Classic Bally/Stern LED Adapter Kit - Vid's Review

(Topic ID: 98819)

Classic Bally/Stern LED Adapter Kit - Vid's Review


By vid1900

4 years ago



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  • 306 posts
  • 56 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 50 days ago by HHaase
  • Topic is favorited by 108 Pinsiders

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    #251 1 year ago

    Max;

    Mid-August most likely I'll have them again, in the middle of relocating, so between houses at the moment until we close on the new one.
    Though I am busting my butt to get a batch sent to Marco in the next week or so.

    Schmoo.... Just replied to your PM that I got yesterday.

    -Hans

    1 week later
    #252 1 year ago

    Shipment of 25 sets just shipped to Marco today, so should be available there soon.

    No more parts on hand right now, so won't be able to do more till I'm settled again in the new location in a few weeks,.

    -Hans

    1 week later
    #253 1 year ago

    Has anyone tried swapping to different transistors that don't require a certain resistive load to stay locked on?

    I'm probably missing the reason we can't just swap out the transistor.

    1 month later
    #254 12 months ago

    I installed this but I'm still seeing most of the insert LEDs flicker and none of them completely turn off. Any ideas? I have a Flight 2000 and I have the latest version of this adapter kit with the alligator clip. Thanks!

    #255 12 months ago

    Honestly, I've been having a lot of issues with my wire processing machinery lately, first thing I'd check is that none of the crimps on the wire harness are bad. This is likely the source of your flicker issues.

    I also did see a blurb on the Altek website regarding Stern machines with speech, but only found that a day or two and didn't have a chance to dig into it too much. It's on my list of things to do this week. May be related to the lights not turning off completely.

    -Hans

    Edit:

    Hmmm, ok, Stern did do something odd with the speech machines, and routed the lamp bus through the speech board. Peculiar, and the schematics don't really show it well. I guess it all ran off some of the same address lines so why not just use the speech board as a pass-through.

    Pins 9 and 10 on the speech board are ground wires.
    Pins 9-10 are listed as 'spare' on the Bally lamp board schematics, not shown on the Stern.
    Looking at photos of Stern lamp drivers I don't see any traces for those two pins.
    So while Altek says to cut those two wires, I don't actually see any need unless somebody else can find one.

    #256 12 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    Honestly, I've been having a lot of issues with my wire processing machinery lately, first thing I'd check is that none of the crimps on the wire harness are bad. This is likely the source of your flicker issues.
    I also did see a blurb on the Altek website regarding Stern machines with speech, but only found that a day or two and didn't have a chance to dig into it too much. It's on my list of things to do this week. May be related to the lights not turning off completely.
    -Hans
    Edit:
    Hmmm, ok, Stern did do something odd with the speech machines, and routed the lamp bus through the speech board. Peculiar, and the schematics don't really show it well. I guess it all ran off some of the same address lines so why not just use the speech board as a pass-through.
    Pins 9 and 10 on the speech board are ground wires.
    Pins 9-10 are listed as 'spare' on the Bally lamp board schematics, not shown on the Stern.
    Looking at photos of Stern lamp drivers I don't see any traces for those two pins.
    So while Altek says to cut those two wires, I don't actually see any need unless somebody else can find one.

    Thanks so much for responding so quickly! I'm definitely a novice when it comes to anything electrical but I'm slowly learning. So when you say to check if any wiring harness crimps are bad, how exactly should I go about doing that? I have a multimeter if that helps. On further inspection, there is actually no change in flicker when I have the alligator clip connected to the braided wire and when it's completely disconnected. Is it a safe assumption that I'm just not getting any power from the controlled lamp braided wire in the back-box at all?

    #257 12 months ago
    Quoted from brianmcculloh:

    Is it a safe assumption that I'm just not getting any power from the controlled lamp braided wire in the back-box at all?

    Check that you're connecting it to the *correct* braided wire. i.e. an actual controlled lamp feed, and NOT a GI string feed, as the GI string one will (continue to) give you the strobing/flickering like that..

    #258 12 months ago
    Quoted from Coyote:

    Check that you're connecting it to the *correct* braided wire. i.e. an actual controlled lamp feed, and NOT a GI string feed, as the GI string one will (continue to) give you the strobing/flickering like that..

