I just acquired a Chicago Coin TV Baseball that has many problems.

The score motor and animation unit keeps running on power up.

I manually reset the top and bottom relay bank and the problem went away for a time
but of course, it’s happening again.

When I press the replay button Player 2 is immediately activated and the machine completely freaks out.
The 1, 2, 3 “Outs” keeps cycling non stop.

On the backglass a random number will show up for 0 - 9, this may be a match play number?

Maybe the “Player Control and Outs Unit” is not at zero position?

The Player Controls and Outs Unit seems like it wants to move but doesn’t. If engage the coil clockwise and turn on the machine it will advance seven rivets counter clockwise.
The bonus control unit moves on power up.

I’ve activated some relays and at times I’ll get some life in the machine.
I can occasionally pitch and bat and the men ran around the bases too but this lasted a minute.

I made a video (Youtube is still processing it) that'll I'll post later.
The Play Control moves about 4 rivets and the Animation Unit did not move as it did in another video I took.

So happy to finally have a pitch and bat.
This is my first Chicago Coin machine.

I’m waiting on the schematic I ordered although I’m not the best at reading it.

I’d appreciate any help to bring this machine back.

Thank you…

TV Baseball Steppers (resized).jpg

Hey Currieddog,

Thank you for the reply.

Yes, if I hit the replay button the score reels will reset while the other motors are running.

Yes, I can go to Staples and get it scanned.
I'll try to take some schematic pictures to post just in case I'm delayed in getting to Staples.

When my video is fully processed I'll post it to give you an idea of what's happening in the back box.

Again, I really appreciate your reply.

Thank you

Made a bit of progress.

The motor was still running when I decided to shut off the machine and look under the playfield.
I noticed stuck behind the targets were two balls being blocked by some debris. Apparently, there was only one ball in the trough.

I put the playfield back along with the two balls, turned on the machine, the motors moved then stopped. I hit the replay button, the score reels reset and was able to pitch and bat. Initially, one run was added, but the players ran around the bases, bells were ringing and the game was keeping score.

Do all balls have to be in the trough for the game to work?
Is that the solution to my problem?

I think the path the balls travel need a good cleaning, there’s probably 50 years of dirt in the way.

Everything looked promising, then the game just froze with one player running midway to second base. Even if I turn the machine off then on the base runner is still midway to second.

Looking around I noticed the “Lock Relay” was not energized.
Turns out the 15 amp fuse was blown and possibly the 2 Amp Slo Blo which I’m getting mixed readings.
I’ll just place an order for several packs.

I noticed on IPDB, some Chicago Coin games have a Part Catalog and a Manual.
I’ll see if these are available as well.

I’ll update when I replace the fuses.

TV Baseball Fuses (resized).jpg

Just an update:

From my previous post, I was able to play a game when the 15 amp and possibly 2 amp slo blow fuse blew.
The game froze with a runner standing between first and second base.

Just got my fuses today.
Replaced both, turned on the machine, it made a noise and the 15 amp blew again.

I reset both relay banks and replaced the fuse and thankfully it’s still working.

PROBLEM 1, turning on the machine player 1 is lit. When I hit the replay button, it jumps to player 2 and all the motors keep running.
I have to shut off the machine, reset both relay banks and turn the machine on to make the motors stop. But as soon as I hit the replay button it jumps to player 2 and the motors will run again.

PROBLEM 2, when I first turned on the game there was no life in the pitching unit (lock relay is energized.)
I choose a curve ball and nothing.

Any idea why there’s no life in the pitching unit?

Does the game still think I’m playing somewhere when the fuse blew mid-game?

PROBLEM, 3 the left field light is on in the backglass.

Under the playfield I put a business card in-between the relay and it went off.
I’ll adjust it. Still, I want to compare to the center and right relays just to make sure the left field relay is where it should be.

Just tried an an experiment: Reset both relay banks but this time I manually advanced all score reels.
Hit replay and the score reels reset and the motor stopped. But again, when I hit the replay button a second time button, player 2 gets activated and all the motors run.

I took pictures of the schematic and when I can get a chance I’ll go to Staples and get a PDF made.

Thank you for any help you can provide in saving this machine.

TV Schematic 4 (resized).jpg

TV Schematic 3 (resized).jpg

TV Schematic 2 (resized).jpg

TV Schematic 1 (resized).jpg

Another update:

For the left field light staying on problem on the backglass I looked at the relay and all three switches were making contact. Center and Right Field were not making contact so I adjusted the Left Relay switches, so now they’re not making contact. The Left Field light is now off.

I don’t know if that was the reason but now when I turn on the machine and hit replay everything will reset and the motor stops.
Now, the problem is the pitching mech is not energized.

