what leg size was used on the CC pins in the 60's? i have a gun smoke without, were they chrome?

thanks!

I have a 1969 Moon Shot, not chrome. Silverish finish but not super bright.

Re: length - do you have a manual?
See this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/chicago-coin-leg-lengths#post-6203052

I see, like the coin door? Looks like equivalent to something like silver hammered finish. I got some spares I can play with. Thank you!

I don’t, thank you I’ll grab one. just started into my first CC..

Yes, very much like the coin door.

Hi All, before I trash my tracings for Chicago Coin Casino cabinet does anyone have a need for them let me know

Thanks
Steve

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Tracings have been discarded

I found a shirt press and decided to experiment with a piece of plastic i wasn’t sure could be saved. It’s for gun smoke.

I soaked the plastic in warm water for a few minutes, wiped it down and zip locked it for days to allow some absorption into the brittle plastic.

Warmed the press to 175F

I Used card stock paper with parchment paper protecting plastic and the base of the press has some flex to it.

Screw twisted the press down and close to the plastic, every two minutes twisted it down to let the plastic warm up, I did this 5 times slowly twisting it down closer and slowly compressing it.

Finally pulled back some on the screw twist part a bit and locked it down, shutting it off and letting it cool down.

Whew I wasn’t entirely sure the painted side would survive so I went with as low of a heat setting as I could go!

I haven’t patched it yet but I’m happy to have discovered a new tools!

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Clever.

I flatted that same plastic piece that was in my Playtime. I put it between two plates of glass, put about 10 pounds distributed around the glass and used a hot air gun to warm it. Did a sequence of about 10 times and after the final cooling it was pretty close to flat. However, given the rarity of this piece I just decided to use the print of this that is on line and preserve the plastic piece. You can see what it looks like in my collection page. I hope in the future some reproduction of this and other CC plastic parts will be done. Of course the same is for many Gottlieb, Bally, Williams, etc. plastics.

Need some help here- Riviera pinball. Taking apart the Bonus unit and the small plastic posts all came out.

The finger switches fell apart before I could stop it.

Can anyone get a good close up of the finger switch assembly. Or if a spare one is available, I'd buy it to.
Thank you

Edit : Wiper switches that is.

Casino pic needed to recreate playfield art. See my pic the building is worn if anyone could take a pic of good artwork so I can reference that would be appreciated.

Thanks
Steve

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Not too much better but it might help..

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Perfect thats what i need to see… thank you!

Another angle..

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I'm uisng a schematic for CCM Thing to try and make some headway on my new acquired Pin-Bowler. This machine came from Spring Lake, MI where the owner said his family was given the machine in 1956 from a neighbor who worked at Brunswick in town.
He didn't know how to lift the playfield and told me he added a 6th ball when he won a steely in a marble game on the playground. I'm hoping the playfield will come back a little. His kids played it when they were young but it has been sitting for years. I don't think it was ever opened. The backglass is OK - some flaking that I am hoping to handle - Triple Thicked it today because it is very fragile paint.

Along the way it looks like the bell coil caught on fire.
bell coil fire
From what I gather this is a 0273 coil but I am striking out searching for an equivalent. The Thing schematic just says "gong" coil without any sizing.
But that brings me to my next struggle. At some point, someone installed a leaf switch on top of the back box to reset the machine.
Reset switch on top of the backbox
This has introduced a rats nest that I am hoping to mitigate but without a real schematic, I really need some decent backbox photos. Any Pin-Bowler folks that might supply some good images so I can get it back to square??

I am also looking for a template apron card that was introduced on the CCM '48 Sally by '62 Sun Valley, CCM was using the metal aprons like everyone else.
Thanks in Advance for any info you can share.
Pin-bowler

I would recommend a new Bell Striker Bracket/Plunger/Coil Assembly from Pinball Resource. Clean up the bell, but replace the rest of it.

I have a Kicker game and between the flippers it lights up and says Extra Ball When Lit. I have a picture of it although it is upside down. I plan on working on this game over the winter. I also have a Chicago Coins Bronco game that has the add a ball feature too. On the backglass it says "Shoot Added Ball Now". Is this backglass only for the add a ball versions?

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I also have a Kicker which is add a ball. The schematic seems to indicate there is a 'standard' version. My schematics came with an additional page for add-a-ball. I have never seen or heard of anyone with a Kicker that award free games. That being said, if one looks at the flyer for the game it mentions both add-a-ball and standard are available.

