Quoted from HHaase:I just know there will be somebody who leaves it out and then blames me a damaged board.
I hear ya.
You'd probably have to install it before it ships.
Quoted from HHaase:I just know there will be somebody who leaves it out and then blames me a damaged board.
I hear ya.
You'd probably have to install it before it ships.
Quoted from HHaase:That's one thing I'm considering. I'm also looking at how close I can get those two connector headers. For a lot of us fishpaper would be perfect, but I just know there will be somebody who leaves it out and then blames me a damaged board.
-Hans
Why not just instruct the user to put a strip of insulation tape on the back of the adapter? That'd do the trick.
rd
Hans at Siegecraft is a solid dude! He helped me get this board on the quickness, and EBD is on its way back to the route!
Thanks again!
As the boards were needed for my impending [quick] shipment of LEDS - big props to Cointaker for their help in getting my order to me so fast, too!
It's on the list, right after the aux board adapters for the -17/-35's. I just can't promise a timeframe just yet
-Hans
Found a solution to the issues with the aux board adapters, I hope. I'm going to move away from the SIP resistors and use surface mount instead. This will very nicely clear up a pair of problems with the aux boards that have been my main hurdles.
First is making it easier to substitute components between the various different adapter board locations. I won't have to use some funky pinout location setup for various SIP resistor sizes. I can put pads for each potential resistor location and just place the parts as needed.
Second is having thru-hole components on the backside that risk grounding against the lamp driver SCR's. SMT resistors will only have traces on the top side in that area, so the risk is eliminated.
Some additional benefits are standard fare for surface mount parts. I can stock just a single resistor size for all versions of the aux boards, instead of 3-4 sizes of SIP's. SMD resistors are much less expensive too. Overall this makes a huge difference in inventory complexity and cost. Then there's the reduction in the trace complexity, which lets me shrink the PCB down a lot too.
So time to get the 2nd set of prototypes ordered up.
Also decided to stick with .156 headers on the wiring harness, same as the main lamp driver adapters, instead of the .100's. Again mainly for parts commonality and inventory cost reduction reasons.
Been a busy month, finally some free time, processing the order for the next batch for AUX adapters tomorrow morning.
The dimensions on this version are going to work out much better and clear up all the issues with the previous version.
So I'll call this a limited edition pre-production batch instead of prototype, and will put them up for sale as long as there are no assembly issues.
Only difference between this small run and the production boards are these won't have the green solder mask on them.
Aux pre-production boards are here, parts will be here tomorrow, then we start assembling. These are a very limited run, prior to the main production run which is still a month or two out.
I've also received the message loud and clear. Clear the docket, time to start my next project.
6803 LED adapter development has started.
-Hans
Pre-production boards are here for the AUX lamp drivers. I'll be making a couple tweaks on the production version, but nothing signifcant. Just shrinking one side of the PCB for a bit more clearance between the PCB's on the -52 version aux driver. The board house had to extend the vertical dimension by a bit to qualify for the prototyping deal, which gives me a bit more room for silkscreening.
The only real problem I came across was that I did the pads for 1206 sized resistors, and I ordered 0805's instead, so they're a bit small for the pads. They'll work for this batch, but production boards will be using the correct size resistors.
Here's what one looks like fitted to a -43 board, and another photo of both the -43 and -52 sets.
If anybody wants from this batch, I am willing to sell them (wiring harnesses will be included). $10 for the -43 sets, and $20 for the -52 sets. I have parts on hand for 3 of the -52's and 2 of the -43's. Just shoot me a PM if interested.
Full production boards I don't have pricing for yet, but they will of course have the full green soldermask and silkscreening.
MB-09_photo_3_(resized).JPGMB-09_photo_2_(resized).JPGMB-09_photo_1_(resized).JPG
Order went in today for the full production version PCB's, 300 boards, enough for 100 of each set.
Should be here in 2-3 weeks. I just need to finalize the packaging and make instruction sheets for them.
Pricing on the -52 sets will be $30 retail, and for the -43 will be $17.50
Wholesale pricing is also available.
If anybody wants the pre-production boards, they're still available.
Wholesale Pricing Pre-Sale on the AUX board adapters.
PCB's area already on the way here. I should be shipping within two weeks on the AUX versions of the LED adapters.
Before giving a full announcement in its own thread, I'm going to offer up a pre-sale on these, at wholesale prices.
