Cool thread, hoping to add one some day to the collection.
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Quoted from Sticky:Is there a way to adjust the round ball stop that pops up? When a fight starts I rest a ball on this and then try to shoot for a jab. It's supposed to be angled for this, right?
On the right jab it's missing to the left and the left jab missing to the right.
Any ideas on how to resolve this?
I don't own one of these yet, I believe you are correct. It will probably be a flipper angle adjustment that needs to be made.
Quoted from Sticky:How do I adjust the flipper angle?
Flipper angle is set by loosening the clamp that holds the flipper shaft (on the underside of the playfield). Here's a thread that deals with it.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Quoted from Sticky:Thank you but you didn't include a link?
Sorry about that
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/advice-adjusting-flipper-angle
Quoted from ToucanF16:Have you guys seen this ad?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/41633
I sent the seller a PM (new member) saying he needs A LOT more detail and documentation to command that sort of price.
That is a high price!
Problem: Sometimes the boxer mech will rotate 1/4 and the whole game pauses. The lights go out (the flippers still work). 5-20 seconds later the lights come back on and the mech will finish rotation. This is random - it happened last night during our multiplayer games but I haven't played enough single player games to have it occur yet.
Any thoughts?
Decided to do a little maintenance on the jump rope gearbox. Pretty darn easy - take it apart, clean off old lube, add your preferred lube and assemble. The products I used were a small amount of moly grease on the gears and 3 and 1 electric motor oil for the shafts.
Here are some photos for your enjoyment. Note - my jump rope worked just fine. But it is driven off of a very tiny motor so I figured let's make it's life as easy as possible.
IMG_6753 (960x1280) (resized).jpgDSC03422 (1280x853) (resized).jpgDSC03423 (1280x853) (resized).jpgDSC03424 (1280x853) (resized).jpgDSC03425 (1280x853) (resized).jpgDSC03426 (1280x853) (resized).jpg
I noticed something odd - sometimes when I shot the left jab combo ramp the ball would rocket up it and fly over the left flipper! I decided to look under the playfield and discovered an issue.DSC03438 (resized).JPG The coil for the right flipper was stronger. So an order to Pinball life was in order. Now that shot is much better.DSC03439 (resized).JPG
Quoted from loanguy7171973:Hi Pub owners. I just put a bunch of my new and used parts up for auction on eBay. Here is the link:
ebay.com link
My best guess is far right far rear of the pf under the speed bag mech. I just had that mech out for a little rework. It seemed to me the wires get tangled up in that plastic when you are moving the speed bag.
Quoted from Topper20:This is a long shot , but does anyway have an old play Field? Mine is really blown out and I really don't want to pay for a new one. Game is in good condition but not to where I want to stick too much into it
Nothing here, but toss up a pic of your old one. I would like to see it.
My boxer was rotating very slowly. After poking around I found high resistance on the connector pins on the motor drive board. After taking the board out, I found the diodes have been getting hot and they had questionable looking solder connections (looked like cold joints). So new connectors & diodes mounted up a bit higher were in order.
An unexpected bonus is the boxer now moves more often during a match.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:Just joined the club. Needs cleaning, LED's and some work. Will post a photo whenever I finish shopping it.
Welcome
Quoted from Bendit:thanks! what kind of leds did you guys use behind the back glass?
yellow tint to preserve the old school look?
back glass is beautiful!
In my game I went with incandescent bulbs for the GI & in the backbox. Except for the bulbs behind the green lower curtains - those are 1 SMD leds (frosted dome). I also left the cheap orange leds that the PO installed behind the "Champion Pub" script.
DSC03428a (resized).jpg
Quoted from Bendit:-Boxer's right arm doesn't always go back down after the coil fires. When the boxer rotate back (to show the punching bag again), its arm gets caught in the ramp, binding the motor and crushing the ramp, and damaging the boxer's knuckles.
