(Topic ID: 126855)

Cheap Off Board Battery Holder (Make Your Own)

By altan

8 years ago


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  • 87 posts
  • 37 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by altan
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    There are 87 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 8 years ago

    I wanted to move some batteries off board. It seems like a simple process and I didn't want to do any soldering to the board (needed for many Williams games if you try and remove the batteries completely) and I didn't want to pay close to $20 for a pre-made holder.

    I made my own for around $2 each. I'll admit I think I read about this process years ago, so I'm not taking credit, just sharing.

    I order AA battery holders from mouser. They were about $1.40 each.
    I purchased some screws and eye-hole connectors
    I purchased some heat shrink toobing
    I purchased a wood dowel with diameter similar to a AA battery
    I already had some wire and solder.

    Adding this up, including Mouser shipping, and dividing by 10 (which is how many I'm making), it's about $2.00 each.

    And I made my first one in about 15 minutes, so it's pretty simple. I'll improve when I do my 2nd, but this post is showing my first.

    Here is the battery holder I got. I even paid a little more to get the snazzy ribbon to help remove the batteries.

    IMG_5610.jpgIMG_5610.jpg

    Below are the eye-connectors and screws.

    IMG_5613.jpgIMG_5613.jpg

    Instructions:
    1) Cut and strip 2 pieces of wire.
    2) Crimp one side of each piece to the eye lug
    3) Splice the other side to the wire from the battery holder. Do this for both wires. I simply tinned the wires, bent them into a hook and connected them together. I then used pliers and pushed them together, creating a weak connection. I then added more solder to get a good connection and used heat shrink tubing
    4) Use a saw and cut 2 pieces from the dowel where each is equal a AA battery width (make sure you include the screw head when doing this)
    5) Pre-drill a hole in each end, place the screw through the eye-hole and screw it in. Do this for each.

    You should end up with something like below

    IMG_5604.jpgIMG_5604.jpg

    Now place the fake batteries into the battery holder. Have the black connection on the bottom left and the red on the upper right (for WPC games at least)

    IMG_5608.jpgIMG_5608.jpg

    And place the real battery pack somewhere safe, like on the bottom of the head cabinet.

    IMG_5609.jpgIMG_5609.jpg

    And that's it. Enjoy!

    For my 2nd attempt, I'll not change anything significantly... But I probably will

    1) Be more careful when cutting the dowel. It splintered a little.
    2) Maybe paint the dowel pieces black
    3) Use a little screw and attach the actual battery holder to the cabinet. There is a small hole available for this.

    ... Altan

    #2 8 years ago

    Yup thats all you need. Why some people want to pay close to $10-$20 for a holder is beyond me. Nice job and I'm sure many here will find it useful.

    John P. Dayhuff
    Battle Creek, MI.
    269-979-3836

    #3 8 years ago

    I think I have found a project for the weekend! Thanks for the inspiration!

    #4 8 years ago

    Very nice, thanks for the post.

    #5 8 years ago

    Don't you need to add a diode to keep the batteries from charging?

    #6 8 years ago

    Here is what I have been buying from my local electronic parts wholesaler. $2.88 Canadian, so you might find them in USA cheaper. Nice 3 AA cell battery holder, 6" leads, cover, & on/off switch. LKG Industries - Rockford, IL, Philmore is top of packaging.
    http://www.philmore-datak.com/files/assets/basic-html/page248.html
    I just solder the leads to the board, no diode needed.

    001.JPG001.JPG

    #7 8 years ago
    Quoted from greatwichjohn:

    Here is what I have been buying from my local electronic parts wholesaler. $2.88 Canadian, so you might find them in USA cheaper. Nice 3 AA cell battery holder, 6" leads, cover, & on/off switch. LKG Industries - Rockford, IL, Philmore is top of packaging.
    http://www.philmore-datak.com/files/assets/basic-html/page248.html
    I just solder the leads to the board, no diode needed.
    001.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

    Wow, that's great! Will this only work for DMD games or will it work with early Bally's as well like Elektra?

    #8 8 years ago

    I only use for Williams that use the board mounted holder. When they leak I remove the original holder & replace with this. For Bally NiCad batteries, I replace with a cheap surplus new phone NiCad battery with leads, or Radio Shack fat boy NiCad. Most people are using memory caps instead for early Bally electronic pins.

    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from greatwichjohn:

    I only use for Williams that use the board mounted holder. When they leak I remove the original holder & replace with this. For Bally NiCad batteries, I replace with a cheap surplus new phone NiCad battery with leads, or Radio Shack fat boy NiCad. Most people are using memory caps instead for early Bally electronic pins.

    What's a memory cap? Is it an NVram chip?

    #11 8 years ago

    OMG, that's amazing! I wish I could give you 10 thumbs up for that. Will these holders still work with no diode? And have you ordered them before? What is the quality like coming from China?

