just joined the club today!

thanks! what kind of leds did you guys use behind the back glass?

yellow tint to preserve the old school look?

back glass is beautiful!

Thanks Cad-Kid!

Here's a list of issues I am working through:

The Champion Pub - To Do List
(Top 2 items are game-stoppers. Game cannot be played with glass installed)

-Boxer's right arm doesn't always go back down after the coil fires. When the boxer rotate back (to show the punching bag again), its arm gets caught in the ramp, binding the motor and crushing the ramp, and damaging the boxer's knuckles.
Possible culprit: Page 2-23, 1j and 1g: 4010-01186-04 (SS 10-32 x 1/4 SH-SCP(2)) and A-22188 (Plunger Assembly).
Feels like the arm linkage binds at its top position (when the arm is at its top-most position).

-Ball Search mode while in play.
Page 2-34, A22221 (Disappearing Post Assembly). Up to three balls can be "locked" behind this post (each ball has a switch on the playfield). When 2 or more balls are behind the post, the post doesn't do its job. It partially lets a ball through, but the ball gets stuck between the post and the side-rail. The game will not re-try to fire the post coil while in ball-search mode. So the game is stuck forever.
Possible culprit: Wrong coil installed? Sleeve mucked? Spring too strong?
Page 2-34, Coil is AE-26-1500. Spring is 10-135.

-Right flipper has play in the linkage. Game could use a flipper rebuild kit?

-No bass / low frequency in the sound at all! All three(3) speakers produce sound though, but it's super trebbly, even when game set to medium volume. Very obvious when compare to Last Action Hero and STTNG (in the same game room).
Right speakers are installed? The right speaker in the head is much smaller than the left.
Replacement Speakers? Pinside post.
5 1/4 units from marco #5555-12856-00 ($15.95 x 2) (If you change both you need to change the speaker mount for the RH side)
Changing the bottom speaker out with a marco 6 inch 5555-12929-00 ($18.99 x 1) also made a good change.
(Of course you could just purchase a flipper fidelity sound system from Pinball life)

-Boxer's head has a crack at the mounting screws. Page 2-23, item 3b, 31-3064 (Boxer Head, Molded).
Might super-glue the crack to stop it?

-Speedbag spotlight doesn't light up. Since all the G.I. shuts down during speedbag, makes it hard to see the ball.
*FIXED* : Took the socket apart. One socket prong was closed too tight, so one side of the LED couldn't grab properly.

-Ball search mode while in play (Problem #1).
*FIXED* : Took apart the trough opto boards and cleaned the LEDs and receivers.

Also, if it saves people a couple keystrokes:

Boxer Arm:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-22188
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4010-01186-04

Disappearing Post Assembly
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AE1-26-1500
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-135

Looks like flipper link assemblies are:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-15848-r

Cad-Kid, thank you for your post! Great information!

backglass converted to leds. thank you all for the advice and suggestions! i used a combination of warm and cool 4-led wedges.

cool white leds are behind the green curtains and behind the purple suit guys (bottom). there is also one behind the female waitress.

looks great i think!

20170429_105406 (resized).jpg

What I did (if you want to do it on the cheap) :

ebay.com link: itm

and

ebay.com link: itm

Which is $29.88 including shipping, and you'll have some spares too.

What pitch is your game set at?

(having issues with balls being released from the lock-post. I am guessing my game is not steep enough)

Thanks for the tip! My post goes down and up too fast, doesn't release the ball if there's more than 1 behind the post.

Thanks. Those switches tested just fine. I will attempt to level the pin at maybe 6.5 degrees, and maybe re-aligning the coil mech. Thanks for the tips!

What images/cards are you guys using for the card rule on the apron?

Both my cards are the crappy white ones with the big boring fonts...

Thoughts?

Thanks guys! Wow, these look awesome.

I have pinsound on my CP also.

I had to replace the entire WPC95 A/V board.

Get Pinsound board with WPC95 option and a new Rottendog Williams WPC89/S DMD Controller http://www.rottendog.us/DMD089.html board to completely replace a bad WPC95 A/V board.

(from my own thread about this exact topic)

CP sounds GREAT! Much better than the original sounds that were ouput from the original WPC95 A/V board. The highs, the lows, all better representations now.

Could you please provide a picture of the lit arm ramps? I'd like to see that. Thanks!

Wow. Look at that. Thanks for the pic!

Wow!!!!

Congrats!

But good luck finding the real original backglass (if you don't already have it). That's a pricey "mod" indeed!

I bet it is!

Great work!

Wow! Beautiful!

I am actually adding ColorDMD to CP as well! In about 20 mins, when I'm done with STTNG...

I'll need to do some cable management. ColorDMD, Pinsound and a separate DMD driver board (since I am not using the old WPC95 AV board anymore).

CP ColorDMD (resized).jpg

Alright, I am having an issue (that was present before I added a ColorDMD):

Game sometimes takes forever to register a ball drain. And sometimes it will not serve a ball from the trough, and go to ball search mode.

I went into the switch test and saw that this switch was blinking on and off really fast (spamming the IO):

SW 46
Bag Pole Center
wht-blu grn-wht

What the heck is Bag Pole Center?

The trough tested fine.

