Looking good. CV is my next swap; excited to start it soon.
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Looking good. I start my swap in a few weeks as Ron just finished clearing mine. Excited to get it going!
I believe that’s a spacer that is part of the ball trap kit; should go underneath the high wire ramp to raise it up a touch.
Quoted from KJS:Thankyou very much. Can I trouble someone for a picture...of course I missed it in the 500 I took pulling down!
Not sure who Ron is??? Playfield mirco and plating is Chris.
You’re welcome. I’ll try to snap a picture tonight.
Ron Kruzman is clearing my Mirco.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/4059/Bally_1997_Cirqus_Voltaire_Service_Bulletin_102.pdf
Page 3 shows where to install the nylon spacer.
Quoted from KJS:Hi guys. Getting along with restore. New playfield has this hole? Original didn't but some googling I do see it on other pkayfields as well. What goes there? Its in ball travel path! Thanks in advance.
Highclasspinball mirco, what is this extra hole?
Marc
I just got my Micro back from Kruzman and it’s insanely nice. But I also have the extra hole...which I need to figure out how big of a problem that is...
Marc
Quoted from pintechev:I just got my Micro back from Kruzman and it’s insanely nice. But I also have the extra hole...which I need to figure out how big of a problem that is...
Marc
So, yeah, it’s right in the ball path and when the sideshow is not lit, that’s your left orbit, so, solution needed.
Is someone crafty enough to 3D print a plug for this? Just needs to be flush, it’s not visible to the player at all, so color and material probably is not important. Base needs to be wider so it can be affixed.
Any takers?
Marc
Quoted from Turtle:I'm not sure if this helps but I checked my CV last night and there is no hole on mine.
Confirmed that my original does not have a hole as well.
Quoted from KJS:Slowly getting there on my restore.
What about the hole with the disappearing post middle back....post sits well down how does the ball not get caught there? Checked online and it seems normal setup.
It doesn’t get caught there. And if it did, ball search would take care of it.
Quoted from dmacy:Marc, I use a brad point bit and if I don’t have that size I slowly creep up on the drill bit. Have a machinist friend that has given me tons of drill bits so has been helpful. Vid has some good recommendations and Kruzman sells a kit which I should’ve bought by now. I’ve cracked my share but fortunately nothing too bad or was covered by parts, etc. I’ve had good luck though on CV. Only the two guides below the flippers are left.
For drilling out the guides, do you use a bit smaller than the guide, or do you try to match the circumference of the ball guide and let the barb do the work?
Quoted from dmacy:I use a small rubber mallet with dual ended. I use these with plastic vs rubber but either will work fine. Spent previous life as office furtniturr installation foreman and it’s worked well for me with this setup.
Super helpful—thanks so much.
Marc
To the left of the leftmost juggler hole there is a decorative plastic on top, a black spacer, and this clear plastic. I don’t have a clear picture, but that’s where it goes.
You’re right! I found a picture online and I’m dead wrong. Quick fix tomorrow morning - glad I checked the thread! I knew it looked funny...
Marc
Nearly done now, need help getting it off the rotisserie and into the cab, and have the diverter and rear magnet to install once it’s free of the rotisserie mounting points. And then testing and tweaking. I am excited to get this wrapped up! It’s been a fun swap and I have learned a ton in the process as this is only my second restoration and this one went quite differently.
Quoted from dmacy:Awesome and looks great. Understand about the parts left off. I’m considering leaving both ringmaster and pop bumper mech out to save some weight putting back in too. That and they really hang down.
Never would know it was your second as it looks fantastic. And this machine is certainly different. Lots of parts to strip completely down to clean/rebuild.
The ringmaster is hard to get at when in the cabinet. My advice is to get a friend to help you install it and do as much as you can on the rotisserie.
Quoted from OlDirty:Looks very nice! Did everything fit well on the playfield (all the holes in the correct position)? I'm also doing a CV restoration with a Mirco playfield and would like to know before, if i need to be prepared for some missalignment.
Most of the rear dimples were OK. From memory:
If it was a lamp PCB or a subway ramp; they were perfect.
