Does anyone have a current source for the Checker Flag target 545-5244-00. Can't find anyone who has it in stock.
Does anyone have a current source for the Checker Flag target 545-5244-00. Can't find anyone who has it in stock.
Quoted from Orange_Julius:Does anyone have a current source for the Checker Flag target 545-5244-00. Can't find anyone who has it in stock.
I might have a couple. How many you need?
I might have a spare rim. Can check on the weekend. I'm in CA next week so postage wouldn't be an issue.
Quoted from Gryphun:I might have a couple. How many you need?
Just one, but taking a second look I think its OK just a bit yellowed. Going to try and retro bright it.
Quoted from Orange_Julius:Playfield is coming along nicely.
Damn sexy right there...love the carbon fiber wrap.
Quoted from pocketscience:I might have a spare rim. Can check on the weekend. I'm in CA next week so postage wouldn't be an issue.
Thanks Pocket. I have a NOS rim and am actually only looking for the paper cutout part of the rim - 'mirrored paper'.
If you have that paper cut-out, that would be awesome.
Quoted from Gryphun:Thanks Pocket. I have a NOS rim and am actually only looking for the paper cutout part of the rim - 'mirrored paper'.
If you have that paper cut-out, that would be awesome.
Didn't even know there was a paper cut out there, was not in my last NOS plastics set.
Question for you Checkpoint people. Is there any way to adjust the "speed" that is registered on the ramp besides moving the switches closer together? Moving the swithces would be hard as they fit real nice where they are so I am not doing that. I may have mine set up at a pretty high angle. The flippers are pretty strong, but getting 175mph seems harder than it should be.
I just cleaned mine and replaced a bunch of bulbs with LEDs. Looks great, but is a little crazy when the lights flash.
Also I am wondering if a piece of weatherstripping tape applied under the metal deflector shield would reduce the crazy airballs when you hit the rubbers behind the 3 drop targets. I feel that the ball hits the rubbers and ounces into the shield and that may slow them down.
I am trying to get it ready for Pin-a-go-go.
So I got my Checkpoint running again after replacing the rubbers and was going to get it out in the field for a local tournament. I played a few games to get it dialed in and the airballs off the middle drops were insane! Even when hitting the drops down I got a few crazy airballs that broke off my Pit Stop sign. I am thinking of replacing that metal deflector that is angled up with a flatter piece and see if that helps. I don't think we can adjust the flipper strength. These airballs were intense. Can't let that continue.
I saw you can however change the speed required to advance the tachometer in the settings so that answers my previous question.
Quoted from QuietEarp:So I got my Checkpoint running again after replacing the rubbers and was going to get it out in the field for a local tournament. I played a few games to get it dialed in and the airballs off the middle drops were insane! Even when hitting the drops down I got a few crazy airballs that broke off my Pit Stop sign. I am thinking of replacing that metal deflector that is angled up with a flatter piece and see if that helps. I don't think we can adjust the flipper strength. These airballs were intense. Can't let that continue.
I saw you can however change the speed required to advance the tachometer in the settings so that answers my previous question.
Are you using two rubbers around those drops. I have them doubled up on mine and that's prevented the airballs for me.
I did have 2 rubbers. When I got the game it had 3. I added a third after the incident and it helped a little. I may experiment with the arrangement and size of the rubbers. I would think that bigger and looser would be less springy.
When the target was up and I really hit it hard the ball got some serious air, which I thought was weird as the ball impacted the drop target and not the rubber.
I think that dialing down the coil strength adjustment may have helped a little, but I am still testing it out.
Sometimes when there is a multiball one ball will drain and the game thinks that both balls have drained. Ball trough switches seem fine, but I think the problem is there.
Quoted from Orange_Julius:The second Checkpoint cabinet is done, big thanks to ScottyC for coming over and helping out.
Still too many projects to get to mine!
Quoted from QuietEarp:Sometimes when there is a multiball one ball will drain and the game thinks that both balls have drained. Ball trough switches seem fine, but I think the problem is there.
I found what the problem was there. One of the ball trough switches was occasionally hanging up on a rivet on the switch assembly itself. I bent the wire so it didn't make contact anymore. Probably a potential problem on any game with similar switches.
Quoted from Crash:PinballSP has his color DMD finished for 128x16 Data East games!
To be precise he only released a new hardware design but he never showed a version fully working. So as long as there is no video I assume he has not even started with programming the firmware necessary for it to work. This if definitely the more time consuming part of it.
In contrary I have tested and released the first working version PIN2DMD firmware for 128x16 just today which of course supports full frame by frame colorization. Just need to finish the pcbs design for the hardware.
