No.
You cannot use a 3A fuse in a circuit needing 1A. You risk destroying components in the circuit.
If the design is calling for 1A slow blow, then that is exactly what you should source and use.

If you are blowing 1A slow blow fuses, then you need to look for the problem in the circuit. Not sure what game you are working on, but likely that fuse is protecting solenoids. Check your solenoids, and if the solenoids have diodes, check them as well.

#3 1 year ago

???

denzo

Pinside member

Unknown

3y 10,150 48 6

Thanks for your help!
The pin is a Bally Medusa. I have checked all the solenoids (as possible as I can; the seven drop target coil checking is a little bit frustrating due to its location) but seems fine all of them. Next should be the diodes, but I wanted to somehow "trick" the machine, to avoid to desolder all of the wires for testing the diodes. "Trick" means, when I power on the pin, the test initialization will blow the 1A pf fuse. After this, I want to start a game and check one by one the solenoids, which blows the fuse.
Is it safe to replace a fuse "live"? (I think absolutely not, but how can I go on)

#4 1 year ago

MAT

snyper2099

Cincinnati Pinball

16y 103K 7,648

You need a 1AMP thermal breaker. You can source them from a variety of places but in all honestly, I have found the cheapest options for these are ebay. They are very common in boats as well so your local marina supply stores carry them as well.

ebay.com link: itm

If you want the ABSOLUTE BEST ones though, you need to look for aviation breakers made by "AIR PAX". [The vintage smaller ones]. They are hard to track down but they will never break and are made from all metal, no plastic. Here's what a 5 Amp small AIR PAX one looks like: ebay.com link: itm

You just need to solder a blown fuse to the leads. You need to really get it pretty hot so don't get discouraged when you destroy the fuse the first time you try to build one. I have been making these for 20 years and just gave up on all the crap plastic ones and switched to all metal.

AliExpress is the worst. I would suggest never ordering anything on there unless you like things being held up in customs for months and sometimes, never getting what you ordered, or like getting you CC # stolen. If you do actually get the item, it will probably work for about 1 week.

#5 1 year ago

AMR

BigAl56

Pinside+ Frequent

Palatine, IL

7y 64,800 1,658

You're on the right track with your troubleshooting. Next step is to disconnect all coils verifying the fuse does not blow with no coils connected. Then reconnect one at a time until the fuse starts blowing. The 7-target bank is a good place to start as that large coil assembly draws the most power. If the fuse is blowing on initialization this should eliminate the bumpers, slings, and most other coils from consideration as I believe only the drops and saucers are fired on bootup.
If the solenoid connectors were KK type you could easily pull the crimps out and push them back one by one until the fuse blows. Alas, I think Medusa being a newer generation game uses IDC connectors which you do not want to mess with.

#6 1 year ago

???

denzo

Pinside member

Unknown

3y 10,150 48 6

Guys! Thanks!
Thats why I like so much this forum. Over-many helpful people out here!
I will investigate further and keep all of your advices!

So, the solenoids seems fine (due their resistance), the next step will be its diodes check. If all of them okay, whats next? Transistors on SDB?
Just let me clear something: is it possible that all of the coils and its diodes are working, but a transistor not on the SDB? If a transistor going faulty, the connected coils and diodes are not go wrong too?

#7 1 year ago

GPE

G-P-E

GPE

Omaha, NE

13y 76,800 2,778 4

I completely agree with Snyper2099. P&B (now part of TE Connectivity) is a good, reliable brand and the W58 series is an excellent breaker.
We exclusively use Airpax (Sensata) breakers at work. Excellent breakers but are e-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e.
The P&B breakers can be bought from Mouser which has operations in EU:
https://eu.mouser.com/
Search for W58-XB1A4A-1
Check the datasheet on the Mouser page - you can order these with quick connects, screw terminals and several other options.

Stay far away from that generic stuff on AliExpress. You will get 'something' that resembles a circuit breaker and has some sort of rating which may or may not be what is marked.

#8 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,039

OP
Quoted from denzo:
Just let me clear something: is it possible that all of the coils and its diodes are working, but a transistor not on the SDB? If a transistor going faulty, the connected coils and diodes are not go wrong too?

If a driver transistor on the SDB is shorted, it will cause a coil to lock on at power-up and blow the playfield 1A SloBlo fuse. The coil and coil diode could be good. Then again there is usually a reason the driver transistor fails and some times it is from a coil diode going open circuit.

SDB connectors J2 and J5 connect to the playfield coils. If you disconnect one of these connectors at a time before powering up you can narrow down which half of the coils is having the problem.

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