I have some documentation that says the Score Motor and Base Running Animation Unit must be at zero position for the pitching circuit to operate.

This is my first Chicago Coin machine and I’m not exactly sure where zero position is located.

Also, is cam 1 closest or furthest from the unit?

Also that piece of wood beyond the target that leads the ball to the trough became displaced.
I just taped it to keep it in place while I work on the machine.

CRISIS AVERTED: I was blowing the 15 amp fuse on hitting the replay button.
A little research told me no credits on the machine will blow the 15 amp fuse.
And of course, I didn't notice I had no credits on the machine.
Can this machine be put on freeplay?

I noticed, the electrical cord only has two prongs and one of the prongs seems to recess and not fully stick out.
Can this be causing a problem that the pitching unit is not getting enough power?

So the problem still exists, if the Score Motor and Animation Motor maybe are not at zero position to energize the pitching unit.
Can anyone confirm based on these pictures?

TV Pitch Unit Info (resized).pngTV Score Motor (resized).jpgTV Animation Unit (resized).jpg

And the blowing of 15 amp fuses continues along with a runner stopped mid-way between first and second base.

Frustration is setting in.

I could use some help.

Thank you pinballdaveh,

I'm planning on going to Staples tomorrow after work and have it scanned as a PDF.
Hopefully, I can upload it to this thread, or to a cloud drive.

I appreciate the reply.

I'm thinking about manually advancing the score motor and the animation motor unit to find zero position.

The score motor zero position is section A Cam 1.
The animation unit zero position is section A Cam 2.

All switches should be in the open position to stop the motor which would be zero position, correct?

Do you think this is a good idea to try?

I'm sorry, tell me what I'm looking at and what you need me to do?

Along with trying to find the zero positions for the score mode and animation motor I plan on adding scores to both reels and manually moving the credit reel making sure it is not slightly in between numbers.

Sounds good, I'll check them.

So far I've only had to adjust one switch: the left field light was on because the switch was making contact.

I just adjusted all left field switches to be open like the right and center field relays.

Update:

I manually moved the score unit and animation unit to what I thought was zero position, added more credits and added some runs to all four reels.
Turned on the machine and thankfully the 15 amp fuse did NOT blow.

I moved the score and animation unit and turning the machine on they went to what I believe zero position. And again, the fuse held up.

I took a very light flexstone to each switch that controls the pitching unit with no luck.

The score motor zero position is section A Cam 1 SW C.
The animation unit zero position is section A Cam 2 SW B.

The pitching unit is still not energized.
I tested the relay with a 9 volt battery and the relay is good.

With the playfield up I cleaned the cabinet Jones Plugs and pressed down on what I thought was the pitching relay but turned out to be the 15 bat timer. At least it did make a noise and the gear moved but the arm did not come around to pitch the ball. I don’t know if that’s just gravity.
Touching the bat relay will swing the bat.

Before these problems happened, I was able to pitch when the game did work.
I don’t want to go flexstone crazy, but it may be an idea to flexstone the pitching relay.

I can't remember if after hitting the replay button if the pitching relay is automatically energized just waiting for the player to hit a button to choose a pitch?

I was just looking over the schematic and I plan to do that later tonight when I get home from work.

On some of the relays under the play field there's no identifying paper telling me which relay is which.

I know the bat relay and another relay that controls the 15-second pitch motor but I guess I have to look at the colored wires to figure out which is the pitching relay.

Yeah, I plan on doing that later. There are some coils with the same number though I'll just have to see when I have the full schematic in front of me.

You got it!!!

From what I remember the colors are still there so hopefully it'll be easy.

Every time I think I feel a bit comfortable reading schematics I come the realization I’m not.

I’m looking for the score motor zero position is section A Cam 1 SW C.

The animation unit zero position is section A Cam 2 SW B.

It looks like the switches are ordered from top to bottom
A
B
C
D

I just can’t find it on the schematic.
I’m trying to find out if it’s normally opened or normally closed once I turn on the machine.

Do these switches that I'm looking for look correct?
Some of them are curved and I don't know if that's standard on Chicago Coin machines.

I’m sorry, I'm going in a lot of directions and getting myself deeper in confusion so please excuse me.
I'm trying to relate a make break switch from Gottlieb and I'm probably wrong.

I really appreciate your patience...

Animation Motor (resized).jpg

Score Motor (resized).jpg

Pitching Mech (resized).jpg

Pitching Mech 1 (resized).jpg

Wow, I thought it was just the opposite.

I was thinking later tonight after turning on the machine I would slightly turn the animation unit (and possibly score motor) to see if the pitching mech gets energized.

