(Topic ID: 220686)

Chicago Coin Mustang 1964 Reset/Startup Issue

By Gunny

3 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

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  • 19 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Gunny
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 3 years ago

I recently acquired a 1964 Mustang by Chicago Coin. Game was in really good shape. Replaced bulbs and rubber and gave the PF a good cleaning and a wax. Game will reset with a coin or manually but after it resets nothing happens. The only thing on the PF that works are the 3 30 point targets and they only make the scoring motor spin... no bell... no points added. I can also manually trip the scoring relays in the head. When I do that I get bells and it adds points. Reset brings all the reels back to zero, kicks out a ball but then.... notta. Any ideas or help anyone can give me is appreciated. I do have a schematic for it and I can add pics or video if there is something specific that would help. Thanks in advance.

#2 3 years ago

I'll need to see a high quality scan of the schematic from (for example) Staples ($2) or Kinkos ($6)

#3 3 years ago

Thanks Howard... I'll find somewhere to get them scanned on Monday (hopefully). Meanwhile, I'm willing to try any ideas as well.

#4 3 years ago

What is lit on the back board, EG tilt or game over?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Chrisbee:

What is lit on the back board, EG tilt or game over?

Game over lights briefly, as do most of the other lights on the backglass, but then it all goes dark... I'll see if I can post a video of it.

#6 3 years ago

Here is the link to a video of the machine trying to startup:

#7 3 years ago

It almost looks like the whole game loses power. The score motor and the motor in the playfield both seem to sort of coast to a stop. There may be a Hold type relay that keeps 120 volts pumping into the transformer that's letting go. Watch carefully and see which relay(s) change last. That might be a place to start.

#8 3 years ago

I think I have to agree with Howard, need your schematic. While we wait, Can you find the lock Relay?

From what schematics I have, the Lock Re is powered via the anti-cheat Switch (Normally closed) and score motor or left flipper. This may be the reason why the lights come on for a sort period. (While the score motor turns past a point)

Then the Lock RE is held by the anti-cheat Switch and the Lock RE hold Switch.

Most machines need the Lock RE to be energised to turn on the lights. If this is true for your machine, I’m not sure. Would look at the lock Relay first. There is a hold sw on the relay, it is there to keep the lock relay on, see my red circle. Note this is not your schematic, but another CCM machine, this part will be similar.
Also can you look to see if you have switches on the light circuits in my 2nd snippet below. Let us all know.

What I think is the 1st step, is to get the General illumination (GI) lights to stay on.

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#9 3 years ago

Side note In my snippet above shows the Lock RE hold SW as normally closed, bet it should be NO like all other schematics i have.....

The above snippet is from a 1972 machine....

#10 3 years ago

Chrisbee and MarkG

Thank you.... What you are saying makes sense. I wish I could have run right out and started tinkering, but... Sadly I had to go to work. Haha

I am going to get the Schematic scanned in today and I will post it right away.

Meanwhile I will take a closer look at the Lock Relay. I do recall that it engages and then releases.... Seems like it could be the culprit.

Your help is much appreciated!

#11 3 years ago

Got the schematic scanned in at Staples, Thanks @howardr

In looking at it I think you all have me on the right track. Looks like the Lock RE should be closed and I know for sure that it doesn't stay closed when I start a game. Can I test it by simply holding it closed and starting a game and if that works just replace the coil?

I had to shrink the schem a bit but I think it is still clear when you zoom in. Thanks again all!

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Gunny:

Can I test it by simply holding it closed and starting a game and if that works just replace the coil?

You can hold it closed for testing but replacing the coil is unlikely to help because coils almost never go bad. More likely one of these switches is the culprit, which you can diagnose with Alligator clip jumper wires.

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#13 3 years ago

Thanks HowardR I will give this a shot tonight and report back!

#14 3 years ago

Wahoo! There is a switch that is mounted to the board on the bottom of the cabinet. Maybe a "cheat switch" it looks like maybe it should have a spring on it to keep the switch closed. For now I have it held with a little wood block. Anyone know how this is supposed to work?

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#15 3 years ago

It's an anti-cheat switch. The long blade should press down on the vertical pin. The short blade contact point should press up on the long blade contact point . That way if someone hits the bottom of the cabinet the switch will open, deenergizing the lock relay.

#16 3 years ago

So whats happening now?

#17 3 years ago

Now I am totally in business! You guys had me o. The right track and it paid off. I just need you adjust the cheat switch, or leave it propped... either way I have a working pinball! Thanks guys!

#18 3 years ago

Fantastic. The cheat SW can be bent to make contact. This is how we adjust most SW's....

#19 3 years ago

Perfect... thanks everyone. I am going to mark this resolved. I'll be back if I have any other issues.

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