(Topic ID: 153818)

Chime mod for Spanish Eyes?


By brandsilence

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by brandsilence
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 3 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20160329_225034_(resized).jpg
IMG_20160329_224919_(resized).jpg
00-pins_(resized).jpg

#1 3 years ago

The single chime and bell on Spanish Eyes sounds like dog doodoo. I've read mentions on pinside of adding an additional bell or replacing with a 3 bar chime unit.

I'd really like to install a 3 bar Gottlieb unit like the one that's in my Surf Champ, which sounds LOVELY. A few questions:

1. Is this possible?
2. Anything to be aware of in regard to coils/voltage/etc. I don't want to blow anything up!
3. Spanish eyes only has a single chime and a bell (none for the 10s). I'm assuming that electrically i can follow the same approach as what is already in place for the 100s and 1000s and wire up the 10s. Is this an accurate assumption?
4. If anybody has done this or similar i'd love to hear about it.

Note: i did find this guide about replacing the chime with a bell, but that's not my goal: http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/williams-spanish-eyes-chime-to-bell-mod.4197/

#2 3 years ago

The grit of the plan is simple, the score relays usually supply the signal to ring the bell...bell, chime, etc... all the same to the logic.
coil voltage needs to be the same, or darn close. nope, keep it the same for more reasons than we have time for.
a switch on the score relay, ie, the 10 point relay, sends power to the bell/chime.
look on the schematic for the correct wiring of whats already there, and copy it for all.
it shud be the same for each score relay.
the coils will all share the same common.
the big question...does the score relay for the nonexistent bell have the same switches?
prob not.
in that case, you will need to add a switch to the stack. ha ha, have fun with that.
but that is whutcha needta do.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

The grit of the plan is simple, the score relays usually supply the signal to ring the bell...bell, chime, etc... all the same to the logic.
coil voltage needs to be the same, or darn close. nope, keep it the same for more reasons than we have time for.
a switch on the score relay, ie, the 10 point relay, sends power to the bell/chime.
look on the schematic for the correct wiring of whats already there, and copy it for all.
it shud be the same for each score relay.
the coils will all share the same common.
the big question...does the score relay for the nonexistent bell have the same switches?
prob not.
in that case, you will need to add a switch to the stack. ha ha, have fun with that.
but that is whutcha needta do.

Can't thank you enough for this response. I'm going to spend some time with the schematics tonight and start looking for a used chime box

#4 3 years ago

A switch on the relay is better, but you can also wire the chime coil directly to the coil on the score reel relay. It works.

#5 3 years ago

Thanks for the tip

#7 3 years ago

Thanks, i found a used chime unit and it's on its way. Such a beautiful machine deserves beautiful sounds

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

A switch on the relay is better, but you can also wire the chime coil directly to the coil on the score reel relay. It works.

It works, but now there's a significant additional current draw on that circuit, which could make the score reel operation balky. You should wire a low current, single contact relay to the score reel relay, and have it switch the chime on and off if you don't want to add an extra switch to the score reel relay.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

It works, but now there's a significant additional current draw on that circuit, which could make the score reel operation balky. You should wire a low current, single contact relay to the score reel relay, and have it switch the chime on and off if you don't want to add an extra switch to the score reel relay.

I wired a one point bell for my Royal Guard to the 0-9 unit on that game because the clapper bell associated with the unit never sounded worth a damn. It has had no impact at all on the operation of the unit.

Isn't your solution, wiring a relay to the relay, basically the same thing? Or am I reading what you're proposing incorrectly?

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Isn't your solution, wiring a relay to the relay, basically the same thing?

No. The coil of the relay would draw much less current than the coil for the chime unit would.

#11 3 years ago

I put a second bell into my Spanish Eyes to replace that sickly sounding wooden chime box in the back of the cabinet. Got the assembly from PBR. I put it in the backbox, and just had to extend the wires from the original conficuration, as the coil specs for the new chime was nearly identical. For easy of removal, the wires are on quick connects. Game sounds 100% better in my opinion. Please post pics/video of your chime box setup once you get it installed!

00-pins_(resized).jpg

#12 3 years ago

Will definitely post about it. Will be a couple of weeks before i get to it. In the middle of rebuilding the flippers and all of the pops.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

No. The coil of the relay would draw much less current than the coil for the chime unit would.

Sure, depending on the resistance of the coil you use. But still, it's not drawing so much current that it impacts on the original coil that was already there. These are two low resistance coils so the current draw is pretty high for both, and they work fine.

Either way will work. Just direct wiring it all up is just a shortcut method.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from spiroagnew:

I put a second bell into my Spanish Eyes to replace that sickly sounding wooden chime box in the back of the cabinet. Got the assembly from PBR. I put it in the backbox, and just had to extend the wires from the original conficuration, as the coil specs for the new chime was nearly identical. For easy of removal, the wires are on quick connects. Game sounds 100% better in my opinion. Please post pics/video of your chime box setup once you get it installed!
00-pins_(resized).jpg

Yeah. Now it sounds like a Gottlieb.

#15 3 years ago

Williams bells and Gottlieb bells really don't have much difference between them. Now, if you're talking Williams chimes vs. Gottlieb chimes, that's another deal altogether.

Williams did a lot of things really well. Chimes were not one of them. Their chimes sound like two pipes banging together. Horribly clanky. I put a Gottlieb chime box in a Grand Prix. Strangely, they don't sound quite as good in the GP as they do in a Gottlieb, but they sound a hell of a lot better than the Williams chimes do.

3 weeks later
#16 3 years ago

Finally got around to completing this mod and it sounds GREAT. Totally worth the time/effort/money.

For 100s and 1000s chimes, I replaced the chime switch wiring on the 100 and 1000 point relays with the new wires to the Gottlieb chime. (turquoise and blue wires below). For the 10s I removed the wiring to the match unit (already disconnected by the previous owner) and replaced it with the wire to the new chime.

In the cabinet, I left the old chime alone but clipped the power to that coil and ran it over to the new chime unit.

At some point i’ll have to deal with the 10s chime properly because i plan to put the match unit back into the mix, but the previous owner had already disconnected it so i took the opportunity to use that (currently) non-functioning switch for the chime. Also need to clean up and secure the wiring better.

IMG_20160329_224919_(resized).jpg

IMG_20160329_225034_(resized).jpg

15 second video: https://vimeo.com/160961856

Thanks for your advice, everyone!

#17 3 years ago

I do have a chime unit for sale...$50

#18 3 years ago

love this! Those pops, the chimes, and it plays so much faster than mine. Great job!

#19 3 years ago

Thanks, Boise. I rebuilt the pops and am glad I did. A bit of a chore but makes so much difference!

#20 3 years ago

Wow sounds great and looks FAST! Nice work!

#21 3 years ago

Nice ... Did you mod the pop bumper coils at all... Or just a rebuild?

#22 3 years ago

Just rebuilt with all new parts.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales
700
Machine - For Sale
Brick, NJ
$ 14.00
From: $ 50.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Art Prints
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 179.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
$ 39.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
$ 66.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 129.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 3.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
$ 7,399.00
Pinball Machine
Nitro Pinball Shop
$ 7,499.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball
$ 25.00
Cabinet Parts
Flashinstinct
$ 6,995.00
Pinball Machine
Flip N Out Pinball
$ 189.00
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
$ 89.99
$ 99.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
$ 135.00
Lighting - Led
LED OCD

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside