Quoted from egyptrus:

To finish up the question regarding playfield glass for the criss cross hockey, I ended up measuring it myself, had someone else verify my measurements, and then ordered the glass. I ordered 22 5/8 x 43 at 3/16 thick and it fits perfectly.

Quoted from Chloro:

I have a problem with a Chicago Coin Sondstage machine. This is my first pin repair and from what I've experienced probably not the best one to start on. Regardless, I like a good challenge.
The game seems to function on all aspects but there seems to be an issue with the 10-90 scoring. The coil frame for the 10-90 relay was broken when received but the score would advance when the relay was activated manually (Coil was not wired).
I replaced the coil with the same numbered coil, after it was wired and powered on the coil remains stuck energized. After researching on this web, I checked the associated score reels and they are clean and nothing seems stuck. I wedged a piece of cardboard between the coil to keep it open and powered the machine on, there was a constant blue spark between the leaves indicated with a red arrow of the attached picture.
I assume you would follow back from those relay contacts or score reel to the playfield and find an issue there.  I was expecting to see all the wire colors coming to the 10-90 relay shown on the wiring diagram but I must not be reading it corrrectly. Has anyone experienced this before or have any advice?

Quoted from Chloro:

I spent plenty of time troubleshooting the 2nd player 10-90 score reel/player control as recommended. When I had the score reel board disconnected it would never advance to a new game but would not stick open on the 10-90 relay. This was leading me to think it was somewhere along the line of 2nd player score reel/Player control/10-90 relay. I spent a number of hours tracing wires back and forth. I did manage to find a broken wire on the 2nd player 10-90 score reel that was soldered back.
After getting a little frustrated I checked the schematics again and decided to check the 4 playfield point switches at 10-90. It didn't name the 2nd set of switches so I simply traced the black-white wire, is this typical of schematics not identifying the playfield name switches? I eventually found a kicker switch open that is supposed to be normally closed. I corrected this and now there is no longer a problem with the 10-90 relay sticking open energized. Now I can play a game up to 990 points, next step is replacement of the 1000s coil that is clearly burnt.
Thanks for the suggestion, it helped me to study the schematics a bit more and understand them which put me on the right path. Next time I should be more thorough when examining the easy option first.

Quoted from levijessicap:

I'm hoping someone can help me. I picked up a Chicago Coin Company Riviera pinball machine. It worked fine before I moved it to a new home. No all it wants to do is click in the back box and the two coin compartments. Any help would be great, and if I need to get more info to anyone I will do so. Thank you in advance.

Quoted from nomo:

Anyone in the Chicago Coin Club have an any relay armatures? I'm needing two 29-2512-3 armatures for a Prestige bowler. My current plan is to fabricate one out of printed circuit fiber board, Sure wish I had a pattern to copy!

Quoted from nomo:

So I made these two armatures. Yes, my lines are not perfect, but freehand with a dremel tool, what do you expect. But they seem to be working just fine. I purchased a piece of vulcanized fiberboard from Antique Electronic Supply for less than $6 with shipping!

Quoted from simplykind:

Anyone into Chicago Coin Mini Baseball?

Quoted from mark532011:

Just joined the club! I picked up a Dolphin for $200 that the owner said was huo. Original owner bought it for themselves and kept it till he passed away then gave it to this guy. It didn't work so he didn't know what to do with it. I think he was glad to get so much for it.
I don't know what is wrong with it but it looks to be in great shape. Back glass has some flaking in the corner but the play field and plastics look they are new
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Quoted from DCRand:

Posting this here in case any Chicago Coin owners can help identify this coil from one of their old games. The coil in the attached pics is from a 1938 Chicago Coin Swing. Looking to replace it, but even PBR can't tell what coil would replace it. Any help would be great.
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Quoted from DCRand:

Thanks, as usual the pin community came through on this one. Had posted in em seeking parts, and found someone in WI who had two of them. Bought one, and should receive any day.

Quoted from ArgosySK:

I guess I just joined the club. I picked up a 1974 Gin. I have a couple of questions.
1. I have one Cracked plastic and one drop target that is missing a piece. Does anyone know where I can find replacements?
2. The Back glass that I have is made of plastic. Does that mean it's a repro?

Quoted from Qman97:

Was digging in my garage and found a CC Sound Stage (bought a lot of 5 pins for $200 and kinda been sitting on them)
I was looking it over and if I remember right everything is there and works I’m just missing the play field plastics.
Anyone know if they are available? I would need a complete set (whishful thinking). I may put it togeather and see if it’s salvageable or a part out project
John

Quoted from PM_Jeremy:

Nice looking cabinet.

Quoted from JimDinTN:

Does anyone have a 1962 or 1963 Chicago Coin parts manual? Seeking to identify and locate small Coil Stop for 1962 Chicago Coin Big Hit P&B. The closest parts book I have is 1969 and there the part number is 130-2516. Not sure if that is correct for 1962. The stop is 3/4" wide x 1" high x 1/2" deep. The screw holes are 3/8" between centers. Also seeking a 1962 CCM Big Hit backglass, instruction cards, and good photos of the cabinet so I can make stencils. Thanks for any help.
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Quoted from Heaterguy:

Update on my jukebox I recently acquired. The previous owner had clipped the wires to the coin unit and player unit I reconnected them and to my surprise the game works as a 4-player game even with the wire soldered directly on the edge connectors! I was very pleased that it now plays a 4-player game and scores correctly. It's a really fun game I love it. The only thing left to fix is the 100-point relay coil D 27 - 1000. At one time I'm guessing the pop bumper stuck (one of the skirts sits lower, almost flush to the pf not sure why) and burned the coil up. Other than eBay I am not able to find a d-27 1000 coil. Marcos and action pinball have a k-27 1000 in stock. Can I substitute the K for the D coil? Will it work?

Quoted from Heaterguy:

(snip)got the machine running however it blows a low line fuse as soon as it is plugged in. It appears to be wired through a on off switch on the back of the head, the switch on the back does not work. I'm getting ready to try to trace that circuit out but does anyone know what the low line fuse is for? I do not have a schematic

Quoted from MrBally:

Install only ONE: Line fuse OR Low line fuse. If both are installed, one will blow. Use regular Line Fuse in the Unig of Indianapolis.

Quoted from Heaterguy:

SOLVED! FinallY found the problem with Chicago Coin jukebox after unsoldering 3 circuits and running jumper wires...I noticed the double bonus relay would not D energize. Consulting the schematic the black wire from the Playfield saucer was holding it in, so i removed the wire and isolated it to this Playfield switch which was in a difficult spot to get two. To the naked eye the switch contacts were open but after checking it with a continuity tester and realizing it was shorted closed I removed the play field and took a closer look at the switch to find that the switch tensioner was actually shorting the switch! Signs that a previous Tech had worked on the circuit to no avail but Chicago Coin was no match for the PIN fesser...difficult to find problem solved.
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