Isn't the actual arm used on the switch of concern? There are dozens of different arms on (often) the same, or only a few, switches?

Honestly, the 'operating force' is unnecessary - a metal ball (even a ceramic ball like a powerball) will supply PLENTY of force, no matter what the operating force.

Any microswitch should work - the latest version is the D3B, I believe, but it's been a while since I looked.

I actually found the switch in GBLE on the left ramp to be too stiff. About 20% of ramp shots weren't counting, usually very fast shots. I replaced the switch with a lighter trigger switch and it's now 100%. Now, Stern's arm/blade choice was bad as well, but adjusting it caused slow roller balls to hang up, so it was definitely a combined issue of switch stiffness and the blade choice. Either one being a better choice would have mitigated the problem. I prefer a lighter trigger switch to ensure that very fast shots still trigger reliably.

Again - the mounting method, case, is identical. The only difference is the electrical ratings. And honestly, if you're worried about puttin' 100v through that switch, you have bigger issues with your switch matrix.

Find the cheapest switch body you can from local electronics stores - DB1 through DB7. The ONLY thing that matters is the "-AA" for the actuator type, and the "-B1" for the terminal type. Operating temp won't matter, unless you plan on playing your machine in Space or on the Sun.

Other than that, the switch body is exact between the models so there's no difference in mounting or wiring. Take the old metal actuator off the old switch, pop it onto the new one, and you're good to go. Note that there are two locations for the actuator to mount - replace it in the same one for the same result (though, not necessary of you want to move it.)

Yeah.
A wrong actuator, (or badly-designed one..?) can cause ball misses (or hangups).

If the actuator is installed on the close mounting tabs, it increases the force necessary but increases the range needed to actuate the switch. When mounted on the far tabs, the force needed is dropped considerably, but the motion of the actuator is limited. (Physics, baby!)

A wrong actuator, or actuator mounted in the wrong position for the application can cause issues, definitely. Personally, I don't see that as a fault of the switch itself.

Kinda doubt it. I mean, I'm not familiar with every. single. game. out there, but look at the weight of a pinball (or ceramic ball, like the powerball)..

I replaced all the switches in my TZ with DB3's I got in bulk from Digikey (far cheaper than pinball life for the qty I ordered..) and haven't had an issue so far. But again, each game is different.

Db3 are fine

Lets resurrect this old thread It is still very relevant for me.
In my experience DB3 is fine for most cases, except where the actuator arm is very short or the ball needs to clear the switch from a slow speed. For example, DB3 switches won't do well in a Stern trough because a resting ball won't start rolling when resting on a switch.

I have been searching for a replacement switch for those rare cases where DB3 gives problems. This is what I found:
Correct switch:
Subminiature DA series http://www.mouser.com/catalog/supplier/library/pdf/Cherryswitches.pdf
DA3CB1AA (AA = no lever, 90gms operating force = 0.9N)
DA series is now obsolete. Also, In 2016, ZF bought Cherry.
http://switches-sensors.zf.com/us/product/subminiature-db/

Alternative:
C&K
LC series: http://www.ckswitches.com/media/1360/lc.pdf
LCGDF5P00HCU
for example:
https://www.digikey.nl/product-detail/en/c-k/LCGDF5P00HCU/LCGDF5P00HCU-ND/3753656
Would need a large order to make it affordable. The only difference with DA series is that it has a shorter 'overtravel'.

Non-suitable alternatives:
Cherry/ZF
DB series. Although DB2 has a lower activation force, it also has a shorter lifespan (less cycles).

Hartmann
MBF5A

Marquardt
1050 series (for example 1050.1102)

Conclusion: No easy alternative. LCGDF5P00HCU is the best match but is not available anywhere, a large order from C&K might make this feasible.

Best price indication I could find so far:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/c-k-components-lcgdf5p00hcu.html?p=11121390&ref=ECIAFeed

I ordered a variant of this switch earlier, the LCGDF5A10LCU, so I could compare it to the Cherry switch. I have not installed it into a machine yet but I think it is a suitable replacement. I just don't want to pay 10 euro per switch like I did then.

The db3 switch replacements used a special lever that had a round indentation on the blade

I have 50,000 switches and blades work perfect been making up all the different replacements switches for over 10 years

The Honeywell ZM series seems to be a good replacement for the DA series for its low activation force, but it has fixed levers. You would have to find the variant with the matching lever. ZM10B70F01 seems to be a fitting replacement for rollerblade switches, such as the Stern trough switches.
I'm going to try it later.

I'm still polling suppliers about LCGDF5P00HCU but no luck so far.

Would this work: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/db3c-a1ba/zf-electronics

$0.72 each (no lever), free shipping

The DB3 series requires a high activation force of about 150gms. For most cases, DB3 is ok. We are looking for an alternative for the cases where it is not ok.

