(Topic ID: 274781)

Chicago Coin TV Baseball Freak Out (1966)

By Macca

3 years ago


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  • 267 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Macca
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    There are 267 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 6.
    #151 3 years ago

    On the male jones plug our found grey/black needs to be unsoldered from the female pin.
    Tape up wire end and set aside. This eliminates the plumb tilt and it’s cabinet wiring from causing any short problems.
    Reinstall jones plugs.
    Unsolder the 2 grey/black wires but keeping them soldered together from the lock relay switch top lug. This keeps the lock relay from pulsing the game over relay when machine is turned on.
    Another resistance test. With machine unplugged.
    Connect jumper lead end to the green wires connected to the lock relay switch lower lug. Connect other end of jumper to black test lead.
    With red test probe touch the 2 grey/black wires that were just unsoldered, next move the red probe to the 2 unsoldered wires from the game over relay switch, test each wire individually. Is there any zero ohm 0.00 readings from any of the 3 wires tested?

    #152 3 years ago
    Quoted from pinballdaveh:

    On the male jones plug our found grey/black needs to be unsoldered from the female pin.

    Do you mean the lower number 3 wire or the top number 1 wire I have the red lead sticking in?

    #153 3 years ago

    The lower number 3 is the female. You might have to unscrew it from the board or move the harness to get to it.

    #154 3 years ago

    When you said
    "Another resistance test. With machine unplugged"

    I didn't know if you wanted me to touch the hold relay switch leads or the hold relay coil leads.

    I did everything else you asked and only got a number 1 meter reading for the remaining wires.

    IMG_20200902_220306575.jpgIMG_20200902_220306575.jpgIMG_20200902_220732987.jpgIMG_20200902_220732987.jpgIMG_20200902_221441450.jpgIMG_20200902_221441450.jpg
    #155 3 years ago

    You’ve done everything correctly. Touch red lead to the 2 wires that you unsoldered off of the lock relay switch. If reading is 1 also remove jumper wire and meter.
    Trip game over relay latch. Turn on machine.
    Push replay button, check if machine Resets properly.
    The pitch buttons might work to pull in the pitch relay, but it’s the pitch motor cam that needs to turns to release the selected Pitch relays. You can try putting a business card in the Pitching unit bottom switch in between the bottom 2 closed blades. That might keep the relays from staying closed after trying to pitch.

    #156 3 years ago

    Just tried urning on the machine with the game over relay in the up position so the game over light does not show up on the screen. It immediately blew a fuse.

    I replaced the fuse and tried it with the game over relay in the down position so it says game over in the back box as it should. I hit the replay button and it also blew a fuse.

    Good thing I was able to track down four packs of 15 amp fuses at Home Depot today.

    There was a man in between first and second base. I manually advanced the score wheels turned on the machine and the animation motor moved a bit I believe clearing the runner off for a reset.

    I hit the replay button, the score reels went back to zero and the fuse blew again

    #157 3 years ago
    Quoted from Macca:

    Good thing I was able to track down four packs of 15 amp fuses at Home Depot today.

    Get one of these: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Electrical_short_troubleshooting_Fuse_helper

    Quoted from Macca:

    Just tried urning on the machine

    You left out the 2 letters "at". (Couldn't resist!!)

    #158 3 years ago

    Good to hear from you Howard and thank you for the suggestion.

    Quoted from HowardR:

    You left out the 2 letters "at". (Couldn't resist!!)

    I'm such a stickler for making sure there are no errors in my posts.
    I'm attributing it to the trauma of my machine not working that caused my mistake...are you buying that?

    Of course, any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

    #159 3 years ago

    For the fuse to blow immediately upon turning on machine a coil short is probable. The lock relay immediately pulls in and stays pulled in as long as the machine is turned on.
    Unsolder the white wire from its coil. Tape and set aside.
    Do a resistance test on the coil. Is it 0.00 ohms?
    Next Resistance test, connect Black test lead to white wire just unsoldered and the other lead to the green wires on the lock relay switch. What is the reading?

    #160 3 years ago

    I put the two test leads into the lock relay holes where the wires are nearly soldered. It only registered a 1.

    If I move the test leads around a bit the numbers were jumping very high from the mid-twenties to high eighties at times.

