(Topic ID: 121801)

Chicago Coin Hollywood 3D Printed Part

By tmuir

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by tmuir
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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Ball Kicker2.png
Ball Kicker1.png

#1 4 years ago

I'm currently restoring my first pinball machine and the plastic under playfield parts for my Ball Kicker Unit were in a terrible state and to the best of my knowledge you can't get replacement parts for these, so I decided to 3D print replacement parts.

Fifteen minutes with my vernier and a scrap of paper and another 30 minutes on Sketchup and I had the part modelled.

Ten minutes later I was ready to fix the replacement part to the pinball machine.
I'm reasonably happy with the results and over the weekend will print the other 3 I need.
Got to love the fact that someone used nails to fix the other parts to the underside of the machine............

I've also uploaded the STL file to Thingaverse should anyone else want to print some.


Anyone else used a 3D printer to make plastic parts you can no longer get?
My printer is not good enough to make parts to go on the top of the playfield that are visible, but great for bits like this.

Ball Kicker1.png Ball Kicker2.png
#2 4 years ago

PBR does sell something that would probably work. About half way down. http://www.pbresource.com/rollobut.htm
It looks like it is missing two holes that you'd need to drill. Your version looks spot on though and It has to be a great feeling to come up with a perfect replacement on your own.

#3 4 years ago

Sweet! I recently built a 3D printer and have printed out a few pinball parts. I was in a jam and designed a lane guide replacement on Tinkercad. Lots of fun!

#4 4 years ago

Thanks ALexF, I must of missed that on PBR when I placed an order with him a few weeks back now.
Though PBR is problematic for me to order from being I'm in Australia and I have to pay by moneygram, so its only worth me placing large orders with PBR as the cost of postage and moneygram makes it too expensive otherwise.
It costs me 10 cents in plastic to print this part so it works well for me.
The next big part to try and make is the plastic sweeper arm of the score reels as the ones on my machine are near impossible to find, but that will be more than one evenings work to design that part.

My 3d printer I got in December last year and I do love being able to say now 'I'll just go and print that part I need.'

#5 4 years ago

Very cool! A great game, too. Missed shots at the saucer ladder bounce back as fast as a BSD

#6 4 years ago

The PBR ones are correct. I needed them for my Hollywood also just drill the extra two holes to match. They're nailed in from the factory. Mike

#7 4 years ago

That is very cool! I was just at the art museum and a guy was demoing his 3d printer, so I got the chance to ask him some questions. The main question I had was the durability of the plastic. Seemed pretty strong.

You did an awesome job! I loved my Hollywood too...I just couldn't handle the doorbell!

#8 4 years ago

LOL the doorbell, though I know what you mean.
Bottom line is I have been looking for an EM machine for nearly a year, but where I live the cheap ones usually sell for $1600 to $1800 which was outside my price range.
I got the restoration project Hollywood for $450, which by the time its finished will of cost me about $1000, but when you have a limitted budget you take what you can get.

The printed parts are not quiet as strong as die cast parts, but pretty close as long as you think about how to print the part, also new materials you can print with are coming out every month expanding what you can do.

Didn't realise they were originally nailed in Mike, I'm very much still on the learning curve on restoring pinball machines, although I've been wanting one for over a decade.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from tmuir:

but where I live the cheap ones usually sell for $1600 to $1800 which was outside my price range

Wow, that's crazy - but I guess it's supply/demand. Great job on the part fabrication!

#10 4 years ago

Excellent, and thanks for the share.

I did buy some spares BITD from pinball resource, but it doesn't hurt to have the file on hand just in case (now to buy a printer).

Definitely be interested in the score reel arm too.

#11 4 years ago

Yeah the score wheel arms were starting to crack on mine also. I can see that being the weak point for the 70's CC games.

#12 4 years ago

If I succeed in making score reel arms I will make the design freely available.
I could print and post them, but being that I'm in Australia it could work out better ordering them from Shapeways, but it will be a big job to design the score wheel arms. I think 6 out of the 8 arms on my machine have started to crack.

Once I have worked my way through all the myriad of little issues to make the game play correctly then I will worry about the score reel arms, and the small relays on the second player score reels that I need to fabricate.

I was a good feeling 6 weeks after bringing home a rusty, dirty and gummed up machine to be able to turn it and have it atleast half work.

#13 4 years ago

Dang, very nice. Just finished a CC Cinema, 4 player. I had to fab those
parts also, I made mine from old credit cards. Also had to fab the accuators
that were bakelite. Credit cards again. I had four broken arms at the score reels
but they were complete so I glued them and put a backing piece on.
I am soooo low tech, sheeesh.
I got my game for 120 bucks, spent about 100 hours and about 100 dollars.
Plays great but I can beat it anytime. Oh, I redid the whole playfield and
varathaned it about 7 coats.

#14 4 years ago

Nicely done Jimmiex.
I tend to rely on my fanacy tools in my workshop to get me through, but I am always impressed by people that manage to do so much more, with so much less.
I haven't put 100 hours into my machine yet, but at a guess I would say atleast 50 hours.

Nothing wrong with the low tech approach.
My playfield has Mylar installed on it and I can see its not going to come off easily, so have just cleaned it and will leave that as is as I can see me ruining the playfield trying to remove it.

I use restorations like this to justify to my wife why I needed to buy those thousands of dollars of tools in my workshop.

Don't let her know I could achieve the same results for just a bit more time and no fancy tools as one of my other pleasures is spending 6 months investigating and then finally deciding what expensive tool I will buy next.

#15 4 years ago

Now the fun is really starting, starting to measure up and design a replacement score reel arm to print out on my 3D printer.

I'm still debating whether to size the rivet holes to match some 1/16 inch brass rivets I already have or try and track down the original style which I know is very similar to the ones you can get to repair Lionel prewar O gauge toy trains.

I will be making the part slightly different to the original to make it easier to print.

I hope to have the first draft printed by the end of the weekend.
I've a small arbor press that I originally got for fixing Lionel trains to set the rivets.
I am planning on reusing the original wiper blades as I don't have any spring steel to use in place of the originals. That and fabricating the wiper blades would be a PITA.

I'll keep you all updated and if they work will make the design available on Thingaverse.

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