I considered converting mine to a 'standard' game and seemed too much of a bother and would need to add some parts surely.

Well now I know of 3 C.C. Bronco AABs. I have the other 2, and yes, I believe the
Replay versions doesn't have 'SHOOT ADDED BALL NOW' on the backglass.
Just last year I went through one of them and sent picks to the IPDB because they
had no info on it. Apparently the AAB version is pretty rare..
bgresto is presently making a glass for my 2nd Bronco, and I believe its ready, so
Steve now has that one on file.
I'd like to ask you. Lets say your Bronco is set so 1,200 awards an added ball. Will
it then automatically add a ball for all numbers ending with 200 (2,200, 3,200, ect.)?
I have mine set on 1,000, and it adds a ball for every 1,000 points after that also. If
I had set it on 1,700, it would also give a ball for 2,700, 3,700, ect. How about yours?

Yes, I believe C.C. Kicker came in both versions.
Sounds like you don't care for AABs so much. Might
you like to trde the Kicker for a Replay machine?
I'm in Upstate N.Y.

My Bronco is set so you get a added ball every 500 points. It gives you a added ball at 500, 1000, 1500 ect. I bought mine from a friend who got it and wires were hanging out where the front door used to be. The door is made out of wood on it now. I have owned Bronco for 40 years now. If you don't mind me asking,how much did it cost to get the backglass from bgresto? I am totally unfamiliar with how it works with him. I have 2 Gottlieb Bristol Hills games that I need work on the backglasses too. They only made 110 of them so right or wrong I think they are special games. I have a Williams Dealer game from 1953 that needs work on the backglass too.

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No thanks, I'm happy with my AAB game.

Okay. Does yours have a Replay window in the backglass?
The Replay machine shown on IPDB has a Replay window
and between the flippers it also has Extra Ball.

I sent Steve from bgresto a few used glasses so he could put them on file
that he hadn't created yet, so I got the Bronco backglass for half price which was
$175.00, so the normal price must be around $350.00 shipped.
I got a few glasses from him, and they look alright. He does have the Bronco
completed, but I'm waiting on another glass that's just about finished then
he'll ship them both together. Once I get it, I can send you a pic if you like..
The rule is, if you would like a glass done and he doesn't have it already on
file, then you can send your original to him and because he's using yours to
recreate the artwork, you'll get the new one for half price ($175.00), and if you'd
like the original back, he'll return it with the new one..
I will say, his regular job has him away from home a lot, so if you email, it may
take awhile for a response. The same with receiving a new glass. You'll get it,
but it most likely will take a few months..

Hi Bonzo thanks for the pics I was able to recreate. Your pic is on the right mine recreated on the left - thanks again

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Thanx for the info I sent him the info and pictures.

Thanx for the info I sent him the info and pictures.

Pictures of what, Dealer and Bristol Hills? If he had Snow Derby (Replay version of Bristol Hills),
it's possible he could create the Bristol Hills artwork with just a rear and front pic of the backglass,
but I checked, and he doesn't have either on file..
I have a couple Bristol Hills also, and my 2nd glass is usable, but nothing great. You can send
one of yours in so you can get the new one for half price, then perhaps I'll pick one up once it's on file..
The simple playfield layout fooled me, but Bristol Hills is a very good player. Certainly worth having
a new backglass made for..

Kicker came in both versions. Replay and add a ball. I have an add a ball version with an actual glass backglass. Most of them were for export and had plexi back glasses.

Hello, i have a Chicago Coins Astronaut in decent shape, i am having an issue with it. It plays and works, but once the score hits 10 the relay sticks on and wont release, but i can still play the game.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Looks good! Makes me think i should touch mine up before it gets worse.

Yes I sent pictures of both backglasses. I also need a glass for a Williams Argosy game I have. He has redone 1 of them before. I told him I wanted 2 of the Bristol Hills glasses as I also have 2 of them.

This only happens at 10 correct? Whether it’s a rollover from 9pts to the 10th point or a 10 point target? If it’s happening on 10pt targets but not on a rollover for 9-10 you likely have a target switch for a ten point value that’s too close. If not and it happens on the rollover from 9-10 check your
score wheel driver pawl on the 10 point score wheel, when the plunger pulls back, there a switch that gets opened at the end of the stroke. That switch cuts the power to the coil which releases it. Can you verify it functions? Pictures for reference.