Ah -- missed that part of the thread.

I got a pack of ZM10B70F01 Honeywell Basic / Snap Action Switches from Mouser
http://nl.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=785-ZM10B70F01

these require a *very* light actuator force. Ideal for replacing switches in Stern troughs. No balls getting stuck on the roller lever.

Unfortunately these have a fixed lever so you need to find the version with the correct lever if you need it elsewhere. See the datasheet for options.

I am going to try the LCGDF5P00HCU later, this should be a proper replacement for all other switches. Hard to get and expensive unfortunately...
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/c-k-components-lcgdf5p00hcu.html?p=11121390&ref=ECIAFeed

Very interested in what you find. I have also replaced switches and found that they can be quite different.
I had to bend the original actuator arm that I moved to the new switch to make it work.

The colour of the button is the force. Green yellow and white

Bringing this back to life.

This DB switch at Digikey indicates it just needs 60 gf: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/zf-electronics/DB3CB1LB/CH880-ND/1083873

I'm still interested in this thread. Any conclusions on the best switch after all this analysis? I don't like using the current available DB5's as I don't like having the bend blades after installing a new switch, it can make the trip wire stick up too high. Whats the best alternative source for the DA3's or DB3's ?

No easy answer.
First -- the DA3CB1AA had a "button" force of 90 grams.
The replacement series is DB3CB1AA which has a "button" force of 150gr.
The DB5 has a "button" force of 70 gr.
What max force really should be is anybody's guess.

The plain DB3CB1AA is a button type switch with no actuator provided. It expects the user to provide or reuse the existing actuator.
The DB3CB1LB mentioned above is the exact same switch but with an actuator preinstalled. This actuator is what drops the button force from 150gr to about 62gr... and the actuator that is installed is probably not the one you want anyways.

There is no Cherry (ZF) direct replacement for the original DA3's but the DB's are closest, electrically. C&K switches have three options for actuation force. The C&K LCGD part would have been a better choice except these have been obsoleted and are no longer available.

Low current switches (i.e. DB3C) tend to have a lower 'on' resistance than the higher current switches (i.e. DB5C) and are more suited for switch matrixes. Downside to low current switches -- they cannot be used for high current locations such as directly controlling flippers (although some people try this anyways).
The higher current switches (i.e. DB5C) tend to have a higher 'on' resistance than the lower current switches and are not intended for switch matrixes. Tradeoff -- higher button force versus higher switch resistance. Problem with the ZF switches -- they no longer post the 'on' resistance for their switches.

Thanks for the reply Ed. Personally I'm looking for the switch with no blade actuator, would be even better if it had the diode installed but not a deal-breaker. Haven't been able to find any DA3's so if I dare summarize, sounds like the DB3 is the closest. Has anyone tried these ? Any feedback on the force? Did the blades need adjustment?I tried the DB5 but found I always had to adjust the blade to make it work, not that that's a huge problem but would prefer more of a plug and play situation.

I had some trouble with correct switches on an Austin Powers - balls couldn't run down the through, as pressure wasn't sufficient to press the actuator down, so I agree with anyone wanting Cherry's with the appropriate activation force. At the moment I'm looking for replacement to 5647-12693-32, - 33 and -34 for my Theatre of Magic. These are sitting before the trapdoor and mine are somewhat lazy or just tired, so I'm ordering new ones. I don't mind experimenting, so I'm trying out this one https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/0517567/ for testing. It's without the actuator, but I'll just use the old ones as they are okay.

It is a European vendor, but I reckon you'll find it in the States too. If anyone is interested in the result, give me a ping.

Anyone with a comment on the difference between 5647-12693-32, 5647-12693-33 and 5647-12693-34 or their experience replacing them?

The one in the RS-Online link is simply a DB3C.
Without the actuator -- DB3C-B1AA
These can be found in the US at several places such as here:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DB3C-B1AA

The difference between -32, -33, -34? Just the actuator.

So the DB3C-B1AA is about 62 grams of force with the actuator, what were the original DA3's force with the actuator? Being pinball machine switches only use actuators that's the number I think that matters. I didn't have good luck with the DB5's from P.L.

You can't just say 'using the actuator' for a comparison as each actuator reduces the force differently depending on overall length.
The DB3C-B1AA is the no actuator version. It is a different part number to get the ones with an actuator and the actuator from the factory is most probably not what you will be using.

To compare apples to apples --
DA3 with no actuator = 90 grams.
DB3 with no actuator = 150 grams (full part number DB3C-B1AA or DB3CB1AA).
DB5 with no actuator = 70 grams.

Installing the same type of actuator on any of these switches will drop the force by the same 'percentage'. This percentage varies widely depending on overall length of the actuator and which set of 'nubs' you are installing the actuator onto (front or back).