-43 adapters for $12.50, instead of $17.50
-52 adapters for $21.50 instead of $30.00
Sale price lasts until they start shipping. Once the first one goes out the door ... price goes to regular retail
Take advantage while you can ... this price is only going to be around for a week or two.
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=63&controller=product&id_lang=1
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=62&controller=product&id_lang=1
Trying a new board supplier, in order to reduce cost, and I think the surface mount is going to work out very well for these.
Game Plan may happen sooner than I expected. I want to fill out the rest of the Bally lineup first then Game Plan, then Zaccaria.
Which reminds me .... just ordered the prototype run for 6803's this morning as well. Just about to do a separate announcement post for all these things.
-Hans
Quick question on using the Altek board. If I'm running all super bright led's, do I need the aux board as well? This will be for a Centaur.
Try the LEDs 1st and see. My Bally KISS machine has an aux lamp board and I use LEDs in it w/no adapter and it works fine.I read somewhere on this thread some games will need them and some don't.
Quoted from pinkid:Try the LEDs 1st and see. My Bally KISS machine has an aux lamp board and I use LEDs in it w/no adapter and it works fine.I read somewhere on this thread some games will need them and some don't.
So do you have the Altek for the main board or are you still running the factory one?
Just realized I'm running low on PCB's again for the main lamp driver style adapters, looks like I'll be needing to do 4th run of them soon.
Wow, 4 runs now, that's just crazy. Perfect time to put in requests for things you think need to be updated.
I'm considering changing over to surface mount resistors like I've been using on the AUX adapter sets.
This would theoretically reduce labor time, simplify logistics, and reduce the size a bit more too.
Plus the SMT resistors I've been using are 1/4w instead of 1/8w like the SIP's are, so I can reduce the resistance value a bit more and that should improve the occasional SCR that won't latch with 1k resistors. I've been using 750 ohm on the aux boards.
-Hans
Making another call for Beta Testers, if anybody is interested.
Need 4 testers for 6803 style adapters, AUX adapters, and one or two for the classic style main adapters.
6803 and AUX adapters, have some more in-depth technical questions I'd like to dig into.
Or, if you're an electrical whiz and already have an AUX set, I've got a couple oddball questions that may help me tremendously.
Main adapter style is just to test some potential new connectors, would like somebody that has both Stern and Bally machines.
E-mail to [email protected] please. Otherwise I have too many places to check.
-Hans
Vid, if you could answer a big question I have on the AUX boards, it'd be awesome. Could you shoot me an e-mail ([email protected]), as it's something that could either be a fantastic change, or could fry some stuff, so I'd rather not say it in the open here in case some random guy 3 years from now tries it out of context.
-Hans
Quoted from HHaase:Need 4 testers for 6803 style adapters
PM sent.
Oops. Noticed no PMs. Emailed you.
I am really familiar with the aux lamp board if you need help with something. It works with the same idea as the first lamp board. Just different decoding chips and latches with lamp strobe 2 instead of 1.
Updated version of the base model bally/stern adapters has been ordered, about 2 weeks till delivery. With holiday sales time about to begin I hope they're here in time! Only 13 sets left from the previous run.
-Hans
Let me present the 4th run of the MA-07 LED adapters, new part number MA-07-020. I have two sets left of the previous version, and will be shipping those out before shipping the new ones. With the SMT resistors, I can assemble as a single PCB and ship without breaking them apart. Will make things a bit easier for me to assemble and package. Also marks 600 complete sets sold since I started doing these.
Trying a different style bottom connector on 10 adapter sets. If they work out well I'll switch completely, if not I'll keep with the Molex connectors I had been using, which do work fine .... just a pain to assemble and manage the inventory since I need so many of them per set. The new ones are 1 connector per adapter board.
-Hans
Quoted from Coyote:Interesting..
Why didn't you use a resistor array, to help minimize parts? Just curious..
To give more overhead in the wattage rating. Arrays would only be good up to 6.8v, as that's when you'd hit the 62.5mw rating on the arrays. Too close for comfort.
Discreet resistors are good for at least 250mw in this size, which will be good to 13.7v with the 750ohm size I'm using in this run.
I ordered them with the resistors already assembled to the boards as well. Having somebody else do the work via machine is a hell of a lot easier than doing them myself by hand. So it made took the extra parts count out of the equation in this case.