Possible culprit: Page 2-23, 1j and 1g: 4010-01186-04 (SS 10-32 x 1/4 SH-SCP(2)) and A-22188 (Plunger Assembly).
Feels like the arm linkage binds at its top position (when the arm is at its top-most position).
Below are the photos I took when working on my boxer. If you are good with mechanical stuff, I recommend taking out the boxer and take the arms and links off. Mine needed lube and I swapped the links (left to right). To swap them you need to move the set screw to the other hole. When reassembling I found if I adjusted the coil mounting bracket so the coils were nice and tight, the arms would hang up so I had to slacken it just a bit. There are also springs that help the arms return to the rest position. I may have more photos if you need. Keep us posted-
Quoted from Bendit:What pitch is your game set at?
(having issues with balls being released from the lock-post. I am guessing my game is not steep enough)
My lock post was hanging up causing multiple balls to release. You may have a similar problem with the post hanging up (but yours won't go down all the way). If you grab the post below the playfield it should move without dragging and snap back up when released. You may have to re-center the post mech or disassemble and clean the post, coil sleeve, & coil stop.
Quoted from Bendit:Thanks for the tip! My post goes down and up too fast, doesn't release the ball if there's more than 1 behind the post.
If the post isn't haning up, I would check or replace the 3 micro switches in the ball lock lane. The roll over wires may just need a adjustment.
Good luck on your repairs.
Quoted from evanc:Champion Pub was my first "big" pin purchase and first 90s pin! Before that I only owned a 1980 Stern Ali. I started in the coin op hobby only collecting video games and, of course, have found myself slowly wanting more and more pins. A friend and I played Champion Pub at our local expo a couple years ago and absolutely loved it. He sought one out, and happened to find one for me as well. I do have a couple questions, as a bit of a pin/CP novice. My up/down post in the very back center of the playfield sticks and doesn't go down all the way. So it'll be sticking up from the playfield a quarter inch or so and cause balls to lock every time, so Multibrawl starts almost instantly at the beginning of every game. Sometimes the ball is moving so fast it jumps the stuck post but usually not.
First question, how do I fix the post? Take it apart, clean the sleeve etc or replace the whole thing with new?
Second, even if the post wasn't sticking, why the heck is ball lock lit on the right orbit from the beginning of the game? Normally, wouldn't I need to hit the 3 beer targets to light lock? I noticed on Pinball Arcade it does the same thing. Maybe I just have the game set to an easier mode? I don't want Multibrawl to be some super easy thing to start!
Post I'm talking about is pictured. Thanks guys! It's such an awesome game!!!
The post on my game had a similar issue. When I took it all apart I found the roll pin that holds the two halves together worked loose. After tapping it back in place it got loose again. I ended up replacing the pin/plunger with one from Marco. I kept the original coil and brackets. Also make sure the pin isn't rubbing on the playfield (pin centered in the hole).
There's nothing wrong with going into the settings and making multi-ball harder. Default is the first multi-brawl is easy to get, the second one is harder. It's also pretty easy to get fisticuffs multi-ball and there is a setting to make that harder also.
Congrats on getting CP
Quoted from Evilelement:Starting my new topper, got a little more work to do
Looks great so far
I like the fact that it's not too tall.
A clear vacuum formed version of that would look neat with a little paint and lighting. Just a thought...
Quoted from mamefan:I'm originally from Richmond (went to Short Pump middle) and just bought a CP. I'm in Alexandria, VA now. Sorry, I'm not selling though.
Congrats on getting you CP.
Quoted from mamefan:I fixed it by removing the ball save post housing and drilling bigger screw holes into its metal mounting plate so I could move it a little bit.
Good answer
Quoted from mamefan:Mine stick out a little bit too, and balls sometimes get stuck back there instead of coming down the left orbit. I was wondering if that's normal.
Probably normal as a machine ages. But it's not the intended operation of the machine.
New video posted on the Pinball Mayhem channel! The Champion Pub "an intro". This video is brief (under 5 min) that includes playfield layout & cabinet details before any serious mods are done. Let us know what you think.