When I press on the pitch replay the 15 second pitch timer motor will move.
I can't remember when I was able to play if the motor is active and audible.
I would think it is because if you don't pitch a ball, the 15 second motor will automatically pitch the ball.

I'm assuming in zero position both score and animation units should be normally closed.
It looks like either way the animation unit has 3 switches so the middle switch is the B switch on the 2nd cam.
I don't believe it's making contact.

I'm considering making an adjustment so it's making contact and hopefully that'll energized the pitching mech.

Okay, something interesting…

I started the machine in a darkened basement.
The “Game Over” relay is facing down and the “Game Over” light in on in the backglass.

I hit the replay button and the relay control arm gets energized and hits the relays in the bank.
The Game Over relay is still down after the control arm is energized.
The “Game Over” light is still on in the backglass.

I lifted the “Game Over” relay and it blew the 15 amp fuse but interestingly on the backglass the “Game Over” light was off and the “Batter Up” pitcher and batter were lit.

Can my problem be with the “Game Over” relay? Hope so...
What switch could be the problem that needs to be adjusted?

Just as a point of reference, the Game Over switches from top to bottom:
Open
Closed
Closed
Closed
Closed
Open
Open

With the machine off I engaged the Game Over relay. All 7 switches changed their state. What was open is closed and what was closed is open.
Game Over Relay (resized).jpg
Game Over Relay 1 (resized).jpg

I'm doing this from memory (working right now) but if you look at the relay bank picture from post 26 you could see the game over in one position and the rest of the relays in a different position.

Turning on the machine I believe the game over relay would drop-down, once hitting the replay button the arm would be energized for a split second to reset the bank and then it would drop down again.

Last night it was in the position it's in now and after hitting the replay button the bank energized and again it dropped in the same position.

Today I tried it and it was stuck in the up position and it blew a fuse.

Touching one of those relays in the game over relay took away the game over light and added a batter up light along with the pitcher and batter light being highlighted.

Is the game over relay and NOT the Score / Animation zero position motor my problem?

Update:

I saw this on the TV Baseball hints list:

“If unit fails to put a man “at bat” the coil located at the top of the base running unit isn’t being energized or is not functioning properly.”

I hooked up two alligator clips to the coil leads and to a 9v battery.
There was no movement at all.
It should have pulled the attached arm.

I tried the same thing on several coils and the relays moved.

I also tried the coil with a multimeter, the number stood at 1 with no continuity.
It seems only when I touched a nearby wire did the number go to 0.

Could it be with all the blown 15 amp fuses, the coil got fried and that’s why the “at bat” function is not enabled?
Does this coil look fried?

I think it may be time to order a new coil.
I guess it's the "At Bat" coil: N24-700 located on the schematic at J-10.
Is that correct?

Screen Shot 2020-08-19 at 12.13.06 AM (resized).pngAnimation Coil with clips (resized).jpgAnimation Coil closeup (resized).jpg

I deleted my post late last night because I was getting different multimeter readings.
I just turned on the machine and yes, the coil was moving the attached arm. So that works.

I know you believe something is not resetting and I believe you're right, but also, if that's not the answer, do you believe since the “at bat, pitcher/batter” light comes on when I lift one of the switches the problem is in the game over relay?

When you've asked me to confirm if the circuits are working, based on looking at the schematics, I feel lost.
Can you tell me exactly what to do to confirm they are working?

In Post 12, I see the player unit, then 4 drums (score reels, they do reset to 0)

Funny when I first got the machine despite some abnormalities I was able to play an occasional game .

I believe the game does reset.
I usually advance the score reels before turning on the power.
When I turn on the power, the score motor, animation motor, reels will turn and come to a position I can only assume is home.

But of course, now, I just went in the basement and put in a quarter (usually just hit the replay button to start)
and the score/animation/bonus unit all move non-stop.

The player control unit doesn’t move.

I went to the main relay bank and all the relays were dropped down (see photo with Game Over relay down)
All the relays were down.
I lifted all of them up except the game over relay.

Turned on the machine, hit the replay button and the motors stopped as they should.

Even though you’re not familiar with Chicago Coin schematics I can't tell you how much your help is appreciated.
Funny, today my wife asked me if CurriedDog responded to my post.
You ARE making an impact.
So many great people on this site and in this community.

Do you think the player control unit is a problem?
A while back I advanced the stepper to eventually get to player 1 with no outs.
Maybe it was a bit stuck. So I can only guess it’s okay.

The problem is the Game Over light is on after the replay button is hit.

The “At Bat/Pitcher/Batter” light should be on and the pitching mechanism should be energized. They are not.
If I lift one of the switches in the game over relay, the “At Bat/Pitcher/Batter” light will come on and the game over light will go off.

