Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Cheetah
Stern Electronics, 1980
Fathom
Bally, 1981
Galaxy
Stern Electronics, 1980
Magic
Stern Electronics, 1979
Medusa
Bally, 1981Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:This poster is not the one who asked about a hole in the door. It was a different user who has not posted a pic of the door yet.
My bad. I missed this post.
This is my coin door. You can see the drill hole on the lower right side. It’s bent slightly as well. To JB Weld or plug weld, that is the question.
EDA6AE58-7F6F-4D7A-845A-6624B79567EA (resized).jpeg0E670C77-4010-474B-A1CE-F34A03F813EF (resized).jpeg57E91543-78EB-493F-828D-A2776268E3CD (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:My bad. I missed this post.
This is my coin door. You can see the drill hole on the lower right side. It’s bent slightly as well. To JB Weld or plug weld, that is the question. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I have a door with a hole in nearly the same place. My fix will be to cut
a small piece of thin piece of metal that I have not sourced yet, either steel or aluminum, cut to a size that will sort of hide the immediate area, and bond it on with either JB Weld or PC-11. And then cut a small piece to plug the hole, lay on some Bondo, sand and paint.
Alternate. Bond a penny or other coin followed by slapping on some Bondo and paint.
Oh yeah, first hammer to hole to flush. And a tube of spot filler will probably work just as well as Bondo.
Another option. Not ideal, but not terrible. You could paint it when you repaint the door. Just throwing it out there.
FA8DE028-83F0-40AE-AC0C-33376079EBC2 (resized).jpegA2EBBD93-3DD8-4E8F-9B77-344FD6AF78B4 (resized).jpeg6C2926EF-9B4B-44E8-8A5D-519A40E84D24 (resized).jpegAC2E2779-76D0-48F9-9CA7-429926CDFA71 (resized).jpegQuoted from HoakyPoaky:What's the proper technique for hammering the hole flat before filling?
It is nice if you have a heavy metal anvil. Lay the affected area on the anvil and start tapping it flat with a hammer, possibly using a piece of wood as a tool for the hammer to hit.
If no anvil, get a brick or even a table that you can use as an anvil substitute.
The door is cheap metal. It will flatten easily.
Quoted from cottonm4:I will be home in a couple of days. I’ll take pics of what I use to strip a coin door down to bare metal with about 20 minutes worth of work.
Curious as to your technique for stripping door down
Quoted from Madmax541:Curious as to your technique for stripping door down
Sorry. Forgot all about that. Tomorrow I will post some pics.
Quoted from Madmax541:Curious as to your technique for stripping door down
To strip the paint from a coin door you need a 4.5" grinder (mine is Harbor Freight) and one of those funky looking grinder wheels. You can get the grinder wheels at HF or Walmart.
Be careful. It will take the hide off of your hand.
You can only use this wheel on the outside of the door and in select places in side the door. For the hard to reach places you will need your Dremel Tool. Soaking in a tub of Evaporust will also help.
Since this is hammertone paint you will be using, the exposed surface on the door should give you a real nice finish.
IMG_4866 (resized).JPGIMG_4867 (resized).JPGIMG_4868 (resized).JPGQuoted from RC_like_the_cola:After successfully derusting several sets of original Stern legs, I'd bet you could lay that coindoor and frame in an Evaporust bath and it'll be rust free in about 12 hours. Since your Stern decal is already gone, no harm in trying and you could avoid a full repaint.
Anything else I need to do before pouring the evaporust?
A3D4FC3F-4107-4CF5-857A-E44474223E5E (resized).jpegNope. Go ahead and dump 'er in.
Just remember, Evapo-Rust is temperature sensitive. Best results are obtained when the temperature is 65 degrees and up. The warmer it is, the faster it works. That when I love those 80 to 90 degree summer days. I can derust a set of pinball legs in 2 hours with the Evapo-Rust on days like that.
Agitate the solution every few hours too.
Quoted from KenLayton:Nope. Go ahead and dump 'er in.
