(Topic ID: 87978)

Help: Cirqus Voltaire, ringmaster eddy sensor stopped registering hits

By Cam

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Cam
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

image.jpg

#1 9 years ago

I finally found some time to work on pins tonight, but I could use some help with Cirqus Voltaire. The ringmaster eddy sensor stopped registering hits all together, CV uses an auto eddy sensor so it is not an adjustable board.

I've done a switch test with a ball and nothing registers. The LED on the auto eddy board does not come on or flash at all. When I remove the eddy sensor cable (two-pin) the LED still doesn't come on. When I remove the four-pin connector and place it back on the board it registers the switch #16 but still no LED.
Just in case it is related, you need to you my ringmaster magnet isn't working either, its next on my list after the eddy sensor.

This is now beyond my level of skill, any help would be fantastic.

#2 9 years ago

Can you swap it with Road Show . The eddy board that is To test

#3 9 years ago

Great idea Rob, not sure why I didn't think of it! I just swapped one of the RS eddy boards into CV with the same results as the originbal CV eddy board... no LED at all, two pin cable does nothing, but the four pin triggers the #16 switch in the switch test.

#4 9 years ago

Sounds like your problem might be different but when mine stopped working I put in the new chip from pinbits which half fixed it for a while. Then I bought the pinbits board and it has been pretty much flawless ever since. If your board is toast, I highly recommend the pinbits one. No point replacing it if it's something else though. Sorry I can't be more help.

#5 9 years ago

This could just be a switch issue. Are any other switches in he column/row having issues? Check them in test. Check the other switches to the left/right/above/below in the matrix, as they are piggybacked and the bad switch can sometimes be the piggybacked wire from a previous working one breaking off.

As for the RM magnet, this and the flasher have common fail issues because of the type of wire they use, which isn't meant for the movement the RM gets. I replaced mine with 18 gauge lampcord, flat, two pieces (one for each circuit), and this easily moves with the RM without issue.

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

This could just be a switch issue. Are any other switches in he column/row having issues? Check them in test. Check the other switches to the left/right/above/below in the matrix, as they are piggybacked and the bad switch can sometimes be the piggybacked wire from a previous working one breaking off.

I just checked ALL the switches in test, all appear perfectly fine (except the eddy switch).
The one thing I did notice is that in test when pulling the four pin wire off of the eddy board and putting it back on the the board, the #16 switch stays on if I was holding a ball over the eddy, just like if you hold a switch closed.

Quoted from Atomicboy:

As for the RM magnet, this and the flasher have common fail issues because of the type of wire they use, which isn't meant for the movement the RM gets. I replaced mine with 18 gauge lampcord, flat, two pieces (one for each circuit), and this easily moves with the RM without issue.

That makes sense, thanks for the tip. I will replace the wire and let you know.

#7 9 years ago

The auto-eddy games have a weird system whereby the CPU can reset the board by interrupting power. If the RS board isn't working, I'd suspect such a problem. There are four things to try:

1) Check the auto eddy board in Roadshow
2) Set the game for manual eddy (only in the home ROM version)
3) Reseat the ASIC - a good push with your thumbs can do that, just be careful and support the board from behind.
4) Reset the game (but this dumps the high score).

#8 9 years ago

I will head downstairs right away and give those a try.
1) I did try the RS board last night, (see my second post). My RS has manual adjustable eddy boards.
2) Leave the auto CV board and switch it to manual in the menu?

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from Cam:

I just checked ALL the switches in test, all appear perfectly fine (except the eddy switch).
The one thing I did notice is that in test when pulling the four pin wire off of the eddy board and putting it back on the the board, the #16 switch stays on if I was holding a ball over the eddy, just like if you hold a switch closed.

But did you check the physical switches? Check the left in lane switch and the piggy backed orange-blue wire.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

But did you check the physical switches? Check the left in lane switch and the piggy backed orange-blue wire.

I just checked the left in lane rollover switch #26, it visually checks out.
I'm not sure what you mean about the piggy backed orange-blue wire? I can only find one that goes to the popper opto switch from the opto board and another that goes to the RM along with the RM magnet wires...

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

As for the RM magnet, this and the flasher have common fail issues because of the type of wire they use, which isn't meant for the movement the RM gets. I replaced mine with 18 gauge lampcord, flat, two pieces (one for each circuit), and this easily moves with the RM without issue.

As expected you were right! I found a broken wire in the wire loom just below the ringmaster. I fixed it but will plan to replace it with lampcord to try to eliminate having further issues.

Quoted from PamPinbits:

The auto-eddy games have a weird system whereby the CPU can reset the board by interrupting power. If the RS board isn't working, I'd suspect such a problem. There are four things to try:
1) Check the auto eddy board in roadshow
2) Set the game for manual eddy (only in the home ROM version)
3) Reseat the ASIC - a good push with your thumbs can do that, just be careful and support the board from behind.
4) Reset the game (but this dumps the high score).