Could be related: I noticed that the spotlights above the jabs are burning bulbs. Probably getting more voltage than it should? Light matrix issue too? Related?

Any direction would be appreciated. I'll reseat all my connectors tonight.... Thanks for any info! Cheers!

I can beleive it. I have a LED screen on my LAH and it's vibrant for sure!

Thanks. I had to reseat about 5 connectors under the playfield! I am back in business!

Also, the back pole coil got disconnected, the wire clamp thingy just got lose over time. I should solder this sucker.

Also resoldered the right EOS switch. The wire just dopped. lol back in business there too.

So, now the question: How are the spolights on top of the 2 jab ramp supposed to behave?????

Wow thanks! Ok, so maybe the behavior I am getting in mine is normal. It's just that the LEDs that I have in those 2 sockets seem fried to me.

Now that you tell me that there are 2 intensities for them, makes more sense!

And you are right. When I got the game, the bulb holders were melted! What would cause that!? The transistor got stuck on and the bulbs got too hot???? Weird.

I reinstalled brand new spotlights on mine, and installed 2 LEDs. But like I said, I have not been happy with them. I need to take a voltage reading on these suckers.

Thanks again for your help/info! CHEERS!

Oh, before I forget. Do you have issues with the post releasing balls when they are locked? It doesn't seem like a good design to me. Sometimes when I have 2-3 balls locked, the post will not go down long enough to release a ball. It'll go in ball search until it finally does attempt to release again. My game is at a pitch of about 6.5 degrees. You'd think that would be enough. Maybe I can try to wax the metal post and the metal ramp...

Wait... wait. Are you saying that the bulbs in the spotlight holders are supposed to be flashers???

sssshhhiiiitttt! That's why. Jeez. Thanks. They were cheap LEDs anyways, so I don't care about them being ruined. That's exciting though, can't wait to see how it's supposed to look like. Oh man, I don't think I have white LED flashers on hand...

Hm. Ok, I see what you mean. Because one of the 3 switches might be a little harder to depress, it might screw up how the balls release when the post goes down, correct? Wow. Never thought about it that way before. It's not all the metal post's fault. Makes sense. But were talking about minute differences in spring tension, right? Jeez. Like I said, not a super-great design eh?

Awesome info. Thanks!

I found some 13v led flashers in my spare bag. It's warm white Omni directional, which is wrong for my game, but I got to witness the glory of a properly lit game! I found 2 big directional wedges too, but they're not labeled at all for voltage. Anyways. Again, thanks for your time. Cheers.

You know when you turn on the machine, the jump rope motor goes for a little while? Probably testing something?

What would make it not stop running?

I sometimes get this on my machine.

Thanks! I will attempt to clean the opto first. I wouldn't have guessed that it's trying to trigger the opto with the rope. Nice. Thanks!

Wow that's awesome!

I am, without the wpc95 board entirely. With the original mix.

You can wager points with the latest version of software?

How do you trigger the wagering process? Is it hard to miss? I've done it before, but not since I upgraded my rom version.

I remember the game stopping to prompt for a wager?

I just played and it did not ask me to wager before the pub champ fight.

Is wagering not a factory setting for version 1.6?

Thanks for the info guys.

So there's no wagering for the pub champ fight then?

(I've enabled "special mode" in the game adjustments. I have no idea what that does.)

Thanks! Makes sense now.

Hello! I have a couple issues with my game.

1) Jump rope motor takes 2 cold boots to stop spinning during the cold boot testing. Might keep spinning during a game too. Bad transistor? Thought? The jump rope opto tests just fine.

2) The lock post (that locks the 3 balls) is turning my game into a paperweight. It will not release the balls properly. The mech seems fine, but a 26-1500 coil is installed instead of a ae-27-1200 that is specified in the manual. My game is pitched at around 6.5 degrees, and the 3 lock switches test properly. The lock post doesn't stay down long enough to release the balls properly it seems. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your time!

My edit didn't post from my phone. Bummer. I think I found the issue with the #1 issue. The lighted cointaker topper tapped into J141, which powers the jump rope motor! Once I unplugged the topper, the game cold booted fine 4 times. I also noticed that the jump rope spins faster now during a game. The interesting thing is that the piggy-back connector on j141 appears to be professionally made (for the topper). Seems like the topper company and the previous owner really thought it was OK to power the topper this way? Hm.

I see! So you are saying that the post comes down, and comes up not based on a millisecond timing, but based on the switch being released? Interesting. In this case, I would have to make my switch wires taller, right? Thanks for your suggestion (and your time).

It was a good theory, but it's false. The post is entirely governed by timing.

I think I found my issue. My damn balls are magnetized!!!!!!!

F me.

Sure thing! I don't have other games with a huge magnet like the one used for the CP jump rope. Truth is, I should have thought about magnetism sooner! I spent months pondering why that damn lock post was not working properly!

Another symptom is the balls will stick in the ball trough and the game won't be able to serve a ball.

Again, obvious now.

Hi!

Question for you fine folks!

On a cold start, my jump rope motor just goes and goes and goes... I have to turn off the machine.

On the second cold start, the jump rope works just fine (it runs its test properly).

The jump rope opto tests properly.

Transistor going bad?

Thoughts? Thanks!