    After hooking the alligator clips to the white wire and touching the individual green wires I got a 0.8 reading on both of them.
    The two black wires that are already soldered from the lock relay just gave me a 1 reading.

    I noticed the board under the coil is not solidly attached like the other coils. You can move the board out quite a bit where most of it is not under the coil. The wires though, are still attached. (See picture)

    Could that be a big problem?

    IMG_20200903_190457951.jpgIMG_20200903_190457951.jpgIMG_20200903_191033634.jpgIMG_20200903_191033634.jpg
    #161 3 years ago

    The cracking of the board is from extended heat generated from the coil. What I think happened was the lock relay coil resistance got to low and might have shorted just before the coil opened or broke a winding wire.
    Time to risk a fuse. Turn on machine and test it’s functions

    #162 3 years ago

    Shall I have the game relay in the up position or the down position with the game over relay light in the backglass?

    #163 3 years ago

    I started the machine with the game relay in the down position. Turned on the machine and hit the replay button.

    The game reset, the main relay bank energized and promptly blew a fuse.

    #164 3 years ago

    Thks for the reminder Howard-finally got round to it!

    canon04092020 009 (resized).JPGcanon04092020 009 (resized).JPG

    #166 3 years ago

    There’s still a problem with the switched section of the wiring.
    One of the game over relay switches will have a green wire on it. The wire leaving the switch I think is grey we will call the switched common wire. Looking at the schematic ( mine is still not sharp enough to be positive) near upper left you will see this game over relay switch.
    This switch feeds a row of 29 coils and 1 pitching motor that any can be suspect of blowing the fuse and each needs to be tested .
    The resistance test I want done is clipping jumper wire on to black lead, Clip the other jumper end to the non grey switched common wire lug to the first coil on the list.
    Each coil tested will be 2 tests.
    With the machine unplugged and game over relay latched down to keep the green wire from interfering with the tests,
    1st part touch red probe to grey common wire, take reading.
    2nd part touch red probe to white wire unsoldered from lock relay coil, take reading.
    Do this test the same way for every coil down the list.
    Any unusual findings?

    #167 3 years ago

    Neither of those is correct. Those show 10 amp, you need 15 amp.

    #168 3 years ago
    Quoted from pinballdaveh:

    Those show 10 amp, you need 15 amp.

    Just like to mention that a 15A breaker would be best, but I have a 5A and 10A and actually
    the 10A holds up in a 15A circuit as long as there's no problems in the circuitry.

    Quoted from Macca:

    The game reset, the main relay bank energized and promptly blew a fuse.

    Like pinballdavek said, as soon as the G.O. Relay resets, the fuse blows.
    A couple/3 years back I went through a Bulls Eye Baseball that was problematic.
    Chances are slim, but would you happen to be in Upstate N.Y.?

    IMG_1091 (resized).JPGIMG_1091 (resized).JPG
    #169 3 years ago

    I love that center ramp feature. Does it operate on a 2 coil catch and release mechanism similar to the round ball saver mechanism used in pinball machines in between the flippers?

    #170 3 years ago

    "Chances are slim, but would you happen to be in Upstate N.Y.? "

    Hey Mopar,

    Thank you for joining the conversation. No, I'm based in New Jersey.

    I'll disregard those circuit breakers.

    PinballDaveH,

    I'll try that later tonight when I get home from work.

    Bulls Eye Baseball was on my short list of pitch and bats to get along with Home Run and TV Baseball.

    #171 3 years ago

    I checked on the jameco site, they stock the 15 amp circuit breakers. Sorry I don’t know how to do the web link for it.

    #172 3 years ago

    Thank you Dave, I'll take a look at it.

    #173 3 years ago

    On the topic of parts needed.
    The lock relay coil is disconnected and doesn’t need to be replaced.
    The game over relay coil number looks to be M26-500(verify on schematic please) and is available at pinball resource.
    The pitch unit motor I can’t be possitive of the part number on the schematic. Please post it so the pinball community can research it.
    The pitch motor needs to be removed because of information stamped on it that might help to identify.
    To remove pitch motor.
    With machine unplugged.
    Unsolder the last wire going to the motor.
    Loosen and remove cam from shaft.
    Switch bracket should be screwed on to the motor. Remove screws and set bracket aside.
    On the other side of the unit, loosen pitch arm set screw, arm may not come off until the motor mounting screws are almost removed.
    Remove motor and arm.
    Post pics of motor.

