Champion Pub Club - Come on in & pound a few...

(Topic ID: 161029)

Champion Pub Club - Come on in & pound a few...


By Stebel

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 169 posts
  • 43 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by Scroat
  • Topic is favorited by 21 Pinsiders

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There are 169 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Just about there on my restore - hoping to have a fight or two this weekend coming!
Few mods along the way. custom posts, backboard decal and also infill in the blank area, protection on ab and playfield parts for to stop scratching etc, pinsound in but no programming yet, speaker upgrades and my favorite - custom punch ramps !

Out of curiosity, what do you intend to do with the PinSound?

There's no remaster of the existing WPC95 sounds available, and certainly nothing based on the original high quality masters available.

Otherwise, looks good.

#102 1 year ago

I have the original sound package ready to install. Initially I will load it up but then customise to my own taste with some great old saloon music.
I love tweaking the music on my machines almost as much as playing them to be honest.
The only ones I haven't altered are Attack from mars and Scared stiff as the original sounds are great. I am however slowly working on cleaning up all the voices and tracks into stereo and reducing the white noise and background levels. And setting custom boot sounds as well.

#103 1 year ago

I can confirm pinsound is working flawlessy and in glorious stereo on my champ pub as of this afternoon.
Few switch issues sorted and more light tweaking underway. Only thing I need to workwork out is why speed bag wont function in play but fine in test. Both ramp opto and rollover switches working.
Any ideas guys?

#104 1 year ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

My boxer was rotating very slowly. After poking around I found high resistance on the connector pins on the motor drive board. After taking the board out, I found the diodes have been getting hot and they had questionable looking solder connections (looked like cold joints). So new connectors & diodes mounted up a bit higher were in order.
An unexpected bonus is the boxer now moves more often during a match.

I wanted to post a SOLVED for my slow boxer in case anyone else encounters this issue. Began the investigation by checking this board as mentioned in post #47 - the previous owner may have been trying to fix this also as my board had all new diodes and two new transistors on it. It was really hacked looking and I've been looking for a new one since but I've not yet been able to find a replacement (if anyone knows where to find this A-22013 I would appreciate a heads up).

Anyway, my tech noticed the voltage coming into the board looked a tiny bit low (like 11.1 instead of 12.6) and it didn't look right on his scope so he said, "I wonder if you have a BR out?"

Into the backbox and (obviously the 95's do not have BRs) but come to find out one diode was bad on the powerboard. Keep in mind, everything else on the machine worked perfectly. If the game didn't have a Boxer Motor I may never had known the diode was bad. Just a heads up to anyone else who might be pulling some hair.

(FYI - this is not a pic of my board but just a 95 board pic I found on the web so I could show where the diode was)

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#105 1 year ago

I have pinsound on my CP also.

I had to replace the entire WPC95 A/V board.

Get Pinsound board with WPC95 option and a new Rottendog Williams WPC89/S DMD Controller http://www.rottendog.us/DMD089.html board to completely replace a bad WPC95 A/V board.

(from my own thread about this exact topic)

CP sounds GREAT! Much better than the original sounds that were ouput from the original WPC95 A/V board. The highs, the lows, all better representations now.

#106 1 year ago

All done. Tuning pinsound slowly. Video up on youtube.

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#107 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

All done. Tuning pinsound slowly. Video up on youtube.

Those punch ramps are awesome! Did you make those from a clear ramp set and an extra set of boxer arms or?

#108 1 year ago

Yes no green ones available currently only clear. So I bought two boxer arms and mounted them through the front lamp holes and put a flex warm white in the other hole to make the arms glow. Green felt on the base, pinbits stainless ramp flaps. All reversible. Bit of mucking around and sculpting with the arms to make them fit.

#109 1 year ago

Could you please provide a picture of the lit arm ramps? I'd like to see that. Thanks!

#110 1 year ago

Howdy partners! Picked up a Champion Pub and it's absolutely amazing, love this game! It's in amazing condition, plays awesome and goes great in the game room next to my No Fear. I have do add some more LED's to it, get a colorDMD and just some minor clean up/waxing and it's good to go.

One question, does your boxer move a little when the bag side is facing out and you hit it with balls? Sometimes when a ball goes up to the right side of the boxer and goes in front of the arm the ball gets stuck in front/under the arm and I need to wait for the ball checks to run through and the boxer to turn so it gets released. I did some reading and people have said that one arm can sag a little and you can adjust the set screw to bring it up a little and it fixes the issue. I'm just curious if the boxer should be locked in straight or if he is supposed to move a little?