For those who are unfamiliar with Pinball Mayhem, here's the link to our thread here on Pinside-
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-mayhem-youtube-channel-thread
Stay tuned as this Friday (October 27th) we will be releasing The Champion Pub "Color DMD install"
Thank you
Jeremy
As promised, uploaded today is The Champion Pub Color DMD install video
Enjoy and let us know what you think
Thank you
Jeremy
Welcome to the club. For the jump rope, check the operation of the magnet. Perhaps the controlling transistor is flakey?
Quoted from smiley:There should be a blue rubber pad there
Yep, when I got my machine it was black from dirt.
Quoted from grunties:Awesome. Thanks everyone for the pic and links. Here's how my machine looks now. The pinballs have made a divot in the metal. I'll upload another snapshot after I add a bumper.
Wow!
Quoted from AttilaK:Hi Guys, I have had my champion pub for several years now ... great game, but my boxer seems to have some issues. It doesn't seem to function right all the time and very intermittent. As an example, it doesn't turn to the boxer when you start fight. I am thinking of rebuilding gear box, but maybe it can be opto issue too. Before I go crazy with it maybe someone here had a similar problem and was able to fix it. Any suggestions? I did look to see if gear box / boxer motor available but seems to be out of stock every place I looked.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Attila
Glad you are enjoying CP! With a non rotating boxer I would start troubleshooting using the test menu. The manual has good diagrams of the circuit. For other issues like arms not working or switches that don't work look at remaking the boxer wire harness.
Jeremy
Quoted from whthrs166:Just ordered color DMD for my CP. Do any of you guys have a color DMD and is it the LED or the LCD?
LCD, Here's a video we made for the install (shows some gameplay)
I really like it.
Jeremy & the pinball Mayhem Crew
Quoted from whthrs166:OK U-20 was the issue. Easy fix. I was easily able to press off 14 hits on the bag with my finger now.
excellent!
Quoted from DK:I got a proto CP going on route tomorrow! Wish it luck!
[quoted image]
Is there anything interesting about a prototype vs the production machine?
Quoted from Scroat:when I added grommets to the posts separating the return lanes from the outlanes, the ball gets stuck on both sides. The posts aren't bent. Do you think the slingshot rubbers could be too thick?
That is most likely. On my machine it is a tight fit for the ball.
Quoted from whitey:Anyone ever see a alternative translite for pub ? Any other mods besides color dmd ,
Thanks
Some change the blue bus to a more accurate diecast model. Someone made a 3d sculpt for the junk cars above the car switches that sit by the crane. Check the pics in this thread.
Quoted from whitey:Are we talking about The Pub ? Or Junkyard ????
DOH! (smacks forehead repeatedly)
Yep, I have both machines - sorry I got mixed up.
Quoted from jGraffix:Champion Pub GameBlades™ and Backboard Decal
Designed by Tilt Graphics Inc.com
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/champion-pub
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The game blades look great!
Quoted from daveddd14:How much would you de-value a Champion Pub brought back from Europe? Or would you?
I only have seen some pictures and it is a few hours away so I am trying to decide if I am going to view it or not.
Condition is most important. I don't think there would be any reduction in price just because it's a re-import.
Quoted from Scroat:So my ball keeps getting trapped at the top of the right green ramp on the plastic. it's getting trapped in the bend of the wireform. I have all new plastic standoffs that I haven't installed, but can anyone tell me or show me pictures of what is screwed into the standoffs below the spot?
The circled area is where the ball gets stuck and the ? marks point to the posts that I may be missing hardware on. I could thread screws in there, but i want the proper hardware.
[quoted image]
Heading off to work but here's a quick pic of mine
1551964905123622742297 (resized).jpgThe problem with that location is it's not used as a flasher. It has dimming and works as a spotlight to highlight the boxer. I have leds on all the other inserts and under pf flashers except that white insert. For some reason the red lightning bolts by the boxer don't have this issue.
