Cirqus Voltaire
Bally, 1997The other thing I will say is that all of the post holes are too small. And you need to be very careful because the posts have two diameters; the threads and the collars above the threads. The collars are slightly larger and that’s what you need to drill for.
The metal ball guides weren’t too bad, but I would recommend doing them first when the playfield is bare along with the T-nuts. Then populate as you normally would.
Strangely, the display plastic does not fit after the swap. Both myself and another guy are having the same problem. Not sure if it’s just a thicker PF or not, but the back sits a little higher and the plastic does not allow the playfield to sit down in the lockdown groove properly.
I’ll have to modify the mount for the the display to accommodate it. For now, the plastic is off 
So, it’s all tweaked up. The only thing I need to chase is the eject scoop is getting caught as the ball cannot always make it up and out. I think the underside is properly aligned and the upper hood is likely just off a touch. My plan is to take the top hood off and enlarge the holes so I have some play in it’s positioning and tweak it and fasten it down.
The display is another thing I’m not yet sure how to solved. The new playfield is sitting higher somehow and the display is now too low. The whole thing needs to come up a touch but I’m not yet sure how to beat resolve that. For now, it’s fine. But I’ll need to deal with that soon to call the work complete.
Quoted from OlDirty:Does the playfield have another size or do you shift the playfield "mountings" a bit maybe?
Going to move the display up a touch. I don’t plan to touch the playfield.
Finally started ringmaster disassembly. What a mess of hardened grease buildup. The stainless weldment and chromed neck spring looks great.
Few pics of assembly:
1F4BC8AD-B481-436F-9693-6BEC75C61C23 (resized).jpeg
5B174018-C21C-482B-90C1-309D7FE6F493 (resized).jpeg
BEB5A663-4E79-4F29-B9EC-CCD8A862F748 (resized).jpeg
6AA20DC9-0DFC-45F9-A7D1-DF48911EE7BA (resized).jpeg
FB936A85-E777-4996-976A-61A39BB7C719 (resized).jpeg
6D6002E9-72CD-48D3-9EE3-CDD2F2CC0E50 (resized).jpeg
Takes me some time as I have been off and on working on it due to spending time with family and other projects. And will be running out of things to do until my chrome parts show.
Ultrasonic’d the harnesses today and finished ringmaster assembly pics.
OK. So I had an interesting experience. While I finished the restore on Friday, I haven't played a ton of games. I played more tonight and noticed that the main ramp was clunky. Hard to describe, but it wasn't as smooth as it was in the past and I was getting strange rejects. Turns out that the dimples for the main ramp aren't correct. When I installed it originally it was clear that both dimples weren't possible with my ramp, so I did my best to measure and get the ramp lined up and used the left dimple and ignored the right. This ended up pulling the ramp too far left.
After some careful measurement on the original playfield, I determined that the ramp flap should be closer to the right target than the left target. I was no more than 1/16th of an inch off, but it made a huge difference. I redrilled and moved the ramp and I can't get over the difference.
So, a few things pop out to me. First, it's the first topside issue I had with placement. Second, a 1/16 of an inch is a very small thing to have made that big of a difference, but it did and the shot is so much better now. Imagine how hard it must be to design these things to shoot smoothly when fractions of an inch have that much impact!
dmacy make sure you don't trust the ramp flap dimples and measure from your original before you drill. Maybe my reproduction ramp is a little different, but it was OK on my original PF.
Figured it was worth sharing.
Marc
I am slowly dialing this in! The swap was easier than this part 
Due to the extra clear, all of the switches needed to be adjusted, lots of small tweaks and bends of the metal ball guides to get them back in form after being re-grained.
Slowly but surely, it’s getting closer and closer to being dialed in properly.
Small progress this afternoon. Got the lighting harness installed, soldered and repaired some hacks where needed. Couple more repairs on hacked switch harness and can install that. Sounds like my chrome parts are in progress so hopefully won’t be too long to go.
BD51840B-F225-49BE-AB7E-88CCC67C1C47 (resized).jpeg
4DA9292D-9617-48AE-92EC-94261C0EFB54 (resized).jpeg
1A9B345C-27F1-4AB4-B793-5D0EB126AE38 (resized).jpeg
Thank you again @mschonbrun for the plug. Installed today along with both harnesses.
Going to install some lighting for the back drop areas, Ringmaster drop for when Ringmaster is up, and possibly the ball popper if I can get enough light to make it up and through to be noticeable.
