(Topic ID: 301439)

Chicago Coin Rodeo Rifle Stylus Tip Needed Please

By B1ffB0ff

2 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by B1ffB0ff
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    #1 2 years ago

    Hi
    Can someone provide me with a picture of the correct stylus tip i need for my Rodeo rifle game please, mine has a bolt screwed into it instead...

    Thanks

    John

    #2 2 years ago

    most of the ccm rifles used the stylus on the image below.

    see https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/chicago-coin-industries-c-1_39?_route_=chicago-coin-industries-c-1_39&page=15

    ccm stylus (resized).jpgccm stylus (resized).jpg
    #3 2 years ago

    Thank you baldtwit that is spot on. The white stylus on the link looks like it is plastic, i assume it is not?

    Any idea what length and gauge the spring might be, it is out of stock so i guess i will have to make one.

    Thanks again

    John

    #4 2 years ago

    I also see the insulator part is out of stock, do you have an image of one of these - were they fibre or, plastic or rubber?

    Thank you.

    #5 2 years ago

    the spring he lists Williams 10A-197 as a replacement. He has those.

    you can also try pinball resource or other pinball parts suppliers with the part numbers. 289-2510 for the entire arm assembly would be ideal ... or 254-2547. You'd need to measure your arm to figure out if it's one of those.

    I'd guess the insulating washers were fiber/bakelite/plastic ... the stylus needs to slide up/down in it so definitely not rubber. You can probably make the pieces from plastic washers/standoffs from a hardware store.

    I'm going to the pacific pinball museum warehouse on monday and will take a look in a chicoin rifle game. Unfortunately, I don't think they have any parts machines to scrounge in and I think their asking price for entire project machines is too high for that to be a reasonable way to get the parts you need.

    #6 2 years ago

    Thank you again. Sorry the ref to rubber was the washers / insulator part. I will re check spring on site and order. Thank you.

    #7 2 years ago

    I have ordered the stylus, spring and curl over pin. I really have no clue how the curl over pin fits into the picture though, also not sure what is stopping the stylus and washer assembly form flying out the end / falling apart . I guess there is a recess in the end of the stylus that the crimp clicks into proving an electrical contact as well as a surface area that won't go through the hole in the insulated washers.

    Mystery solved for the parts that was stuck to the underside of the gun cupboard also. It looks like it is one of the insulating washers, the other is being used so that the bolts being used as stylus doesn't ground out on the arm. As there is not much in the way of images on the net, i have taken some pics and measurements and see if i can get any made up locally but may help others in the future.

    There are two washers, a dark one and a lighter one with ref to my images below.

    Darkest part:
    Largest Circle Ext. Diameter: 9.8mm
    Smallest Circle Ext. Diameter: 6.3mm
    Hole Internal Diameter: 3.9mm

    Lightest part:
    Largest circle Diameter: 10mm
    Middle Circle Diameter: 6.1mm
    Smallest Circle Diameter:3.7mm
    Hole Internal Diameter: 3mm

    IMG_0520 (resized).JPEGIMG_0520 (resized).JPEG

    This image is of the two washers mated together as if they were fitted into the arm.

    IMG_0523 (resized).JPEGIMG_0523 (resized).JPEG

    Cheers

    John

    #8 2 years ago

    Okay had a brain wave, because i have a show in two weeks that i really want to take this to, but really really don't want to damage the scanning disk with the bolt for a stylus, i think i will use the bolt idea, turn it around so the round head of the bolt is in contact with the scanning disk, make my own 'temporary' insulated washer assembly / former with millyput. Drill a hole through the millyput, when set, and use a couple of nuts to lock the bolt at the correct length and a couple more on the end to allow for attaching the conductor. I have a williams shoe spring or two so if i shave the threads of the lower part of the bolt it should move up and down more freely through the make shift millyput shaft.

    It wont hold for too long, but long enough to get me through the show until i get the right parts and do it properly.

    Will send pics so you can berate me

    John

    #9 2 years ago

    here's how a stylus assembly looks on a rodeo ... or at least on the parts that were in a disassembled rodeo at the pacific pinball museum warehouse. The stylus tip is worn down, and I shoulda taken another picture showing the solder lug with wire attached ... but you can see it in the parts manual page.

    rodeo - ccm- stylus (resized).jpgrodeo - ccm- stylus (resized).jpgrodeo - ccm- stylus arm (resized).jpgrodeo - ccm- stylus arm (resized).jpg

    #10 2 years ago

    Thanks for the details, i made my own temporary one. Works well. I sorted a problem on the Anti cheat relay - it had been smashed and the coil disconnected. Resoldered and stuck back together temporary.

    IMG_0543 (resized).JPEGIMG_0543 (resized).JPEG

    I put a blob of solder on top of a bolt head, and shaped into a cone with grinder then smoothed down with wet and dry - works well!

    IMG_0538 (resized).JPEGIMG_0538 (resized).JPEG

    IMG_0541 (resized).JPEGIMG_0541 (resized).JPEG

    Once i get the bits i will return to normal of course.

    John

    BTW do you have an electronic copy of the instruction manual you can send? I have a hard copy coming soon.

    #11 2 years ago

    afaik, the museum has never assembled the rodeo, so they never obtained the paperwork. It didn't have any in it when it was donated.

    #12 2 years ago

    no problem, thank you any way.

    #13 2 years ago

    I have one stylus never used. I found it in my Foreign Legion installed on the PCB as a spare. PM if interested...

    Image1 (resized).jpgImage1 (resized).jpg

    #14 2 years ago

    BallyCrazy thanks, but i have ordered one. Thankyou though.

    #15 2 years ago

    I'd like to hear how long the solder blob lasts

    if it wears down quickly, silver solder may last longer, but otherwise it seems like a pretty reasonable repair that may last for years.

    #16 2 years ago

    Once I get the correct stylus, i will create a mould and see how that goes. I have a show in a few weeks. So it should get some use, will see what it looks like then. Good idea re the silver.

    Btw. I have no experience when it comes to the contact boards underneath. This is the one that is on mine at the moment. is this too worn out or typical of something of this age please?

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    #17 2 years ago
    Quoted from B1ffB0ff:

    This is the one that is on mine at the moment. is this too worn out or typical of something of this age please?
    [quoted image]

    Looks good to me...

    #18 2 years ago

    Thanks. Looking at a couple of the contact points make me wonder if they are shorting. Will check it out when i next get a chance. Also nice idea to have a hole to put a spare stylus - didn't notice that until i saw the photo just now. Wiser every day

    #19 2 years ago

    Re the shorting contacts on the scanning disk, yeah they are shorting, i took a look at the schematic; they’re supposed to be.

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