(Topic ID: 240383)

Chime unit problem


By denisn72

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 84 days ago by denisn72
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 months ago

Hi everyone,

I hope to find some help here that I would really appreciate.

I bought a pretty nice Centrigrade 37 a week ago and I noticed that the sound is different. Comparing to the other EM I already have, the sound seems not working properly.

1- The tens chime plunger does not work when the ball hits any 10 points swithches on the playfied but the score reel works great and add the points. It makes a sound only if I touch the rubber with my finger but the sound is not lound but acceptable.
2- The hundreds chime is working properly .
3- The thousand chime works but the sound is really weak and when it is in action, the hundreds chime pluger moves a little at the same time crating a strage sound.
4- I did a test to each plunger by using the 100s wire connected to the tens chime. It works perfectly! When it is connected to the thousands chime it works great too!
5- I cleaned and ajusted the switches (tens relay and thousands relay in the backbox).

I don't have the schematic and looking for it. I really don't know what to next.

Thanks to those who will try to help me solve this problem.

Best regards,

Denis

#2 3 months ago

The nylon tip of the chime plunger is either loose, worn down, or missing.

#4 3 months ago

I recommend servicing the chime unit (unsolder, remove from cabinet, disassemble, clean and polish, reassemble with new piece of foam under the chime plunger, resolder wires).

Not difficult to do and will make the chime unit look and sound like new.

Might want to also adjust the tightness of the nuts on each chime bar as that can affect the tone and duration of the sound. And also confirm that the tiny washers that sit between each chime bar and the body of the chime unit are in place. If not, you can buy new ones from PBR.

Hope that helps!

#5 3 months ago

Good work so far. If you jumped the wire from the 100-pt chime to the 10-pt chime instead, and that then functioned perfectly, then you have eliminated the chime box 10-pt solenoid and plunger from the list of usual suspects.

Perhaps you have a very weak or discontinuous signal to the 10-pt chime solenoid or a poor wiring or solder connection. The N (10-point) relay itself will contain 4 normally open (NO) switches. One of those switches, with a brown/white wire soldered to one switch tab, is responsible to send power to the 10-pt chime solenoid. Is that switch clean and making solid closure of the contact faces when the N relay is energized? If not, adjust that NO switch appropriately and clean the contacts more thoroughly.

It is also possible that the N relay is pulling in weakly and just doesn't make the specific switch close firmly enough. Inspect the N relay while someone else manually closes a 10-pt playfield switch. Is the coil pulling in the relay positively? If not, then likely the 10-pt switches are all dirty or possibly the Jones plugs in the backbox are not clean and seated positively.

Lee

#6 3 months ago

Thanks to KenLayton , currieddog for where to find the schematic, goldenboy232 , and runbikeskilee .

I tried what Lee wrote. That solved the problem. The "N" relay (switches adjustment).

Thanks to all of you again!

Best regards,

Denis!

#7 3 months ago

Denis, Were you able to resolve the 1000-pt chime issue with a similar adjustment, or is that still to be resolved?

Lee

2 weeks later
#8 84 days ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

Denis, Were you able to resolve the 1000-pt chime issue with a similar adjustment, or is that still to be resolved?
Lee

Lee, everything is fine now! It was a similar adjustment with the "L" relay.

Thanks a lot!

Denis!

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