(Topic ID: 222662)

Chicago Coin "Top Ten" Project

By lloprete

5 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by lloprete
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#1 5 years ago

Hi!
Sort of new to pinball projects here...

Basically, I have a Chicago Coin Top Ten that is in pretty poor condition:
Backbox: Artwork needs sealing before it flakes away, score reels are gummed up, etc.
Playfield: Sunken/missing plastic inserts everywhere (2 missing - may be in cabinet...), yellowed/dirty art on plastics, worn rubbers and plunger and no ball (easy fixes)
Table: Missing neck, missing legs, wood peeling a tiny bit in front, some small chips in wood, really yellowed "white" paint on sides/front/head
Mechanically: When plugged in: coin lockout coils turn on and stay on (soft hum), pressing start game with credits on wheel and score reels in 0 positions spins score motor once but stops without beginning a game (as in, if you manually activate a switch on the playfield or in the outhole, nothing happens. However, the score motor has stopped spinning...odd...). Also, pretty much anything with a spring is gummed up or otherwise not very springy.

I am planning on spending about 1-2 hours per week for the next two semesters (~25 weeks total) trying to get it up and running. Not looking to do a full restoration or make it look 'new from the factory' - just hoping to save the pin from the dump and make it a "player's" pin. Last year, I fixed a Williams Space Odyssey that had a few moderate problems (ball count and bonus count malfunctions prevented game from starting, maladjusted feature switch, rebuilt plunger/chime unit, replaced rubbers/lights/etc, fixed a rollover button, and other similar challenges). This year, I'll also have 2-3 people working with me who are completely new to the hobby. I'm hoping to convert them into pinball fanatics

Do you think my project is reasonable? Also, any advice regarding the mechanical problems? Lastly, has anyone here built an EM neck before - how is that process?

Thank you in advance for your help and advice. As a college student looking to get more into the hobby, everyone on Pinside has been a godsend!

Sincerely,
lloprete

PS: I can take/post photos if needed. Just let me know

#2 5 years ago

I've restored a few "parts" machines over the years into running machines, so this Top Ten machine sounds like a reasonable project. If the machine is mostly complete, then it should be economically feasible to get it cleaned up and running...

There's a ton of information on Pinside and the Web about cosmetic restoration on pinball machines... I'd be very conservative when considering "sealing" anything on a pinball machine. Sealing should only be considered in the most extreme cases. Always try to find alternatives to sealing. Many a machine has been ruined by someone sealing a backglass or playfield.

The neck, called a pedestal, should be easy to make. You'll just need the correct dimensions of a Chicago Coin pedestal of that era. I'm sure someone on Pinside would have the dimensions for the pedestal. Or, sometimes you'll be able to find an empty cabinet that has a usable pedestal, but Chicago Coin cabinets are somewhat difficult to find.

The usual plan is to get the machine working 100% and then, after that, work on the cosmetic issues... It sounds like the machine has an incomplete reset issue. You would need to check the switches in the circuits that send power to the score motor. Do you have a schematic for the machine? One of the switches is not staying closed long enough to completely reset the machine. Yes, gummed up stepper units and solenoids can also cause a lot of problems with the machine resetting. If you get all of the steppers and solenoids clean and operating properly, you'll have an easier time when troubleshooting problems with the machine.

You can post a detailed description about the problems with the machine, and we'll try to help you get the machine running... Enjoy the machine!...

#3 5 years ago

Thank you for your reply!

In regards to "sealing," I am considering using triple thick to preserve whatever artwork is left on the backglass (which is most of it). I'm mainly afraid of more paint flaking off as we move around the machine to fix it up. Just want to keep what's there from disapearing (b/c it's in pretty decent condition). From what I understand, the layer you use triple thick on is permanently preserved, including whatever dirt and stuff you accidentally seal, but you can always add on additional layers if you decide to add paint or transparent film (as some do). I could be wrong, though - I've never done an cosmetic touch-ups (and will save those to the end if I even try any...)