1) I tried my RS board last night, it didn't work.
2) Tonight I tried the manual board from my SS and changed to manual eddy in the settings - no change.
3) Gave the ASIC a good push - no change.
4) I did the factory reset - no change.

Even after the factory reset it instantly showed "check switch 16 top eddy", is that because the switch is always registered as closed?

Anyone have my next move? I'm thinking Adam is right and it is a switch issue within the switch matrix, but I'm just guessing. I'm going to go have a look at the phsical switches again and hope I can find something.....

#12 9 years ago

1) I meant, try your CV board in RS. The sensors are compatible. If the board tests good, then we at least have it eliminated.

2) CV handshakes with the board at power up, and you get the bad reading if the board is not installed. If you switch to manual eddy, that should clear.

3) Does the switch matrix show the eddy switch always closed, no matter what you do?

1 week later
#13 9 years ago
Quoted from PamPinbits:

1) I meant, try your CV board in RS. The sensors are compatible. If the board tests good, then we at least have it eliminated.
2) CV handshakes with the board at power up, and you get the bad reading if the board is not installed. If you switch to manual eddy, that should clear.
3) Does the switch matrix show the eddy switch always closed, no matter what you do?

1) Haha ok, I should have read it that way... I just tried the CV board in my SS.
2) In SS the board did not set a code for the eddy sensor but I couldn't get it to light up the led or function in test with a ball at all.
3) It always shows as closed, the only way I can get it to show as open is in the switch test, it opens when the 4 pin connector is removed from the board and stays open until the connector is plugged back in.

#14 9 years ago

Bump

1 week later
#15 9 years ago

Bump, I still haven't solved the problem, does anyone one have anymore suggestions to try?

1 month later
#16 9 years ago

Still haven't solved this, any help would be awesome!!

#17 9 years ago

You need to trace the wires leading from the eddy board to the back box, and look up what each line should be. Use a volt meter to check if there is any power at all going to the board. If none, you need to check the fuses, use the volt meter to test the resistance across the fuse, and if it is a big number, the fuse needs to be replaced and failing that it might be a transistor or a triac.

There is a good diagram in the CV manual, page 3-6 that shows which wire is which, to some extent.

#18 9 years ago

1) Your auto eddy board does not work in Scared Stiff = auto eddy board bad. The light should come on and flash (weakly) for a few seconds on power up. Not happening, your board is broken and you need a new one or a repair.

2) You may still have a 12V problem. Can you measure 12V across the long cap on the eddy board? If not, then there's another issue.

#19 9 years ago

Thank you for the guidance Pam and Retro. I'll be home tomorrow to start chasing it again.

#20 9 years ago

I didn't realize you did a swap on the eddy board with an SS. If it didn't work on that, then Pam is absolutely right, bad eddy board. Definitely do Pam's step #2, if you have a bad 12V source that could be a whole other problem.

I have a spare eddy board that was on my CV before I upgraded it to the one on Pinbits. If you'd like, you can have it, shipped for $20, PM if you'd like it. It is in no way defective, the one on Pinbits is just better equipped to register quick successive hits if they are less than .5 sec apart. Way cheaper, but of course not quite as good as the one on Pinbits.

#21 9 years ago

Another vote for the Pinbits board. 100% worth it.

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from PamPinbits:

1) Your auto eddy board does not work in Scared Stiff = auto eddy board bad. The light should come on and flash (weakly) for a few seconds on power up. Not happening, your board is broken and you need a new one or a repair.
2) You may still have a 12V problem. Can you measure 12V across the long cap on the eddy board? If not, then there's another issue.

Is C4 the one to measure? I got a 1.3V reading on it...

I swapped the CV eddy board into my SS again just to make sure. The led on my CV board lit up briefly when I plugged in the 4 wire connector, in "switch test" rolling a ball over the eddy sensor didn't work at first, until I pulled the 4 wire connector off and plugged it right back in, then it tests totally fine and registers every roll of the ball.
I then put the CV eddy board back into CV, I'm back to where I started. No led and it only registers in "switch test" as I plug in the 4 wire connector.

image.jpgimage.jpg

#23 9 years ago

So if my eddy board tests fine in my SS, and I only get a 1.3V reading on C4 cap, do I have a 12V issue?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
12,500
Machine - For Sale
Brighton, CO
9,600 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
San Ramon, CA
$ 37.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
1,234 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Bismarck, ND
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 45.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Just 3D Mods
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 45.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 450.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Pinheadz
Toppers
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Van Alstyne, TX
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
Decals
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 29.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
Decorations
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 209.00
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 27.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 10.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cirqus-voltaire-ringmaster-eddy-sensor-stopped-registering-hits and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.