(Topic ID: 44044)

CLASS OF 1812 CLUB...Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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  • 338 posts
  • 89 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Anony
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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#158 5 years ago

Quick Review: www.pinballcenter.de Reproduction Plastics for Class of 1812:

I was thrilled when I found that www.pinballcenter.de was selling reproduction plastics for Class of 1812. They are expensive at 179 euros for a full set, and 22.9 euros for just slingshots. I bought a full set plus a set of slingshots. By the time a paid for the plastics, VAT and a mail forwarding service (they do not ship to the U.S.), I spent a total of $262.

The bad news: Despite pinballcenter's description of "Reproduction, Top Quality!", they are very poor quality:

The colors are horrible. (Ex: Willie Woof is purple, when he should be tan.)

The resolution is grainy, not sharp.

The plastic is discolored (white) on the edges, where it was cut.

Buy only as a last resort.

- Mark

Update: Embarrassingly, I was incorrect on the discolored edges. The top had a protective film that I had not removed. However, I stand by my other comments.

Update: Added a scan of my original Willie Woof Slingshot Plastic side by side with the reproduction version.
img183.jpgimg183.jpg

4 years later
#225 1 year ago

Hi All;

I could not find a commercially available whole playfield protector for my Class of 1812, so: I made my own.
(I have a prototype that fits and I'll make the final design tweaks today.)

I'm not going to sell them, but I will share my design so others can make them.

Mine is made of 0.02" PTEG, and cut using a drag knife on a 2' X 2' CNC router.
(Because my CNC machine is so small, I had to cut the bottom half, reposition the material, then cut the top half.)
(Your local Sign Shop *might* be able to make one for you.)

My Design is Guaranteed!!!

Guarantee: If you cut the design on my CNC machine, using my drag knife, with my settings and calibrations: It will fit my Class of 1812. :-p

In other words: It may take some tweaking to fit your Class of 1812. I recommend first making a paper template to test fit.

I'll post my design (Adobe Illustrator CS5 ".ai" format) in a few days.

An image from an earlier prototype is attached.

- Mark

Class Of 1812 Playfield Protector P01 (resized).pngClass Of 1812 Playfield Protector P01 (resized).png

#227 1 year ago

To prevent wear to my playfield from having a steel ball rolling around it at high speed...

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Not a thing. PF of a well maintained game in a home environment will not wear.

Sure it will. The more friends you have, the faster it will wear.

Also, what makes you think my games are well maintained??? I replace bulbs as needed, every few years I'll replace the balls, and give them a half-assed waxing (without depopulating the playfield).

My Winter 2022 Project is to shop all my games. This was inspired by my PCB repair guy walking past my Monster Bash and saying: That thing is filthy!

Quoted from snyper2099:

Would you want a PF protector to come on all new games or every single pinball game that is at a show or on location for people to play?

Hell Yes! No one would every have to wax a playfield again. Just spritz a little windex on a rag, and give the protector a wipe.

I had a friend over playing one of my games (a much better player than I), and he started talking whole playfield protectors. He said he was thinking about getting a couple, but did not want to until he played a game with one installed, so he could see if it played differently. I pointed out that the game he was playing had one, and he hadn't noticed. He ordered a couple for his older games...

BTW:

As part shopping my games this winter, not only am I installing a whole playfield protector on each and every game, but I'm also installing silicone rings and replacing every f'in bulb in the playfield with an LED.

My Winter 2020 Project was to build a Virtual Pinball Cabinet, so I can play pretend pinball. Is is as good as the real thing? No! However, it let's be get a flavor for games I would otherwise never get to experience.

#233 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

That settles it then folks. Everyone else is doing it wrong. PF protector condoms on everything, then all you need to keep games playing well is windex on a rag! If you and your friends think it does not change the way a game plays, you are wrong. Your money and time is better spent on balls, rubbers, and regular cleaning of your machines over a PF protector. When I mentioned well maintained, I meant new balls and cleaning every 500-1000 plays. (I play my games a lot.)
I don’t blame you for wanting to protect games or make them play better with rubbers and bulbs. It’s commendable. A PF protector does absolutely nothing positive unless you are a company making and selling them. Then, they are an absolute must. Are you also frightened by playfield dimples? Don’t fret, they are natural… let the metal balls touch the playfields man, it’s the natural way!

Yup, I can't tell the difference. And, if I could, I would not care.

Pinball machines are are like golf courses: Every one is different. Even 2 of the same model play different. The playfields are at different angles. The flippers are at different angles. Every mech on the playfield has slight variations in placement. Linkages and coil sleeves have different amounts of wear. The playfield itself is not perfectly straight. Power supplies (and capacitors) performance change as they age. Even the local humidity affects game performance.

Perfection is not required to have fun.

- Mark

#235 1 year ago

All;

I've completed my Class of 1812 Whole Playfield Protector. I've attached a picture before I peeled off its protective film, so you can checkout the fit. The edges are clean, any wrinkles is just the protective film coming off of the plastic.

