(Topic ID: 49839)

Chrome paint for legs?

By Enzo

10 years ago


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    #1 10 years ago

    I am fixing up a Gottlieb EM for a friend on a budget. The legs were badly rusted, well beyond saving the chrome. I decided to try Dupli-Color "Chrome" spary paint from Walmart. I first sanded the legs with 150 grit. Then cleaned them with lacquer thinner. Next I sanded them with 220 grit.

    After cleaning again, I applied a scratch filling automotive primer I had left over. After sanding smooth with 320 grit, I painted them. Although not as bright a real chrome, they came out surprising well as shown in the pic. For "player" games and/or a budget, it's an option.

    Chrome_piant_legs.jpgChrome_piant_legs.jpg

    #2 10 years ago

    Not bad!

    #3 10 years ago

    Coming from HIM...that's a real compliment!

    #4 10 years ago

    Nice work Enzo.

    #6 10 years ago

    Purrtty..

    #7 10 years ago

    Looks really good. The rusted coin door from my Jungle may get the same treatment.

    Amazing what they can put in a rattle can these days, isn't it?

    #8 10 years ago

    Looks great! Now since you're on a roll you need to do a coin door and coin entrance housing. I just did one on a Grand Slam em that turned out great too. I didn't use chrome but I like the look of your job.

    #9 10 years ago

    Looks real clean man! I love spraying my parts. Saves a ton of money and you can get some great colors. I just found I need to clear them and then let sit for a day or two and be careful for the first few days on the machine so it cures well.

    #10 10 years ago

    Looks good but I hate painting.
    I had good luck with aluminium foil and water. Use it an all legs that I have and it turns out great.

    legs11.jpglegs11.jpg legs23.jpglegs23.jpg

    #11 10 years ago

    What's the total cost...materials, time, etc, for the coin door and coin entrance housing as opposed to sending to Alex. Just wondering...

    #12 10 years ago
    Quoted from spfxted:

    What's the total cost...materials, time, etc, for the coin door and coin entrance housing as opposed to sending to Alex. Just wondering...

    I have done the legs, coin door, shooter housing, lockbar and rails or like $20 or less. Couple cans of paint and some clear spray.

    #13 10 years ago

    Wow...that's good! Is that stuff pretty durable? Does it chip easy?

    #14 10 years ago
    Quoted from spfxted:

    Wow...that's good! Is that stuff pretty durable? Does it chip easy?

    Yes, it chips WAY easier than powder coating.

    Just make sure you clear coat it. I like to use the rustoleum lacquer car clear they sell in spray cans. If you want to be safe then give it a couple days of clear time and then put on machine and still be careful with it for a few more days. It will get super solid after a week or so and even better as time goes on.

    #15 10 years ago

    Hey that looks good. I am going to do the same with a bally chime box and chime bars I need to restore. Good tip!

    #16 10 years ago

    I tried doing something like this a few years ago. I took old legs, sanded them down, sprayed them with Rust-O-Lium (?) and then spray paint. I hung them from a tree. When I spraypainted, the wind shifted and I guess you know what happened next! From now on, I go to Alex. (I'm just not good at this type of stuff)

    #17 10 years ago
    Quoted from cdnpinballer:

    chime bars I need to restore.

    Chime bars usually come out a tumbler real nice , you might want to look into picking one up if you don't already have one.

    #18 10 years ago
    Quoted from Syco54645:

    Looks good but I hate painting.
    I had good luck with aluminium foil and water. Use it an all legs that I have and it turns out great.

    Elaborate please....

    #19 10 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    Looks good but I hate painting.
    I had good luck with aluminium foil and water. Use it an all legs that I have and it turns out great.

    Elaborate please....

    Folks also use aluminum foil and Coca-Cola. You wet the foil and legs with Coke and scrub with crumpled up aluminum foil.

    #20 10 years ago

    Looking good!!!!

    #21 10 years ago

    Really? I never heard of that. I'll have to try that on some rusty legs in the rusty leg pile.

    Does it hold up through polishing?

    #22 10 years ago

    I use Never Dull after that and the polishing does hold up.

    #23 10 years ago

    Interesting... I guess that I have to call it Canadian Chrome now.

    #24 10 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    Really? I never heard of that. I'll have to try that on some rusty legs in the rusty leg pile.
    Does it hold up through polishing?

