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(Topic ID: 98819)

Classic Bally/Stern LED Adapter Kit - Vid's Review

By vid1900

9 years ago


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  • 334 posts
  • 64 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by PinFixin
  • Topic is favorited by 143 Pinsiders

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    #174 8 years ago
     
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    Quoted from HHaase:

    Freebie offer!
    I have one set now, and two more sets in about a week, of prototypes for the -52 AUX lamp boards. This is the bigger board with dual output headers. Want a set free? You can have one! Just shoot me a PM.
    Here's the catch. They're prototypes, so I'll need some feedback on a few things. Functionality, clearance, and wiring harness length in particular. I 'THINK' they're going to fit and function, but I haven't confirmed it yet. That's why I'm sending them out free. You'll also have to assemble your own wiring harnes. I'll include some cut-down connectors, wire, and crimps .... but you'll have to figure out length and report back.
    -Hans

    What games had the -52 boards? I can't recall when they started being used at the moment.

    8 months later
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    #233 7 years ago
     
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    Interesting..
    Why didn't you use a resistor array, to help minimize parts? Just curious..

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    #235 7 years ago
     
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    Quoted from HHaase:

    To give more overhead in the wattage rating. Arrays would only be good up to 6.8v, as that's when you'd hit the 62.5mw rating on the arrays. Too close for comfort.
    Discreet resistors are good for at least 250mw in this size, which will be good to 13.7v with the 750ohm size I'm using in this run.
    I ordered them with the resistors already assembled to the boards as well. Having somebody else do the work via machine is a hell of a lot easier than doing them myself by hand. So it made took the extra parts count out of the equation in this case.
    -Hans

    Ah! Okay, that makes sense! Thanks!

    1 week later
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    #239 7 years ago
     
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    The lamp holders are horrid; high on resistance, especially when a socket starts to go.

    I'm in the process of making a PCB to put in there (in the Meteor thread..), if anyone's interested.

    8 months later
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    #257 6 years ago
     
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    Quoted from brianmcculloh:

    Is it a safe assumption that I'm just not getting any power from the controlled lamp braided wire in the back-box at all?

    Check that you're connecting it to the *correct* braided wire. i.e. an actual controlled lamp feed, and NOT a GI string feed, as the GI string one will (continue to) give you the strobing/flickering like that..

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    #259 6 years ago
     
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    Quoted from brianmcculloh:

    I have definitely been very careful to connect it to the correct braided wire that connects two of the controlled lamps, and not the GI braided wire that runs between all of the GI lamps. That much I can safely say

    Okay! Sorry, had to bring up stupid, because.. well, it was something I did myself.

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    #261 6 years ago
     
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    Quoted from brianmcculloh:

    Oh I definitely appreciate it, and yes I was worried I was doing that part wrong too. I realize it's kind of the most important part lol. Do you know if it has to be the braided wire connecting the controlled backbox lamps, or can it be the thicker non-striped solid color wire? Or doesn't it matter?

    Shouldn't matter, as the solid feed wire is connected to the braided wire. (Now, having said that, sometimes you can get a poor connection from the braided wire..)

    3 weeks later
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    #271 6 years ago
     
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    Quoted from PghPinballRescue:

    I'm still wondering if the transistors can be swapped out for different ones that don't require the load resistor.
    I don't know enough about circuit design to know what to swap them out with though.

    Are you meaning the SCRs, when you saw 'swapped out'?

    If so, then no.
    Reason why is because the MPU sends commands to the Light Board to activate a light - the SCR is sent a 'pulse' to activate from the MPU. The SCR then 'latches on', locking the light on until current drops. The MPU never sends a command to 'turn off a light'. Instead, the SCR stays latched until the 5.4v lamp feed drops to 0v (it's full-wave DC), and then the SCR turns off.

    So, if you dropped a real transistor in there, then you would get the strobing - and no way to stop it.

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    #273 6 years ago
     
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    Quoted from PghPinballRescue:

    So it sends a "turn on" command for a split second, then continually sends a "keep alive" command?

    It (the MPU) actually continuously sends 'turn on' commands, knowing that the 'turn on' command will only last a few cycles before the bulb normally will go out. Whether or not the lamp was already on, doesn't matter. When the light is meant to go out - the MPU just stops sending 'turn on' commands.

    Edit to add: If you changed your controlled light buss to a constant 5Vdc, with no AC waveform, then the lights would NEVER turn off - and eventually, all lamps would be on.

    2 years later
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    #320 4 years ago
     
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    Quoted from barakandl:

    I had one lot of on semi SCRs that wouldnt latch for crap with SCRs unless i really stiffened up the resistors to about 270R-330R.

    Hell, I have one of your new lamp driver boards, and I have a few SCRs on IT that just won't stay latched with LEDs. (Never complained because luckily they're in lights that are rarely lit.)
    But, yeah, I've seen variance (even with the Seigecraft (sp? adapters) on original boards.

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    #322 4 years ago
     
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    Quoted from barakandl:

    Add an extra 1k resistor across the offending lamp or do it at the LDB and it should fix.

    Will do!

    Quoted from barakandl:

    I can swap out the LDB if you want to.

    Appreciated, but no need. I wouldn't feel right for putting you up to all that loss for something I've been living with for .. hell a year? two?.. I've lived this long, i can be happy with a small fix.

    More I was just commenting on the apparent huge range of these suckers out there.

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