    #174 3 years ago

    I know you've gone over it before but I still don't understand how if I manually activate the slider and curve relay the motor does work, the arm comes around and can actually pitch a ball.

    How that could be defective?

    Are you saying the relay coil is also defective?

    I'm really sorry if I don't fully grasp what you're saying so I hope you understand.

    #175 3 years ago

    Would this be the correct part to order:

    https://www.jameco.com/z/35-2115-BU-GC-Electronics-Circuit-Breaker-15A-250VAC-2-Pin-Bulk_621430.html?CID=MERCH

    So basically, I solder a 15 amp fuse to the leads, then simply plug it into the machine like I normally do with a fuse?

    #176 3 years ago

    The green wire is located on the second switch from the top of the game over relay.

    It is connected to all of the other relays on the main relay bank accept the "first shot" relay.

    The other wire on the opposite lug is tan green (see picture in front of paper.). I'm assuming you're referring to this tan green wire when you say the non grey wire?

    I'll take the schematic and go through the coil list. It's going to take a while so I don't anticipate me finishing tonight.

    Also, is that circuit breaker from that link the correct product I should order?

    IMG_20200904_215407527.jpgIMG_20200904_215407527.jpgIMG_20200904_220707972.jpgIMG_20200904_220707972.jpgIMG_20200904_214901415.jpgIMG_20200904_214901415.jpg
    #177 3 years ago
    Quoted from Macca:

    Would this be the correct part to order:
    https://www.jameco.com/z/35-2115-BU-GC-Electronics-Circuit-Breaker-15A-250VAC-2-Pin-Bulk_621430.html?CID=MERCH
    So basically, I solder a 15 amp fuse to the leads, then simply plug it into the machine like I normally do with a fuse?

    That unit looks ok-you may want to get a 10A breaker at the same time.

    #178 3 years ago

    Okay, I hope I did this right because I decided to go crazy and just measure anything I could find.

    I attached the black lead to the lug next to the green wire lug (2nd switch from the top)(tan green or grey green) and measured everything with the red lead.

    After a while it was a little too much to write down the wire colors so I just added the numbers for each lug.

    Lock Relay White Wire 00.7 Green Wire 00.4
    25 Cent Relay White 00.7, Yellow 22.7
    Replay Relay White 00.7, Orange 12.2
    6 Bnk SB Reset White 00.6, Yellow 15.6
    Cancel SB Relay Reset Plain Wire 00.6, Yellow 15.3
    Out Relay White 00.6, Yellow 14.0

    MAIN BANK
    1st Shot Grey 00.5, Orange 03.6
    2nd Player White 00.6, Orange 03.8
    1st Player White 00.6, Orange 03.7
    2nd Coin White 00.6, Orange 08.8
    Game Over White 00.6, Orange 03.8
    Start 00.7, Orange 08.8
    Both Coils Register 1

    CANCEL RELAY BANK
    Cancel Out White 00.5, Orange 03.6
    C - White 00.5, Orange 03.6
    A - White 00.5, Orange 03.6
    N - White 00.5, Orange 03.6
    C - White 00.5, Orange 03.6
    E - White 00.5, Orange 03.6
    L - White 00.5, Orange 03.5
    Both Coils Register 1

    SCORE MOTOR
    Left 00.6 / 00.3

    PLAYER CONTROL UNIT
    One Lug 22.1, Other 1
    Top Coil 05.8, 00.6
    Lower Coil 02.6, 00.6

    BONUS CONTROL
    00.6, 00.4

    AMIMATION UNIT
    Animation Motor Relay - White 00.7, Brown 13.8
    Animation Motor Reset Relay White 00.7, Brown 14.9
    Reset Control Relay Plain 00.6, White/Blue 22.1
    HR Target Extra Run Relay - White/Blue 00.4, Brown 00.5
    Star Control Relay - 2 White Wires 00.7, 1 wire 00.4

