(Topic ID: 67541)

Chicago Coin Club right here!

By GreyScale

8 years ago


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  • 752 posts
  • 179 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by egyptrus
  • Topic is favorited by 49 Pinsiders

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There are 752 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 16.
#701 11 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Did you google the part number on those relays?
They dont have to be chicago coin relays.
Did you look at grainger?

Yes, I didn't Wade through 100 pages but the first couple Pages were all for the sigma and used on eBay or Amazon. Grainger was my next move along with another local electronics Parts Source where I can walk in and make sure it fits the base before I purchase it

#702 11 months ago

Try posting on the em parts thread

#703 11 months ago

I believe this one will work and its only $14

https://www.ia.omron.com/product/item/7441/

#704 11 months ago

if that one will work it is $8 at allied electronics

#705 11 months ago

Happy to report these relays work. 11 bucks at grainger, part number on bag. Only thing left to sort out is if you happen to light a b c d e and f on one ball they stay lit for the entire game even between players 2, 3 and 4. Not sure what resets them although if you only light a couple they do reset when ball drains, will look into it after the holiday. Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!

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#706 11 months ago

Struggling to figure out why if the E and F targets are hit they will remain lit and the double bonus relay pulls in, and stays in for the rest of the game, even when the ball drains and goes to a multiplayer game every player gets the benefit of the double bonus relay being stuck on until end of game. I have checked the out hole switches I have checked and swapped relays that are known to be good relays for E and F it appears that f is the key and the reason the lights stay on. Not sure whats going on, and why if A B C D and E are all energized at the end of a ball they will reset normally but if f is energized it wont reset.

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#707 11 months ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Struggling to figure out why if the E and F targets are hit they will remain lit and the double bonus relay pulls in, and stays in for the rest of the game, even when the ball drains and goes to a multiplayer game every player gets the benefit of the double bonus relay being stuck on until end of game. I have checked the out hole switches I have checked and swapped relays that are known to be good relays for E and F it appears that f is the key and the reason the lights stay on. Not sure whats going on, and why if A B C D and E are all energized at the end of a ball they will reset normally but if f is energized it wont reset.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That Normally Closed Switch on the Outhole Relay is not opening when the relay energizes. Or there is some sort of short such as a solder splash, broken bakelite or insulator sleeve etc. Gray-blue and Green wires are wired to that switch.

Standard troubleshooting techniques apply.

#708 11 months ago

Hi All. Any Criss Cross Pop-Up owners out there have instruction and pricing cards in your machines? I’d like to fill in the empty spaces in mine with something similar to original. I’ve looked around but the few pictures I’ve found of that area are pretty blurry. And they all look different. If you have anything, I’d sure appreciate a snapshot. Thanks.

#709 11 months ago
Quoted from MrBally:

That Normally Closed Switch on the Outhole Relay is not opening when the relay energizes. Or there is some sort of short such as a solder splash, broken bakelite or insulator sleeve etc. Gray-blue and Green wires are wired to that switch.
Standard troubleshooting techniques apply.

yes last night I took a toothpick and forced the switch open on that relay so going to have to dig deeper thanks for the confirmation of what I've suspected to begin with.

#710 11 months ago
Quoted from Larrymc:

Hi All. Any Criss Cross Pop-Up owners out there have instruction and pricing cards in your machines? I’d like to fill in the empty spaces in mine with something similar to original. I’ve looked around but the few pictures I’ve found of that area are pretty blurry. And they all look different. If you have anything, I’d sure appreciate a snapshot. Thanks.

Hi Larry!

#711 11 months ago
Quoted from MrBally:

That Normally Closed Switch on the Outhole Relay is not opening when the relay energizes. Or there is some sort of short such as a solder splash, broken bakelite or insulator sleeve etc. Gray-blue and Green wires are wired to that switch.
Standard troubleshooting techniques apply.

So I hooked up my meter and verified the switch with the gray blue wire and green wire is definitely opening when the ball goes into the ball trough switch, the outhole relay switch opens you can hear the solid beep stopping momentarily but then closes after the coil de energizes and still the E and F lights stay lit. Back to the drawing board...