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Gong coils are O-273 (the letter "Oh" not Zero) they are unusual, in that the mounting bracket is part of the coil. I don't know of any substitute, but since the sleeve is brass, it should be an easy rewind. Measure the wire diameter (caliper or micrometer) then slowly unwind the old wire counting the exact number of turns. Then carefully (trying to keep the layers level) put the same number of turns back on, using new magnet wire. After soldering the ends to the lugs, wrap the outside with non flammable tape (I use 3M 33+). Reinstall (be sure to clean the plunger and inside of sleeve) and reconnect the wires. It will work as good as new.

Mike

Hi- I’m looking for a couple things for slapshot hockey.

-door
-manual
-cigarette holder
-dimensions of the glass pieces

Thx!
Pete

Hello fellow Chicago Coin machine owners!

I’ve got a Hollywood that’s blowing the 10amp fuse on startup.

It was totally gone through by some highly regarded New England EM tech about 10-20 years ago before he died. The owner just played it until stuff locked on and melted a few coils.

Now I have it, and after replacing the burnt coils it still blows the 10a when you try starting a game. I even put in a 15 and a 20 (which were in the bottom of the cab) JUST to see if they would pop and they IMMEDIATELY did.

Does this mean the score motor went bad and is shorted? How do I test the score motor for a short?

Which fuse is blowing — the one directly after the power switch?

I’d pull all the other fuses — does it still blow? If not replace the other fuses one at a time until you at least know if it is the 30v, 12v or 6v circuit (and ensure all of those fuses are sized correctly).

The very top 10a. I think it’s blue-red? Not really sure, because it’s not in front of me at the moment

If so that is a lamp circuit. Pull the 30v and 12v fuses, does it still blow?

Might have been wrong. I thought I looked at it a few months ago... but now realize it was almost a year ago!

The 15a 30v fuse was the one blowing.

Try to narrow it down.

Unplug backbox/playfield and see if it still blows, etc.

Check resistance on every coil you can find to see if any are shorted.

There is a "service jack" for the score motor, unplug that to take the score motor out of the picture.

Might want to invest in a resettable circuit breaker.

So Great to have found this group!
Recently picked up first CCM pin Casino which i'm in the process of restoring and falling in love with - came to me filthy and not working - with some "interesting" wiring etc..

if anyone has this in their collection, id be grateful for some help on the wiring of the 1st player 00-90 reel. Ive managed to reconnect loose/cut wires elsewhere but am baffled here. There are a pair of cut red wires not connected. Their length suggests that they should be on the EOS switch ( that and the fact that every other players EOS on the 10-90 has red going to one connection on the EOS). Here the EOS has a Black/green (maybe yellow) and a yellow/maroon to it.

thanks in advance for the help.

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Yes, the 1st Player 10 - 90 Score reel has a make/break. The double red goes
on the outside switch (closest to the score reel).
I have 2 of these. Each one needs much work. I do know of another that's
near mint. I was thinking about making a trade deal for it. let me know what
you think of its game play..

Thank you - Mystery solved - There is a broken Lug on the Make/Break therefore my not noticing it was M/B and assuming it was like every other switch.

Thank you

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A Big Thanks to aahgo which last month gave me the lead to do a
trading deal, and today I brought this baby home, with the bonus
being, it's the Add-a-Ball version. Thanks aahgo! It's one of 2 or 3
on my wanted list..

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What did you trade for this one?

I traded a 1962 Gottlieb Olympics with a new backglass.
The glass on the Hula Hula is pretty nice, but it had been
sealed and a small amount of paint is stuck on the light
board. It's not really noticeable unless the light board is
open, but the rest of the machine (cabinet, coin door,
etc. is nice enough to have a new glass made which
eventually I probably will. Being the Add-a-Ball version,
she'll fit in nicely with some of the other machines set up..

Hey! Glad it worked out for you. That playfield looks really nice!

I like to keep my EM’s as original as possible, but this is one case where I took it to the next level and replaced the posts with Gottlieb metal posts - looks stunning!

And on another note, while searching for a photo of a 1962 Chicago Coin
Sun Valley backglass, I received a response saying I have a Sun Valley
I'll sell. I asked for pics, and got a couple with one being the backglass,
and after a couple looks, I noticed it has no Replay window. If there's
an Add-a-Ball version of Sun Valley out there, it would be the earliest
True 2 Player Add-a-Ball that I'm aware of.
The way the emails went, something seems a little sketchy, but that
is a Sun Valley with no Replay window. I'm going to keep pursuing it..

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