I'm not well versed to know if the problem is something not resetting or some switch in the game over relay.

Main Relay Bank (resized).jpg

I tried a couple of miscellaneous things tonight with the Game Over relay.

When the Game Over relay is dropped down (like in previous photos), it is energized.
It is always in that position (turning on the machine and after hitting the replay button) and the Game Over light is ALWAYS on.

The Game Over Relay:

Making the number 2 switch normally open will make the Game Over light will go out.

Making the number 6 switch normally closed will light the “batter up, pitcher, batter.”
Also, two players are on bases, 2nd and 3rd base.
The Game Over light stays on.

Making number 7 switch normally open will light the “batter up, pitcher and batter with runners on 2nd and 3rd base.
The Game Over light stays on but the 15 amp fuse blows a couple seconds later.

When I start the game WITH advancing the score reels, the game and fuse is good
The Game Over relay is always energized so the Game Over light is always on.

Now, when I start the game WITHOUT advancing the score reels, the game jumps to Player 2 and I blow a fuse.

After activating the animation reset there was only one runner on second base.
The runner on third base was not there.

If not having a full reset is the problem, could that be the reason the game is not resetting because there is already a man on base?

Thank you PinballDaveH,

I'll check for that later tonight when I get home from work.

If there is no short, do you believe since when I opened switch 7 a player was still on the base paths it could mean that the machine thinks the game is still running and that's why it's not fully resetting?

I appreciate your help, thank you again.

There are two stepper units on the door.

The top one is the bonus unit that will move when I power on the machine. The one below I believe is the player and outs unit.

This one will not move when I power on the machine. If I manually advance it five or six rivets and turn on the machine it will go back to that original rivet one position.

I'm testing ALL the colls right now. I'll make a post as soon as I'm finished.

I just tested ALL coils in the machine.

Multimeter set to ohms with the number 1 in the display.

With all coils I was able to get a 0 reading.
Sometimes I had to fiddle with the proper position but it did go to zero if even for a moment.

I advanced the Player/Out unit 7 rivets.
Turned on the machine and nothing happened.
I hit the replay button and the motors ran for quite a bit but eventually they stopped and the Player/Out unit went back to its original position.

I've included photos of the gears for the Player/Out Unit and the Bonus Unit (very greasy)

Unfortunately, still no life in the pitch unit.
Player Unit Gears (resized).jpgBonus Unit Gears (resized).jpg

The lower middle blade stays open when it's on the first rivet. (Home position?)

Every rivet after (2-7) it is closed.

How do I adjust the spring to test if it's correct?
IMG_20200822_214011299.jpg

IMG_20200822_214527771.jpg

The motor does go back to the home position assuming that rivet one is home position.

Are you saying I would be able to power the pitching motor with alligator clips?
My clips are not long enough.

Do you still think the machine not powering the pitching mech is because it's not fully resetting?
Where should we look next?

I'm just about heading out for work.
I'll do everything when I get home later tonight.

I think I'll even take a video of the door motors and the animation motor along with taking pictures of the pitching unit.

Okay, the pitch relay had two blades that were touching. I put two pieces of business cards between them.

I turned on the machine and raised the latch. It only made a buzz.

I manually advanced the reels and hit the replay button. The score reels reset. I lifted the latch and it buzzed again.

I did see some sparks in the game over relay.

The 15 amp fuse did not blow.

Previously, if I would raise the latch after hitting the replay button the 15 amp fuse would blow.

The game over relay did not latch. it stood in its drop-down energized position.

The game did do a full reset.

Would you like to see a video of the motors on the door and the animation motor in the back box?

IMG_20200823_193908443.jpg

IMG_20200823_193918484.jpg

IMG_20200823_195000344.jpg

I still have the business cards in the pitching relay. I wasn't sure if you wanted me to take them out.

The lock relay is now at normally open after hitting the replay button.

When I power on and even after hitting the replay button starting at the top the switches for the start relay are:

1 - NO
2 - NC
3 - NO
4 - NO
5 - NO
6 - NO
7 - NO
8 - NC

The start relay drops down and gets energized changing state.
The latch hits it back up.

I’ve looked all around the machine and even the schematic but I can’t find the tilt relay.
The machine does have a tilt bob near the coin mech.

UPDATE: just saw to tilt switch and the bottom of the cabinet. Going to test it now

Tilt switch is open. I closed it but had no effect on the game. The game did not tilt.

Here is a video of the animation motor after powering on the machine, then hitting the replay button.

Also a video of the Relay Latch buzz after hitting replay with business cards still in pitching relay.

Start relay (resized).jpgUnder Playfield Relays (resized).jpg

Yes, the unit does have red paint marks.

Honestly, I didn't even notice it. I put two pieces of tape to what I thought was 0 position.