Quoted from whthrs166:OK I figured out the Speed Bag Issue: My speed bag is missing the "Stickable Cushion" behind the speed bag switch. The speed bag will not work without that cushion or if your cushion is worn out or damaged. The cushion keeps the switch from vibrating when it is hit. When switch vibrates the game will stop registering hits until the switch stops vibrating so there will be a pause between hits. This takes the "Speed" out of the speed bag. So you will only come away with two or three hits. There is a way to test your speed bag efficiency. Put your game into "Speed Bag" test mode. Close the coin door, take a ball and hold it against one of the fists with your finger, press the corresponding flipper button and let the fist knock the ball out of your fingers and hit the speed bag. The game will register the hit by showing the switch close (on the DMD) then toggle back to open (ready for the next hit) This should occur rapidly if there is a delay between open closed then there is a problem with the switch or the switch vibrating too much. When you press the speed bag you should feel that cushion. If you do not or if it feels loose the cushion needs to be replace. Fixed mine up this evening and put the speed back into the speed bag!
Thanks, I will check out my game also.
Quoted from Bendit:Alright, I am having an issue (that was present before I added a ColorDMD):
Game sometimes takes forever to register a ball drain. And sometimes it will not serve a ball from the trough, and go to ball search mode.
I went into the switch test and saw that this switch was blinking on and off really fast (spamming the IO):
SW 46
Bag Pole Center
wht-blu grn-wht
What the heck is Bag Pole Center?
The trough tested fine.
Could be related: I noticed that the spotlights above the jabs are burning bulbs. Probably getting more voltage than it should? Light matrix issue too? Related?
Any direction would be appreciated. I'll reseat all my connectors tonight.... Thanks for any info! Cheers!
Bag pole center could be the main bag that's presented at the start of each game (backside of the boxer)
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Holy cow that head is hard to get back on. Adjusted the switches and now every hit registers, but the belly shots register twice per hit now so I guess I need to make it less sensitive. Not shocking but got the High Score #1 on the first try after having the ability to hit his belly turned back on... Anyone repaint their figure?[quoted image]
Belly shots can take down more health depending on game settings. At least that's what I'm thinking as I read this
Quoted from whthrs166:Oh and one more, have any of you guys ever knocked out all of the boxers by using the post to hit the jabs?
yes, I have streamed this a couple of times (YouTube - pinball Mayhem & Twitch Pinball_Mayhem_Jeremy). Using the ball saver post is a great technique to hit jabs and light knock out - then hit smart punch for a Knock Out. On my machine I have the boxers set tougher and the ball save post set to shorter. I don't have them set to super tough but tougher than standard.
Quoted from whthrs166:So I understand your position as being: Yes you use the post, and yes you know how to cheat by using Smart Punch once you hit both Jabs with the post. I am assuming you do not think it is cheating to use the Smart Punch. Are you also saying you have knocked out all the Boxers? Did you do it with the Smart Punch Knock Out for all of them?
While I haven't knocked them all out - after the first knock out (which takes 2 jabs) the next knock out takes 3 jabs (and so on). When the boxers are set to tougher and the post is set to shorter it is almost impossible to use the post for more than 2 jabs as your opponent has knocked you silly and the post is down. And it is not cheating. It is a risk/reward shot. I also use the post for shadow boxing from the skill shot. I can normally get about 3 jabs before the post goes down.
Here's a 20 min game on The Champion Pub where I wager points. Might be useful for those whom haven't played or own a CP.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/631662906?filter=highlights&sort=time
Quoted from Bendit:You can wager points with the latest version of software?
I believe it is in every version of software but I have not checked. You can wager after you have beaten 4 boxers.
Quoted from Bendit:How do you trigger the wagering process? Is it hard to miss? I've done it before, but not since I upgraded my rom version.
I remember the game stopping to prompt for a wager?
