Hey there,
Had 2 lights out, both were all ok up to the board (1000 and Shoot again).
One of the 2 transistor looked fried, so I replaced both with TIP106. They are both now constantly on.
What have I done wrong?
Hey there,
Had 2 lights out, both were all ok up to the board (1000 and Shoot again).
One of the 2 transistor looked fried, so I replaced both with TIP106. They are both now constantly on.
What have I done wrong?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:What have I down wrong?
A TIP106 is a transistor. It is the wrong component.
These lamp driver boards don't use transistors, they use SCRs which look the same but function differently. The larger SCRs used on these boards are MCR106 or you can use the more commonly found C106DG or C106MG.
And up. Finally received the parts, did the change: no luck.
Could anyone point me to the right part that I could buy off ebay?
Still having issues with the 1000 and Shoot again lights.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Finally received the parts, did the change: no luck.
Can you post a picture of the parts you received and/or a picture showing them installed on the lamp board?
So those two lamps are still stuck on? Or is the behavior different now (never come on)?
If you disconnect the J1 connector from the lamp driver board, do those two lamps still light up for no reason?
There's no brand marking on that new SCR so it's likely a China clone. Not necessarily a bad thing. But for a test, I would swap around that new SCR at Q3 with one of the old ones on the board eg the SCR at Q8 and see what happens.
BTW when you say "1000" lamp, I presume you're talking about the right spinner 1000 (SCR Q40), and not the bonus 1000 (SCR Q14)?
That would be a Littelfuse SCR. Littelfuse doesn't put a brand marking on their SCR's but the part numbering and date/lot code matches exactly how Littelfuse marks theirs. My guess would be this is probably is legit.
If in doubt, do what Quench said -- swap with one that is known to work and see what happens.
Or -- check the gate pin to see if U1 is trying to drive it. The gate pin is connected to resistor R3.
Quench: yep; was referring to Q40
Yes both lamps were never on and they are still off now.
Ok, so I swapped Q3 and Q8; exact same issue, so you were right, it is not related to the SCR.
How do I test U1?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Quench: yep; was referring to Q40
Yes both lamps were never on and they are still off now.
Ok, so I swapped Q3 and Q8; exact same issue, so you were right, it is not related to the SCR.
How do I test U1?
put the game in lamp test and with a logic probe check the decoder output connected to SCR for pulsing that matches other working circuits.
almost never does the 4514 chips fail, its does happen but seems quite rare. If there is a problem on the PF it usually just kills the SCR
Thanks a lot but I haven't understood
Have a probe but never used it.
Could you detail a bit more how to proceed?
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Thanks a lot but I haven't understood
Have a probe but never used it.
Could you detail a bit more how to proceed?
black lead on ground. red lead on +5v test point. probe the decoder pin number connected to non functioning SCR. Compare non working circuit to working circuit while in lamp test. If both give the same pulsing signal the issue is past the decoder and into the SCR and wiring /connectors out to the playfield lamp socket.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Yes both lamps were never on and they are still off now.
Oh sorry, I thought those two lamps were stuck on. I misread your first post.
Follow what barakandl said and report the results. Since you have a logic probe it's a good idea to get a little familiar with how it works which will benefit you in the long run.
In lamp test mode when the lamps are off, the logic probe should indicate low signal on the decoder outputs (i.e. U3 pin 20 for SCR Q40). When the lamps come on, the logic probe should indicate low with pulse activity from what I remember.
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