Dang, you learn something new every day!

That nutone “chime” looks irritating as hell. Wonder if there is a video out there to hear it.

Truth be told the Williams chime the game arrived with was perfectly serviceable, but it just felt out of place - I’ve played enough Williams EM machines to have developed an association.

Happy with the CC Chime, Gottlieb rebuild kit worked great (I also picked up the little bumpers instead of the foam strip).

I had a hollywood.
Chimes were ok. They chimed. Nothing really unusual.

Olympics/Super Star must have been the last CCoin (Jan 1975) to use wood block chimes
as TopTen/Gold Record had the door bell, at least the Gold Records I had owned came with the chincy doorbells.

I have an olympics. I will see what it has for chimes.
I think it is interesting that during a rather prosperous time for pinball, they were cutting corners.

Here link to photo from ipdb.org showing chimes for Olympics
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1711&picno=55564

CC was floundering mid 70s, cost cutting was creeping in post 1974-1975.

My Top ten has the doorbell

Recently got a Riviera CC from my aunt and uncle...and wouldn't you know the upper-right flipper just stopped working in time for quarantine. I now know what my project is going to be over the next few weeks!

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some very nice and detailed photos and close ups.
made me almost want the game.

Needs more photos

Any owners (Ljolitz rw68rsconv kdublu47 Brandie balzofsteel greeny ingmar jbes miami_pinball newhampshire @tadpole17)of Gin out there willing to take pics of the upper playfield plastics for me? I've got some time on my hands in the coming weeks and feeling artsy. I'm missing the "1000 When Lit" center piece and the upper left plastic. I've seen rough pics but nothing I'd feel good about using as a template. Some pics should let me trace or paint by numbers on some new plastic. Also open to tips from anyone who has tried to remake plastics would help too, total pinball newbie here. Many thanks!

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I’ll get right on it

I just posted the detail that I’d like to see when others share pics of their own machines....artwork is such a huge part of having a machine like this!

Wooden chime unit in my olympics

I've been slowly chipping away at my Sky Rider foster child - replaced the installed Williams Chime unit with a proper CC one, swapped out LEDs behind the glass and under the table (I like to keep the incandescent bulbs up top), tapped it up to 33 V (super simple in this machine) which made it a much nicer player.

I'm planning to spend some time messing with the other adjustments - in this case 3-ball vs. 5-ball, and add-a-ball vs. replay (for points), and anything else I can change - just to see how it goes. I like the Extra Ball outlanes (hit the drop targets to light) just fine, but kind of miss hearing the extra game knocker on points. I've rolled the thing (> 200K) a few times already because its not that hard to get extra balls on points. So I think I'm going to set that to replay to keep things a little sane point wise.

Any words of wisdom from CC aficianados regarding other things to look into?

Increase the angle to make it more fun and more difficult.

Great pics! There was a nice example of this game at an arcade in Alexandria Virginia I frequented on weekends called the ELECTRIC CIRCUS. There's a shot I perfected from the top flippers to score the bonus hole, from either right or left upper flipper... not a bad game at all.

Did that already - part of the motivation for tapping it up (flippers could not get the ball up to the top in normal)

The game gets so-so ratings on many sites. Honestly, I think there are some pretty straightforward layers of strategy that keep it engaging! It actually challenges you to illuminate the bonus bells/bumpers to get more points when you keep the ball in the upper playfield. The collect bonus kickout can be repeatedly "cashed out" if you have one or two of the bumpers lit up. If you have all three lit up and collect, you get the biggest bonus payout (9,000 points), but you reset the bumpers back to only 10 points (from 100 when lit).

Add in the fact that the center bumper is 10x, the real strategy is to get the center bumper plus just one other bumper lit up, then play in the upper playfield as long as you can and repeatedly collect on the 6,000 bonus as often as you can.

I've always had an affinity for pinball machines that have a distinct upper and lower playfield and this one has its entire strategy based on setting the stage and then keeping the play happening in the upper playfield when you have the optimal setting of bells lit up.

I maaaay have put a lot of thought into the strategies of this machine

Though often simple in concept, i have liked each of the cc pinball machines i have had. (4).