It seems near the red paint mark there's some dirt on the wiper rivets that I'll with a Scotch-Brite pad.

Also, the switch on the gear side looks to be greasy. You think that could be causing a short?

I'll test everything later tonight.

IMG_20200824_084512939.jpg

Are you referring to the gear side blade?

I forgot to mention last night with the playfield up I touched the curve and slider relay and the pitching arm did come around and pitched a ball.
I was glad at least there's life in the pitching mechanism.

Off to work...

I'm also going to clean the blades and gear from all that excess grease that may be causing problems.

It seems like no matter what I do that game over light is still on in the back glass. But I feel like we're getting closer and making progress.

Funny how I was able to pitch and bat before all these problems.

Can't wait to get home and try your suggestions.

I just want to make sure.

You want me to desolder the red wire that's on the right blade of the game over relay?

So you believe the problem is the game over relay is not latching in the up position?

IMG_20200824_194806876.jpgIMG_20200824_194817685.jpg

Okay, gonna check it out right now...

Again, sorry I don't want to mess up.

Do you mean the wire that looks green at it's end?

It's covered in plastic.

IMG_20200824_201131190.jpg

Okay, here we go, get back to you soon.

Nothing changed at all.

I desoldered the top wire, the game over light is still on in the back box.

The game over did reset as it always does but it didn't latch on.

It still dropped down energized.

IMG_20200824_204208820.jpg

I blocked the lower last switch that was attached to the red wire.

It blew the 15 amp fuse. This has happened before when I have separated it to normally open.

The lock relay is in the open position energized.

IMG_20200824_215509472.jpg

Sorry, can you be more specific?
Are we talking about the game over latch with the start relay or the opposite side?

Wire resoldered.

Here is the plum tilt.

Main relay
(1st shot, 2nd player 100 light, 1st player 100 light, 2nd coin, game over, start)

IMG_20200825_001017077.jpg

IMG_20200825_001203633.jpg

IMG_20200825_001212466.jpg

That picture is deceptive, it's actually in the middle not touching anything.

Just a quick question: the small blade I resoldered, can that be measured with a multimeter?
I just tried it and it didn't register a thing.

Okay, I'll do it later tonight, leaving the house soon.

I believe I still have the business cards in the pitch relay, is that correct?

About that blade I resoldered, can that be measured with a multimeter because it didn't register a thing?

Awesome!!!

You certainly know your stuff.
You must have logged a lot of hours learning about pinball repair.

I'm so impressed with so many people on this site.

Such a great resource for people who love pinball and want to save these machines.

I'll let you know what happens later tonight.

Are we still looking at the player unit or the game relay?

Because looking at a picture of the game over relay I don't see the gray black wire.

I'm not in front of the machine so I'm relying on photos from my phone.

If it is the game over relay can you tell me which one it is?

1 or 2

IMG_20200824_194806876~2.jpg

I'm sorry, I still don't get it.

Is it the number 1 or the number 2 that I have written on the photo?

I know you said near the orange wire but all I see are two white wires.

Should I be looking for this gray black wire on the stack?

I'm at a loss just looking at photos.

I'll get a better look when I'm in front of the machine later tonight.

Before I do a major screw-up I just want to go over what needs to be done.

I'm looking at the coil that energizes the latch right next to the main relay bank that has game over and start.

Looking straight down on the coil closest to the door (1) it looks like it's red blue with a tan wire.

The other wire (2) is tan and it looks just blue.

I'm assuming you want me to unsolder number 2 because I don't recall any mention of red being in the wire.

Please just confirm what number I need to unsolder.

IMG_20200825_190204464~2.jpg

IMG_20200825_185957930.jpg

Okay, I think I got it.

It's this gray wire that's attached to the lowest switch in the game over stack.

Every time I separate the switch to make it normally open it blows the 15 amp fuse.

You want me to desolder that wire and NOT touch the yellow wire....correct?

IMG_20200825_194230363~2.jpg

I'm having difficulty trying to desolder this wire. I'm coming at it from an awkward angle underneath.

Generally, to do this do you recommend loosening the nut and two screws removing the stack?

Bad idea, I have to loosen the screws up from the stack and that's going to present a whole nother problem. Any recommendations on how to do this properly or what angle?

IMG_20200825_201141540.jpg

I'll try, but the wire is at the very bottom of the stack.
My concern is burning other wires or desoldering the yellow wire as well.

I'll give it a shot...this could take some time.

Okay, I desoldered that wire.

I hit the replay button and the latched energized. The game over DID catch.

It did not drop down like it always does.
The game over light in the back box is out also.

But of course the 15 amp fuse did blow.

