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when I added grommets to the posts separating the return lanes from the outlanes, the ball gets stuck on both sides. The posts aren't bent. Do you think the slingshot rubbers could be too thick?
how do the blades mount? do you need to remove them to lift the playfield?
Quoted from jGraffix:Champion Pub GameBlades™ and Backboard Decal
Designed by Tilt Graphics Inc.com
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/champion-pub
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Question about sound rom upgrades.... I’m seein that S7 is the latest sound rom update. I just swapped game roms from 1.3 to 1.6 with a big improvement. Anyone have input on The Differences in the sound rom is and if it’s worth it to upgrade?
So my ball keeps getting trapped at the top of the right green ramp on the plastic. it's getting trapped in the bend of the wireform. I have all new plastic standoffs that I haven't installed, but can anyone tell me or show me pictures of what is screwed into the standoffs below the spot?
The circled area is where the ball gets stuck and the ? marks point to the posts that I may be missing hardware on. I could thread screws in there, but i want the proper hardware.
ball stuck (resized).PNGI’ve added a bolt to the post and put a piece of target foam on it to Prevent scratching the plastic, but the ball occasionally still get stuck in the wire form in the circled area. I may end up custom making a plastic for this area to prevent the ball trap, or some other yet to be determined fix. Am I the only one with the issue that the ball gets stuck there? See circled area on photo.
755D6242-B3C0-4430-B814-DC7C65030762 (resized).jpegFinally put my 1.6 rom in. I had to adjust my factory danger zone switch a little bit but everything is working great and no more double ball launch.
Quoted from whthrs166:OK I figured out the Speed Bag Issue: My speed bag is missing the "Stickable Cushion" behind the speed bag switch. The speed bag will not work without that cushion or if your cushion is worn out or damaged. The cushion keeps the switch from vibrating when it is hit. When switch vibrates the game will stop registering hits until the switch stops vibrating so there will be a pause between hits. This takes the "Speed" out of the speed bag. So you will only come away with two or three hits. There is a way to test your speed bag efficiency. Put your game into "Speed Bag" test mode. Close the coin door, take a ball and hold it against one of the fists with your finger, press the corresponding flipper button and let the fist knock the ball out of your fingers and hit the speed bag. The game will register the hit by showing the switch close (on the DMD) then toggle back to open (ready for the next hit) This should occur rapidly if there is a delay between open closed then there is a problem with the switch or the switch vibrating too much. When you press the speed bag you should feel that cushion. If you do not or if it feels loose the cushion needs to be replace. Fixed mine up this evening and put the speed back into the speed bag!
That’s good to know, thanks! Now get back to being speed bag champion
Quoted from Digduglus:Any easy fix for these decals? Mine are getting banged up[quoted image][quoted image]
I have high res scans of the originals. You could get them printed on vinyl at a sign shop
I just finished a shop job on my Champion Pub. Other than star posts, I found no plastic posts on my machine, so I have plenty extra plastic posts from the post kit I bought. Does anyone have a Layout of the plastic posts and a layout schematic of the play field plastics?
I also have no idea where the tapered rubber post sleeve goes. There’s no room on my machine in the side of the left jab assembly for it to go as shown in the manual.
Also, the aftermarket back panel sticker I installed looks great! You should put one on your machines
A3A94081-C84B-4464-B978-F12B92503A1D (resized).jpegF5D324D1-E2F1-451A-B15B-9B3217A00307 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from PStudart:Scroat, where did you buy these three decals? Looks very good.
What three decals are you referring to? The back panel decal is just a single sticker. The other two decorative pieces near the speed bag and jump rope are plastics and there is a sticker around the jump rope.
Back panel decal came from here:
https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/champion-pub/champion-pub.htm
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Yes... please do tell.
Thanks!
Kerry
Back panel decal came from here:
https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/champion-pub/champion-pub.htm
Quoted from PStudart:I was mentioning the backpanel decal and the floor decals at speed bag and jump rope. Thanks!
I ordered the floor decals from there too, and took them to a sign shop to have multiple duplicates made on vinyl stickers, so now I have plenty of replacements should I need them.
Quoted from Mtg381:https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/champion-pub
The side blades look great too. I haven't done the back panel because it looks quite a bit of work!
I think I have just bout everything to recreate that topper...pretty awesome!
The back panel decal was easier than I expected. just take it slow and steady and take lots of pictures. I have the side blades from tilt coming this week.
I have this nagging issue where my boxer’s right arm sags just enough to catch the ball only for it to be freed during the ball search routine.
It is aggravating I keep tightening the arm in the proper position but it always sags I think the force that the solenoids fire of the arms during boxing events is just too strong.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to tighten or keep the shoulder pin tightened to prevent this from happening? Maybe I need to use some locktite. I have a spare set of arms and I might end up grinding off just a little bit of the middle knuckle to keep the ball from catching, but I don’t want do that it unless I don’t have to.
I can’t remember if there’s a set screw in the shoulder pin or not. Any help?
Quoted from Buzzie:I am having an issue with the ball becoming hung up and stuck under the fighter’s right hand when entering that side of the orbit. Will whthrs166 suggestion solve this issue? Thanks!
Same issue. I had to take the boxer’s fist to my bench grinder and remove some material
Are you sure it’s a translite in your machine?
Mine has a backglass, and they are ridiculously expensive to replace. Be careful with the light box assembly.
Quoted from Merendino:I appreciate ya! I actually checked fuses right after posting (it's not my game yet so I didn't feel right about poking around on it extensively) and one was missing; also the lights for the translite were unplugged. All is golden now!
Looks great. Can you link to the green and red leds you used? I have a couple spare light boards that I want to try this on. Also, do you have any desire to replicate this for people if we send you our light boards?
Quoted from fur_dozy:Hey Folks! Just got a Champion Pub in fairly nice condition and have been going through adding the little touches to give it some extra polish. The place I bought it from loaded it with green LED's which I'll probably swap at least a good portion back out for warm white. Besides the basic stuff, I've done the following two things that I though you all might like to see:
First, I replaced the original life LED's with green and red LED's that are a bit brighter. I feel like it helps you track the life meters during fights in your peripheral. I had initially got some new resistors to go with them in case I needed to adjust the forward voltage on the diodes, but the original resistors were within spec and I like the brightness level I'm getting right now. Feel free to let me have it if you think it's hideous.
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Part of me wants to experiment with RGB LED's to perhaps have the option to change the color of the LED's from a green color when the bar is full, and fade to yellow then orange then red as the meter is emptied.
The other thing I added was the missing gate for the "on the ropes" section. I might post this info over on the thread on the topic, but I ended up using this bracket from Theatre of Magic(https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13869). I made a custom gate with music wire from the local hobby shop and connected it with this cord(https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-14252-2). It can be done cheaper if you don't mind buying the connector and crimping it. I will probably go back and fine tune the gate and square up the edges later, but for now it is working as intended.
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If anyone is looking at this and wants to do what I did with the gate, I'll just let you know that I put the gate on the bracket as is with the exception of the last bend on the side that rests against the bracket making it a one way gate. That way I was able to flex the whole thing enough to get it on there and then finally make that last bend that keeps the ball from bouncing back out after it enters.
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