#712 11 months ago
Quoted from MrBally:

Standard troubleshooting techniques apply.

Ran a jumper from the switch to the circuit board... someone had previously cut the blue gray wire so I clipped onto where they had Twisted them together I also touch the back side of each relay position number eight where the grey blue wire is attached.....same result. Not sure what to do next.

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#713 11 months ago

SOLVED! FinallY found the problem with Chicago Coin jukebox after unsoldering 3 circuits and running jumper wires...I noticed the double bonus relay would not D energize. Consulting the schematic the black wire from the Playfield saucer was holding it in, so i removed the wire and isolated it to this Playfield switch which was in a difficult spot to get two. To the naked eye the switch contacts were open but after checking it with a continuity tester and realizing it was shorted closed I removed the play field and took a closer look at the switch to find that the switch tensioner was actually shorting the switch! Signs that a previous Tech had worked on the circuit to no avail but Chicago Coin was no match for the PIN fesser...difficult to find problem solved.

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#714 11 months ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

SOLVED! FinallY found the problem with Chicago Coin jukebox after unsoldering 3 circuits and running jumper wires...I noticed the double bonus relay would not D energize. Consulting the schematic the black wire from the Playfield saucer was holding it in, so i removed the wire and isolated it to this Playfield switch which was in a difficult spot to get two. To the naked eye the switch contacts were open but after checking it with a continuity tester and realizing it was shorted closed I removed the play field and took a closer look at the switch to find that the switch tensioner was actually shorting the switch! Signs that a previous Tech had worked on the circuit to no avail but Chicago Coin was no match for the PIN fesser...difficult to find problem solved.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WOW! great job finding that

1 month later
#715 9 months ago

Looking for a casino owners manual. Anybody got a pdf of one? Thank you.

#716 9 months ago

If you come up empty, try jeff wager, andover massachusetts

#717 9 months ago

Schmatics on ebay right now. $ 15.99

1 week later
#718 9 months ago

I am working on a Casino currently. Can’t wait to get it finished. Currently all score reels reset but it won’t start a game.

#719 9 months ago

Do you have the score reels with the connector or the soldered wires?
Is the score motor spinning after the reels are cleared?

#720 9 months ago

Mine have the soldered wires. The score motor stops running but it doesn’t kick out a ball. And the playfield stays dead. Except the pop bumpers. But I think the pop bumpers are always live.

#721 9 months ago

Is the main bank of relays reset?
Is the tilt light on?

#722 9 months ago

It has been a few weeks since I messed with it. I’m trying to remember everything that was going on. There is a stepper in the bottom of the cabinet that was spazzing out. It is in the bottom on the rt side . Can’t remember if it was the first of second one.

#723 9 months ago

The stepper or the score motor?

#724 9 months ago

Definitely a stepper .

1 month later
#725 8 months ago

hoping someone can help me out. Looking for rubber ring chart for a top ten or gold record.

#726 8 months ago

No luck finding a rubber ring chart for top ten, would someone mind checking there game for size of the 3-4 big ones?

2 weeks later
#727 7 months ago

Hello. Anyone have a 1939 Nippy? Looking for some help understanding how the game plays and scores?

1 week later
#728 7 months ago

Did the games in the late 30s use a different size pinball? Smaller than the 1 1/16" standard size of later years?

1 month later
#729 5 months ago

I just joined the CC club.. I picked up a Prestige Puck bowler. I'm a few weeks off from diving into it, but I'm having a hard time finding anything on this machine. Luckily, it came with manuals and schematics. Looking at it briefly, it looks like some of the relay labels are missing or torn off on the back panel. What other machines are in this same class/vintage that may have some info about. I've worked on a few EM pins, but this is my first bowler. I don't even remember when the last time I played one.

#730 5 months ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

What other machines are in this same class/vintage that may have some info about.