Based on your advice, I think there are a few things to start with:
1. Hunt down designs for a CC pedestal and build one. Also, get legs and bolts for the machine.
2. Clean out all the stepper units so they rotate freely - replace worn out springs as necessary.
3. Read schematics (I have the schematics and parts catalog) to find score motor switch and work at #2's problem from this direction as well.

Later on down the line:
1. Replace missing/sunken inserts
2. New rubbers and lights everywhere and a new ball.
3. Clean up the cabinet, playfield, and backglass (avoiding doing too much touch-up work, since this is my first project pin).
4. If ambitious, try to get the coin mechs to work. Otherwise (99.9% likely), set it up on freeplay.

How does this sound? Reasonable plan of attack?

Thanks again for your advice!

Sincerely,
lloprete

PS: I'll post some pictures in a minute

#4 5 years ago

Here are a few pictures. I've cleaned off the the some of the backbox and got the score reels looking nice (see "before" and "after" photos). However, they still are pretty gummed up and will need to be cleaned more thoroughly. I've also gotten some of the rust off the chime (didn't take an "after" picture). The playfield is in playable and somewhat presentable (when cleaned) shape. The inserts and plastics just need some TLC...

Anyway, let me know if anything in these photos jumps out at you as important or noteworthy - you have plenty more experience than I have!

Thanks,
lloprete

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#5 5 years ago

There are many opinions about "sealing" a backglass, but from the photos of your backglass, it IS NOT a candidate for sealing. Remember that Triple Thick is a craft spray and it can have adverse effects on the backglass paint. Also, when you seal a backglass, you essentially devalue the machine, because it is no longer original. As for me, I won't buy a machine with a sealed backglass or playfield, because I don't know how the sealant will hold up in the future. Your best bet is to lightly clean the backglass and use it as-is. You can monitor the condition of the backglass, and if things get worse in the future, you can consider different backglass restoration options...

It looks like you have a good plan to get the machine running again... You might want to try using some Novus 2 to clean the tops of the playfield plastics to see if it will clean off that smoke/brown tint that the plastics have... Also, I like changing the lamps to #47 lamps to reduce heat in the backglass and playfield area. We'll look forward to hearing more updates about your machine...

#6 5 years ago

Thank you for your advice regarding the backglass. I will keep a close eye on it as we work on the rest of the machine next semester. As I mentioned in my first post, I am not really interested in cosmetic or accurate restoration. I just want the game to work properly and look reasonable presentable (clean, but not repainted or anything crazy), but you have a good point about the sealant possibly wreaking havoc in the future. As much as I would like to get the machine up and running and preserve its looks, I want it to survive a long time, so I have to be careful to "do things right"

Novus 2 is a great suggestion, amd I'm totally on board with #47 bulbs - I use them in my machines at home wherever possible They're bright enough for me!

Thanks for your help. Will keep you posted on my progress once the semester begins!

-lloprete

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from lloprete:

Based on your advice, I think there are a few things to start with:
1. Hunt down designs for a CC pedestal and build one. Also, get legs and bolts for the machine.
2. Clean out all the stepper units so they rotate freely - replace worn out springs as necessary.

Sounds like a good plan, but be careful about replacing springs. I've found that springs, like coils, don't often go bad or weaken unless they've been damaged somehow. If you can find part numbers and exact replacements that's fine but swapping in something that looks similar may introduce mechanical issues that would be hard to diagnose later. Springs are selected based on the strength of the coils they're working against and messing with that balance can be problematic. If a spring doesn't seem to be doing its job it's more often than not due to an issue elsewhere having to do with friction, dirt, grime, wear, etc. which should be addressed first.

/Mark

#8 5 years ago

Thank you for your words of caution regarding springs. I will definitely clean everything well before messing with the springs.

I have a fear that a few of them might be damaged by rust (the spring below the chime seems way too weak, for instance) - this pinball machine is full of rusty parts and dust On the bright side, I have the parts catalog so I might be able to trace down what springs go where if needed. But, yeah, I'll definitely tread lightly and clean everything before replacing any parts. Often, the old stuff just works

Thanks!

lloprete

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