Just remember, Evapo-Rust is temperature sensitive. Best results are obtained when the temperature is 65 degrees and up. The warmer it is, the faster it works. That when I love those 80 to 90 degree summer days. I can derust a set of pinball legs in 2 hours with the Evapo-Rust on days like that.
Agitate the solution every few hours too.
Awesome, thanks
Quoted from Mathazar:Evapo-rust is amazing - here's a Before and After. This is just after sitting in it overnight, no polishing had been done yet.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You do realize that this coin door is stainless steel, correct?
But it did clean up nice.
Quoted from cottonm4:You do realize that this coin door is stainless steel, correct?
But it did clean up nice.
Yes, indeed. I basically put all of the coin door parts in a plastic wardrobe bin with Evaporust and then tumbled the smaller bits and polished before reassembly. Even tho the skin is ss, I was still amazed at how clean it got without having to lift a finger. The other parts did almost as well in the Evaporust with a little bit of rubbing here and there. The coin return plunger spent a few days in the tumbler after this picture, tho.
IMG_7403 (resized).jpgIMG_7404 (resized).jpgI love this thread so I'll have to post some pics from my Centaur coin door restoration...
87151698_10218955399450147_8667665812066140160_n (resized).jpg87280047_10218955398650127_8110480632468996096_n (resized).jpg87315863_10218955398330119_7356469797619499008_n (resized).jpg87329429_10218955399050137_105526148166844416_n (resized).jpg87373737_10218955400090163_3478081129234300928_n (resized).jpglast one....finished https://www.facebook.com/mark.rogan/videos/10221012559117853
Fixing 2 holes in a coin door.
================================
I needed some small squares of sheet metal. And I remembered I had an empty paint thinner can. I cut 2 small patch squares.
Metal cans make good patch material. It is thin. And if you have an empty can, it is cheap. I was trying to work with a sardine can but it was too warpy. An empty can of corn or green beans would probably work just as good as a paint thinner can. You get the idea.
Other tools used:
Tin snips to cut the can and make patches.
Some small pieces of wood to make clamping plates for what is coming next.
Some clamps.
Some packing tape to wrap around the wood pieces.
Some butter ( axle grease works, too ) to help keep the gorilla glue from bonding the wood pieces to the repair area.
And Gorilla Glue. The brown stuff. It will bond anything to anything. It is good stuff !
2 pieces of masking tape to highlight the 2 holes I am repairing.
You can barely see the clamps in this pic, but my 2 squares of salvaged thinner can are now clamped to the door waiting for the Gorilla Glue to set up. Gorilla Glue swells as it sets up so anything that can be pushed away by the glue has to be clamped.
Here are the 2 squares of repair metal bonded into position.
I advise caution: Forget to use the butter or any other greasy substance and you will be SORRY.
After bonding, I had to use the Dremel Tool to grind and sand the excess Gorilla Glue from the work area.
On the front side of. the door, I had to use a deck screw to dig out the left over glue. The holes need to be clean for the Bondo.
Then slop on a little Bondo.
Then sand off the excess Bondo
And slop on some hammertone paint.
The above action repairs the holes. They are complete.
I'm saying I am going to slop on some paint. It is slop work because I am not finished with the door. This is just show how repairing holes is done.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Somebody tried to pry this door open. It was not much of a pry job and I did not see it until I was patching the holes. But the door is bent and twisted. I'll need to address this before I can proceed. I would like to have access to an arbor press but I don't, so I will have to straighten this door with a hammer, some wood blocks and an anvil.
The masking tape is used so the bend in the door will photograph better. The door does not look all that bad; I bought it in a box of parts and the bend is not that noticeable. If it had been on a pin I sure would have noticed.
Once I get the door straightened I'll apply a skim coat of spot filler around the patches, sand them smooth and them paint with Hammertone. Because I used thin metal from a paint can, you will never be able to see the repair when I am done. But it will be a little while before I get this door finished. I will need warm weather for painting the Hammertone.
Anyway, I hope my posting this might help some else figure out how to repair a hole in a coin door.