Very well stated... I had forgotten about the details of the center hole bonus, but remembering having to work hard to get the 9K payout...really takes me back to 1973 or thereabouts... that's exactly why this game, IMO is the best CC EM game of the seventies.

I enjoy Chicago coin's games too ,I think they have a certain look that makes them unique compared to other makes .I also like the fact that they were a full line amusement company making many types of games and pins ,
I've owned several in the past including a mini baseball ,fire cracker ,mustang , cinema and jukebox .I have to admit jukebox gave me fits trying to get working right ,esp those score reels
This is what I have now (the twin hockey was changed from a 10 to 5 cent game many years ago during it's last year's in an arcade )

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It's also good to submit pictures to IPDB. I would like to see more backglass-reverse pictures, especially from pitch-and-bat games.
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?mfgid=81&specialty=2&sortby=date&searchtype=advanced
Super Home Run (1954) has lots of pictures, but a backglass-reverse picture would help in understanding the triple-match feature mentioned on the flyer. Several other titles have few or no pictures.
.................David Marston

I have located a coil stop that will work for me. Thanks for suggestions and leads.

Looks pretty standard. Marco should have something

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Thanks. It sure looks right. They didn't have 130-2516 listed. PBResource.com has it listed as out of stock and I didn't think to call Marco. I did find that some recent coil stops I have didn't fit the brass coil sleeves used on the Chicago Coin game nor were the holes the same size or centered the same. A standard plastic sleeve would have to be shortened, a trivial task. If I need any more, I'll definitely check with Marco.

In any case, John's Jukes, flippers.com, has the part and I'll just have to wait for it to arrive from Canada.

JimdinTN: if that is not the correct stop, send me a pm.

Anyone have a source for schematic or any paperwork related to CC Super Hockey?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-gottlieb-show-boat-#post-5595126

Working on the lock bar and coin door on a Kicker. Does anyone know where I can purchase the coin door sticker and also the edges of the lock bar? They are removable and from being played, they are worn out.

Thank you

Alberto

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Pinrescue in Australia has the decal, or did a few years ago.

I thought pbr or marcos had the decal

PBR doesn't have a lot of CC specific parts, Marco either.

http://pinballrescue.net/Decals_Coin_Door.html

Bowlers!

I’m looking for a “ball lift bracket” that attached to the chain in the lift box of a ball bowler - picture below. Chris at STLBB doesn’t have it - anyone on here?

Thanks!

Bill

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Does anyone have an early 1960s Chicago Coin Parts Manual and can look up a part number for me? I'm trying to locate the bent switch blade for the hanging targets in a 1962 Chicago Coin Big Hit Pitch & Bat. The same mechanism may have been used in other CCM hanging target games like 1962 All Star Baseball, 1965 Big League, 1967 Bulls Eye Baseball, 1968 All Stars, 1969 Yankee Baseball, 1973 Baseball Champ, 1974 De Luxe World Series, and 1975 Big League. Thanks.

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I obtained a heavy weight blade from Pinball Resource and bent it to shape & cut it to length.

I was just searching for the same thing & I came across your post. Do you know of anywhere on this site or internet that has a copy of the cc super hockey? Thanks, John

I’m looking for a replacement goalie on a 1969 Chicago Coin Slap Shot head-to-head. Anyone got one laying around?

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there is one on ebay atm, has been listed about 5x

Picked up a 1958 Chicago Coin Explorer yesterday. Here’s a link on how it plays:

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Howdy all, been working on a CCM Sound Stage for the past couple years. It started out disassembled and stored in an open garage since being found in the trash in '85, but I've got it cleaned up, restored, and working almost perfectly. Been posting my progress and getting help through the arcade museum since I'm more of an arcade game guy: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=385944. I have one issue that I'm trying to resolve and figured I might have a good shot here.

I'm trying to find if anyone can provide some pics of the ball count step up unit wiper fingers and their order. An exploded view would be ideal, but I haven't come across one in months of searching. The 10k reel only rolls over on ball 2, and the ball count doesn't step up every time a ball drains. After a bunch of trial and error testing it appears these are related that at least one wiper is in the wrong spot. If anyone with a Sound Stage would be willing to share some detailed pics of the ball count wiper fingers, spacers and their order I'd appreciate it.

