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Chicago Coin, 1968You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mthomasslo.
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Does anyone have a schematic for Chicago Coin's Pin-Bowler? I've tried PBR and Steve didn't have it. It's an early (~1949) flipper pinball with a bowling theme. Every time I ask about this game I have to explain that it's not a ball or shuffle bowler.
I'm about to draw one from scratch, but don't want to go to the effort if there's one out there.
Thanks,
Mike
Quoted from Pmoore66:I'm uisng a schematic for CCM Thing to try and make some headway on my new acquired Pin-Bowler. This machine came from Spring Lake, MI where the owner said his family was given the machine in 1956 from a neighbor who worked at Brunswick in town.
He didn't know how to lift the playfield and told me he added a 6th ball when he won a steely in a marble game on the playground. I'm hoping the playfield will come back a little. His kids played it when they were young but it has been sitting for years. I don't think it was ever opened. The backglass is OK - some flaking that I am hoping to handle - Triple Thicked it today because it is very fragile paint.
Along the way it looks like the bell coil caught on fire.
[quoted image]
From what I gather this is a 0273 coil but I am striking out searching for an equivalent. The Thing schematic just says "gong" coil without any sizing.
But that brings me to my next struggle. At some point, someone installed a leaf switch on top of the back box to reset the machine.
[quoted image]
This has introduced a rats nest that I am hoping to mitigate but without a real schematic, I really need some decent backbox photos. Any Pin-Bowler folks that might supply some good images so I can get it back to square??
I am also looking for a template apron card that was introduced on the CCM '48 Sally by '62 Sun Valley, CCM was using the metal aprons like everyone else.
Thanks in Advance for any info you can share.
Pin-bowler
Gong coils are O-273 (the letter "Oh" not Zero) they are unusual, in that the mounting bracket is part of the coil. I don't know of any substitute, but since the sleeve is brass, it should be an easy rewind. Measure the wire diameter (caliper or micrometer) then slowly unwind the old wire counting the exact number of turns. Then carefully (trying to keep the layers level) put the same number of turns back on, using new magnet wire. After soldering the ends to the lugs, wrap the outside with non flammable tape (I use 3M 33+). Reinstall (be sure to clean the plunger and inside of sleeve) and reconnect the wires. It will work as good as new.
Mike
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Shelburne, ON