(Topic ID: 186269)

Cheap fix for Stern cabinets


By wtatumjr

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by wtatumjr
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There have been 10 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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#1 2 years ago

Here's my before pic

20170411_081258 (resized).jpg

#2 2 years ago

waiting on the edge of my seat!

#3 2 years ago

Ok get off seat and get beer. Go to hardware store and get this

20170411_133212 (resized).jpg

#4 2 years ago

Yes that would work I suppose but shouldn't have to do this to a brand new game at the current prices...

#5 2 years ago

Well that sucks. Just when I was starting to feel more at ease with purchasing nib again.

#6 2 years ago

Sorry about the wait. Pictures slow to download

#7 2 years ago

Very important to also mention is make sure screws are not to long.

#8 2 years ago

Screws are perfect in the package. About 1/2 inch. While we're waiting for my slow ass server. I've got to say while I've had things break apart they usually like to return to original position. This is more like the wood wasn't cured properly and warped
after assembly. I'm beginning to think the wood dried out making the seam split. It takes a whole lot of force to get the corners correct. That's why you'll need the larger braces I used and not something smaller

#9 2 years ago

I have used these since getting my second Ironman NIB, which reminds me these are how Dad did it, its how Williams did it, and it worked out pretty well until Stern didn't bother, I present to you the newest in Stark Industries cabinet reinforcement and protection

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

#10 2 years ago

My split was above the leg screws only so pinball life kit wouldn't work. They are still a great idea if your split is lower or you just want protection. I recommend them for GB or AS before you have a problem.

My stuff is downloading out of order. Here's the final picture

20170411_141450 (resized).jpg

#11 2 years ago

I'll send a pic of the notch out of the bracket which is necessary later . Here's the end cut you'll need to make with a Dremel

20170411_133937(0) (resized).jpg

#12 2 years ago

I LOVE PINBALL MODS

#13 2 years ago

I'm gonna wait for a cabinet cliffy protector.

#14 2 years ago

Here's the altered bracket for Aerosmith

20170411_135409 (resized).jpg

#15 2 years ago

Screw bracket to door side wall first. Put a removable spacer between left side and bracket. Later you will remove spacer and screw tight which will draw left side in to meet door side

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#16 2 years ago

Replace grounding strip. Touch up if necessary

20170411_140538 (resized).jpg

#17 2 years ago

I think it should have been pulled in a little more, plus some glue.

#18 2 years ago

I just use some wood glue and pipe clamps.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from NYP:

I just use some wood glue and pipe clamps.

I used Tight bond 3 wood glue and ratchet straps on my TZ. Worked well.

Edit: I took the ratchet strap off after the glue dried.

#20 2 years ago

you could use a strap to pull the cab in before installing as well

-2
#21 2 years ago

I just checked the Batman, Gb Prem and Aerosmith LE on our floor. None have any Cab Splitting issues. You sure that wasn't dropped?

JJ

#22 2 years ago

I've noticed the same splits on some of my older games.They were most likely slid around with the legs still on. Your fix is very reasonable and extremely feasible. Might have to look into this as well as glue. Thanks

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from pinbum:

Very important to also mention is make sure screws are not to long.

Well if you have a screw or 2 sticking out it may be more believable that it's original Stern quality

#24 2 years ago

So, for $5000-$5500, we should now have to do things after taking possession of our games to make things better that they SHOULD have been done from the factory?

Yep, only in this hobby do we tolerate this crap.

OP, I know you're ust trying to help, and I respect it. The point is: we shouldn't HAVE to do this for $5000+ products.

To know you could get a $4600 Metallica Pro NIB in 2014, and now the Pro price is over $5000, and we're having to resort to these DIY projects - it's sick.

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from Gexchange:

I just checked the Batman, Gb Prem and Aerosmith LE on our floor. None have any Cab Splitting issues. You sure that wasn't dropped?

JJ

Who knows what happens once those shippers get their hands on them.

box (resized).jpg

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Yep, only in this hobby do we tolerate this crap.

Dude: "What's the problem, frikkin L Bracket costs 3 bucks and some glue"
Old Dude: "90% of W/B cabinets were completely falling apart by the time they shipped them. Old OPs didn't even route games, they just threw them in the trash 10 minutes after unboxing."
Jackass: "Lyman will fix this! He's the bestest!!!"

#27 2 years ago

I am going to let glue run down the corner, than L bracket near top, and than put Williams leg brackets on mine. Problem should be solved.

#28 2 years ago

Any suggestions for putting a corner brace on the right side? The shooter housing plate is right there. Also what's the point of placing a wedge in there while screwing into the other side?

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Dude: "What's the problem, frikkin L Bracket costs 3 bucks and some glue"
Old Dude: "90% of W/B cabinets were completely falling apart by the time they shipped them. Old OPs didn't even route games, they just threw them in the trash 10 minutes after unboxing."
Jackass: "Lyman will fix this! He's the bestest!!!"

That got me. Lol

#30 2 years ago

Deleted post sorry wrong thread

#31 2 years ago

Lets decide how to powder coat it. Then Stern will see $$$$$$mod and add it as an option.

#32 2 years ago

Does anyone offer LED light-up mods for these L-brackets?

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Does anyone offer LED light-up mods for these L-brackets?

No that would be totally stupid, pointless, and just all around lame.

Now I'm working with some artists that are gonna lay down some sick ass purple paint on them bad L-babies with some racing stripes and TRIPLE FLAKE....sick right?

chopper5 (resized).jpg

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Any suggestions for putting a corner brace on the right side? The shooter housing plate is right there. Also what's the point of placing a wedge in there while screwing into the other side?

I used a smaller on top and a bigger corner brace below the shooter house plate.
Left side the same.

Was very easy to do, max. 3 Minutes per side.

The ones at the top are usually used for building chairs and fitted perfectly on top of the shooter house plate.

IMG_3126 (resized).JPG

#35 2 years ago

Looks good. I'll add some to my right side before it splits. It was only my left side that needed right now attention.

As to spacers/wedge - this is needed only if the joint is already cracked and you need to pull the side panel towards the center. Spacer should be equal to the crack size. Screw in door side first, remove spacer, then side panel screws. The trouble with this is fix only pulls in one dimension. I've toyed with the idea adding an eye bolt to each side of corner and then a turnbuckle. This would pull in 2 dimensions and would be adjustable

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