(Topic ID: 25774)

Class of 1812(system3) no display:*Fixed*

By Malibu-SS

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Malibu-SS
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

#1 11 years ago

Hi
I have a Gottlieb Class of 1812 that was working fine.Then the displays stopped working.Game works and plays 100%
I have tried the display in my Cactus Jack,and it works fine.I have also checked all the fuses and they are also fine.
I cannot find any info on what to check for?
Can anyone help me out with some things to check,or a website with info.(I have tried PinWikI,and Pinrepair)
Lots of DMD info,but no Alpha-numeric info

Thanks in advance

#2 11 years ago

I have now changed the ribbon cable and the power supply...still no displays.
I hope it is it not the cpu,as it is not that old

#3 11 years ago

Did you remove fuses and check them or did you check them in game?

#4 11 years ago

I removed them before checking them

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from Malibu-SS:

I have now changed the ribbon cable and the power supply...still no displays.
I hope it is it not the cpu,as it is not that old

When you say you changed the power supply, which board did you swap out?

Do you get any blinking on the A8 display controller board when you turn the machine on?

Did you ever turn the game on with the display controller not connected?

viperrwk

#6 11 years ago

Test for voltages and see what you have to J1 and from J2 on power supply board in the back box. Leaving connectors plugged in, test in the back of the connectors.
J1 pins 1,4,5 = 12 volts in.
J1 pins 2,3,6 = ground.
J2 pins 1-8 = +5 volts.
Also, from pinrepair:
Gottlieb Alpha-Numeric Latched Driver Problems. This information is regarding the 20 digit alpha numeric Gottlieb display MA-1361. It uses a Fluorescent latched driver at U9 (TI5812N or UCN5812F or A6812). This chip is obsolete and difficult to find. Failure mode is a blank display of both 20 digit tubes, and F5 fuse at transformer module A12 (1/4 amp) is blown.
If you try to play the game it most likely will have strange behavior and even reset during play. Display board U9 may be hot to the touch. This is even with F5 blown. The reason for this is U9 is a dual voltage part. With F5 blown the 47vdc is not present, but the +5 volts is. The common failure mode of this device is a short internally between pin 1 (Vbb) and pin 14 (Ground). This creates excessive current draw to the four diode bridge CR1-CR4 on the display board.
The reason this problem plays havoc with the game is this. With this chip shorted internally, the +5 can be affected and draw more current. This is why the chip can be very warm to the touch. Since the power supply is not self-adjusting, the +5vdc will drop, depending on the amount of current through U9 to ground, causing CPU resets due to low 5 volts. This happens especially during a power increase from coils operating.

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

When you say you changed the power supply, which board did you swap out?
Do you get any blinking on the A8 display controller board when you turn the machine on?
Did you ever turn the game on with the display controller not connected?
viperrwk

I believe it is A2(upper left corner)

No blinking at all when game is turned on

And no I did not disconnect it with game on

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from pintastic:

Test for voltages and see what you have to J1 and from J2 on power supply board in the back box. Leaving connectors plugged in, test in the back of the connectors.
J1 pins 1,4,5 = 12 volts in.
J1 pins 2,3,6 = ground.
J2 pins 1-8 = +5 volts.
Also, from pinrepair:
Gottlieb Alpha-Numeric Latched Driver Problems. This information is regarding the 20 digit alpha numeric Gottlieb display MA-1361. It uses a Fluorescent latched driver at U9 (TI5812N or UCN5812F or A6812). This chip is obsolete and difficult to find. Failure mode is a blank display of both 20 digit tubes, and F5 fuse at transformer module A12 (1/4 amp) is blown.
If you try to play the game it most likely will have strange behavior and even reset during play. Display board U9 may be hot to the touch. This is even with F5 blown. The reason for this is U9 is a dual voltage part. With F5 blown the 47vdc is not present, but the +5 volts is. The common failure mode of this device is a short internally between pin 1 (Vbb) and pin 14 (Ground). This creates excessive current draw to the four diode bridge CR1-CR4 on the display board.
The reason this problem plays havoc with the game is this. With this chip shorted internally, the +5 can be affected and draw more current. This is why the chip can be very warm to the touch. Since the power supply is not self-adjusting, the +5vdc will drop, depending on the amount of current through U9 to ground, causing CPU resets due to low 5 volts. This happens especially during a power increase from coils operating.

Thanks for the info,I will check this when I get home

#9 11 years ago

My advise, send this hunk of junk back to the owner in return for a full refund! Send the CJ as well.

#10 11 years ago

In addition to the 5v you need to check the other voltages on the A8 controller board. I don't think they are any different for an AN than a DMD since I believe the A8 board is interchangeable between both. For a DMD on P2 it's +62v on pin 5, -100v on pin 8, -112v on pin 7, +5 on pin 1 and +12 on pin 4. If any of these are out and the voltages/fuses on the transformer panel are good, you either have a bad bridge, bad zener or some combination of both on the A8 board.

Also, no blink on the board makes one suspect the U8 GAL. But all of this is from DMD schematics. Someone with an AN version would have to confirm this.

viperrwk

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

My advise, send this hunk of junk back to the owner in return for a full refund! Send the CJ as well.

LOL.....I will get right on that

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

In addition to the 5v you need to check the other voltages on the A8 controller board. I don't think they are any different for an AN than a DMD since I believe the A8 board is interchangeable between both. For a DMD on P2 it's +62v on pin 5, -100v on pin 8, -112v on pin 7, +5 on pin 1 and +12 on pin 4. If any of these are out and the voltages/fuses on the transformer panel are good, you either have a bad bridge, bad zener or some combination of both on the A8 board.
Also, no blink on the board makes one suspect the U8 GAL. But all of this is from DMD schematics. Someone with an AN version would have to confirm this.
viperrwk

The glass is on the A8 board.I have put this whole board in my Cactus Jacks and it works 100%

#13 11 years ago

My bad - apologies - thinking DMD.

If the board works completely in CJ and your 5V is good in 1812, and you changed the cables, I'd double check the voltages and fuses coming from the transformer panel.

viperrwk

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

My bad - apologies - thinking DMD.
If the board works completely in CJ and your 5V is good in 1812, and you changed the cables, I'd double check the voltages and fuses coming from the transformer panel.
viperrwk

Thanks
I am going to check them tomorrow night I will let you know what I find

Thanks

1 week later
#15 11 years ago

Update
I finally had some time to look at this again

I found a poor connection at the F3 fuse (display filament)

Thanks to all that helped!!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 899.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Pittsburgh, PA

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/class-of-1812system3-no-displayhelp and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.