The flipper plate holes were mostly off, but you can’t mess it up since the bushing hole is all the matters.
The GI was mostly just a suggestion and not critical, was also mostly wrong.
All in all, nothing big or hard to deal with. You just have to go slowly and test fit everything.
Marc
The other thing I will say is that all of the post holes are too small. And you need to be very careful because the posts have two diameters; the threads and the collars above the threads. The collars are slightly larger and that’s what you need to drill for.
The metal ball guides weren’t too bad, but I would recommend doing them first when the playfield is bare along with the T-nuts. Then populate as you normally would.
Strangely, the display plastic does not fit after the swap. Both myself and another guy are having the same problem. Not sure if it’s just a thicker PF or not, but the back sits a little higher and the plastic does not allow the playfield to sit down in the lockdown groove properly.
I’ll have to modify the mount for the the display to accommodate it. For now, the plastic is off
So, it’s all tweaked up. The only thing I need to chase is the eject scoop is getting caught as the ball cannot always make it up and out. I think the underside is properly aligned and the upper hood is likely just off a touch. My plan is to take the top hood off and enlarge the holes so I have some play in it’s positioning and tweak it and fasten it down.
The display is another thing I’m not yet sure how to solved. The new playfield is sitting higher somehow and the display is now too low. The whole thing needs to come up a touch but I’m not yet sure how to beat resolve that. For now, it’s fine. But I’ll need to deal with that soon to call the work complete.
Quoted from OlDirty:Does the playfield have another size or do you shift the playfield "mountings" a bit maybe?
Going to move the display up a touch. I don’t plan to touch the playfield.
OK. So I had an interesting experience. While I finished the restore on Friday, I haven't played a ton of games. I played more tonight and noticed that the main ramp was clunky. Hard to describe, but it wasn't as smooth as it was in the past and I was getting strange rejects. Turns out that the dimples for the main ramp aren't correct. When I installed it originally it was clear that both dimples weren't possible with my ramp, so I did my best to measure and get the ramp lined up and used the left dimple and ignored the right. This ended up pulling the ramp too far left.
After some careful measurement on the original playfield, I determined that the ramp flap should be closer to the right target than the left target. I was no more than 1/16th of an inch off, but it made a huge difference. I redrilled and moved the ramp and I can't get over the difference.
So, a few things pop out to me. First, it's the first topside issue I had with placement. Second, a 1/16 of an inch is a very small thing to have made that big of a difference, but it did and the shot is so much better now. Imagine how hard it must be to design these things to shoot smoothly when fractions of an inch have that much impact!
dmacy make sure you don't trust the ramp flap dimples and measure from your original before you drill. Maybe my reproduction ramp is a little different, but it was OK on my original PF.
Figured it was worth sharing.
Marc
I am slowly dialing this in! The swap was easier than this part
Due to the extra clear, all of the switches needed to be adjusted, lots of small tweaks and bends of the metal ball guides to get them back in form after being re-grained.
Slowly but surely, it’s getting closer and closer to being dialed in properly.
Rear scoop is under the display so it won’t be seen. Game is looking great! Can’t wait to see it all done.
Quoted from dmacy:I actually tried just taking the display plastic off but it still was hanging up. So guessing I’ll have to see if it’s the wooden asembly or colorDMD. What was your final fix?
I enlarged the holes in the bracket that screws into the cabinet to raise the overall DMD higher. It has a little room to go up, and that allowed it to clear once I reinstalled it.
Quoted from dmacy:Spent a little more time with the Dremel on the block. That helped but then found that the issue is the colorDMD (nothing wrong with it!) sticking out and slightly wedging playfield. I could drill new holes for the studs in the block for the display but want to try some other options first. This confirms the playfield maybe is longer or thicker but will work on making some adjustments to the slide mounts and see what I can sneak out. Will update what was done. Hopefully this is just a case by case situation.
Thanks! Let us know what you figure out!
Oh, I had this exact issue after the swap. I had a diode shorted on the matrix. I believe it was up where the playfield plug that I made you was. Check that area carefully.
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