(Topic ID: 256582)

Cheap tool for removing molex .100 and .156 pins

By Nokoro

2 years ago


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  • 27 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by slochar
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    #1 2 years ago

    What's the best, cheapest tool for removing the .100 and .156 trifurcon pins from a molex connector? I know best and cheapest don't always go hand in hand, but let's start with $15 and under, if possible. Thanks!

    #2 2 years ago

    Round ones ? Hardware store or hobby shop. Piece of brass tube. Get one that just slips over, shove down, pull out.

    LTG : )

    #3 2 years ago

    I don't think they are the round ones. This is the type:

    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5822-09076-00

    Also, the .100 size ones.

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I don't think they are the round ones. This is the type:

    Small jewelers screw driver. Push the tab on the back in, and pull up on the pin from the wire or top where wire goes with a small needle nose pliers.

    LTG : )

    #5 2 years ago

    I used a screw driver like Lloyd mentioned, otherwise a small craftsman pick set worked great to push the tab and pull, then I repinned

    #6 2 years ago

    Thanks! Having never done this, on what side do you insert it? The side with the little window that you can see the metal through, or the other side? I’m guessing the other side?

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    The side with the little window that you can see the metal through,

    That side. You can see the metal tab you push in, inside the little window.

    LTG : )

    #8 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    The side with the little window that you can see the metal through

    Red arrow points to the tab you push in.

    LTG : )

    0008520113 (resized).jpg
    #9 2 years ago

    Got it. Thanks again!

    #10 2 years ago

    Use a laydown sockets metal mounting tab and push that into the .156 slots to release. For .100 use the plastic tabs for keying and push them in the slots to release the pins.

    #11 2 years ago

    Plastic tabs from another .100 connector.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from Pinball41:

    Plastic tabs from another .100 connector.

    I’m not sure I’m following. I thought they were all metal.

    #13 2 years ago

    An xacto knife works great to push the tab in and push the connector out (while gently pulling on the wire).

    #14 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Small jewelers screw driver. Push the tab on the back in, and pull up on the pin from the wire or top where wire goes with a small needle nose pliers.

    Pretty much what I used although mine was from an electronic tool set. Worked great though.

    #15 2 years ago
    Quoted from GSones:

    An xacto knife works great to push the tab in and push the connector out (while gently pulling on the wire).

    Though I imagine that you have to mind your fingers. For some reason, I have a knack for cutting into my fingertips, sometimes requiring stitches. I’m getting a little tired of it.

    #16 2 years ago

    Oops it was a husky brand pick. Tiny to get in and a pick end the push down and help get the connector out

    I used this for .1 and .156

    image (resized).jpg
    #17 2 years ago

    Dental (metal) pick works well also.

    #18 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    What's the best, cheapest tool for removing the .100 and .156 trifurcon pins from a molex connector? I know best and cheapest don't always go hand in hand, but let's start with $15 and under, if possible. Thanks!

    small flat blade driver. One that just fits in the channel to push the locking tab down nicely. A sharp tip too can be harder to get on the locking tab

    My Hakko guns came with a push wand with a flat blade tip to clear clogs, I use one of those often too... Really I use the first flat blade tiny driver I find on the bench or whatever is close by.

    Probably a specific made tool for the job but not really needed.

    #19 2 years ago

    I just realized that I probably meant to order standard crimp terminals and not the trifurcon ones. Can someone explain the difference and whether they are interchangeable?

    #20 2 years ago

    Trifurcon are the way to go. More surface contact and better conductivity.

    #21 2 years ago
    Quoted from zombywoof:

    Trifurcon are the way to go. More surface contact and better conductivity.

    Thanks. So, both types fit equally well? One just has better contact and conductivity, is that right?

    #22 2 years ago

    Correct. Both fit the connectors, but trifurcon are superior.

    #23 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Though I imagine that you have to mind your fingers. For some reason, I have a knack for cutting into my fingertips, sometimes requiring stitches. I’m getting a little tired of it.

    I imagine that a small screwdriver is safer than something sharper and has better contact on the tab you need to depress. Knives are designed to cut.

    #24 2 years ago

    A trifurcon adds arms so it holds the pin 3 connectivity ways. The standard pin is just the spring side. Here’s pics

    12D807E8-F33A-41D9-9EF9-E9FF2FD9AF34 (resized).jpeg30E3BDF7-7CF5-45A8-86FE-6057A2315D12 (resized).jpeg
    #25 2 years ago

    I made one for myself out of a spare blade I found I never touched from a lock pick set. I used the Dremel or bench grinder to trim til it fit.

    IMG_20191130_113414633 (resized).jpg
    #26 2 years ago
    Quoted from CNKay:

    I made one for myself out of a spare blade I found I never touched from a lock pick set. I used the Dremel or bench grinder to trim til it fit.[quoted image]

    Nice! I actually have a lock pick set. I’ll check them out.

    #27 2 years ago

    Don't use trifurcon on Bally display connectors, they become impossible to pull off. I remember from way back when that trifurcons are for high vibration and that they don't necessarily provide the ability to handle more current (which seems counter intuitive since they do have more mating contact surfaces).

    I keep both types around and usually just use the trifurcons on the rectifier board.

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