IMG_20200825_210227502.jpg

Okay, I bent back those lugs and I separated the wires A little better. for display purposes I put some white paper behind it so you can get a better idea of the separation.

I just want to clarify what I need to do next.

On the lower switch that I desoldered I'll put an alligator clip from there but I'm not sure where you want me to put the other end (player unit that I desoldered then resoldered)?

Just realized, I'll put the alligator clip on the blue/black lug and to the game over blue/black lug.
You said unsoldered twice and that threw me off.

I'll attach the alligator clip from blue/black to blue/black.
IMG_20200825_223241982.jpgIMG_20200825_223612770~2.jpg

Disappointed, it didn't work.

I attached an alligator clip from the lowest switch I desoldered on the game over relay and the other end on the lower blue/black lug on the player unit.

After hitting replay, the latch was energized and the game over relay dropped down again and the game over light appeared in the backbox.

Just in case I made a mistake I tried a couple things. I attached an alligator clip from the game over lug that I desoldered to the wire I desoldered with no luck.

I then attached an alligator clip from the game over wire I desoldered to the lower lug of the player unit (it doesn't look blue black. It looks green)

After hitting replay the game over did latch on but of course it blew the 15 amp fuse again.

Is this the correct way it should be?
(By the way, that's just tape to separate the wires)
IMG_20200825_233119438.jpg

It looks like the lug fifth from the right is a match.
At least I'm hoping it's a match.

So you want me to unsolder that fifth lug put the alligator clip on the lug and attach it to the wire I desoldered (lowest switch) at the game over relay, correct?

Couldn't fall asleep last night so I think I'm going to get to it a little bit later.
Just wanted to check if I got a response from you.

Get back to you later.

IMG_20200826_085341572~2.jpg

IMG_20200826_085710631.jpg

Just to make sure because I think I might've done this wrong.

I desoldered the 5th wire from the player/outs unit.
I then put the alligator clipper from that 5th lug to the lowest game over lug.

Turning on the machine the 15 amp immediately blew.

Or, did you mean to attach the alligator clips to the game over wire and game over lug?

I'll try this now. 5th desoldered and powering the machine and replay.

I have to run out later for more 15 amp fuses.

Just tried it with 5th lug desoldered and 15 amp fuse immediately blew.

I have to run out later and get more fuses I've gone through a ton.

game over relay was previously in the up position. Before when I would turn on the machine the lug with drop-down.

Good to know, thank you.
I'll go to Home Depot anyway later, nice sunny day today.

Any ideas what to do next?

I'll check this out later after I get the fuses from Home Depot.

Does it make sense to just remove the tilt rod altogether?

I really appreciate your help and especially your patience.
Pinsiders on this thread have been awesome!

Get back to you later tonight.

Okay, something positive.

I put business cards in the top switch and second lowest from bottom (6th switch) turned on the machine and hit replay.
The latch energized and the game over relay DID latch on and more importantly the fuse did NOT blow.

On the screen it says "Batter Up" and the batter is lit along with a runner on second base (did animation unit not reset)?

I turned off the machine then on.
Normally, the game over relay would drop and energize before hitting the replay button.
I tried hitting the replay button but the game would not start.

I manually dropped the game over relay before turning on the machine.

I hit replay and the latch caught again and the fuse did not blow.

Do you believe we went to 1 Lowes and 3 Home Depot before finding a lone pack of 15 amp fuses...oh well...

It was nice not blowing a fuse for a change.

TV Batter Backglass (resized).jpg

I did everything you asked (removed wiper, raised game over relay latch) but the relay did not drop down after turning on the power and didn't latch after touching the 5th lug wire. It didn't do a thing.

Silly silly question, was I supposed to hit the replay button after turning on the machine?

I'm guessing yes, but It wasn't really implied in your last message so I didn't do it. I didn't want to take a chance of causing any damage.

After removing the wiper I touched the 5th lug wire to the 5th lug with no reaction.

I even tried touching the game over wire to its lug with no reaction.

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Okay, it looks like it's an off-white wire going to this single rivet on front at around the four o'clock spot marked off with some tape.

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I pushed the relay latch up, blocked the rivets with a business card and touched the unsoldered wire to 5th lug of the player out unit.

Turned on the machine, the game over relay did not drop down.

I got no life in the latch.

I tried touching the unsoldered wire from the game over relay and got no life as well.

I am getting a spark when I advance to the third rivet. Itdid move something in the game over relay because that piece of paper that is still between the blades did jump.

I don't know if this is anything but the fifth of rivet does have a bit of a notch in it. also, it seems there's a little hole in between 2 rivets.

I'm out of the house now so I'm doing all this from memory.

