(Topic ID: 98819)

Classic Bally/Stern LED Adapter Kit - Vid's Review


By vid1900

4 years ago



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  • 314 posts
  • 59 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 78 days ago by arolden
  • Topic is favorited by 116 Pinsiders

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    There are 314 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
    #301 1 year ago
    Quoted from mima:

    As I now know that this is currently not a option for Goldball I suppose I need to revert to the soldering of resistors on the lamps. However how do I workaround that the controlled lamps (for the most part) is mounted on two big light boards?

    You can bend the leads of the resistor and put them into the socket, alongside the LED bulb.

    Depending on the socket, the resistor might be on the side of the LED, or slightly above it.

    No soldering needed, and you can easily lower your resistor value should your MPU require it.

    s-l1000 (resized).jpg
    #302 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You can bend the leads of the resistor and put them into the socket, alongside the LED bulb.
    Depending on the socket, the resistor might be on the side of the LED, or slightly above it.
    No soldering needed, and you can easily lower your resistor value should your MPU require it.

    What is the best and quickest way to determine the value of the needed resistor.?

    #303 1 year ago
    Quoted from mima:

    What is the best and quickest way to determine the value of the needed resistor.?

    Generally people use 470 ohm.

    #304 1 year ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    When I run Ali software at 500khz every single feature lamp flicker/strobes.

    Interesting, I didn't expect that.
    The Display refresh Interrupt has precedence over the Zero Crossing Interrupt so could be affecting the timing of when the Zero Crossing Interrupt is serviced since the CPU is much more busier running at slower speed.

    Quoted from barakandl:

    I have a different LDB on the test rig right now and only flickers Q2 with Ali software...
    Also odd is the problem is only showing up on Ali software because when I change to Flight 2K without touching anything else all the LEDs behave. Switch back to Ali and Q2 flickers again.

    The lamp refresh code between Ali and Flight 2K is the same. The lamp test mode code is slightly different though - looks like Flight 2K has some extra delays.

    If you can be bothered, try swapping Q2 with another SCR on the LDB and see if the flickering follows the SCR incase it's a tolerance thing on that Q2 SCRs holding current.

    #305 1 year ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Interesting, I didn't expect that.
    The Display refresh Interrupt has precedence over the Zero Crossing Interrupt so could be affecting the timing of when the Zero Crossing Interrupt is serviced since the CPU is much more busier running at slower speed.

    The lamp refresh code between Ali and Flight 2K is the same. The lamp test mode code is slightly different though - looks like Flight 2K has some extra delays.
    If you can be bothered, try swapping Q2 with another SCR on the LDB and see if the flickering follows the SCR incase it's a tolerance thing on that Q2 SCRs holding current.

    The lamp flickers in game play mode too with just ali... odd.

    swapping the Q2 with another is a fix as lowering the load R value. Seems every SCR is not created equally. I have just a few from both On Semi and UTC brands not latching 680R in ali. Easiest and best fix might be to just use 560 or 470R even if it is overkill in most situations. Start getting close to the 1/8w rating of the sip networks in later games using the -54 transformer that run the feature lamps as much as 7v.

    Newest MPUs changed R21 to a 27K resistor + 10k trim pot wired up like a rheostat which allows the display interrupt to set to about 300 - 400hz. I might try twizzling that pot to see if it effects the random SCR LED flicker in Ali.

    #306 1 year ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    Seems every SCR is not created equally.

    Yes, that seems to be the case.
    .

    Quoted from barakandl:

    Easiest and best fix might be to just use 560 or 470R even if it is overkill in most situations...

    Newest MPUs changed R21 to a 27K resistor + 10k trim pot wired up like a rheostat which allows the display interrupt to set to about 300 - 400hz. I might try twizzling that pot to see if it effects the random SCR LED flicker in Ali.

    I only have LEDs (cheap generic 10mm) in one of my games. The LEDs have 470 ohm resistors internally across them and work fine in game mode but a few flicker in lamp test mode. I even tried putting 220 ohm resistors on some of these flickering LEDs but it didn't cure all of them. This game is a Bally with heavily modified code including modified display code so the CPU is rather "busy".
    I suspect if you adjust the display interrupt frequency on your new MPU board it will affect the LED flickering.