You can bond a nickel or dime or penny or quarter behind the hole and slop on some Bondo and get the same result. You don't have to make a sheet metal patch. It all depends on how far you want to take it. However, you want to make sure you are not bonding coin in a place that will interfere with installing there coin door lock.
Does this Rustoleum Hammertone spray paint require a final clearcoat over the top of it? The hammertone looks like it would resist scratches & chipping. I’m just curious what everyone else has done.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Does this Rustoleum Hammertone spray paint require a final clearcoat over the top of it? The hammertone looks like it would resist scratches & chipping. I’m just curious what everyone else has done.
I a not sure if hammertone has any special "super" paint properties, but it feels rugged enough. A couple of coats of clear poly would not hurt anything, but I never thought about taking it that far.
I can't speak for anybody else.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:How bout for some sexy before & after pics! Thanks of the tips![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice. Did you use Rustoleum of Krylon for your hammertone?
Quoted from cottonm4:Nice. Did you use Rustoleum of Krylon for your hammertone?
Regular primer, then Rustoleum silver hammed paint/primer, funny shaped cans with the wide spray nozzle. I would not recommend tho, the nozzle dripped & splattered paint throughout process. Took too many coats to get it right. Next time I will just use the Rustoleum Hammered paint in the regular cans.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Regular primer, then Rustoleum silver hammed paint/primer, funny shaped cans with the wide spray nozzle. I would not recommend tho, the nozzle dripped & splattered paint throughout process. Took too many coats to get it right. Next time I will just use the Rustoleum Hammered paint in the regular cans.
Thanks for tip will be doing stern coin door soon
TractorDoc, I think that actually was the “ultimate” coin door restoration. I have 2 classic Bally’s I will now do with your guide. I was wondering if there are any parts u replace since u have it all apart even if it was working ok before u started? Thanks for taking the time to do that.
Quoted from eagle18:I have 2 classic Bally’s I will now do with your guide. I was wondering if there are any parts u replace since u have it all apart even if it was working ok before u started? Thanks for taking the time to do that.
Not a problem! It is rewarding to post something that others might find useful.
I cannot recall the need to replace anything major from a parts standpoint. If I had multiple doors available I would always use the best looking bits for the finished product. Of course decals were replaced, but I don't consider those a "part."
I'll soon have another Stern coin door to refurbish myself so I'll probably be going back to reference this guide as well! 
If anybody needs a fresh coin door harness, I have Bally's available now and Sterns coming online shortly. Pre-assmebled, or DIY!
First coin door restoration. Thanks TractorDoc for the excellent tutorial.
Thought the coin return flap would clean up but will need to paint that. Otherwise a drastic upgrade from what I started with.
IMG_2246 (resized).jpegIMG_2104 (resized).jpegQuoted from emsrph:Thought the coin return flap would clean up but will need to paint that
Evaporust. And then a Dremel Tool rotary wire brush. Wear goggles. Those brushes like to throw metal bristles. Some rattle can clear.
Look at your door. It is sagging. Remove the door. Get some dowel rod and fill the bottom door mounting hole in the cabinet. Remount the door with only the top bolt installed loosely. Prop up the sagging part with some pop sickle sticks until it is even. Tape the door into position. Drill a new hole into the dowel rod you glued into the hole. Install the bottom bolt and check your work.
Remove the door and install some dowel rod in the middle bolt hole. Reinstall the door and bolt down tight both screws. Drill the middle hole and install the 3rd bolt.
Nice work on the door.
EDIT: I see this door bracket is of the 2-bolt variety.
Restoring coin doors in my absolute least favorite part of restoring / scratch building. I wish I could just ship these busters out and pay someone else to do it lol. Or just buy new ones ready to pop in.
Quoted from cottonm4:Evaporust. And then a Dremel Tool rotary wire brush. Wear goggles. Those brushes like to throw metal bristles. Some rattle can clear.