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Turning on the machine the game over did drop down but manually lifting the latch it did not catch.
I tried lifting it again and of course I blew a fuse.

It didn't latch.

If I raise the latch and go through the rivets, the fuse will probably blow.
I have gone through almost 25 15amp fuses.

Started to reset, then blew a fuse.

The business cards are not in the game over relays.
I will put them back.

As soon as I lift the game over relay and turn on the power, it will drop down.

Can you tell me if having a baserunner on second base means the animation unit is not fully reset?

Sorry for the delay, got sidetracked by something over here.

Just did a resistance test. The display did read zero.

I don't see a single wire on the pitching motor. I've included three pictures.

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I have to look around to find a reset coil.

So you're asking me to find the reset coil wire try to follow it to the score motor then clean that switch on the score motor?

I've clean score motor switches before with a very light flextone.

I still didn't find a single wire that is going to the motor. There are two wires that are going to the motor. I have them labeled in the photos below. I'd rather use business cards to isolate all the switches instead of unsoldering one.

I'm getting ready for work so anything you need me to do I can do later tonight.

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Sounds good, I'll unsolder that number 2 wire later tonight when I get back home.

I find it much easier to label things where you can just tell me what number to take action on.

It eliminates some of the guesswork on my part.

Okay, pitching motor wire number 2 is unsoldered.

I did a test with a multimeter and it did read 0.00 in the display.

The two business cards are blocking two switches in the game over relay.

Also, 5th lug on the player out unit is still unsoldered.

I resoldered lug number 5.
I did as you asked with the player/out unit and turned on the machine.

The game over latch originally was down. I raised the latch and the game over relay DID latch and did NOT drop down.

I removed the top business card, raised the relay bank. And again it DID hold.

I removed the bottom business card and the game over relay DID drop down.

I raised the relay bank but the game over relay did NOT hold.

The back glass says game over.

I didn't hit the replay button.

Just about heading out of the house so I'll check out everything later tonight.

With the pitch motor, when it shows 0.00 that means there's a proper connection.
If it stays at 1, that means there's a problem.

When I energized the curve/slider relay the motor did work, wind and pitch the ball.
Sorry, but I don't understand how it could be the motor.

I find that so amazing that you can piece all of that together.

That orange lug you mentioned, that would be the one I had labeled as number two in that photo, correct?

I've certainly got my hands full when I get home later tonight.

Here's a picture of the lock relay. The top switch wire looks green in the picture but it's a lot darker in person. It looks like it is blue can really see much of the black though if it's even there. I see some black spots but I don't know if that's just dirt.

The yellow wire attaches to the third switch from the top on the start relay, from there it looks like a another yellow wire from that third switch crosses over to the first top switch of the second coin relay.

Blue black and yellow wires from the game over relay are unsoldered.

I connected the game over relay coil lug to the orange wire.
I latched the game over relay.
Turned on the machine and touched the unsoldered blue/black wire.
The 15 amp fuse immediately blew.

Should I try it again with the game over latch down so the game over light is on in the back box?

I'll wait to see what else you think I should do.
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I just realized in one of your previous messages you wanted me to unplug the Jones plug.

I did not unplug the Jones plug.

The blue black and yellow wires from the game over relay are unsoldered.

And I think I might have misinterpreted some of your instructions.

Did you want me to unsolder the blue black plug from the Jones plug?

Hey Dave, I'm sorry to beat a dead horse but I still don't understand how the relay coil is bad and the pitch motor is bad.

On my multimeter when I test fuses or anything I have it set to ohms. There is a number 1 in the display. If I touch the leads it goes down to 0.00.
That means the fuse is good.

I just tested both coils and they went to 0.00. I also tested the pitch motor and that also went to 0.00, so I don't understand why you think they're defective. Can you please explain?

I took some pictures of the Jones plugs. It looks like from the top set of Jones plugs the one labeled number 1 should be it.

I unscrewed the bracket to flip it over and it's the only one in the Jones plugs that only has one wire soldered to it. The rest have two wires.

Is this correct?
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Okay, I think I get what you’re saying, still a lot of it is Greek to me.
I’ll take a look at the Jones plug underneath and post the pictures.

The 1 & 2 are just pictures of the relay bank coils that I tested.

Let me check the Jones plugs for the blue/black wire…

Here's a picture of the lower Jones plug. It looks like the third lug doesn't have anything soldered to it but the wire above it doesn't look blue black, it looks black tan.

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Sounds good, heading out now, will do it later tonight and post results.

My multimeter only has leads.
I used an alligator clip to clip the top wire of the plum tilt.

I clipped that to the black lead of the multimeter.
With the red lead I touched all the male Jones plugs in the cabinet.

The multimeter stayed at 1 and did not move to 0.

