Avon, IN
I installed this but I'm still seeing most of the insert LEDs flicker and none of them completely turn off. Any ideas? I have a Flight 2000 and I have the latest version of this adapter kit with the alligator clip. Thanks!
(Topic ID: 98819)
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Quoted from HHaase:Honestly, I've been having a lot of issues with my wire processing machinery lately, first thing I'd check is that none of the crimps on the wire harness are bad. This is likely the source of your flicker issues.
I also did see a blurb on the Altek website regarding Stern machines with speech, but only found that a day or two and didn't have a chance to dig into it too much. It's on my list of things to do this week. May be related to the lights not turning off completely.
-Hans
Edit:
Hmmm, ok, Stern did do something odd with the speech machines, and routed the lamp bus through the speech board. Peculiar, and the schematics don't really show it well. I guess it all ran off some of the same address lines so why not just use the speech board as a pass-through.
Pins 9 and 10 on the speech board are ground wires.
Pins 9-10 are listed as 'spare' on the Bally lamp board schematics, not shown on the Stern.
Looking at photos of Stern lamp drivers I don't see any traces for those two pins.
So while Altek says to cut those two wires, I don't actually see any need unless somebody else can find one.
Thanks so much for responding so quickly! I'm definitely a novice when it comes to anything electrical but I'm slowly learning. So when you say to check if any wiring harness crimps are bad, how exactly should I go about doing that? I have a multimeter if that helps. On further inspection, there is actually no change in flicker when I have the alligator clip connected to the braided wire and when it's completely disconnected. Is it a safe assumption that I'm just not getting any power from the controlled lamp braided wire in the back-box at all?
Quoted from Coyote:Check that you're connecting it to the *correct* braided wire. i.e. an actual controlled lamp feed, and NOT a GI string feed, as the GI string one will (continue to) give you the strobing/flickering like that..
I have definitely been very careful to connect it to the correct braided wire that connects two of the controlled lamps, and not the GI braided wire that runs between all of the GI lamps. That much I can safely say 
Quoted from Coyote:Okay! Sorry, had to bring up stupid, because.. well, it was something I did myself.
Oh I definitely appreciate it, and yes I was worried I was doing that part wrong too. I realize it's kind of the most important part lol. Do you know if it has to be the braided wire connecting the controlled backbox lamps, or can it be the thicker non-striped solid color wire? Or doesn't it matter?
1 week later
Quoted from HHaase:A mutimeter is your best bet. Check continuity from the alligator clip to either side of any resistor on the boards.
You should get either 0 ohms or 750 ohms, depending on what side of the resistor you're on, same result for all three boards is what you're looking for.
-Hans
Alright using the multimeter I found the source of the issue. I checked every single pin of all 3 boards and they all give me 750 ohms as expected. However I'm not getting any continuity between the alligator clip and the ends of the wires. I even pulled them out of the plastic clips and checked the wires directly. Of all three of them, only one gives me intermittent continuity, and even then it takes a lot of finagling the wire. So it seems these gray wires are the issue. What's the best way for me to replace these? Should I contact Marco since that is where I bought the boards? Thanks for your help in solving this issue!
2 weeks later
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