(Topic ID: 242173)

Classic Bally / Stern Coin Doors - Step by Step Guide to Restoration

By TractorDoc

20 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 67 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by stashyboy
  • Topic is favorited by 47 Pinsiders


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There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 days ago

I just did a Stern Galaxy coin door too. Used the same paint. New decals (coin door & start button).

That "hammered" paint comes real close to the original paint.

Nice write-up.

#52 7 days ago

After the wife went to bed last night I took over the kitchen island for the first stages of reassembly.

I start with the switches, their mounting plates, and coin/wire guides. The center coin/wire guide components are actually a bit wider than their quarter counterparts.

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In their assembled form you can better see the larger opening to accomodate the Susan B. Anthony Dollar at the center switch.

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After assembling the switch units they can be mounted to the coin mech holder brackets. I laid the parts out before assembly but somehow forgot to put the left most switch cover in its place. The screws for the center switch unit and cover are shorter due to not having a lockout bar clip.

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The screws thread directly into the coin mech holder so the switch unit and cover can be mounted first. This is all you have to do for the center switch assembly.

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On the other side of the right and left coin mech holders place the lockout clip over the screw ends, then washer and nut up.

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I snug the nuts up by hand then give them a quick tighten via small crescent wrench. I also slid the coin return dowel into position on the third/right most coin mech holder and clipped in place while accessible.

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I do not tend to be very aggressive when moving the wiring harness, switches, etc. around, but had several wires break free from a switch or two while working. I'm going to blame aging wires/solder joints but it is a good reminder to check all your wire connections before parts become buried.

#53 7 days ago

With the switch units secured we can join the coin mech brackets via the coin return mechanism. Starting with the "inside" coin mech bracket I've placed the lever arm on the pivot point (put return spring in place) and have the U-Shaped bracket, washer, and clip ready to install.

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Adding in the Middle Coin Mech Bracket. Once again start with the lever arm on the pivot point, place both U-shaped brackets over the arm, install washer and clip.

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The outside coin mech bracket follows a similar path. Lever arm on pivot point, U-Shaped bracket, washer, and clip.

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Installed. You can see this guide has already come in handy for me. . . and it is not even finished yet!

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#54 7 days ago

Back in the workshop I dropped the cleaned and painted credit button (used Krylon Gloss White Paint + Primer) into the cleaned and painted door.

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A 3/8" socket was used to push the retainer ring down over the button end while putting upward pressure on the button from below.

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Installed. It appears my plastic wire clip suffered some breakage. Interestingly these clips still look to be available today, I saw several different options offered on E-bay.

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At this time I also installed the left halves of the coin chutes to the door, one screw each. I did not fully tighten the screws to allow some wiggle room during installation of the coin mech unit.

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#55 5 days ago

A few more additions to the coin mech unit before moving to the door.

Place the coin mech retaining clip first.

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Now the tricky part. The right coin chute drops in between the coin mech bracket and coin mech retaining clip. The screws/brass washers hold it all together. Getting things lined up took some dexterity and patience. . . I dropped a couple screws here. You can leave the screws slightly snugged (but not tight) to allow some movement/adjustment when installing to the door.

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Repeat two more times and all three right coin chutes are installed.

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#56 5 days ago

Time to move the coin mech unit over to the door.

First pass the coin return dowel thru it's opening.

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Then line up the coin chutes. One at a time wiggle the right sides over the left and thru the opening in the coin door.

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Once the coin mechs are flush you can install the ten screws that hold the coin mech holders to the door. Remember to upper two on the left side do not get installed just yet.

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Then slide the lamp sockets under (or you can go over should you choose) the right coin chute and secure with screws.

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I mounted the credit and slam switches. I also have my two longer screws ready to mount the game test/audit button bracket to those two remaining holes on the coin mech holder/door.

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#57 5 days ago

I ran into a bit of a conundrum when it came to my lockout coil bracket. The first door I took apart had the bracket on the left installed with the extra tang. I tried fitting it half a dozen differnet ways and was not able to make sense of how it would fit. I finally came to my senses and pulled one from a different Stern door and it is missing the tang.

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Consulting yet another Stern door I can see the tang-less bracket looks correct. Previous work by others can make things interesting.

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Here the proper bracket has been cleaned and everything is ready to install. In hindsight the bracket with the extra tang is likely one used in a drop target assembly that somehow was swapped into the coin door (someone must have needed a coil!).

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As I fixed the coil in place the paper cover started flaking away. New ones can be printed up/installed as desired.

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The lockout bar is ready to go in.

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Slide the lockout bar up under the two clips on the outside coin mech holders.

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The notch in the lockout bar fits into the lockout coil bracket.