    I have definitely been very careful to connect it to the correct braided wire that connects two of the controlled lamps, and not the GI braided wire that runs between all of the GI lamps. That much I can safely say

    #259 12 months ago
    Quoted from brianmcculloh:

    I have definitely been very careful to connect it to the correct braided wire that connects two of the controlled lamps, and not the GI braided wire that runs between all of the GI lamps. That much I can safely say

    Okay! Sorry, had to bring up stupid, because.. well, it was something I did myself.

    #260 12 months ago
    Quoted from Coyote:

    Okay! Sorry, had to bring up stupid, because.. well, it was something I did myself.

    Oh I definitely appreciate it, and yes I was worried I was doing that part wrong too. I realize it's kind of the most important part lol. Do you know if it has to be the braided wire connecting the controlled backbox lamps, or can it be the thicker non-striped solid color wire? Or doesn't it matter?

    #261 12 months ago
    Quoted from brianmcculloh:

    Oh I definitely appreciate it, and yes I was worried I was doing that part wrong too. I realize it's kind of the most important part lol. Do you know if it has to be the braided wire connecting the controlled backbox lamps, or can it be the thicker non-striped solid color wire? Or doesn't it matter?

    Shouldn't matter, as the solid feed wire is connected to the braided wire. (Now, having said that, sometimes you can get a poor connection from the braided wire..)

    #262 12 months ago

    A mutimeter is your best bet. Check continuity from the alligator clip to either side of any resistor on the boards.

    You should get either 0 ohms or 750 ohms, depending on what side of the resistor you're on, same result for all three boards is what you're looking for.

    -Hans

    #263 11 months ago

    By popular request, I've decided to start selling these as a bare-bones 'builders kits', in addition to fully assembled and packaged sets.

    The difference is, with the builders kit all you get is the PCB with resistors installed. No wiring, no connectors, no fancy box, noinstructions. If you're technically minded with a stocked parts box, these could save you a bunch.

    $5 for the -42 single aux board, $10 for the two-board -53 set, and $15 for the main lamp driver set.

    http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=65&controller=product&id_lang=1

    #264 11 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    A mutimeter is your best bet. Check continuity from the alligator clip to either side of any resistor on the boards.
    You should get either 0 ohms or 750 ohms, depending on what side of the resistor you're on, same result for all three boards is what you're looking for.
    -Hans

    Alright using the multimeter I found the source of the issue. I checked every single pin of all 3 boards and they all give me 750 ohms as expected. However I'm not getting any continuity between the alligator clip and the ends of the wires. I even pulled them out of the plastic clips and checked the wires directly. Of all three of them, only one gives me intermittent continuity, and even then it takes a lot of finagling the wire. So it seems these gray wires are the issue. What's the best way for me to replace these? Should I contact Marco since that is where I bought the boards? Thanks for your help in solving this issue!

    #265 11 months ago

    PM me your address and I'll get a new wire harness sent your way.

    -Hans

    #266 11 months ago

    You know, this is making me wonder if the problem all along was the actual wire.

    Either way, time to make a test rig to check the harnesses before shipping.

    -Hans

    #267 11 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    By popular request, I've decided to start selling these as a bare-bones 'builders kits', in addition to fully assembled and packaged sets.
    The difference is, with the builders kit all you get is the PCB with resistors installed. No wiring, no connectors, no fancy box, noinstructions. If you're technically minded with a stocked parts box, these could save you a bunch.
    $5 for the -42 single aux board, $10 for the two-board -53 set, and $15 for the main lamp driver set.
    http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=65&controller=product&id_lang=1

    Thank you!!!!

    I will be ordered multiple sets when the next machine comes through the shop.

    2 weeks later
    #268 11 months ago

    OK, I think I finally found the source of many issues you guys were having, just helped diagnose a problem with another Stern Meteor (surprise surprise).

    Turns out his backbox lamps only had 3.5v going into them. Connected into a playfield lamp with the proper 6v and the adapters kicked in just the way they should.

    I wonder how many other customer problems were the result of low voltage to the lamp bus.