I also put the clip on the lower wire of the tilt plumb tilt with the same results.

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I don't know if if this changes anything but I tried the same testing to the female Jones plugs.

On the bottom female Jones plugs 3,4,8,11 gave me a 0 rating.

On the top female Jones plugs 2,5,6,7 gave me a 0 rating.

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I'll try that later tonight when I get home.

Just to make sure, do I have the multimeter setting correct and the machine is still unplugged?

Will do...

Okay, it looks like I found the mail Jones plug that reads 0 on my multimeter(wire is attached to plumb tilt)

It's on the second unplugged Jones plug in the picture and it seems to be the right color.

Also, it looks like there's a bit of corrosion at that plug.

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I previously did a test on all the Jones plugs and that third plug from the bottom was the only one that gave me a 0 reading from both those Jones plugs.

I think you wanted me to move the alligator clip from one part of the tilt plum to the other green tilt plumb wire.

I did test the Jones plugs in the back box and the top left plug was the only one that gave me a 0 reading.

I put the lead in the plug hole just so I could take a picture of the 0 reading.

Do you have any opinion on the corrosion on that third plug that could be causing a lot of the problems?

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When you said
"Another resistance test. With machine unplugged"

I didn't know if you wanted me to touch the hold relay switch leads or the hold relay coil leads.

I did everything else you asked and only got a number 1 meter reading for the remaining wires.

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Just tried urning on the machine with the game over relay in the up position so the game over light does not show up on the screen. It immediately blew a fuse.

I replaced the fuse and tried it with the game over relay in the down position so it says game over in the back box as it should. I hit the replay button and it also blew a fuse.

Good thing I was able to track down four packs of 15 amp fuses at Home Depot today.

There was a man in between first and second base. I manually advanced the score wheels turned on the machine and the animation motor moved a bit I believe clearing the runner off for a reset.

I hit the replay button, the score reels went back to zero and the fuse blew again

Good to hear from you Howard and thank you for the suggestion.

I'm such a stickler for making sure there are no errors in my posts.
I'm attributing it to the trauma of my machine not working that caused my mistake...are you buying that?

Of course, any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

I put the two test leads into the lock relay holes where the wires are nearly soldered. It only registered a 1.

If I move the test leads around a bit the numbers were jumping very high from the mid-twenties to high eighties at times.

After hooking the alligator clips to the white wire and touching the individual green wires I got a 0.8 reading on both of them.
The two black wires that are already soldered from the lock relay just gave me a 1 reading.

I noticed the board under the coil is not solidly attached like the other coils. You can move the board out quite a bit where most of it is not under the coil. The wires though, are still attached. (See picture)

Could that be a big problem?

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Shall I have the game relay in the up position or the down position with the game over relay light in the backglass?

I started the machine with the game relay in the down position. Turned on the machine and hit the replay button.

The game reset, the main relay bank energized and promptly blew a fuse.

Will either of these circuit breakers will do, or is one preferred over the other?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/CMB-103-11C3N-B-A/?qs=ZxoYUWRuLON4N9V2ZXbdCQ%3D%3D
(currently none in stock)

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/W57-XB7A4A10-10/?qs=wvf%252bmaPDr9PlDs%2FGzbJzaA%3D%3D
(currently 1671 in stock)

"Chances are slim, but would you happen to be in Upstate N.Y.? "

Hey Mopar,

Thank you for joining the conversation. No, I'm based in New Jersey.

I'll disregard those circuit breakers.

PinballDaveH,

I'll try that later tonight when I get home from work.

Bulls Eye Baseball was on my short list of pitch and bats to get along with Home Run and TV Baseball.

Thank you Dave, I'll take a look at it.

I know you've gone over it before but I still don't understand how if I manually activate the slider and curve relay the motor does work, the arm comes around and can actually pitch a ball.

How that could be defective?

Are you saying the relay coil is also defective?

I'm really sorry if I don't fully grasp what you're saying so I hope you understand.

Would this be the correct part to order:

https://www.jameco.com/z/35-2115-BU-GC-Electronics-Circuit-Breaker-15A-250VAC-2-Pin-Bulk_621430.html?CID=MERCH

So basically, I solder a 15 amp fuse to the leads, then simply plug it into the machine like I normally do with a fuse?

The green wire is located on the second switch from the top of the game over relay.

It is connected to all of the other relays on the main relay bank accept the "first shot" relay.

The other wire on the opposite lug is tan green (see picture in front of paper.). I'm assuming you're referring to this tan green wire when you say the non grey wire?

I'll take the schematic and go through the coil list. It's going to take a while so I don't anticipate me finishing tonight.

Also, is that circuit breaker from that link the correct product I should order?

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