    Single Relay - Orange 13.8, White 00.4
    Double Relay - Orange 14.0, White 00.4
    Triple Relay - Orange 13.9, White 00.4

    Lower Animation Coil 13.6, 00.7
    Upper Coil 04.8, 00.7

    No Match Unit 00.4, 00.7

    Score Reels 04.6, 00.7

    Score Reset Relay - Orange 07.3, White 00.7
    Score Relay Coil - Orange 14.1, White 00.5
    Score Relay Coil - Orange 13.9, 00.5
    Credit Reel - Orange 0.61, White 00.7

    Out Buzzer Relay - Orange 15.8, White 00.4
    Regular Score Bleacher HR Relay - Orange 16.3, White 00.4
    Target HR Relay - Orange 10.7, White 00.4

    Curve Pitch Control Pink 15.6, 00.7
    Slider Pitch Control Pink 15.6, 00.7

    Bat Coil - 1, 1

    Curve/Slider Control Unit 0.8
    Bat Timer 7.1, 1
    Bat Timer Motor - 02.9, 00.9

    Top Relay (Unreadable) - 21.3, 00.7
    Bat Relay - 15.5, 00.7
    Bat Control Relay - 21.8, 00.7
    Pitch Relay - 15.3, 00.7
    Bleacher Extra Run - 15.1, 00.9

    Coil Test Pic (resized).jpgCoil Test Pic (resized).jpg
    #179 3 years ago

    Since you connected the jumper to an incorrect wire your readings aren’t what I asked for.
    The game over relay must be tripped to isolate the green wires interfering with the readings.
    In the second pic it shows that grey is the switched common and will be found on all of the coils and motor in that row that needs to be tested. The jumper clip will connect to each coils non grey wire lug, test red probe to grey on coil , take reading, move red probe to white wire on unsoldered lock relay coil, take reading. Move jumper to next coil on the list.
    We need this info from just this row and not the whole machine.

    #180 3 years ago

    Just so I get this correct. The game over relay will be in the up position that normally blows the fuse?

    Also, the way I'm reading it you are saying to put the black alligator clip on the non gray wire and with the red lead get a reading on its other lug.

    Then, move the black alligator clip to the next non grey coil lug and with the red lead test that other lug?

    So I'm NOT going to have the black alligator clip on the second switch from the top in the game over relay next to the green wire any more?

    Is that correct?

    I'm just trying to visualize it while I'm at work and not actually in front of the machine.

    I can't tell you how much I appreciate your patience.

    #181 3 years ago

    The game over relay should be in the down position. The rest of info looks correct.

    #182 3 years ago

    When I took my test readings I had it in the down (game over) position.

    #183 3 years ago

    Ok but you didn’t have the jumper hooked up correctly.

    #184 3 years ago

    Yes, I realized that after I made the post.
    Things are happening here tonight, and I'm not sure I can get to the testing tonight.

    Sorry, but If I can, I'll post the results.

    #185 3 years ago

    I think I got everything.

    If I missed anything, please let me know.

    Also, I noticed some burn above the lock relay.
    I've included a photo.

    MAIN BANK with Meter set to 200 ohms:

    Start Relay: 0.83
    Game Over: 0.34
    2nd Coin: 0.85
    1st Player Lite: 0.34
    2nd Player Lite: 0.34
    1st Shot: 0.34
    Lock Relay: 29.5

    25 Cent Coin: 22.2
    Replay Relay: 12.0
    S/B Bank Reset Relay: 15.4
    S/B Cancel Reset Relay: 15.0
    Out Relay: 13.4

    CANCEL BANK
    Cancel Out: 3.4
    C: 3.6
    A: 4.2
    N: 3.4
    C: 3.6
    E: 3.5
    L: 3.4

    HR Target: 11.3
    Regular Score Bleacher HR: 16.2
    Out Buzzer Relay: 15.6
    Single: 13.7
    Double: 14.0
    Triple: 16.9
    Star Control Relay: 00.7

    Curve Control Relay: 15.2
    Slider Control Relay: 15.1
    TOP RELAY (UNREADABLE): 20.9
    Bat Relay: 15.1
    Bat Control Relay: 21.3
    Pitch Relay: 14.9
    Bleacher Extra Run (Fluctuating) 16.0
    Pitch Motor: (Both Grey) 2.5

    Lock Relay Burn (resized).jpgLock Relay Burn (resized).jpg
    #186 3 years ago

    The next resistance test will be the total parallel resistance of the switched ladder circuits. With conditions the same with the game over relay latch down.
    With black lead touching grey switched common wire, touch red lead to white wire unsoldered from lock relay coil.
    Take reading.

    #187 3 years ago

    I'll check that out later tonight when I get home from work.

    #188 3 years ago

    Okay, once again let me make sure I did this correct.

    I hooked the black alligator clip to the second switch from the top game over relay. The gray common wire that is right next to the green wire.

    I then hooked up the red alligator clip to the unsoldered lock relay white wire.

    I got a reading of 00.7

    IMG_20200906_191515765.jpgIMG_20200906_191515765.jpg
    #189 3 years ago

    To test my theory, with conditions the same, advance the player/out unit 1 step off of home which means first out. Repeat last test.
    Reading should be different because the shorted star control relay coil is disconnected from the circuit. This coil needs to be unsoldered with greys kept together and its other wire and set aside. Time to risk another fuse and relatch game over relay. Please post coil part number to be researched.

    #190 3 years ago

    I had all the wires still hooked up from the previous test. I advanced the player unit 1 rivet and the reading was still the same. It did not move.

    How is the Star Control Relay disconnected. I didn't do anything to it?
    Do you want me to unsolder it, THEN do the test?
    IMG_20200906_215832322.jpgIMG_20200906_215832322.jpg

    #191 3 years ago

    Unsolder the white with black wire and retest.

    #192 3 years ago

    I unsoldered the Star Control Relay white with black wire.

    I advanced the Player Unit 1 rivet and still got the same previous reading of 00.7

    IMG_20200906_222700131.jpgIMG_20200906_222700131.jpg

    #193 3 years ago

    Unplug the jones plugs from the playfield and test from grey to white. Any difference in the reading?

    #194 3 years ago

    No change at all.
    Still 00.7

    IMG_20200906_233711175.jpgIMG_20200906_233711175.jpg
    #195 3 years ago

    With all the jones plugs unplugged in the head and the reading is the same this confines the problem to the head. To troubleshoot further on the cancel bank row of coils a grey wire will feed the row of jumpered coils. Unsolder grey wire. Any change in reading?

    #196 3 years ago

    I'll look for that main gray wire that is running across the cancel bank and unsolder it when I get home later tonight.

    #197 3 years ago

    I left the wires attached from yesterday along with the Jones plugs unplugged.

    I unsoldered from the cancel out relay bank the "L" Gray wire in "cancel.".

    I still got the same result reading of 00.7

    IMG_20200907_193705488.jpgIMG_20200907_193705488.jpg
    #198 3 years ago

    The main bank with all those low readings is next. Doing the same resistance test grey to white, trip each of the banks latch ins individually, post results of reading with each latch tripped. Do a resistance test of each of the bank relay coils( not the 2 bank reset coils). Test across the coil lugs of coil with it in tripped position. List coil resistances.

    #199 3 years ago

    Okay, I'll keep the test wires where they are, one on the grey common lock relay wire then
    I'll trip each individual white relay on the main bank (game over, start, second coin etc) get a reading, and do a resistance test as well later tonight...

    #200 3 years ago

    I took some tests for the main bank relay. I encountered a couple anomalies (higher readings) and had to retest two and three times before settling on a common number.

    With the black alligator clips on the grey common wire on the lock relay I put the red alligator clips onto the white wire lug, tripped each individually and got these readings:

    Start 00.4
    Game Over 00.4
    2nd Coin 00.8
    1st Player 100 Lite 00.4
    2nd Player 100 Lite 00.3
    1st Shot 00.8

    I then put the black and red alligator clips on the lug of each relay, tripped each individually and got these readings:

    Start 16.8
    Game Over 03.4
    2nd Coin 16.4
    1st Player 100 Lite 03.4
    2nd Player 100 Lite 0.34
    1st Shot 3.4

    IMG_20200908_204001112.jpgIMG_20200908_204001112.jpgIMG_20200908_203929593.jpgIMG_20200908_203929593.jpg
    There are 267 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 6.

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