    -Hans

    #269 11 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    OK, I think I finally found the source of many issues you guys were having, just helped diagnose a problem with another Stern Meteor (surprise surprise).
    Turns out his backbox lamps only had 3.5v going into them. Connected into a playfield lamp with the proper 6v and the adapters kicked in just the way they should.
    I wonder how many other customer problems were the result of low voltage to the lamp bus.
    -Hans

    I had this exact issue, with a STERN Galaxy. Good to know what the fix is, the next I am there to work on it.

    #270 11 months ago

    I'm still wondering if the transistors can be swapped out for different ones that don't require the load resistor.

    I don't know enough about circuit design to know what to swap them out with though.

    #271 11 months ago
    Quoted from SarverSystems:

    I'm still wondering if the transistors can be swapped out for different ones that don't require the load resistor.
    I don't know enough about circuit design to know what to swap them out with though.

    Are you meaning the SCRs, when you saw 'swapped out'?

    If so, then no.
    Reason why is because the MPU sends commands to the Light Board to activate a light - the SCR is sent a 'pulse' to activate from the MPU. The SCR then 'latches on', locking the light on until current drops. The MPU never sends a command to 'turn off a light'. Instead, the SCR stays latched until the 5.4v lamp feed drops to 0v (it's full-wave DC), and then the SCR turns off.

    So, if you dropped a real transistor in there, then you would get the strobing - and no way to stop it.

    #272 11 months ago
    Quoted from Coyote:

    Are you meaning the SCRs, when you saw 'swapped out'?
    If so, then no.
    Reason why is because the MPU sends commands to the Light Board to activate a light - the SCR is sent a 'pulse' to activate from the MPU. The SCR then 'latches on', locking the light on until current drops. The MPU never sends a command to 'turn off a light'. Instead, the SCR stays latched until the 5.4v lamp feed drops to 0v (it's full-wave DC), and then the SCR turns off.
    So, if you dropped a real transistor in there, then you would get the strobing - and no way to stop it.

    So it sends a "turn on" command for a split second, then continually sends a "keep alive" command?

    #273 11 months ago
    Quoted from SarverSystems:

    So it sends a "turn on" command for a split second, then continually sends a "keep alive" command?

    It (the MPU) actually continuously sends 'turn on' commands, knowing that the 'turn on' command will only last a few cycles before the bulb normally will go out. Whether or not the lamp was already on, doesn't matter. When the light is meant to go out - the MPU just stops sending 'turn on' commands.

    Edit to add: If you changed your controlled light buss to a constant 5Vdc, with no AC waveform, then the lights would NEVER turn off - and eventually, all lamps would be on.

    #274 11 months ago

    The new wire harness that hhaase sent me fixed the issue I was having, fwiw. (all but one LED on the playfield, that is, which still strobes - but it doesn't really bother me). Thanks again for sending me a replacement!

    1 month later
    #275 9 months ago

    Just about out of boards for current stock, will be ordering a new run in the next couple of weeks.
    Now is the time to make any requests for changes, or suggestions for improvements.

    Current plan is to add a voltage test point to each board, but otherwise not anticipating any significant changes.

    #276 9 months ago

    I would like to see it marked more clearly which board goes on which connector.

    J1 on the board that plugs into J1, etc...

    Also, something I was considering is to put a SMD LED for each output as well, then the boards would double as a test fixture.
    I don't think it would add a ton of cost to the boards, but I would pay a small price increase to have this functionality.

    Plus a "power" LED to show the power wire was connected properly.

    #277 9 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    Just about out of boards for current stock, will be ordering a new run in the next couple of weeks.
    Now is the time to make any requests for changes, or suggestions for improvements.
    Current plan is to add a voltage test point to each board, but otherwise not anticipating any significant changes.

    Personally I had a hard time with the molex connectors fitting 'well' on my lamp board set.. which have the 90deg header pins.

    On my Aux board kit.. the adaptor plugs that go into the Aux board itself were crazy tight. I fear breaking the PCB outright trying to get them on/off.

    On my light board adaptors, the 90deg headers don't hold the different molex plugs very well. The plastic plug can not seat all the way to the header's base because the connector hits the PCB before it seats fully to the header base. The orange translucent IDC plug I have fit better than the white IDC connectors on two of the other harnesses. The white ones just don't fit well at all. Dunno if mounting the header higher is possible, or using longer pins for better compatibility. The white IDC connectors I don't know the origin of.. if OEM or replaced at some point. (or if someone just installed them backwards to start with!!)

