The nylon tip of the chime plunger is either loose, worn down, or missing.

I recommend servicing the chime unit (unsolder, remove from cabinet, disassemble, clean and polish, reassemble with new piece of foam under the chime plunger, resolder wires).

Not difficult to do and will make the chime unit look and sound like new.

Might want to also adjust the tightness of the nuts on each chime bar as that can affect the tone and duration of the sound. And also confirm that the tiny washers that sit between each chime bar and the body of the chime unit are in place. If not, you can buy new ones from PBR.

Hope that helps!

Good work so far. If you jumped the wire from the 100-pt chime to the 10-pt chime instead, and that then functioned perfectly, then you have eliminated the chime box 10-pt solenoid and plunger from the list of usual suspects.

Perhaps you have a very weak or discontinuous signal to the 10-pt chime solenoid or a poor wiring or solder connection. The N (10-point) relay itself will contain 4 normally open (NO) switches. One of those switches, with a brown/white wire soldered to one switch tab, is responsible to send power to the 10-pt chime solenoid. Is that switch clean and making solid closure of the contact faces when the N relay is energized? If not, adjust that NO switch appropriately and clean the contacts more thoroughly.

It is also possible that the N relay is pulling in weakly and just doesn't make the specific switch close firmly enough. Inspect the N relay while someone else manually closes a 10-pt playfield switch. Is the coil pulling in the relay positively? If not, then likely the 10-pt switches are all dirty or possibly the Jones plugs in the backbox are not clean and seated positively.

Lee

Denis, Were you able to resolve the 1000-pt chime issue with a similar adjustment, or is that still to be resolved?

Lee