(Topic ID: 288651)

Chicago Coin Player Control Unit repair

By Kmstevens

3 years ago


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  • 25 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Kmstevens
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IMG_0001[2] (resized).JPG
contact position (resized).jpeg
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#1 3 years ago

Chicago Coin Sky Rider. Previous owner did many questionable repairs which I am wanting to correct. Bringing this machine back from a long, dirty slumber and one of the first challenges is the Player Control Unit. The circuit board was repaired with a bare copper wire which cannot be doing the wiper any good at all. Any better repair suggestions or should I try to find a used unit and resolder in a replacement board?

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#2 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

the first challenges is the Player Control Unit.

I don't have this machine. Does the Player Control Unit only Step Up, no Reset?

#3 3 years ago

The player control has two layers. It has a full reset, not incremental.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

Chicago Coin Sky Rider. Previous owner did many questionable repairs which I am wanting to correct. Bringing this machine back from a long, dirty slumber and one of the first challenges is the Player Control Unit. The circuit board was repaired with a bare copper wire which cannot be doing the wiper any good at all. Any better repair suggestions or should I try to find a used unit and resolder in a replacement board?
[quoted image]

This is where a cnc pcb cutter could come in handy.
The spider contact mechanism is in the wrong position.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

This is where a cnc pcb cutter could come in handy.
The spider contact mechanism is in the wrong position.

Wrong position? Please explain.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

It has a full reset,

In the pic, is it in its total reset position? Also, after reset, how many
times does it step up?

#7 3 years ago

Hey, good point! The operation is so gummy I had to help it along. But after a full reset to player 1 position, the spider advances only 3 positions to player 4. That position is shown in the photo in the initial post. In no instance of operation do any of the fingers of the spider run over the wire patch! So as long as the connection in the patch is good, it may still be operational! Thanks for the question.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

after a full reset to player 1 position, the spider advances only 3 positions to player 4.

Oh, so that's a Player Step Up Unit. Player Control Unit deceived me a little bit because on the
wiper board there's wiper travel marks that go beyond the 4th (3rd step up) position.
I take it there's a wiper blade under each blade that's showing in the pic to ride on the inner
segments of the wiper board, but why are there markings as if the wiper goes beyond the 4th
player's position?
Anyways, as you know. The first thing is to get that Stepper freed up, cleaned, and lubed along
with the rest of the machine. I 100% go through machines before plugging in..

#9 3 years ago

NOTE: light green smudge: home position.
Wiper numbers (1 through 6 )should go to traces on pcb (biscuit 1 through 6 ).
contact position (resized).jpegcontact position (resized).jpeg

#10 3 years ago

Out side wipers to the [player control unit] should be like this.
Game is in rest, zero position, player one up.
IMG_0001[2] (resized).JPGIMG_0001[2] (resized).JPG
IMG_0002[1] (resized).JPGIMG_0002[1] (resized).JPG

#11 3 years ago

Thanks so much for the input! I have 14 of the 16 gummed up score-reels to restore, then onto the player unit. I will check back when I get into it!

This way more of a challenge than the Bally EM ever was!

#12 3 years ago

Additional issue: first off every moving part has been cleaned and reassembled. During reassembly the spring loaded reset was tested at each step and worked great. However, once I tightened the top spider (unit #2) the spring loaded reset would not work. Additional turns of the spring did not help.

PCB is clean as are the fingers of the wiper. There’s a very thin film of Super Lube on there so I don’t think there’s drag from there. If I eliminate the split washer, and don't tighten the main nut excessively, I can get the reset to work. Is that normal and OK to use that way?

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

Additional issue: first off every moving part has been cleaned and reassembled. During reassembly the spring loaded reset was tested at each step and worked great. However, once I tightened the top spider (unit #2) the spring loaded reset would not work. Additional turns of the spring did not help.
PCB is clean as are the fingers of the wiper. There’s a very thin film of Super Lube on there so I don’t think there’s drag from there. If I eliminate the split washer, and don't tighten the main nut excessively, I can get the reset to work. Is that normal and OK to use that way?

The unit, with out the return spring, should be able to move to some degree of freedom.
I have used my fingers to lightly raise the wipers up off the biscuits to lessen the pressure
on the pcb units.

#14 3 years ago

Torsion spring should have >3 turns... 4 to 5 turns.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Torsion spring should have >3 turns... 4 to 5 turns.