    I also didn't get the 5V harness running between the aux boards and light adaptors as advertised. My best fit was to run clockwise around the lamp driver.. So Top right, bottom right, bottom left... then up through the cable management at the hinge.. and to the alligator clip, clipped to the bus at the bottom corner of the backboard. I then soldered the other 5V harness directly to the same clip.. and fed the Aux board bottom, then top I believe.

    I also found the instruction for the Aux board 5V lead slightly confusing.. made sense once I knew what the answer was.. but wording confused me initially.

    #278 9 months ago

    Mr. Sarver:

    Clearer markings for connectors/locations/"top". Definitely can do those, good reminder.

    Power LED, trying to find an easy way to do that actually. But may not be feasible without a steady ground path, which would involve more wiring. Theoretically wouldn't be too hard on the AUX adapters, but will be a while until I need more of them. If I did a single LED tied to a specific output it would work, though would be a 'blinker'. If I can find a way to make it steady, I do like the idea, just not sure how yet.

    An SMT LED on each output is a really cool idea. From a design standpoint not too hard either. But best pricing for LED's would be about 4 cents each, maybe a bit less in bulk. Would also double the machine time on my pick and place. Would increase the cost to customers by $10-$15 per set. Maybe as a future 'deluxe' version, but I don't think it would be as successful for a regular version.

    Mr Flynn:

    The 90 connectors are long gone, that was a bad decision on my part, and I learned my lesson quite quickly with them. The current generation of boards is designed to get all the clearance problems worked out, while using a vertical connector of sufficient height, and I don't believe I've had any customers with issues using the current style connectors.

    The connectors for the AUX boards, I totally feel your pain. I regularly look for different connector options, but the .156 style headers are less and less common all the time. I haven't found any other style of connectors. Even the Molex ones I have been using are sometimes tricky to get.

    With the cable routing, are you saying the wiring needs to be longer? Which section? Getting the right AUX board wiring lengths has been difficult, very little feedback, and there's a LOT of variation.

    And, yes, an instruction re-write is due.

    #279 9 months ago

    Thanks for taking my ideas into consideration.

    1 week later
    #280 8 months ago

    Wasn't able to get an LED figured out in time unfortunately. Just had a good sized wholesale order come in and didn't have enough boards to fill it. So I had to get an order done. I did get the markings much clearer as to connector/orientation. There's also going to be a test point you can clip onto with a probe to check voltages if needed.

    Here's the layout image for the newest version, will have to run out the existing boards before I start shipping these direct. About 15 sets left of the current design.

    MB-07-021 (resized).JPG

    #281 8 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    Wasn't able to get an LED figured out in time unfortunately. Just had a good sized wholesale order come in and didn't have enough boards to fill it. So I had to get an order done. I did get the markings much clearer as to connector/orientation. There's also going to be a test point you can clip onto with a probe to check voltages if needed.
    Here's the layout image for the newest version, will have to run out the existing boards before I start shipping these direct. About 15 sets left of the current design.

    Love it already!

    #282 8 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    With the cable routing, are you saying the wiring needs to be longer? Which section? Getting the right AUX board wiring lengths has been difficult, very little feedback, and there's a LOT of variation.

    My game is folded up right now, otherwise I'd get some photos for you. When I setup the game for MAGfest this week I'll try to get a photo. If memory serves, it was the 5V leads with the AUX board that I had to tweak. The lamp driver harness I was able to feed through the backbox hinge area no problem to a GI wire at the bottom corner of the backboard and it worked well without impingment. But the AUX wire, was never going to make it over there well. Instead I soldered the AUX lead right to the aligator clip used for the lamp driver.

    I guess the AUX board can be in various locations... in my Flash Gordon it's right in the center of the backboard basically.

    #283 8 months ago

    Well, Merry Christmas To Me!

    I think I may have found a different style .156 header without the locking ramps. Have to review the datasheet and get some samples to confirm. But if it fits the way I hope it will this may be what I've been looking for.

    -Hans

    1 month later
    #284 7 months ago

    Only one unit left on-hand of the -020 revision boards for the main LED adapters. After that everybody will be getting the -21 revision, which adds the test points and has the clearer markings. In fact, the current run in-stock at Marco is already the -21 revision. These will all be getting done on my new pick and place machine too. I think I'll do a video of the process to show you guys how they're currently being built.

    I also have some samples of the new .156 PCB sockets on-hand too as of today. No more locking ramp, which makes them much easier to install and remove. Just waiting for a couple checks to come in and I'll be ordering a couple thousand of the 9pin and 10pin sizes. I use so stinking many of these headers, and the price is fantastic, so it's totally worth it.

    #285 7 months ago

    Well, crap. The -21 revision boards got the silkscreens wrong. I mis-marked J1 and J3, which also throws off which side is the 'top'.

    Basically, the board marked J1 goes on J3, and the board marked J3 goes on J1.
    And that also means the 'top' marking for those to is the bottom.

    -Hans

    #286 7 months ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    Well, crap. The -21 revision boards got the silkscreens wrong. I mis-marked J1 and J3, which also throws off which side is the 'top'.
    Basically, the board marked J1 goes on J3, and the board marked J3 goes on J1.
    And that also means the 'top' marking for those to is the bottom.
    -Hans

    If you're selling at a discount, I'll take a set or 2. Kits I assume? Or fully assembled?

    #287 7 months ago
    Quoted from SarverSystems:

    If you're selling at a discount, I'll take a set or 2. Kits I assume? Or fully assembled?

    +1

    #288 7 months ago

    How much discount are we talking?

    #289 7 months ago

    LOL no discount, sorry guys. I found an easy way to re-label. And thankfully only a very small number got shipped from Marco before this got caught.

    Though I still do offer the resistor boards, no connectors or wiring, for $15.

    Later Edit:......

    Oh, what the hell, let's balance the karma here.

    $5 off the main adapter set, till midnight on Feb 24th, 2018.
    http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1

    #290 7 months ago

    I just upvoted that post!

    In for 2! Ordering shortly.

    Ah, you discounted the assembled kits.

    I'm still going to order 2 assembly-required kits though.

    #291 7 months ago

    Got my kit yesterday, 5 minutes later game was on and working 100%. HIGHLY recommend these boards!!
    I'll have a video up on my SBM restore thread later today for those who need further confirmation.

    20180220_182159[1] (resized).jpg

    20180220_182037[1] (resized).jpg

    4 months later
    #292 75 days ago

    vid1900 What about #Goldball ?

    Quoted from vid1900:

    List of Bally games this should work on:
    Black Jack
    Black Pyramid
    BMX
    Centaur
    Centaur II
    Cybernaut
    Dolly Parton
    Eight Ball
    Eight Ball Deluxe
    Eight Ball Deluxe Ltd
    Elektra
    Embryon
    Evil Knievel
    Fathom
    Fireball II
    Fireball Classic
    Flash Gordon
    Freedom
    Frontier
    Future Spa
    Grand Slam
    Harlem Globe Trotters
    Hotdoggin
    Kiss
    Kings of Steel
    Lost World
    Mata Hari
    Medusa
    Mr. & Ms Pacman
    Mystic
    Night Rider
    Nitro Ground Shaker
    Paragon
    Playboy
    Power Play
    Rapid Fire
    Rolling Stone
    Silverball Mania
    Six Million Dollar Man
    Skate Ball
    Space Invaders
    Speakeasy 2 & 4 Player
    Spectrum
    Spy Hunter
    Star Trek
    Strikes and Spares
    Super Sonic
    Vector
    Viking
    Voltan
    X's and O's, Xenon
    Stern Games:
    Ali
    Big Game
    Catacomb
    Cheetah
    Cosmic Princess
    Dracula
    Dragonfist
    Flight 2000
    Freefall
    Galaxy
    Hot Hand
    Iron Maiden
    Lazer Lord
    Lectrnamo
    Lightning
    Magic
    Memory Lane
    Meteor
    Nine Ball
    Nugent
    Orbitor 1
    Pinball
    Quicksilver
    Seawitch
    Split Second
    Star Gazer
    Stars
    Stingray
    Trident
    Viper
    Wild Fyre
    Oddball games:
    Black Sheep Squadron
    New Fathom
    New Vector
    Sexy Girl and Gammatron

    #294 75 days ago

    Gold ball has a different style combo driver, unfortunately, and the adapters aren’t made to fit that machine. Not sure if there is enough demand to make a unique adapter set for that machine.

