.

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