5DA4744D-89E8-405E-801F-FC62AC0F44F1 (resized).jpeg
F9C3E5EE-B65B-4594-AC4B-1E3F6CEC812F (resized).jpeg
91D91FD9-BBB0-4E54-A9B9-EDE2C8B85095 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from dmacy:Thank you again mschonbrun for the plug. Installed today along with both harnesses.
Going to install some lighting for the back drop areas, Ringmaster drop for when Ringmaster is up, and possibly the ball popper if I can get enough light to make it up and through to be noticeable.
The ball pop ups REALLY pop with a Comet 2 led red flex under them. For Ring master look into car "Halo" rings, they come in different colors and sizes and have a nice glow to them, 12v too.
Unfortunately still waiting on chrome to wrap up the playfield but have started on the back box tub and figured it would be worth sharing.
My old tub was solid and nothing major broken. It has the typical yellowing. Originally was just going to clean and paint but was able to pick up a tub months back new and a decal for it.
All the clear plastics are in good shape but installing new ones. I already had the bell mod so it will jurst be getting passed over. A few of the PCB standoff’s that hold the clear plastics to the tub are broken so will be picking some up. Also found a broken coil bracket which I’ll be replacing. This machine has the reinforcement plate for the coil kicker and it must’ve helped as the tub is not damaged there. I’ll be reusing it as well.
Metal parts are tumbling and the harness and plastic parts are in the ultrasonic. Stock speakers have been fine and are staying. The powered sub has been more than adequate for this title for me. Plexi translite is in good nick so will also be cleaned and reused. There were LED’s in already but will likely take advantage of changing them around to all or mostly all cool white 2SMD’s with a light strip or two if needed.
C341ACFF-C4B2-4DF5-B01B-1AAFDDD26A05 (resized).jpeg
925A83C3-0759-4765-910E-4E2FE63FD143 (resized).jpeg
Few pics of removal of parts. The standoff’s looked familiar. 
17241F9C-0233-44D8-8B30-1C296B163DAB (resized).jpeg
70B54866-9E0F-4D84-8FF8-B8A2A5D5E2A5 (resized).jpeg
022F8480-5F1C-4658-B5C2-22A081B63FD4 (resized).jpeg
02E5C692-142A-441D-9C65-3271A33EFF17 (resized).jpeg
16154764-F2B6-46A5-AA25-08996D714B42 (resized).jpeg
Added some lighting to Ringmaster, the popper scoop (this will likely be a waste and not noticeable) and the rear drop area. Rear drop area is testing but also may not be noticeable.
A58E0E3E-737B-4833-BAAA-83AF85180E48 (resized).jpeg
A96E61D8-4784-496A-BA4B-27B03C61E835 (resized).jpeg
5A587526-0E05-48CC-BD49-76A0141DB543 (resized).jpeg
2B277709-057E-49B8-92BE-7451EC3EAE32 (resized).jpeg
D947A947-09E3-4826-A539-057B7B60AF7C (resized).jpeg
5C1A7302-943D-4CF2-9981-D52D79082037 (resized).jpeg
Rear scoop is under the display so it won’t be seen. Game is looking great! Can’t wait to see it all done.
Quoted from pintechev:Rear scoop is under the display so it won’t be seen. Game is looking great! Can’t wait to see it all done.
I knew it going in but was hoping I could have made it stand out anyway. But pointless for me trying.
Have it mostly back together. Big difference being cleaned. Waiting on a few of the 1/2” standoffs to arrive to assemble.
2F421030-C222-4E68-9CD0-19EBC90734AB (resized).jpeg
5A52CCA8-885B-43C3-804A-99B85D390DC6 (resized).jpeg
You must be slacking. I haven't seen a single beer in any one of your photos lately. I might have to drive out there so we can have a talk about your drinking. 
Looks great by the way. I hope I get an invitation to play it one of these days. 
The chrome parts have come so been back at it. The scoop will never even be noticed but it does look nice. Much can be said for the right ramp ball drop.
Spyderturbo007 Here’s the beer shot.
68D2B03E-7336-45E2-B426-5D6A0A502A2D (resized).jpeg
0F185D04-96F5-469B-8B85-960865E5F8C0 (resized).jpeg
88762F8B-FAE9-49BC-8874-74EF88E92FF5 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from dmacy:The chrome parts have come so been back at it. The scoop will never even be noticed but it does look nice. Much can be said for the right ramp ball drop.
spyderturbo007 Here’s the beer shot.
Maybe put a double flex head bulb pointing up under the pf?
Good idea Paul!