    Having a photo of the driver would be a start though. Preferably both in and out of the backbox

    #295 70 days ago

    Thanks, I did not see that at first.

    #296 70 days ago
    Quoted from HHaase:

    Gold ball has a different style combo driver, unfortunately, and the adapters aren’t made to fit that machine. Not sure if there is enough demand to make a unique adapter set for that machine.
    Having a photo of the driver would be a start though. Preferably both in and out of the backbox

    Ill set you up with whatever photos you need.
    /Mima

    #297 70 days ago

    As I now know that this is currently not a option for Goldball I suppose I need to revert to the soldering of resistors on the lamps. However how do I workaround that the controlled lamps (for the most part) is mounted on two big light boards?

    Suggestions are warmly welcome
    cheers
    /mima

    DSC_0108 (resized).JPG
    #298 70 days ago

    Interesting thing i noticed while testing MPU boards in my test rig.

    I use Hot Hand as the normal test software. Test rig has a LED compatible driver board in in and a LED test panel with loading resistors just like the Hans board does.

    With Hot Hand software all 60 lamps are working fine in test and game play mode. When I stuff Ali software into the MPU with the same LDB Q57 and Q14 flicker. I grab another MPU with Ali sofware and still the same two LEDs flicker. I grab a different LDB and put it in and a few different LEDs are flickering. I change the MPU software back to Hot Hand and now all sixty LEDs are working again. Also with Ali software the offending lamps start working properly if I change the load R value from 680 to 470. Feature lamp bus is a bang on 6.3vdc on the test rig.

    That tells me there is something going on with the software that effects whether are not the SCR may stay latched. Perhaps some kind of refresh duty cycle? MPU 200 clock speed???

    Any software guys have comment about the LDB refreshing between games? This might be the reason why the AUX boards usually do not need load resistors. I havent looked at anything with an oscilloscope yet.

    #299 70 days ago

    I haven't looked at MPU-200 code, but between MPU-100 and MPU-200 the rate which the lamps are refreshed should be the same (zero crossing frequency) - the difference will be at what point in the rising DC phase the refresh is occurring.
    Note Q57 and Q14 are both hanging off output 0000 of the lamp board 4514 decoders and these are the first addressed lamps to be refreshed (including Q29 and Q36) each zero crossing. And with the faster CPU clock on MPU-200 it probably slightly exacerbates the symptom by trying to switch the first lamps on too soon in the DC cycle when there's probably just not enough load current to latch those SCRs.

    What happens in lamp test mode if you configure the CPU clock speed to 500kHz when running the Ali code?

    #300 70 days ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    I haven't looked at MPU-200 code, but between MPU-100 and MPU-200 the rate which the lamps are refreshed should be the same (zero crossing frequency) - the difference will be at what point in the rising DC phase the refresh is occurring.
    Note Q57 and Q14 are both hanging off output 0000 of the lamp board 4514 decoders and these are the first addressed lamps to be refreshed (including Q29 and Q36) each zero crossing. And with the faster CPU clock on MPU-200 it probably slightly exacerbates the symptom by trying to switch the first lamps on too soon in the DC cycle when there's probably just not enough load current to latch those SCRs.
    What happens in lamp test mode if you configure the CPU clock speed to 500kHz when running the Ali code?

    When I run Ali software at 500khz every single feature lamp flicker/strobes.

    I have a different LDB on the test rig right now and only flickers Q2 with Ali software. The 0000 decoder position might have been a fluke, but interesting thought.

    Also odd is the problem is only showing up on Ali software because when I change to Flight 2K without touching anything else all the LEDs behave. Switch back to Ali and Q2 flickers again.

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    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 99.99
    Cabinet - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 69.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Hookedonpinball.com
    $ 22.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 34.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 36.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 42.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 9.95
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 15.75
    Cabinet Parts
    Tilted Pinball
    $ 8.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Parts and Equip
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