(Topic ID: 196809)

Chattering slingshots driving me nuts!

By phillyfan64

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

I know this has been covered before but I cannot for the life of me get the machine gunning slingshots on my Mata Hari to stop. I have adjusted them to no end. They leaf switches are new, new rubber. I cut the capacitors off. Still chattering. I put new caps back on because this machine misses way too many points without them. It doesn't do it all the time but it's enough to be a problem. it happens at least 2 or 3 times a game. I've tried all the advice here on other threads to adjust them. Front blade tight against the rubber. Front blade resting against the rubber. Front blade away from the rubber. I've tried all the different types of adjustments. Could something else be causing this? The contacts don't even look that close. Thank you.

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#2 6 years ago

I'd go over the fiberboard spacers between the leaf blades. Clean with lacquer thinner, and sand off the top part. To be sure flux or metal shavings aren't making continuity across the fiberboard spacers.

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd go over the fiberboard spacers between the leaf blades. Clean with lacquer thinner, and sand off the top part. To be sure flux or metal shavings aren't making continuity across the fiberboard spacers.
LTG : )

I've just finished rebuilding the slingshots because I thought they were a little sloppy. I had another thread posted here. I will look them over carefully. Let me ask you this. The leaf switches are new. The blade stiffeners are straight, not kinked like the old style. Would it help to put a bend or kink in those blade stiffeners?

#4 6 years ago

That looks like a Bally. Did you clip the orange capacitor disc off the switch? If not, do that.

I'm pretty sure those switches are open enough lol. You could drive a truck between those blades.

#5 6 years ago

I have similar issues after restoring my Black Knight too. I have also tweaked the switches many different ways. Oddly my old slingshots worked great. So I will be watching closely on what you come up with OP.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Would it help to put a bend or kink in those blade stiffeners?

Not for what is going on here.

LTG : )

#7 6 years ago

I cut the caps off even though they were not old. I had put them on months ago. I put brand new .047 uf 50 volt caps that I bought from Ed at GPE. They were still chattering without them. This game needs caps. It missing too many points without them.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd go over the fiberboard spacers between the leaf blades. Clean with lacquer thinner, and sand off the top part. To be sure flux or metal shavings aren't making continuity across the fiberboard spacers.
LTG : )

When you say sand the top part do you mean around the outside edges of the spacers?

#9 6 years ago

Did you clean the new points with a stiff white business card?
I had to do that with my flipper switch on TSPP.
They put a light film or oil in manufacturing sometimes to protect them until it gets to the user.

#10 6 years ago

Are those gold contacts?

Shouldn't they be silver on this era game? Those solenoids aren't CPU controlled.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Are those gold contacts?
Shouldn't they be silver on this era game? Those solenoids aren't CPU controlled.

All solenoids on an SS bally (or williams..) are CPU controlled.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

When you say sand the top part do you mean around the outside edges of the spacers?

Around and between the blades, yes.

LTG : )

#13 6 years ago

I don't think they are gold contacts. I got them from Marco. Part # 1A-120. I did not clean them but I will now. I checked for continuity between the blades. There's no short. The diodes are also new. 1N4004. They test ok.

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#14 6 years ago

I take it back. They do look like they are gold contacts.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I don't think they are gold contacts. I got them from Marco. Part # 1A-120. I did not clean them but I will now. I checked for continuity between the blades. There's no short. The diodes are also new. 1N4004. They test ok.

I got my left flipper repl. leaf switch from Marco too and had to clean the contacts as I stated before with a white business card. I was scratching my head why they weren't working when they looked so good. Not one issue since swiping the card thru them several times.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

I got my left flipper repl. leaf switch from Marco too and had to clean the contacts as I stated before with a white business card. I was scratching my head why they weren't working when they looked so good. Not one issue since swiping the card thru them several times.

I did clean them with a plain white business card with no change so far but I will clean them again.

This is very frustrating. I should have just left them alone. I was just trying to make them a little more powerful. I changed the leaf switches, plungers, links, sleeves, rubbers, and even the pivoting arms. The only thing I didn't change was the coils. No change in power at all.

#17 6 years ago

What size rubbers did you fit on the slingshots? (manual says they should be 2.5")
If they're oversize/loose they'll reverb back onto the switches too easily and become another cause of machine gunning.
Pull one of the rubbers back with a finger to make the rubber tighter and see if it makes any difference.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

What size rubbers did you fit on the slingshots? (manual says they should be 2.5")
If they're oversize/loose they'll reverb back onto the switches too easily and become another cause of machine gunning.
Pull one of the rubbers back with a finger to make the rubber tighter and see if it makes any difference.

They are 2.5". Brand new from Marco. I will mess with it tonight.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

They are 2.5". Brand new from Marco. I will mess with it tonight.

Take the sling rubber off and poke the switch with the end of a pencil eraser. See if you can duplicate the coil chatter doing this.
This will eliminate the rubber causing the bounce.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Pull one of the rubbers back with a finger to make the rubber tighter and see if it makes any difference.

I tried this tonight. The problem stopped completely.

Quoted from CUJO:

Take the sling rubber off and poke the switch with the end of a pencil eraser. See if you can duplicate the coil chatter doing this.
This will eliminate the rubber causing the bounce.

I also tried this tonight. The problem stopped completely.

I adjusted the front blades tighter to the rubber. That seems to have helped. It's not perfect but it's noticeably better. I will keep at it.

I haven't had a chance to take it apart and sand between the blades as LTG suggested. I will do that this weekend.

One casualty in playing the game without the glass. I broke a big plastic at the top of the playfield. Anyone that owns this game knows that the ball tends to jump and smack the glass at the top of the playfield. Not sure if the glass being off caused it but it sure didn't help.

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#21 6 years ago

You are right. That does take a beating. Ball launches off kickout saucer and smack!! Glad you got her fixed.

#22 6 years ago

Maybe the rubbers you got are too soft. They should fit rather tightly.

Pity about the plastic. If you want to repair it, might be worth giving this stuff a try:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-solvent-to-repair-pinball-ramps-and-plasticsend-of-story

#23 6 years ago

Thanks for the info. I might have a lead on a replacement plastic. If not I'll look into repairing it.

2 weeks later
#24 6 years ago

The chattering sling shot issue has been resolved by making sure the front blade was tight to the rubber, the back blade was opened up just a tiny bit more. And also, it's very important to have the blade stiffener tight against the rear blade. That keeps it from bouncing. They may not be quite as sensitive as I would like, but I'll take the trade off. Thanks everyone.

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