(Topic ID: 104121)

Checkpoint club and mod ideas


By MJW

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 468 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by pocketscience
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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There are 468 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 10.
#451 19 days ago

You need to ship air to Austrailia.
I did a batertown trade to there ground. Took months.
Pricey, but ultimately worthwhile for the right item.

#452 19 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I have sent out a couple ramps to be installed on Pinsiders machines. I have one more to send out and then will be running the rest. I can check for you, but delivery to Australia bay be fairly salty. I know that due to dimensional weight charges UPS and Fedex xharge here in the states now, its $50-$60 just to ship them from the east coast to the west coast of the US. This will will most likely preclude me from doing more of the larger ramps in the future.

I just shipped one from Phila to MD $22 fed ex
So yes costly shipping

#453 19 days ago
Quoted from freddy:

I just shipped one from Phila to MD $22 fed ex
So yes costly shipping

Shipping a 6 lb box 22"x33"x8" to CA is $83 via ground from my place. I am trying to get the box down to 4" thick, which drops it to $45. Then you can figure how much less it is the closer you are to PA. Goes down to about $16 for shipping from me to Pittsburgh. Crazy rates these days!

#454 17 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I have sent out a couple ramps to be installed on Pinsiders machines. I have one more to send out and then will be running the rest. I can check for you, but delivery to Australia bay be fairly salty. I know that due to dimensional weight charges UPS and Fedex xharge here in the states now, its $50-$60 just to ship them from the east coast to the west coast of the US. This will will most likely preclude me from doing more of the larger ramps in the future.

Thanks, I have a US address as I (pre Covid19) travel to CA a lot for work...

#455 11 days ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Unfortunately it wasn't where I thought it was. I had other CP plastics there, but not the centre piece. Really bummed as I know I have it somewhere. Will keep looking!

Thanks for trying! Is there anyone else who can help me out with a 600 dpi scan of this plastic? I have my game is real nice shape, just need this last plastic. Thanks in advance!

#456 11 days ago

Can someone please send me the correct way to attach this Spin & Win light panel....I can’t find any good pics of it up close and personal. Thank you
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#457 11 days ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Can someone please send me the correct way to attach this Spin & Win light panel....I can’t find any good pics of it up close and personal. Thank you
[quoted image][quoted image]

Check the thread. Someone posted a picture. There is a bracket that attaches it to the ramp. I never knew it existed.

#458 10 days ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Can someone please send me the correct way to attach this Spin & Win light panel....I can’t find any good pics of it up close and personal. Thank you
[quoted image][quoted image]

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#459 7 days ago
Quoted from dpannell:

Thanks for trying! Is there anyone else who can help me out with a 600 dpi scan of this plastic? I have my game is real nice shape, just need this last plastic. Thanks in advance!

Found it! PM your email address and I'll send it over! It's not brand-new but in decent shape. Also uncovered pretty much an entire machine's worth of NOS plastics. Yay!

#460 7 days ago

My CP just started this. After a few games the left flipper stays energized. I turn the machine off and back on and it's fine for another game then it energized again. It's low power not the full power when you first hit the flipper button. Any ideas where to look?

#461 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinsforfun:

My CP just started this. After a few games the left flipper stays energized. I turn the machine off and back on and it's fine for another game then it energized again. It's low power not the full power when you first hit the flipper button. Any ideas where to look?

Check the contracts on the left flipper. Sounds like it needs adjustment.

#462 5 days ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Check the contracts on the left flipper. Sounds like it needs adjustment.

I tried that even put in a new switch.

#463 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinsforfun:

I tried that even put in a new switch.

Different machine but maybe close to the same problem you are having....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jackbot-left-flipper-stay-energized

#464 5 days ago

Tip36c transistor on PPB board might be bad....I just replaced one on mine due to VUK staying energized upon start up.

#465 4 days ago

Hey all, just joining the club as of a few months ago. In Australia, near Canberra.

Noticed the drop target labels I got (from Marco specialties) are not fluorescent. Looking around for the fluro lane guides too as mine are smashed up, but not having much luck. Anyone have any leads?

(My DMD is glitchy also, mirrors one half onto to other. Will be replacing the cable and reburning the rom on there as a bit of a shotgun effort.)

#466 3 days ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Found it! PM your email address and I'll send it over! It's not brand-new but in decent shape. Also uncovered pretty much an entire machine's worth of NOS plastics. Yay!

Thanks for the help! PM sent.

#467 3 days ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Different machine but maybe close to the same problem you are having....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jackbot-left-flipper-stay-energized

Thanks I'll look into that as soon as I get out of quarantine.

#468 1 day ago
Quoted from R-64:

Hey all, just joining the club as of a few months ago. In Australia, near Canberra.
Noticed the drop target labels I got (from Marco specialties) are not fluorescent. Looking around for the fluro lane guides too as mine are smashed up, but not having much luck. Anyone have any leads?
(My DMD is glitchy also, mirrors one half onto to other. Will be replacing the cable and reburning the rom on there as a bit of a shotgun effort.)

Hey, welcome to the club! Didn't know the targets were supposed to be fluro! Mine didn't have originals when I got it. Never seen those plastics around - but the raw material should be available and if you have access to a laser cutter they could be whipped up pretty easily - I think it's just edge-lit as opposed to actual fluro plastic. I have a functional spare DMD if you get stuck, but it might be better to move to one of the LED units instead.

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