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I owned 2 sound stage but they are both sold.
I have an olympics and will look at that mech to see if it is the same.
Do you have the manual for sound stage?

Sadly it is much different.
Olympics is an earlier game made before they began using the molex plugs. The layout is different in that they soldered wires on several edges rather tgan bringing them all to one edge.

When the marked blade with red is in the downward position is when the unit is
totally reset. The other pic shows the wiper fully stepped up which is 10 step ups
from reset..

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On a parts hunt myself without much luck. Anybody have spare coin switch brackets for a late Chicago Coin / Early Stern coin door? Missing the mount for one of the switches on my Apollo Moon Shot Rifle.

-Hans

Mopar That's super helpful, but a side shot showing the levels of the fingers and spacer positions would be perfect. It's a pain to do I know, but certain wiper fingers make contact and affect each other and some are blocked by spacers. I think the two that I tagged 4 & 5 are at the wrong level and maybe should be touching? I've tried to take some pictures to show the order my wiper fingers are in numbering them with their approximate clock position. Not sure how helpful these are. Not asking anyone else to take apart their wipers for comparison (I used some copper wire in the mounting holes so I wouldn't lose the order or make anything worse), but maybe someone can confirm mine? PinballAir I do have the manual and schematic, but there's no exploded view of the unit, just that little diagram from my last post.

Starting from the top the order is 11-1-4-Spacer-8-Spacer-10-12-2-5-6 and then a large washer. I appreciate all the responses already, this is the best help I've gotten for this in months.

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Was there an indication that your wiper may have once been takin' apart
and not reassembled correctly?
Tomorrow I'll take a side view and let you know what blades should have
continuity with each other..
btw: You ever been to any pinball parties maybe 90 miles east from you?
A few collectors from Buffalo has been here..

6-5-2-12-10 should have continuity with each other.
4-1 continuity together.
8-11 continuity together.

Edit: This is how they're stacked starting from bottom and stacking upward:
1. Thick white plastic is on the very bottom
2. Circular metal piece that the wiper board's wipers ride on
3. 6 - 5 - 2 - 12 - 10 (yes, these blades have continuity with the circular metal piece)
4. Insulating spacer
5. 4 - 1
6. Insulating spacer
7. 8 - 11
8. And the top thick white plastic tops it off
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Mopar This is awesome and thanks so much for your help. I won't be able to try this configuration until tomorrow night at the earliest but will let you know how it goes. Because of the condition it was originally in it's hard for me to know if the ball count was taken apart before. It was outside at a hockey rink for about 9 years before it was thrown out for whatever reason around '85. My father in law grabbed it and stuck it in his buddy's open garage for the next 30 years until I got it in August of '17. Grease from a grill had leaked all over it, it had rats nests in it, it was a mess. Maybe someone took it apart in an effort to fix it all those years ago, no idea. I took the ball count unit apart to clean it last year, and who knows, maybe I made it worse, but I'm usually very careful.

There's a Buffalo Pinball group that broadcasts on Twitch, I imagine some of those guys have gone around Rochester for pinball parties. There's quite a few arcade and pinball groups around here, but it seems I never have time for the fun stuff, just the restoration work.

Mopar I changed it up to the specs on yours and it fixed the problem with the 10k rollover perfectly. It still doesn't count a ball every time it drains, but it's definitely more consistent. I'm going to keep at it. This was a huge help, and thanks everyone. Once I get the ball count working every time the machine will be back to 100%.

Good deal!
Most likely the ball count not always stepping up is from another area.
Not sure if you have a schematic, but you'll want to check the closed switches in the Extra Ball Relay,
an open make/break in the Outhole Relay, and an open switch in the Ball Index Relay.
(Could also be a closed switch in the 2nd Ball Relay and Score Motor B2 and D3, but seems not likely)..
The Ball Index Relay needs to be energized for the Ball Count to step up.
The Ball Index Relay energizes from a make/break in the Playfield Runway switch, (and also an open switch
in the 100-900 Relay)..
Once energized, it remains energized from a switch in the Ball Index Relay itself, and a closed make/break
in the Outhole Relay..