@mschonbrun I’m seeing what you said about the display. I took out the SS right side “ball hang up fix” bracket and still caught. Took the whole display set up out and the playfield sits flush. So have to dig into that.
But it’s installed.
CB36332F-F966-4692-BEDC-A6218B7565FE (resized).jpeg
FF0B4C0D-7399-4A80-B6F1-E3B323CE49A2 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pintechev:Strangely, the display plastic does not fit after the swap. Both myself and another guy are having the same problem. Not sure if it’s just a thicker PF or not, but the back sits a little higher and the plastic does not allow the playfield to sit down in the lockdown groove properly.
I’ll have to modify the mount for the the display to accommodate it. For now, the plastic is off
I actually tried just taking the display plastic off but it still was hanging up. So guessing I’ll have to see if it’s the wooden asembly or colorDMD. What was your final fix?
Quoted from dmacy:I actually tried just taking the display plastic off but it still was hanging up. So guessing I’ll have to see if it’s the wooden asembly or colorDMD. What was your final fix?
I enlarged the holes in the bracket that screws into the cabinet to raise the overall DMD higher. It has a little room to go up, and that allowed it to clear once I reinstalled it.
Quoted from dmacy:Good idea Paul!
mschonbrun I’m seeing what you said about the display. I took out the SS right side “ball hang up fix” bracket and still caught. Took the whole display set up out and the playfield sits flush. So have to dig into that.
But it’s installed.
WOW!!! 
Spent a little more time with the Dremel on the block. That helped but then found that the issue is the colorDMD (nothing wrong with it!) sticking out and slightly wedging playfield. I could drill new holes for the studs in the block for the display but want to try some other options first. This confirms the playfield maybe is longer or thicker but will work on making some adjustments to the slide mounts and see what I can sneak out. Will update what was done. Hopefully this is just a case by case situation.
Quoted from dmacy:Spent a little more time with the Dremel on the block. That helped but then found that the issue is the colorDMD (nothing wrong with it!) sticking out and slightly wedging playfield. I could drill new holes for the studs in the block for the display but want to try some other options first. This confirms the playfield maybe is longer or thicker but will work on making some adjustments to the slide mounts and see what I can sneak out. Will update what was done. Hopefully this is just a case by case situation.
Thanks! Let us know what you figure out!
Finally have the display issue taken care of. I ended up opening up the holes of the wooden display mount to allow it to move up the ColorDMD display.
I have a few switches and bulbs to take care of and need to adjust the Ringmaster seated down position but it’s playing and seems to be ok so far. It plays much faster than before. 
B099F28A-9436-4D04-B4CB-02B9BE8D0AC2 (resized).jpeg
EF15EE81-9857-4D56-846B-82FC4721A658 (resized).jpeg
Thanks all. I have one switch not working so need to dig into that but have Ringmaster now adjusted and took care of a few bulbs that needed adjusted in their holders to work. Other than that so far it’s been working great!
I got the tub from EBay. It was the only time I had seen once since I’ve been looking.
Few pics under the hood. Chromed parts, etc.
50FA96D1-630A-4EC1-884D-997BB516879C (resized).jpeg
CC64B9F2-94AD-4CB4-BD99-BBAEEA9B82B0 (resized).jpeg
478DF8A5-D360-4929-B4D2-E42E6ED8DCD9 (resized).jpeg
C104BD8F-EC7E-4BBE-A38B-3492CB43459B (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:I always feel like I should be wearing white gloves when I get to play your games.
No, you don't need to worry about a black light so you don't need gloves. Oh, wait what?! 
I’m having an odd issue which I believed to be a bad opto transmitter on the trough eject. Replacing the boards with new I’m realizing there’s actually another issue. The trough opto eject is working (old and new). As soon as turning on machine the eject coil is popping along with the popper coil like they’re both getting jammed.
Looking in T2 test I’m getting a very fast flashing closed switch 24 (always closed) which isn’t odd. Turn off game and back on and getting it to not act up but as soon as a ball enters trough fast it does the kick out 2 ball issue. Seems like an intermittent opto and T2 testing I’m sometimes getting same very fast flashing switch 31 and 36 which are the trough eject and ball popper.
The fast flashing isn’t something that should be happening is it? My other WPC machines don’t do this on optos in same test. I don’t have another WPC95 to test. Hoping someone has seen this as I don’t want to throw parts at it and not sure if there’s a MPU issue or the 7 opto board issue. Optos on trough and ball popper show working in test.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cirqus-voltaire-refresh-cabinet-and-playfield-swaps/page/3?hl=johncare07 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
St.gallen
Saint Paul, MN