    #12 8 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    Don't you need to add a diode to keep the batteries from charging?

    Electrically this holder is exactly the same as putting batteries on the CPU board. I cannot think of any reason a diode is needed.

    #14 8 years ago
    Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

    OMG, that's amazing! I wish I could give you 10 thumbs up for that. Will these holders still work with no diode? And have you ordered them before? What is the quality like coming from China?

    As an alternative, here is what I used.

    http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Eagle-Plastic-Devices%2f12BH331-R-GR%2f&qs=%2fha2pyFaduhUYKGeTLEyKvKq0TSY9%2fa7MdFPbaX%2fW8oAnuke%252bsBfGg%3d%3d

    It's actually $1.31 and cheaper if you get 25. Shipping was $7 and it arrived in 2 days.

    #15 8 years ago
    Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

    OMG, that's amazing! I wish I could give you 10 thumbs up for that. Will these holders still work with no diode? And have you ordered them before? What is the quality like coming from China?

    I'm unsure what games need a blocking diode, most of my games are WPC which don't need them. Elektra might need one if you don't use rechargable batteries so they don't explode. You can just search for a 4xAA battery holder. I use AliExpress all the time. It's cheap Chinese stuff, but you can't beat the price when you're ordering something that's hard to screw up like a battery holder. Shipping takes forever.

    #16 8 years ago
    Quoted from altan:

    As an alternative, here is what I used.
    http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Eagle-Plastic-Devices%2f12BH331-R-GR%2f&qs=%2fha2pyFaduhUYKGeTLEyKvKq0TSY9%2fa7MdFPbaX%2fW8oAnuke%252bsBfGg%3d%3d
    It's actually $1.31 and cheaper if you get 25. Shipping was $7 and it arrived in 2 days.

    Cool, you can convert that website to Canadian dollars too. I think I will order from the site you linked (Mouser) because the holders are metal instead of plastic. I would be willing to pay double to have the metal frame holders. Thanks a lot for the link!

    #17 8 years ago

    I know mouser says metal, but they are not. They are plastic and look exactly as shown in my picture as well as on mouser's site.

    #18 8 years ago

    Just got these at 95 cents. Free and quick shipping.
    ebay.com link: 5 Pcs New 4 AA 2A Battery 6V Holder Box Case with Switch 7 Lead Black

    Eric

    #19 8 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    Don't you need to add a diode to keep the batteries from charging?

    WPC cpu boards don't charge the batteries so a diode is not needed.

    #20 8 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    WPC cpu boards don't charge the batteries so a diode is not needed.

    If I wanted to directly solder the new off board battery pack directly to the WPC CPU board like greatwichjohn does how would I do that? Just solder to the two old battery terminals like the first pic in this thread instead of using the wood dowels? One of the battery packs I'm replacing has really bad corrosion from a leaking battery. Thanks in advance for your advice.

    #21 8 years ago

    One upgrade you might consider - an in-line connector, especially if you're going to screw the holders into the backbox. Makes it easier to remove the board to service it.

    #22 8 years ago
    Quoted from johnwartjr:

    One upgrade you might consider - an in-line connector, especially if you're going to screw the holders into the backbox. Makes it easier to remove the board to service it.

    What is an in-line connector? A molex connector?

    #23 8 years ago

    One upgrade you might consider - an in-line connector, especially if you're going to screw the holders into the backbox. Makes it easier to remove the board to service it.

    You can just remove the dowels from the battery holder

    #24 8 years ago
    Quoted from smiley:

    One upgrade you might consider - an in-line connector, especially if you're going to screw the holders into the backbox. Makes it easier to remove the board to service it.
    You can just remove the dowels from the battery holder

    Sure, if your board has a good battery holder. There was some discussion of soldering the leads of the remote pack direct to the board.

    If there's even a speck of alkaline damage on a battery holder, I'd recommend removing it so it can't fester in the background.

    #25 8 years ago
    Quoted from johnwartjr:

    Sure, if your board has a good battery holder. There was some discussion of soldering the leads of the remote pack direct to the board.
    If there's even a speck of alkaline damage on a battery holder, I'd recommend removing it so it can't fester in the background.

    My existing holder is terribally corroded. I cleaned it with alcohol but it still freaks me out that it's in there.

    #26 8 years ago

    Building a battery holder out of 1/2" PVC (all batteries in a row) takes about ten minutes including wiring. If you want to go even cheaper than the off-the-shelf battery holder.

    Now that's if you want to go REALLY cheap. Kind of cool though. Mounts differently, obviously.

    #27 8 years ago

    .26 cents.

    Priced right, even for the cheapest Pinsider:

    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/aa-battery-holder-5.html

    a-766.jpga-766.jpg
    #28 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    the cheapest Pinsider

    I think a new thread might be in order.

    #29 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    .26 cents.
    Priced right, even for the cheapest Pinsider:
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/aa-battery-holder-5.html

    a-766.jpg

    Vid beat me to it. Bought twenty of these on his recommendation, and it ran something like 7 bucks including shipping.