Nice to know. Just finished a Bally redo where stepper torsion springs were usually 2-3 turns at most. I’ll crank the CC units to 4 and see what happens! Just in case, are these springs available anywhere? The ones on there now seem to bee too large a diameter for the wheel shaft. I see the Bally ones offered on Pinball Resource, but never see Chicago Coin units listed anywhere.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

Just in case, are these springs available anywhere?

NLA!
CDI Player Control Unit
130-907 Torsion Spring
I was able to get one from JohnsJukes in Canada...
Web sight list it as Out Of Stock.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

never see Chicago Coin units listed anywhere.

CDI parts are at the End-Of-Life...
You have to "scrape the end of the barrel" to find replacement parts...
I hopefully, will be able to have the two styles of Torsion Springs remade...
I have to see if the springs are too complicated to reproduce as compared to
the Bally springs I had made many years ago...

#18 3 years ago

The ends are nothing special, it’s the internal diameter, gauge of wire, and number of turns that are the issues. The one on there now is way bigger than the shaft requires.Sloppy at best.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

The ends are nothing special, it’s the internal diameter, gauge of wire, and number of turns that are the issues. The one on there now is way bigger than the shaft requires.Sloppy at best.

Are you sure you have the right spring?
The long arm has a few odd bends... the top end has a sharp bend back...
In a way, it is almost like a Williams spring; just different.

#20 3 years ago

At first I thought Sky Rider was an EM arcade piece. Maybe I only worked on
CC 2 Player pins from that era, but does that Player Step Up have double wiper
boards (like their ball bowlers)? If so, did you take off the outside board then clean
and lube the inside wiper board? I've seen double boards to hold extra wires, but
that inside one looks to be a wiper board..
The Stepper torsion springs do have excess play. If it's a double wiper board, it
could use a couple more wraps, and also cleaning and lubing the inside board
is surly a plus..

#21 3 years ago

The Sky Rider is a 4 player game with double wiper boards on the player control. I disassembled and cleaned the entire unit. The torsion spring looked to have been through the war, so I did my best to correct the ends. Vec-tor recommended a lot more turns in the spring than I had, and was used to from previously working on a Bally EM. After making 5 turns on the spring, the wheel, and both wipers, finally and completely reset as designed!

Thanks for all your input and suggestions! I think the backbox is all done. Now to reinstall the playfield and do some inevitable troubleshooting.

#22 3 years ago

Sky Rider status: something seems weird in the wiring because the backbox general illumination lights are dark unless the Player Control unit is advanced to player 2 or 3! Then they are nice and bright. Some wires crossed methinks. How might I go about finding a solution to this? Checked all the solder joints on both Player Control PCBs, and all bulbs have been replaced.

This machine has never worked for me, so the previous owner could have butchered this thing. I’ll keep plugging away. I guess you fix an old Chicago Coin like you eat an elephant; one bite at at time...

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Kmstevens:

Sky Rider status: something seems weird in the wiring because the backbox general illumination lights are dark unless the Player Control unit is advanced to player 2 or 3! Then they are nice and bright. Some wires crossed methinks. How might I go about finding a solution to this? Checked all the solder joints on both Player Control PCBs, and all bulbs have been replaced.
This machine has never worked for me, so the previous owner could have butchered this thing. I’ll keep plugging away. I guess you fix an old Chicago Coin like you eat an elephant; one bite at at time...

Just a guess...
Check your player one illumination lamps!!! I bet a lamp socket is shorted... That would cause the the trace
on the pcb to burn.

#24 3 years ago

Thanks! Will do! I’ll report back and let you know what I find. Appreciate your input.

Now I've developed a middle chime solenoid that’s stuck on and buzzing and the change relay is also humming and looking charred. And if that’s not enough, while it’s making noise all the remaining general illumination bulbs flicker and dim! Resistance tests out fine but she’s getting warm!

#25 3 years ago

Told you I would report back on my Player Control issue, so here goes. All lamp sockets were checked and none were shorted. But it did give me the option of reflowing some questionable solders on the Player Control and backbox lighting. While the lights were on, unplugging and reinserting the far right jones plug woke up all the questionable lighting. I will not pretend to explain or even understand the bizarre GI behavior, but all is now well. Thanks for all the input everyone!

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