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(Topic ID: 242173)

Classic Bally / Stern Coin Doors - Step by Step Guide to Restoration


By TractorDoc

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 118 posts
  • 30 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 114 Pinsiders

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There are 118 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 19 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

This poster is not the one who asked about a hole in the door. It was a different user who has not posted a pic of the door yet.

My bad. I missed this post.

This is my coin door. You can see the drill hole on the lower right side. It’s bent slightly as well. To JB Weld or plug weld, that is the question.

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#102 19 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

My bad. I missed this post.
This is my coin door. You can see the drill hole on the lower right side. It’s bent slightly as well. To JB Weld or plug weld, that is the question. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have a door with a hole in nearly the same place. My fix will be to cut
a small piece of thin piece of metal that I have not sourced yet, either steel or aluminum, cut to a size that will sort of hide the immediate area, and bond it on with either JB Weld or PC-11. And then cut a small piece to plug the hole, lay on some Bondo, sand and paint.

Alternate. Bond a penny or other coin followed by slapping on some Bondo and paint.

Oh yeah, first hammer to hole to flush. And a tube of spot filler will probably work just as well as Bondo.

#103 19 days ago

Another option. Not ideal, but not terrible. You could paint it when you repaint the door. Just throwing it out there.

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#104 18 days ago

What's the proper technique for hammering the hole flat before filling?

#105 18 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

What's the proper technique for hammering the hole flat before filling?

It is nice if you have a heavy metal anvil. Lay the affected area on the anvil and start tapping it flat with a hammer, possibly using a piece of wood as a tool for the hammer to hit.

If no anvil, get a brick or even a table that you can use as an anvil substitute.

The door is cheap metal. It will flatten easily.

#106 14 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I will be home in a couple of days. I’ll take pics of what I use to strip a coin door down to bare metal with about 20 minutes worth of work.

Curious as to your technique for stripping door down

#107 14 days ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Curious as to your technique for stripping door down

Sorry. Forgot all about that. Tomorrow I will post some pics.

#108 14 days ago

what a great post , thank you so much!

#109 14 days ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

Curious as to your technique for stripping door down

To strip the paint from a coin door you need a 4.5" grinder (mine is Harbor Freight) and one of those funky looking grinder wheels. You can get the grinder wheels at HF or Walmart.

Be careful. It will take the hide off of your hand.

You can only use this wheel on the outside of the door and in select places in side the door. For the hard to reach places you will need your Dremel Tool. Soaking in a tub of Evaporust will also help.

Since this is hammertone paint you will be using, the exposed surface on the door should give you a real nice finish.

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#110 10 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

After successfully derusting several sets of original Stern legs, I'd bet you could lay that coindoor and frame in an Evaporust bath and it'll be rust free in about 12 hours. Since your Stern decal is already gone, no harm in trying and you could avoid a full repaint.

Anything else I need to do before pouring the evaporust?

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#111 10 days ago

Nope. Go ahead and dump 'er in.

Just remember, Evapo-Rust is temperature sensitive. Best results are obtained when the temperature is 65 degrees and up. The warmer it is, the faster it works. That when I love those 80 to 90 degree summer days. I can derust a set of pinball legs in 2 hours with the Evapo-Rust on days like that.

Agitate the solution every few hours too.

#112 10 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Nope. Go ahead and dump 'er in.
Just remember, Evapo-Rust is temperature sensitive. Best results are obtained when the temperature is 65 degrees and up. The warmer it is, the faster it works. That when I love those 80 to 90 degree summer days. I can derust a set of pinball legs in 2 hours with the Evapo-Rust on days like that.
Agitate the solution every few hours too.

Awesome, thanks

#113 10 days ago

Evapo-rust is amazing - here's a Before and After. This is just after sitting in it overnight, no polishing had been done yet.

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#114 10 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Evapo-rust is amazing - here's a Before and After. This is just after sitting in it overnight, no polishing had been done yet.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You do realize that this coin door is stainless steel, correct?

But it did clean up nice.

#115 10 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You do realize that this coin door is stainless steel, correct?
But it did clean up nice.

Yes, indeed. I basically put all of the coin door parts in a plastic wardrobe bin with Evaporust and then tumbled the smaller bits and polished before reassembly. Even tho the skin is ss, I was still amazed at how clean it got without having to lift a finger. The other parts did almost as well in the Evaporust with a little bit of rubbing here and there. The coin return plunger spent a few days in the tumbler after this picture, tho.

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#116 9 days ago

I love this thread so I'll have to post some pics from my Centaur coin door restoration...

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#118 9 days ago

Fixing 2 holes in a coin door.
================================

I needed some small squares of sheet metal. And I remembered I had an empty paint thinner can. I cut 2 small patch squares.

Metal cans make good patch material. It is thin. And if you have an empty can, it is cheap. I was trying to work with a sardine can but it was too warpy. An empty can of corn or green beans would probably work just as good as a paint thinner can. You get the idea.

Other tools used:

Tin snips to cut the can and make patches.

Some small pieces of wood to make clamping plates for what is coming next.

Some clamps.

Some packing tape to wrap around the wood pieces.

Some butter ( axle grease works, too ) to help keep the gorilla glue from bonding the wood pieces to the repair area.

And Gorilla Glue. The brown stuff. It will bond anything to anything. It is good stuff !

2 pieces of masking tape to highlight the 2 holes I am repairing.

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You can barely see the clamps in this pic, but my 2 squares of salvaged thinner can are now clamped to the door waiting for the Gorilla Glue to set up. Gorilla Glue swells as it sets up so anything that can be pushed away by the glue has to be clamped.

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Here are the 2 squares of repair metal bonded into position.

I advise caution: Forget to use the butter or any other greasy substance and you will be SORRY.

After bonding, I had to use the Dremel Tool to grind and sand the excess Gorilla Glue from the work area.

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On the front side of. the door, I had to use a deck screw to dig out the left over glue. The holes need to be clean for the Bondo.

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Then slop on a little Bondo.

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Then sand off the excess Bondo

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And slop on some hammertone paint.

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The above action repairs the holes. They are complete.

I'm saying I am going to slop on some paint. It is slop work because I am not finished with the door. This is just show how repairing holes is done.
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Somebody tried to pry this door open. It was not much of a pry job and I did not see it until I was patching the holes. But the door is bent and twisted. I'll need to address this before I can proceed. I would like to have access to an arbor press but I don't, so I will have to straighten this door with a hammer, some wood blocks and an anvil.

The masking tape is used so the bend in the door will photograph better. The door does not look all that bad; I bought it in a box of parts and the bend is not that noticeable. If it had been on a pin I sure would have noticed.

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Once I get the door straightened I'll apply a skim coat of spot filler around the patches, sand them smooth and them paint with Hammertone. Because I used thin metal from a paint can, you will never be able to see the repair when I am done. But it will be a little while before I get this door finished. I will need warm weather for painting the Hammertone.

Anyway, I hope my posting this might help some else figure out how to repair a hole in a coin door.

You can bond a nickel or dime or penny or quarter behind the hole and slop on some Bondo and get the same result. You don't have to make a sheet metal patch. It all depends on how far you want to take it. However, you want to make sure you are not bonding coin in a place that will interfere with installing there coin door lock.

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There are 118 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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