    #30 8 years ago

    I use hook and loop Velcro to secure the battery pack. If I have to take the board out the battery pack goes with it. That way I don't loose the settings. Joe

    #31 8 years ago
    Quoted from joe2012:

    I use hook and loop Velcro to secure the battery pack.

    Good idea. I've haven't started my 2nd attempt yet (at which time I'll probably make 5 at one time). I'll try this out as I have a good amount of velcro around.

    -1
    #32 8 years ago

    I can not believe all this battery holder talk. Nothing against OP nice tutorial

    The real goal is to not have alkaline batteries at all.

    So really the button cell holder for lithium coin cell is what you should be looking for.
    Or memory cap"super cap"
    Or nvram

    If you already have a remote holder buy the lithium AA. And put a sticker to use only that!!

    Regular batteries even off board does not really bulletproof the problem

    #33 8 years ago

    I think the goal is to avoid acid damage on the boards.

    #34 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    .26 cents.
    Priced right, even for the cheapest Pinsider:
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/aa-battery-holder-5.html

    a-766.jpg

    The wires on that look like 30awg. They probably won't stand up to a whole lot of fiddling.

    #35 8 years ago

    Good point. The one I got has 26 awg and I've had the wire break a couple of times while "fiddling". If that other one is 30, that would be trouble.

    #36 8 years ago

    You can solder any leads you want onto a holder.

    You really only touch it once a year when you replace the batteries on Jan 1st.

    #37 8 years ago
    Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

    My existing holder is terribally corroded. I cleaned it with alcohol but it still freaks me out that it's in there.

    I'd remove it. Just in case there's any crusties hiding under the battery holder. It happens!

    #38 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    .26 cents.
    Priced right, even for the cheapest Pinsider:
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/aa-battery-holder-5.html

    a-766.jpg

    I had a version of that holder that had 2 solder tabs instead of the wires. I really liked those, and they were cheap. Wish I could still find them inexpensively!

    #39 8 years ago

    I know your moving them off the board but when they go bad they can also outgas and ruin nearby boards. There was a recent one posted and display board across from the holder was hosed as well.
    So several inches lets say six and still did a good deal of damage.
    What ever makes you sleep good I guess.
    As far as wire gauge it will not matter the circuit needs micro amps.
    As far as soldering other wires on not easy good luck with that.

    #40 8 years ago
    Quoted from CNKay:

    What ever makes you sleep good I guess

    Agreed. I can actually sleep quite well with batteries on my WPC CPU board. But moving them off is even better.

    Moving them off board with this approach is...

    1) Exceptionally low risk (you basically cannot hurt your boards any more than you could by installing batteries the wrong way)

    2) Very safe. If batteries leak, it's highly unlikely anything bad will happen (if you mount the battery in a reasonable place)

    3) Very inexpensive. This is important if you have 10+ games, but even important if you have 1.

    4) Fairly easy to do.

    But as you said, whatever works for you. I personally would never do any of the other approaches. Cost too much, too little value, too much risk. All IMHO.

    #41 8 years ago

    Oh I found that post not only the mpu damaged but also display board from the gas.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-wacky-acid-damaged-high-speed-system-11-mpu

    So I would not sleep good having regular batteries at all.
    With lithium AA you need do nothing but put in a sticker and change them in like five years or more.
    And if you put pin in storage for 10 years the batteries may be dead but no worry of damage.

    Yes no need to change every year in fear of leaking, that is the only reason they change batteries so often regular bats will last two or three years easy anyway. Lithium have much higher mAh so easy 5 years.

    #42 8 years ago

    I've had batteries under 6 months old leak, they can't be trusted.

    #43 8 years ago

    I can't believe how cheap you guys are. Spend thousands on a pin & argue about remote battery packs. Just get the damn NVRAM & be done with it. Crikes.

    #44 8 years ago

    It's hard when you have 46 games...........

    #45 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    It's hard when you have 46 games...........

    I don't know about that Vid. Someone with 46 games should be able to afford it.

    #46 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    It's hard when you have 46 games...........

    46 games x $30 NVRAM chip = $1380

    46 games x 0.26 remote battery holder, Battery Holder = $11.96

    I'll go with the battery holders

    #47 8 years ago

    $30 vs $2 and the satisfaction you did it yourself...priceless!

    #48 8 years ago
    Quoted from fiberdude120:

    I don't know about that Vid. Someone with 46 games should be able to afford it.

    I did not buy them at today's prices.

    90% of them are leftovers from my operating days. Those games paid for themselves 100x over.....

    #49 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    90% of them are leftovers from my operating days

    Vid, so... How many of the games you operated had any battery issues that an off-board holder would not have resolved?

    #50 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    It's hard when you have 46 games...........

    you need to update your collection

    There are 87 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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