Thanks for any info!

Scott

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#111 1 year ago

Bend it here you go. Doesnt photograph well with my phone.

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2 weeks later
#112 1 year ago

Hi All,

Just posted some hard to find NOS plastics in the classifieds section..

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/57427

#113 1 year ago

Wow. Look at that. Thanks for the pic!

#114 1 year ago

I'm on the hunt for a very nice example of this game if anyone has one for sale or considering selling one, please let me know and shoot me a PM. Thanks!

1 week later
#115 1 year ago

Pub in the house...and loving it! Just picked up a Champion Pub a month ago and it's great! Had to fix a few switches, add two arms, and add a new ball save post. Next steps will be to upgrade the EPROM to ver. 1.6 (occasionally 2 balls get launched), add insulation to fighter head switch to stop hard gut shots from registering as head shots, and figure out why the ball in jump rope mode won't seat quick enough for anyone to get more than a few jumps each time. Has anyone else had a problem with the ball in the jump rope area not "sticking" fast enough to pop it again before the rope arm comes back around? Wondering if the jump rope field needs to be more level or adjust the solenoid to pop more normal to the jump rope plane (straight up)?

Previous owner had the machine for 12 years. I asked him if he ever changed the batteries and he said: "what batteries?". Thankfully no leaks. The batteries say "best by 2005" so that jives with how long he had the machine.

Punch...punch, punch.

#116 1 year ago

Welcome to the club. For the jump rope, check the operation of the magnet. Perhaps the controlling transistor is flakey?

#117 1 year ago

Thanks. Yeah I'll take the assembly out and see what's up. The initial pop up to the jump rope field sits well. I'll look into why the magnet seems to loose its focus on the ball after a few pops.

#118 1 year ago

Quick question for all of you pub owners: Has anyone added a mod between "The Corner" and "Left Jab/Start Fight" lane? When I hit a ball halfway between the two areas, the end edge of the outer sheet metal panel for the "Left Jab/Start Fight" lane stops the ball almost completely and seems it would wear the ball out over time. I'm wondering if anyone has added padding or somehow an extra post there?

#119 1 year ago

There should be a blue rubber pad there

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#120 1 year ago
Quoted from smiley:

There should be a blue rubber pad there

Yep, when I got my machine it was black from dirt.

#121 1 year ago

Mine is missing that pad, where can you pick that piece up at?

Scott

#122 1 year ago

I'm guessing this is the part: http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RB-23-6766

The manual has the wrong part number (23-6579-1) which is a tapered rubber of which I don't believe there are any on the machine.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6766

#123 1 year ago

Thanks man! Greatly appreciate it!

#124 1 year ago

Awesome. Thanks everyone for the pic and links. Here's how my machine looks now. The pinballs have made a divot in the metal. I'll upload another snapshot after I add a bumper.

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#125 1 year ago
Quoted from grunties:

Awesome. Thanks everyone for the pic and links. Here's how my machine looks now. The pinballs have made a divot in the metal. I'll upload another snapshot after I add a bumper.

Wow!

#126 1 year ago
Quoted from bemmett:

I'm on the hunt for a very nice example of this game if anyone has one for sale or considering selling one, please let me know and shoot me a PM. Thanks!

PM sent, I have a nice CP for sale in the marketplace

1 week later
#127 1 year ago

Hi Guys, I have had my champion pub for several years now ... great game, but my boxer seems to have some issues. It doesn't seem to function right all the time and very intermittent. As an example, it doesn't turn to the boxer when you start fight. I am thinking of rebuilding gear box, but maybe it can be opto issue too. Before I go crazy with it maybe someone here had a similar problem and was able to fix it. Any suggestions? I did look to see if gear box / boxer motor available but seems to be out of stock every place I looked.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Attila

#128 1 year ago
Quoted from AttilaK:

Hi Guys, I have had my champion pub for several years now ... great game, but my boxer seems to have some issues. It doesn't seem to function right all the time and very intermittent. As an example, it doesn't turn to the boxer when you start fight. I am thinking of rebuilding gear box, but maybe it can be opto issue too. Before I go crazy with it maybe someone here had a similar problem and was able to fix it. Any suggestions? I did look to see if gear box / boxer motor available but seems to be out of stock every place I looked.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Attila

Glad you are enjoying CP! With a non rotating boxer I would start troubleshooting using the test menu. The manual has good diagrams of the circuit. For other issues like arms not working or switches that don't work look at remaking the boxer wire harness.