It's made of 0.02" PTEG. I cut it out using a drag knife on my CNC machine. My CNC is only 2' x 2', so I had to use tiling. Tiling allows me to cut projects of any length, 2 feet at a time.

If you would like a copy of the design or close-up pictures of the fit: Please send me a Pinside Message.

- Mark

20221211_101225.jpg20221211_101225.jpg
#237 1 year ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

I’ve never seen a Class of 1812 with a nice playfield so it’s this is a nice one. Probably best to throw a protector on it.

It took me over 2 years to find a Class of 1812 with a good playfield. At the time I was looking, every playfield seemed to be worn down to the bare wood. (Although others have since posted some great looking playfield pics on this thread.)

- Mark

3 months later
#244 1 year ago
Quoted from sbmania:

Anybody got a nice Class of 1812 for sale or trade in the eastern
pa region? Or bringing to Pinfest? Looking for one to add to my collection.

I wish you luck. It took me 2 years to find a nice one.

- Mark

4 months later
#260 8 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

Smart! I might have to do something like this but I'd be scared of nudging... I have a spare set of legs so will probably just drill them to the height I need. I don't want to give up the chance to get this machine since it's so rare and seems like I won't have another opportunity in the future.

Whew! I originally misread, and thought you were going to drill the cabinet, not a set of legs.

OK Mark. Take a few deep breaths, calm down, everything is going to be alright....

- Mark

2 weeks later
#267 8 months ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

It’s not fun…. Also, there is one huge gotcha in the wiring harness where you can misplug two connectors in and magic smoke happens instantly.

I had to remove the back box to get mine home.

It's a pain.

Just have a fine point marker and label any connectors not already labeled. Also write down a count of how many connectors are disconnected from each board, or take a pic of each board before disconnecting anything.

- Mark

#269 8 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

Thanks, I managed to find a cargo van I can rent so I don't have to worry about the head. As long as uhaul doesn't screw me I should be picking up my machine this weekend.
Also got my glass cover. Didn't quite come out as I wanted but it will work. Apparently they messed up the cut and had to re-do it so I have a spare one with crooked edges
[quoted image]

Good luck with the move.

And, welcome to the club!

- Mark

#273 8 months ago

3. The platform that the hand sits on is just floating there in my game. Is it supposed to be like this or should it be secured with fasteners somewhere?

It should be secured with plastic push rivots.

4. Did this game come from the factory with a center post between the flippers? Mine seems to have it removed and the hole is filled. I'm wondering how people feel about the game with it in or out.

Yes, it had a factory center post. Some people remove it, as the game is relatively easy. Personally, I prefer factory correct games. Also if another pin kicks my butt, I can come back to Class of 1812 to feel better about my skills.

- Mark

#277 7 months ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

Yes.
It is as simple as removing the old incandescent bulbs, and installing the LED’s. The LED’s will really make the inserts POP, and they look beautiful.
All my pinballs have Comet Pinball LED’s in them, and I use the color known as “sunlight”. This variant of white is the closest you will get to true white:
Warm white >>> yellowish hue
Cool white >>> blueish hue
Sunlight >>> true white
The sunlight bulbs also look great for general illumination, and would work in any pinball machine.

I also have Comet LEDs. I prefer warm white, as it's closer to the original look.

There are a couple exceptions.

The blue insert in front of the right ramp faded, so I used a blue bulb.

Also be careful with the flashers, the ones I installed are way to bright. I'm just waiting for my next order to find something a bit dimmer.

I also left the above play field indicator lamps as incandescents.

- Mark

#279 7 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

Also can anyone tell me where the teeth lamp is located? I don't see it come on when I do the lamp test and in the manual it's labeled as L2 but I don't see that anywhere on the diagram.

It's inside the chattering teeth, stuck like peanut butter to the roof of the mouth.

Quoted from Anony:

Last question for now. Does anyone know the item number for the center post between the flippers? I don't see it in the manual either.

I don't have a part number, but I'll post a pic of mine later.

- Mark

#280 7 months ago
Quoted from Shaker:

I don't have a part number, but I'll post a pic of mine later.

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1 week later
#288 7 months ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Wrong side of the country for me or I'd be all over that. Great deal!

It too me 2 years to find a nice one...

- Mark

4 months later
#325 3 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

Oh wow, I don't get how I can search the web for pinball stuff and never find it all. I'm very tempted to order this, I'm going to have to do some digging to see if this company is legit.
EDIT: Here's what I found out. Pinball.center is a legit site, they've been around more than 10 years and have a pretty good reputation on this site. However, the only threads I could find talking about the quality of their plastics were negative. Lots of people saying the repro art is not super accurate and that the print quality is bad.
Shipping is from Germany and with the CAD exchange rate right now it would be over $300 CAD for me to order them.
It sounds like you only want to order from them if your plastics are in horrible shape.

Do not buy from them. I posted a review of them in this thread with pics. Post 158.

- Mark

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