    I recently installed some of these Siegecraft anti-flicker LED boards (which uses 750 ohm resistors) into a Xenon and they worked flawlessly.

    2 weeks later
    #307 11 months ago

    Down to 4 pieces of the current run, which has the typo I've been having to re-sticker. Updated version should be available in a week or two.

    Assuming there's no more marking errors, or anything new comes along forcing a design change, I'm hoping there will be no further updates in future versions. It's quite a mature design at this point. After some initial flubs way back in the beginning, it's been a LONG time since anybody has come across a game with fitment issues.

    I'm hoping the absurdly busy summer will start giving me some room to breath in the near future here so I can start working on some packaging improvements and a version for Gold Ball.

    -Hans

    6 months later
    #308 4 months ago

    Wanted to order from comet but out of
    stock. Any idea when they might get some
    more. Thx.

    #309 4 months ago
    Quoted from lowbeau67:

    Wanted to order from comet but out of
    stock. Any idea when they might get some
    more. Thx.

    Tracking showed the box in Denver this morning, so if not Today, it’ll be Monday.

    4 weeks later
    #310 3 months ago
    Quoted from acebathound:

    One other DIY method that wasn't mentioned above is soldering SIP resistors soldered directly to the back of the board (Vid had posted a picture of this in another thread). You're out total cost of some SIP resistors & wire, so probably looking at $1.20-1.50 per header that way. Common pin on the SIPs get bent up or snipped higher than the board (so they aren't shorting to anything), then those pins are tied together with wire running between them & the wire then ties into the feature lamp bus. The other pins on the SIPs (individual resistors) get soldered to the 2.54mm header positions. It has the benefit that you're looking at & re-soldering practically every header pin on the board, which is usually needed anyway since there are almost always a few cracked/cold solder joints on those headers. I thought that was pretty clever, not sure Vid if you came up with that or someone else did.. but a great DIY method IMO.
    [quoted image]

    Just did this on my Paragon, and it works GREAT! Newark was selling the SIP networks for $0.12 each so I bought a bunch. I put mostly Comet warm white retro SMDs in, only color matching the green and red, and so far, it’s looking awesome. All in, it’s about $35 plus a couple hours of time.

    Not as slick or versatile as the Siegecraft solution, but I’m a DIY guy, whenever possible.
    Jeff

    1 month later
    #311 86 days ago

    I have to say, I love you guys. I can't tell you how appreciative I am. Why do I say this so openly? Because sales are strong and GROWING on these still, after 4 years, and I'm estimating 2,000 sets sold at this point. I've had a few hiccups here and there, but you all have been very patient with me, and I've done my best to keep making this product better with every iteration. Latest change is a bit of a packaging update to eliminate the plastic baggies, replaced with a cardboard divider. Same cost per kit but a lot faster to pack. Next change will probably be a sealer for the clamshell boxes I use on the auxiliary kits, they pop open too easy. But the design right now I think is pretty darn solid.

    Just boxing up another order today, and on a random thought I did some internet digging. I was able to find 4 other places now selling their own version of this adapter. But people keep buying mine in big numbers. That speaks a lot, and it's humbling.

    So I just wanted to get in here and thank you all for everything.

    -Hans

    #312 80 days ago

    Hi Hans

    I am interested in buying a couple of sets of these. Are they still available in kit form or only as complete sets?

    #313 79 days ago

    I don't advertise the 'builders kits' anymore, which was all the resistors installed but no connectors included.
    But right now I have plenty of boards on hand and can sell a few that way for you.
    Those are priced at $15 per 'set'

    -Hans

    #314 78 days ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    I don't advertise the 'builders kits' anymore, which was all the resistors installed but no connectors included.
    But right now I have plenty of boards on hand and can sell a few that way for you.
    Those are priced at $15 per 'set'
    -Hans

    Thanks Hans. Will send you a PM.

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    There are 314 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.

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