I can't off hand address them by name, but I believe any of the C.C. Shuffles from the late 60s
to mid 70s would be pretty much labeled the same.
Might the Lock and/or Coin Relay label(s) be attached? If so, Lock and Coin 2nd and 3rd from the left?

#731 5 months ago

The bank of relays with the reset bar doesn't appear to have any labels. Unless I have to drop it down to find the labels? I haven't done anything other than spend about 5 min just giving it a quick look. I also have another label that is torn in half.

After zooming in on the relay board picture, I see something red behind the wire harness on this relay bank. Could that be the labels? I didn't notice it while I was doing my first look. I don't have the machine at home yet. I've got a few house projects to finish before I bring this home.

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#732 5 months ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

The bank of relays with the reset bar doesn't appear to have any labels.

The Relay Bank is missing the label strip. It should be on the Reset bar, but
the other labels look to all be there.
I'm thinking C.C. Ball Bowler Relay Bank is pretty close to the Shuffles.
The Start Relay is on the far left, and Game Over on the far right..
You'll want to go through the components, then maybe during trouble
shooting, we can match up the Relay Bank's coils, and I wouldn't be
surprise if someone else jumps in that has a C.C. Shuffle from that era..

#733 5 months ago

Now that you mention it, I may have that reset bar. There were a few extra parts he gave me and I remember seeing a metal bar. I'll have to take a look on Monday. I think pretty much everything else is labeled. In that second picture, one of them is torn and not sure what that one is..

2 months later
#734 88 days ago

My 1st Chicago Coin. It's an All Stars Pitch and Bat. I just brought it home from Pinfest. All I know right now is that it powers-up and pitches the ball and the bat mech does work. Any advise on things to look out for? I will be cleaning/cleaning/cleaning both sets of score reels and stepper units and jones plugs. Also be looking for broken wires or bad connections. I was able to get a schematic. One question I have is.... how many balls should this have in the game, right now there are only 2. I will start it's one thread as needed during this time of initial cleanup.

thanks
Steve

1 month later
#735 51 days ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Good deal!
Most likely the ball count not always stepping up is from another area.
Not sure if you have a schematic, but you'll want to check the closed switches in the Extra Ball Relay,
an open make/break in the Outhole Relay, and an open switch in the Ball Index Relay.
(Could also be a closed switch in the 2nd Ball Relay and Score Motor B2 and D3, but seems not likely)..
The Ball Index Relay needs to be energized for the Ball Count to step up.
The Ball Index Relay energizes from a make/break in the Playfield Runway switch, (and also an open switch
in the 100-900 Relay)..
Once energized, it remains energized from a switch in the Ball Index Relay itself, and a closed make/break
in the Outhole Relay..

Hi all, just circling back on an issue I reached out about last year as I finally have a solution, and wanted to make sure it was noted in case anyone else has the same issue.

I had a problem for the last few years with my Sound Stage not counting every ball drained. After checking everything else dozens of times it turned out to be switch C3 on the score motor not being closed enough. I adjusted the gap as tight as possible without touching and this completely solved the issue. I would have never thought that would fix it, but sometimes you're looking for something so complicated you miss the simplest things.

Want to mention I wouldn't have figured this out without the folks from Lyons Arcade in Rock Hill, SC offering me guidance. I reached out to them after watching their CCM Gun Smoke repair video on their YouTube channel.

1 week later
#736 40 days ago

Hi all Chicago Dynamics Industries (AKA Chicago Coin Machine) fans. Just joining this group. I've had several CC pinball and arcade games. Just now restoring a Hula-Hula with the goofy Flash-O-Matic that they loved to use in their gun games. Trying to reach Steve at PBR to see if there is a stronger flipper coil than the factory J21-375. Maybe someone here knows.
BTW: It is too bad, too sad that there are no recorded interviews (that I can find) with the CC designers, they came up with some clever stuff in the pins and arcade games.
Cheers.

Will in Alabama

#737 40 days ago

Sold my project Top Ten, I'm out of the club.. Sorry guys

#738 40 days ago
Quoted from wawhite92025:

they came up with some clever stuff in the pins and arcade games.

