Looking good

Fantastic work! I could of used your talent when I needed a plastic made for my zac Earth Wind Fire a few months back.

Bravo

Let us know how they look in the machine once you are done in terms of how much light they let through!

I would be interested in Stern Quicksilver if you're looking to make other titles.

nice work

This is process color though right? You said you tried to match PMS codes, but digital direct doesn't sound like you're using spot color inks.

Very curious to see the end result!

I also am looking forward to the results. Getting the art converted to vector is somewhat easy (for those with graphics experience) depending on how it is drawn. Getting the material cut is a little harder but still pretty straightforward with the right equipment. The trick is in the printing. Especially white color. That is why everyone is so interested to see how it comes out.

Another pinsider ryanclayton has done some nice ones in this fashion. But he has kept the details of the print process as a bit of a secret so far (no problem with that decision, just noting it).

I agree with Aurich, it is interesting to know if it is a digital print or process print. Again especially concerning any white color that needs to be put down.

Your designs have lots of white that needs to be put down so they will make a good example!

You're hired!

Now how soon can you get to all the other Williams classics that nobody else seems to be able to do?

Looks good but don't use acrylic plastic. Acrylic is too brutal for this application. You should be using petg.

Agree. Acrylic will not last. Personally, I would use Lexan (Polycarbonate)

Good point, I'd listen to the last two guys, they have collective knowledge that's tough to beat.

Can you laser cut Lexan? PETG for sure...

for example, Alien uses acrylic plastics. it took less than 5 games to break one of the plastics. Acrylic is a not what you want. PETG is the correct material.

PETG is what I make ramps out of.

"brittle" instead of "brutal" perhaps...

FYI I passed along your report about that issue to Heighway, not sure what they're doing about it, I'm not too in the loop, but hopefully going to PETG.

My understanding as a rule of thumb is that PETG scratches more easily, but is less prone to cracking and breaking, and acrylic is the opposite, more scratch resistant, but easier to chip and break. Given the nature of pinball I'd rather have the break resistance, scratching shouldn't be an issue, but ball strikes sure are.

Scratching is not an issue anyway. and you can flame polish scratches out of PETG. i guess you can do it to acrylic too, but it's more difficult. You can NOT flame polish lexan! at least not easily... it bubles!

I've told heighway about the acrylic issue several times. actually i've given them a whole laundry list of things to change to make the game better and more reliable. but they pretty much ignore me. i don't have an alien head either... they ignore me on that point too.

Curious to hear how this goes. I have some plastics for an Extra Inning that I've been looking for.

Your new ones are missing the part numbers which were originally silkscreened on the old ones.

Also, do your new ones have the white back masking like the originals did?

Shine a light behind them -- do they let through an appropriate amount of light? How do they look backlit? That is the acid test!

Is there a reason you didn't just do the holes with the laser cutting? Easy and clean, how I would have done it. The easy part being an especially good reason.

The colors look good, you're dealing with process ink dithering, nothing to be done about that, but given that limitation it's solid.

The white offset would bug me a little, I'd look at trapping it in a couple mm. Just critical in the name of discussion though, looks great.

+1

But wow, they look great!
I think you may have found your "side hustle".

The before and after examples don't really match, art wise. Also there's a lot of white overlap, you should dial it back a point or two.

But certainly a million times better than the old beat up ones!

Part numbers wouldn't matter to me either but I wouldn't say they were trolling. Many collectors demand the numbers and everything exactly like the original but to me not an issue either. They look super nice and I'm sure will look great in the game! Nice Job! The white mask background looks like it will most likely let in just the right amount of light too just looking at them. Super cool work!

Looks great!

Awesome job.
Nothing less than fabulous.

Excellent

Yes, they look really good -- looks like a winning technique!

What a coincidence - I just reproduced a set of Moulin Rouge plastics, too! I scanned the originals (which were rough but not as toasty as your originals) and cleaned them up in Photoshop. I don't have access to a laser cutter or a direct to plastic printer. I cut and polished the plastic by hand. The images are printed on glossy photo paper with archival pigment inks (no fading in the lifetime of anyone alive today). The images are mounted to the underside of the plastics using optically clear film. A ton of work (especially preserving as much of the tiny details in Photoshop as I could), but rewarding as an overall experience.

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Can you link the products you used?