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#58 5 days ago

The coin return chutes can be installed -- its a tight fit but start from the right side and tilt the chutes down in their holes and up into position.

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The coin return "chamber" is up next. I chose to paint these parts as they were showing signs of significant rust. Drop the coin return flap into the apron.

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Slide the apron down into the outside shell. I used the two holes at center to help with alignment.

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The coin return flap pokes out a bit farther with the apron in place; you can still remove/install the flap here if you wish.

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Installed with the three screws across the bottom.

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#59 5 days ago

Time to switch back to the front side.

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I cleaned up the coin bezel as best I could -- this would be another part worth sending out to have plated if yours is in bad shape and if you have the means. I cleaned up the plastic housings and painted them with the same white paint used on the credit button. New price plates in various styles may be available from PBR, Marcos, etc.

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Press the price plate into the housing, then you can fit the housing on the door over the coin chute.

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Place the bezel over the coin chute housings and secure with the two screws on the backside.

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Ultimately I chose to go back to bypassing the center coin option so I cut/installed a clean piece of aluminumized sheet metal to block the opening. I did not use cardboard behind it.
I had a number of Stern Electronics decals made sometime back for coin doors so I installed one. I have seen two different versions of this decal, the other version has a blue ring around the perimiter. I did not have any extra credit button decals handy but they can also be ordered from aftermarket suppliers. The original credit decal had a foil/mirror like finish that the Marco's option does not duplicate.

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Pictures of finished product(s) coming soon. Need to dig thru my files to find a couple from other games.

A quick side note on Stern Doors. There is an earlier style Stern Door that favored two coin mechs vs. three. Those doors have some minor differences in how the coin chutes mount, coin return dowel placement, etc. Not sure that it warrants a separate chapter of assembly/disassembly, but definitely warrants mention. Make sure to take lots of pictures no matter what!

#60 5 days ago

Several assembled views of the backside, less the coin mechanisms.

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#61 5 days ago

Several Coin Door Pics from my Galaxy, Meteor, and Nine Ball. Difficult to tell from the pictures, but the Meteor door has the plain credit button decal while Nine Ball has the foil version -- I was playing favorites.

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#62 4 days ago

I’m just finishing up a run of stern style coin plate plastics for one of my vendors. Would it be of benefit to make one with no coin slot in it, as a blocking plate? Would be stupid easy at this point to make that variant.

There is also a Chicago Coin version of these Stern doors too, which doesn’t have the start button location.

#63 4 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

I’m just finishing up a run of stern style coin plate plastics for one of my vendors. Would it be of benefit to make one with no coin slot in it, as a blocking plate? Would be stupid easy at this point to make that variant.

When you write "coin plate plastics" are you referring to the white frames that hold the silk screened price plates or are you referring to the plates themselves that have "Quarter" or "Dollar" on them? I think the only way to truly block off an opening would be to create one of the white frame pieces without the coin slot cut into it.

I have seen some price plates made that say "Stern" vs. having a dollar amount on them, a nice way to dress the games up in the home environment.

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#64 3 days ago

Yep, I’m talking about the white plastic frame that holds the price plate. I’m just about done 3D printing a pile of them with a few different slot sizes. Easy to make one with no slot at all.

#65 3 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Yep, I’m talking about the white plastic frame that holds the price plate.

That is great to hear, I could use a couple of those myself! Make sure to mention which vendor will be carrying them.

Personally I'd have them with the coin slots cut in, but there may be others out there that would prefer without. . . perhaps to prevent that sneaky nephew from shoving things down the opening?

#66 3 days ago

It’ll be Marco carrying these. They ordered quarter, dime, and dollar sized slots. I’ll see if they want to do the block-off’s as well.

Once I get their pile done, I’ll be adding to my website too. Since I print in-house I can do the oddball sizes and custom colors as well.

#67 3 days ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Now for some fun stuff.
Luckily my Coin Bezel Housing from Paragon was in good condition and cleaned up nicely. This would be worth sending out to get plated otherwise. I've installed the four screws/hinge and credit/coin return buttons. Remember the space on the credit button!
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First the metal coin slot plates go in, then the price plates, then the holding brackets.
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Looking good. Love how the "L" in Dollar has a bit of an attitude.
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Great write-up, could have used something like this for the first one that I did. They are definitely complicated. One thing you might want to include in the write up for others if you don't already do this. Since these coin entrance price plates are virtually unobtainium, cleaning them up as best as possible is an obvious thing to do. They're often scratched up heavily. I have actually taken different grits of sandpaper and regrained them up to a almost mirror shine not unlike your coin door skin process. Eventually you can use Novas and get quite a nice finish.

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