-Hans
Quoted from HHaase:To give more overhead in the wattage rating. Arrays would only be good up to 6.8v, as that's when you'd hit the 62.5mw rating on the arrays. Too close for comfort.
Discreet resistors are good for at least 250mw in this size, which will be good to 13.7v with the 750ohm size I'm using in this run.
I ordered them with the resistors already assembled to the boards as well. Having somebody else do the work via machine is a hell of a lot easier than doing them myself by hand. So it made took the extra parts count out of the equation in this case.
-Hans
Ah! Okay, that makes sense! Thanks!
Every time I think I have have a chance to finish them up and get samples sent out .... I get more big orders.
I really want to get these samples out too but I just haven't had a chance. This past two months has been kicking my ass.
-Hans
Have had a few reports now over the past year of guys having issues with Stern Meteor machines, and the 'Rocket' lamps. Working with a customer now to try and resolve it but curious if anybody else here has come across the issue, and if they had a resolution I can suggest.
-Hans
The lamp holders are horrid; high on resistance, especially when a socket starts to go.
I'm in the process of making a PCB to put in there (in the Meteor thread..), if anyone's interested.
Also working on a repackaged combo-pack with the main set plus the aux set, combined into one package/part number. Pinball Life will be getting those first. Shipping them out to those guys in a week or so. Just need to finish up a complete wiring harness design and instructions. After a few months I'll probably phase out selling the aux boards independantly, but I still want to give people a chance to play catch-up if they need those sets.
Unfortunately, I can't drop the MSRP at all when I do the combo. Finances are just too tight right now.
-Hans
I just converted my elektra into led by following changes with resistances.
It works fine, just two leds that kept flashing, I have to lower the resistance value by 40 ohms to stabilize.
Probably the thyristor that no longer works well, I will change this as soon as I received these components, meanwhile, I leave the resistances.
Thank you for this article mister vid1900
Suddenly having people report issues with LED's that are not shutting off, just staying dimly lit, when the adapters are installed. I haven't made any changes to the design in months, when I started shipping the surface mount version with the 750ohm instead of 1,000ohm resistors.
Not sure what's going on here but trying to narrow it down. I know there were issues for a short time with bad crimped connectors. I do wonder if maybe there's a major supplier who recently redesigned their LED's or something?
Anybody come across this issue?
-Hans
Anyone having this problem should share:
Which lamp(s) are having the problem (playfield, backbox, location)
What brand LED (color, brand, when purchased)
Pic of the driver board (are the stock parts driving these lamps, or replacement parts?)
If you move the LED, does the problem follow?
Just installed the new version. Saw zero improvement. Still have 20+ lamps flickering on Flash Gordon.
Quoted from GVONM:Just installed the new version. Saw zero improvement. Still have 20+ lamps flickering on Flash Gordon.
Are you sure you grabbed power from the right buss?
Quoted from GVONM:Just installed the new version. Saw zero improvement. Still have 20+ lamps flickering on Flash Gordon.
Where did you purchase from? Maybe older stock. Like Hans had stated, earlier runs of the new board had crimping issues on the power cable and the boards weren't working correctly. I had the parts and the crimper and this fixed the problem for me.
If it's about 20 lamps, then yeah, I'd be looking at probably a bad crimp somewhere. Easiest way to check is while they're installed, and check for resistance between the alligator clip any resistor on the very last adapter board in the string. Should get either very close to 0 ohms, or 750 ohms, depending on which side of the resistor you're on.
-Hans
I noticed these are showing "no longer in stock" ... will these be coming back as more are produced? Thanks!
Quoted from vid1900:Anyone having this problem should share:
Which lamp(s) are having the problem (playfield, backbox, location)
What brand LED (color, brand, when purchased)
Pic of the driver board (are the stock parts driving these lamps, or replacement parts?)
If you move the LED, does the problem follow?
When I installed this in my Hottdoggin', there were about 11 lamps that flickered. I added a resistor to each of these and the flickering stopped. They were all on the playfield and there was no discernible pattern to which lamps would flicker. They were cointaker superbrights. Some were a couple of years old and some were brand new.
Once I got the flickering solved, I noticed that all the lamps never fully turn off, but always glow. This is true of every feature lamp in the backbox and playfield. This is the most inconvenient problem, because it has forced me to bend the lamps way back so as to not illuminate the inserts when they are supposed to be off.
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