Here is a video from my checkpoint
Quoted from cp1610:like the look of that. Glad to see Dataeast games getting some love from color dmd.
It's not ColorDMD.com... neither of them.
my fault reading 6 different threads here didn't pay close enough attention. Still nice to see other options other then stock display which i like the look of. Probably will never change it unless we get full color then yes i may have to change it.
Project is coming along...
Ground braid done.
Now, time to repopulate the cabinet...
Legs are candy red (pretty decent match to the red on the cabinet) powder coat from Marco - quality is OK but could definitely be better. Also, the way that the legs shipped is pretty shitty - all 4 legs on top of each other wrapped with plastic, no cushion in between.
Redid the spinner decal and created a new image for the speaker panels - used real Fuchs wheels for the outline. All done on silhouette cameo 3. Bright yellow pieces are for testing. The speaker panels will be painting using various colors.
i always thought the spinning wheel would have served better as a TURBO boost. possibly turbine looking centrifugal spinning disk.
not so crazy about the speaker covers as i like the originals. but i do applaud your effort.i am sure they will look good when finished.
does anybody make the Porsche shield logo in the center of the wheel? my back glass is fine but seems most if not all have been rubbed by the wheel at some point. i was thinking possibly a decal from a model may work if the same size.
I really like Orange_Julius speaker grills! Turned out awesome. Never have seen a repro of that tiny logo in the backglass in any form
Quoted from freddy:needs the Porsche shield in the center! nice job!
Definitely. This will be my homework for tonight. Trying to get the silhouette to cut in such detail - probably will paint only black outline since colors might be too difficult.
Quoted from Gryphun:Definitely. This will be my homework for tonight. Trying to get the silhouette to cut in such detail - probably will paint only black outline since colors might be too difficult.
print a waterslide decal.
i need a new switch for the shooter lane. anyone know which one it takes exactly? the one in mine is all bent up and not recognized. manual doesn't list the exact part number. anyone have a picture?
Thanks guys!
Quoted from silver_spinner:i need a new switch for the shooter lane. anyone know which one it takes exactly? the one in mine is all bent up and not recognized. manual doesn't list the exact part number. anyone have a picture?
Thanks guys!
Pretty sure its this one
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=873
Finally getting back to my current project the other DE game saved from the dump/part out. This checkpoint is a re import from Argentina so it has had some hacking done to it in the past. Found all kinds of bs subbed parts stuff missing etc. Boards are all good now. Game is playable just looks loved. Got a rubber kit from marco been about a year ago finally getting back to it and have some questions for fellow owners regarding the posts and rubbers in the pictures below. The kit didn't quite fit right so after some looking in parts drawer found something that works. Question is this right or has past hacking screwed up some of these posts and which need to be changed for proper function. Or should i just leave it alone and play it. Not looking for a top tier restoration at current time.
I think you need 2-rings at the three drop targets ( last pic. ) . The post are for 2-rings and that area takes a beating from the flipper shots and might help save the plastic .
As TenaciousT stated. two rings are needed (per the manual) at the three drop target area. The four drop target area only needs one ring.
I had looked online at various pictures of the machine to try and gauge what was possibly right. Will pull the second band at the 4 drop targets and add one at the 3 drops. The plastic at the 3 drops is sad looking but machine had big metal guard put on top of the plastic like a deflector shield i will put that back seeing it kept air balls down. Similar type metal plate on my Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles but that plastic is trashed.
I have to give props to Gryphun and Orange_Julius have the two nicest looking Checkpoint's i have seen mine would be the ugly duckling of the bunch. I remember playing them in the wild back in the 90s. So when i saw this as is/parts one show up locally i got it figuring even i didn't save it the parts alone would have covered my cost.
I just add a Pin2DMD color display to my checkpoint. I believe this is one of the first installs of the Pin2DMD 16 line display. At this point it is just monochrome until some color palettes are created. I've taken a couple of pics to show how it's installed. The cabling is a little messy at this point but it's working great!
008 (resized).JPG012 (resized).JPG013 (resized).JPG015 (resized).JPGQuoted from dpannell:I just add a Pin2DMD color display to my checkpoint. I believe this is one of the first installs of the Pin2DMD 16 line display. At this point it is just monochrome until some color palettes are created. I've taken a couple of pics to show how it's installed. The cabling is a little messy at this point but it's working great!
Great Job Dan ! Thanks for the pics !
Quoted from dpannell:At this point it is just monochrome until some color palettes are created.
I can color that. It'll be the 2nd 16x game colored though If the factory dots are anything like the other 16x game I did, its all black and white without greys, so it'll be a lot of scene replacements instead of just color changes.
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