Look at your door. It is sagging. Remove the door. Get some dowel rod and fill the bottom door mounting hole in the cabinet. Remount the door with only the top bolt installed loosely. Prop up the sagging part with some pop sickle sticks until it is even. Tape the door into position. Drill a new hole into the dowel rod you glued into the hole. Install the bottom bolt and check your work.
Remove the door and install some dowel rod in the middle bolt hole. Reinstall the door and bolt down tight both screws. Drill the middle hole and install the 3rd bolt.
Nice work on the door.
EDIT: I see this door bracket is of the 2-bolt variety.
Thanks cottonm4 that’s good advice on the coin flap and to get door to hang straight. It was a pain to get it installed in the frame. Finally got it not to rub.
The door is not only sagging but also bent and the hinge needs work to be tightened up. Since it’s more presentable than it was I’m good for now.
I’m with you play_pinball it wasn’t difficult but way too much time.
Quoted from play_pinball:Restoring coin doors in my absolute least favorite part of restoring / scratch building. I wish I could just ship these busters out and pay someone else to do it lol. Or just buy new ones ready to pop in.
I'm for hire 
I like doing my coin doors. Reasonable rates 
Quoted from emsrph:The door is not only sagging but also bent and the hinge needs work to be tightened up. Since it’s more presentable than it was I’m good for now.
What cabinet is this? I see the undercut in the wood to allow the coin door brackets to be recessed. The Dracula cabinet I used for a build had the area around the door recessed. But all my other Sterns just have the door hardware slapped on the top of the wood surface.
Is this your Dragonfist build?
I'll sometimes apply a few strips of adhesive foam tape to the inner edges of the frame to (a) give the coindoor a nice snug fit when it closes, which keeps it from rattling from the pin's sound, and (b) also helps to level the door in the frame if it's sagging a little. Love restoring my coindoors!
Quoted from cottonm4:What cabinet is this? I see the undercut in the wood to allow the coin door brackets to be recessed. The Dracula cabinet I used for a build had the area around the door recessed. But all my other Sterns just have the door hardware slapped on the top of the wood surface.
Is this your Dragonfist build?
It was originally a Meteor cabinet. Yes now a Dragonfist waiting for a playfield.
IMG_2195 (resized).jpegQuoted from emsrph:It was originally a Meteor cabinet. Yes now a Dragonfist waiting for a playfield.[quoted image]
Nice looking cabinet work. Did you make your own cab stencils? Or are these Pinball Pimp?
EDIT: I just looked at the Meteor cab I have in inventory. The cab has been routed for recessed coin door like yours. But the Hot Hand I made into Quicksilver was not recessed.
Quoted from cottonm4:Nice looking cabinet work. Did you make your own cab stencils? Or are these Pinball Pimp?
EDIT: I just looked at the Meteor cab I have in inventory. The cab has been routed for recessed coin door like yours. But the Hot Hand I made into Quicksilver was not recessed.
Pinball Pimp stencils for the win. Although in retrospect a custom art would look less boring.
I think not recessed for the coin door looks cleaner.
Yeah I really want to commission someone to do a good era-appropriate stencil artwork for when I build my Dragonfist.
Looks sharp nonetheless!
Quoted from WeirPinball:Anyone have a picture of the wiring on the two stern coin door switches? Mine is disconnected.
This will give you the wire colors and where they go.
Coin Door Wiring (F2K) (resized).jpgQuoted from WeirPinball:Anyone have a picture of the wiring on the two stern coin door switches? Mine is disconnected.
[quoted image]
IMG_2285 (resized).jpegIMG_2287 (resized).jpegQuoted from WeirPinball:Anyone have a picture of the wiring on the two stern coin door switches? Mine is disconnected.
[quoted image]
You sure got a nice hammertone look on your coin door. Clean looking build, too. Where did you get the gray stock looking wire loom material from, please?
Quoted from cottonm4:You sure got a nice hammertone look on your coin door. Clean looking build, too. Where did you get the gray stock looking wire loom material from, please?
[quoted image]
That was already there the coin door is powdercoated...
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Wichita, KS