I agree. I had a bunch of CC stuff including twin rifle.
That game was intense when two players went at it head to head.

2 weeks later
#739 21 days ago

Some has asked me to create a reproduction file for the Manufacturer's Certificate.
He has send me a straight-down picture, but for got to measure the size for the certificate.
He won't be back at the game for a month or so.
Can anyone help me out and send me the size for this label?

I also found another Certificate for which I also need to know the size.
Another straight-down photo or scan would be great!

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Chicago_Coin_Certificate_1 (resized).jpgChicago_Coin_Certificate_3 (resized).jpg
#740 20 days ago

I cannot help with your request as i currently do not have any CC games but i did want to thank you for your contributions to the hobby.

#741 20 days ago

Mine measures out to be 2.7” tall and 3.5” wide.
Another straight scan also attached

Quoted from Inkochnito:

Some has asked me to create a reproduction file for the Manufacturer's Certificate.
He has send me a straight-down picture, but for got to measure the size for the certificate.
He won't be back at the game for a month or so.
Can anyone help me out and send me the size for this label?
I also found another Certificate for which I also need to know the size.
Another straight-down photo or scan would be great!
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl[quoted image][quoted image]

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#742 20 days ago
Quoted from Jets_1479:

Mine measures out to be 2.7” tall and 3.5” wide.
Another straight scan also attached

Thank you very much for the size.
No model name?
Maybe faded is red?

#743 19 days ago

You are most welcome.
It’s a 1964 Chicago coin mustang.
I believe the paper is originally off white I don’t see any evidence it’s faded from red but I also do not know.

Quoted from Inkochnito:

Thank you very much for the size.
No model name?
Maybe faded is red?

#744 19 days ago

I shopped out a Mustang recently. It was deceptively fun to play. I had it sold before I even finished it, otherwise I might have kept it for a while. This was the add-a-ball version, and I really enjoyed it while it was here.

#745 19 days ago
Quoted from aahgo:

This was the add-a-ball version, and I really enjoyed it while it was here.

So there's a true 2 Player AAB version of Mustang where a player can build up the added balls
on one ball like on Pleasure Isle? I have a couple C.C. Broncos like that, but I'd really like to come
across an AAB Hula Hula.

#746 19 days ago

So I have both the add-a-ball Hula Hula and Pleasure Isle. You can stack added balls on HH, but there is not a notification of how many you have stacked like there is on PI. I honestly don’t remember if the Mustang allowed stacking added balls or if it just granted one added ball. I sold it to a friend so can check with him next time I’m over to his place.

#747 19 days ago

I am confused, if you can only add one ball in the game, isnt that simply the "special" option of extra ball instead of credit reward?

#748 19 days ago
Quoted from aahgo:

I honestly don’t remember if the Mustang allowed stacking added balls or if it just granted one added ball.

I looked up the AAB Mustang on IPDB, and it doesn't have a "Shoot Again" on the playfield, so
I bet it is a true AAB like Bronco. I understand Firecracker (which is from the same era) also had
an AAB version.
I'm sure Pleasure Isle is better, but how's the Hula Hula AAB?

#749 19 days ago

I’d give the nod to Pleasure Isle as a better player, but Hula Hula is still very fun. The “Flash” scoring is a neat feature and the center saucer will light up periodically for added ball or special (2 added balls). Five pop bumpers for some fast action up top. The red or yellow pops are lit separately and help with getting higher scores when getting them all lit up. Both Pleasure Isle and Hula Hula great looking games as well.

Regarding Mustang, it has “Shoot Added Ball Now” that lights up in the BG and no credit window.

#750 19 days ago
Quoted from aahgo:

Regarding Mustang, it has “Shoot Added Ball Now” that lights up in the BG and no credit window.

Ah, shoot added ball now. It sounds like maybe the balls can't be build up like
on your Pleasure Isle and Hula Hula..
I just went through a Gottlieb true 2 Player AAB "Hyde Park", and it definitely
deserves a thumbs up.

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