    Yes... done it for years too. (started on car bumpers, back when they were chrome)

    I use tin foil with dishwashing liquid instead of just water or Coke.

    Nothing obviously beats new chrome or a good powdercoat... but this is a great solution for "player" machines.

    #25 10 years ago

    Soak them in Evaporust, wash with water and dry. Easy

    #26 10 years ago

    looks good, i'm impress.
    if you ever do that again, can you try sanding/finish it with 600/800 grid, i'd be curious to see if it shines more.

    #27 10 years ago
    Quoted from playpin35:

    Soak them in Evaporust, wash with water and dry. Easy

    That is normally what I do. I have a 4in sched 40 pvc pipe about 36in long with rubber end caps permanently filled with a half gallon of Evaporust in my shop. It holds 2 legs at a time. Soak for a day, invert, soak another day remove rinse and polish.

    This aluminium thing is going to be for repairs if I get some really bad ones.

    #28 10 years ago

    Enzo, those actually look pretty nice. I am going to have to give that a shot on one of my machines.

    #29 10 years ago

    Strange, for some reason I can't use the quote button.

    Anyways,

    Quote: "Chime bars usually come out a tumbler real nice , you might want to look into picking one up if you don't already have one. "

    I don't know if that will work for me because the plating on the chime bars is flaking off and they are now rusted. I was going to sandblast and paint. Got me thinking about just dropping them in the tumbler now tho. Tell you what, I'll tumble them for a few days and let you know how it turns out. I tumble with walnut media and some metal polish mixed in.

    #30 10 years ago

    So after reading the tips on here about Aluminium foil, I have to say, I was extremely skeptical.

    However...I did give it a shot. All I can say is wow. I'm both truly amazed, and incredibly thankful for the tip. I'll post pics when I'm done.

    #31 10 years ago

    Painting a chime bar could change the tone it produces. You're encasing the metal in a hard surface that is either going to be rigid (acrylic) or deadening (latex).

    #32 10 years ago

    hummmmmmmmm........ Thanks for the input Chad.

    I think I'll try the tumbler first. Then evaporust if needed.

    Thanks!

    #33 10 years ago

    Nice, that's the best chrome painted result that I have seen.

    #34 10 years ago

    I usually like to use the rust-oleum silver hammerpaint:
    http://www.thehardwarecity.com/products/7213830-Silver-Hammered-Finish-Spray/6013544

    It's not chrome, but I sorta like the duller finish (and it tends to protect pretty good). Chrome seems appropriate if you're restoring older pins (especially EM's), but with everyone powder coating these days, seems like it's better to go with something less shiny on newer pins.

    Nice tips in this thread!

    #35 10 years ago

    Nice work .

    #36 10 years ago

    Duplicolor makes a wheel painting system (chrome, black chrome etc.) With clearcoat that looks great when doing wheels on cars, I have thought about trying it on a set of old legs.

    #37 10 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    I usually like to use the rust-oleum silver hammerpaint

    I really like the finish that paint leaves as well. I have painted some legs with the black color of that paint and they turned out really nice.

    #38 10 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    I usually like to use the rust-oleum silver hammerpaint:
    http://www.thehardwarecity.com/products/7213830-Silver-Hammered-Finish-Spray/6013544
    It's not chrome, but I sorta like the duller finish (and it tends to protect pretty good). Chrome seems appropriate if you're restoring older pins (especially EM's), but with everyone powder coating these days, seems like it's better to go with something less shiny on newer pins.
    Nice tips in this thread!

    For older games I prefer the hammered paint. In general it is a lot tougher than the chrome paints. It is also a lot more forgiving for being painted over nasty old legs and coin doors with rust damage.

    For the chime bars I always scrub them in the sink with Scotch Brite while I am rebuilding the chime unit. They come out looking and sounding great. You can put some car wax on them at the same time to slow the dulling corrosion.

    #39 10 years ago
    Quoted from cdnpinballer:

    Tell you what, I'll tumble them for a few days and let you know how it turns out. I tumble with walnut media

    Yep walnut media is what I use . Haven't really seen plating on chime bars flaking off ( I have seen rusty ones though ) so I'd be interested to see how they come out , keep us posted .ChadTower brings up a good point , painted chimes will sound different.

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