I believe you have to get past pub champion (this is not the wizard mode). Then it's wagering when you start a fight and picking you boxer to fight against.
Quoted from whthrs166:Once you become Pub Champion and get all the jewels, The next fight can be a Wager fight.
You can become pub champion without getting all the jewels. You must be Pub Champion to Wager fight. Getting all the jewels gets you to the ultimate challenge. Below taken from Planetary pinball rules sheet https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/games/pub/rules.html
Ultimate Challenge
To start this mode three conditions have to be met:
You must be Pub Champ
Have all the jewels in the belt
Have a full Life Bar
Quoted from gliebig:My Pubs right sling and right inlane lights are out. Don't have the manual. Where should I check?
wiring, sockets
Quoted from Bendit:Hello! I have a couple issues with my game.
1) Jump rope motor takes 2 cold boots to stop spinning during the cold boot testing. Might keep spinning during a game too. Bad transistor? Thought? The jump rope opto tests just fine.
2) The lock post (that locks the 3 balls) is turning my game into a paperweight. It will not release the balls properly. The mech seems fine, but a 26-1500 coil is installed instead of a ae-27-1200 that is specified in the manual. My game is pitched at around 6.5 degrees, and the 3 lock switches test properly. The lock post doesn't stay down long enough to release the balls properly it seems. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your time!
Does the jump rope motor keep spinning if you repeatedly do the motor test? Transistor could be bad. You could test a couple of ways - by seeing with a meter if the game is commanding it on when it is acting up. Or grounding out the transistor repeatedly and seeing if it sticks on.
On the ball lock you may be able to get the plunger to stay down longer if you tweak the switch wire. Perhaps the switches are turning off too soon?
Quoted from Bendit:I see! So you are saying that the post comes down, and comes up not based on a millisecond timing, but based on the switch being released? Interesting. In this case, I would have to make my switch wires taller, right? Thanks for your suggestion (and your time).
That's my theory
Quoted from Bendit:It was a good theory, but it's false. The post is entirely governed by timing.
I think I found my issue. My damn balls are magnetized!!!!!!!
F me.
WOW! Thank you for the information.
Quoted from Scroat:I have this nagging issue where my boxer’s right arm sags just enough to catch the ball only for it to be freed during the ball search routine.
It is aggravating I keep tightening the arm in the proper position but it always sags I think the force that the solenoids fire of the arms during boxing events is just too strong.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to tighten or keep the shoulder pin tightened to prevent this from happening? Maybe I need to use some locktite. I have a spare set of arms and I might end up grinding off just a little bit of the middle knuckle to keep the ball from catching, but I don’t want do that it unless I don’t have to.
I can’t remember if there’s a set screw in the shoulder pin or not. Any help?
I looked at my boxer just last week. After tightening the arm screw I found the shoulder screw was loose also. I did use blue locktite.
Jeremy - Pinball Mayhem
I'll be leaving the club soon - it's been a fun 5 year run. But before my machine leaves I made one last video - how to remove the boxer and some tips and tricks too. Enjoy
-Jeremy
Quoted from whthrs166:It's been good having you here Jeremy. Your wisdom and support has helped many.
Thank you very much
Quoted from timlah79:Question about preventative maintenance for my HUO. Is it worth talking the time to open up and regrease the mechanics of the jump rope or boxer gears? I assume if these essential parts break they may be hard to find. Thoughts from long time owners? I've only had mine for under a year but plan to keep it indefinitely.
YES! While the original grease might not be dried out. There's no harm in freshening things up.
-Pinball Mayhem
Quoted from timlah79:Thanks! I'll pick some up. Any thoughts on best grease option? I'm reading that SuperLube or MBI / PBR Grease might be best? Or perhaps one of the kinds listed here at Marcos? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CHEM-LUBE
Superlube grease is good (larger tube - not the pen applicator). Or whatever you are comfortable with. These gears are so slow moving that it's not super critical. Be sure to lubricate the shafts.
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