Jeremy

3 weeks later
#129 1 year ago
Quoted from grunties:

Awesome. Thanks everyone for the pic and links. Here's how my machine looks now. The pinballs have made a divot in the metal. I'll upload another snapshot after I add a bumper.

Oh My!

#130 1 year ago

I’m in! Just joined the Pub Club! Thank you for being here guys! Just read the entire thread and already learned lots. I just got my game yesterday. It supposedly is an HUO (looks like it) extremly low wear original boards, perfect cabinet and very clean. Has some lighting mods. This is my second CP. had to sell my first one a couple of years ago.

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#131 1 year ago

Here is one of the pf

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#132 1 year ago

Wellcome back to club!

#133 1 year ago

Ok so I have been doing some maintanance on the game and I took apart my back box lighting. This game has a real back glass in it. I contacted a fellow collector and he told me there were two real back glasses that you could get aftermarket. One was done by a company in 2006. The other was done by W/B in 1999 and was never put in the games The games all came with translights but you could buy the real back glasses to put in the game. Here is picture he sent me of two games he had. One has a translight and one has the back glass that was made in 2006. Can you guess which one has the 06 back glass and which has the translite?

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#134 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Can you guess wich one is the 06 back glass?

Both games have the same LEds in the back box.

#135 1 year ago

Here is a better picture of my game.

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#136 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Here is a better picture of my game.</blockquote

The answer is tricky.

#137 1 year ago

Just ordered color DMD for my CP. Do any of you guys have a color DMD and is it the LED or the LCD?

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Just ordered color DMD for my CP. Do any of you guys have a color DMD and is it the LED or the LCD?

LCD, Here's a video we made for the install (shows some gameplay)

I really like it.

Jeremy & the pinball Mayhem Crew

#139 1 year ago

I have a NOS playfield that's dimpled on the front and back if anyone needs it. Shoot me an email.

John

#140 1 year ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

I have a NOS playfield that's dimpled on the front and back if anyone needs it. Shoot me an email.
John

Can you post up a pic please?

#141 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Can you post up a pic please?

Sure thing. It's a little dirty but it would clean up very nice. Dimpled front and back, which I guess is rare for this playfield?

John

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#142 1 year ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

Sure thing. It's a little dirty but it would clean up very nice. Dimpled front and back, which I guess is rare for this playfield?
John

Thanks. It looks to be in good condition.

#143 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

the back glass that was made in 2006.

There is one of these back glasses on Ebay now for $699. It is the blue one (2006). The translite (purple one) is better than this one.

#144 1 year ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

I have a NOS playfield that's dimpled on the front and back if anyone needs it. Shoot me an email.
John

One NOS playfeild for Champ Pub sold on eBay in the last few weeks for $475 plus shipping as I was watching it.

#145 1 year ago

The one on the right is the translight. The left is the backglass. I have good knowledge of those two machines.

#146 1 year ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

The one on the right is the translight. The left is the backglass. I have good knowledge of those two machines.

Yes sir you are correct! So when you look my game it looks like it has the translate. It has the 1999 W/B back glass. It appears white from the back. I don't know what color the 2006 glass looks like from the back. (probably gray) Major color and detail difference the two Back Glasses.(1999 and 2006) There are slight differences between the translate and the 1999 back glass.

#147 1 year ago

My right boxer arm was cracked when I bought my machine last week so I decided to change it. Of course the old one came right off. The new one is a bit thicker so the original screw (5/16" long) is not long enough anymore so I had to replace it with a longer one (1/2" long). When I tried to fit the new one on it was too tight to push on, so I made a puller to push the arm on the mount. Just thought I would share this with you guys. I tried the hot water trick and it wasn't enough. I didn't want to use a hair dryer because I was afraid it would change the structural integrity of the plastic.

#148 1 year ago

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#149 1 year ago

Nice solution

2 months later
#150 10 months ago

So I have had my CP now for about 2 months. I have been noticing how hard the speed bag is. It is all I can do to score 4 hits. I checked the switch with the switch edge test and the switch works perfect. Looked for loose wires, mechanisms ect... No joy, so I just chalked it up to bad luck. Yesterday I decided that the bad luck theory was wrong. Took off the glass, started a game, got speed bag, then just started pressing the speed bag with my finger. The game would not register more than 5 hits. So now I am wondering if I might have a bad IC. Book shows U-20 pin 13 for Green and Blue and U16 pin 9 for Orange and green. I plan to investigate deeper today. Have any of you guys seen this problem?

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