When there is no ball in the outhole, this will open the outhole switch and it will prevent power from getting to the ball count step up solenoid. I'd check the normally open (NO) switches in the circuit that control power to the ball count step up solenoid. Check the following:

Ball index relay switch - grey/yellow wire and yellow/red wire
Score motor switch B-2 - red/yellow wire and black/blue wire
Score motor switch D-3 - red/yellow wire and maroon/blue wire

Check these switches to make sure they are clean and adjusted properly...

The distance between Player 1 Ball 1 and Player 1 Ball 3 should be 4 pulses of the Ball Count unit step up coil. So this could be an electrical problem or more likely a mechanical problem.

To tell the difference, on a single player game does the Ball Count unit step up coil pulse four times when the game goes from Player 1 Ball 1 to Player 1 Ball 3, or do two pulses advance it those four positions?

Hi DryDock
I pick the problem "You start a new game (therefore You start a ONE-Player-Game) - the ball kicked out is 'Player-1-Ball-2' ".

I look at the ipdb-schematics and show snippets of. I see "when the pin is started then the Ball-Count-Unit is (totally) resetted to (manufacturer calls it) Position-Zero. For us it is "Player-ONE plays Ball-ONE. So there is NO STEPPING (on the Ball-Count-Unit) ALLOWED when the pin kicks out the very first ball. But to kick out the ball: The Outhole-Relay must actuate. See lower part of my JPG - encircled red: The Ball-Index-Relay shall NOT PULL so Switch SHALL BE OPEN --- well, in Your pin ? Greetings Rolf

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Don't pay any attention to that guy. He's been posting "it's a wiring problem" in every thread he visits.

Hi DryDock
the Ball-Index-Relay is not allowed to pull-in when You press the Start-Button --- see the JPB - You must investigate on the "encircled orange" Switches.

A little "try" (it is not a fix - it shall help to learn about other behaviour of the pin) - You cheat a bit - You accept the faulty pulling-in of the Ball-Index-Relay BUT You toggle-off the pin and You sneak-in a stripe of paper into the Switch (between the contact-points on the two switch-blades) on Ball-Index-Relay to "keep the switch open" for the start-up procedure - does the pin then brings-out Ball-1 ? Look in the JPG in post-4 - the "encircled-red" switch on Ball-Index-Relay --- sneak-in a stripe of paper for insulating - then toggle-on and start a game - WHAT Ball is kicked out to the Shooter-Alley ? Greetings Rolf

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Hi DryDock
nice - the "cheating a bit" let You start a One-Player-Game - You get Ball-1 for Player-1. Now the pin is ready to launch the ball - carefully lift the playfield (pin is running / idling) and pull-out the stripe of paper --- can You play through the balls ? always on Player-1 ? then reaching "Game-Over" ?

Then toggle-off the pin - sneak-in the stripe of paper - sneak-in, toggle-on, start a game - the ball is kicked out - try to start for second player - THEN pull-out the stripe of paper (pin is idling) - can You play a Two-Player-Game ? Greetings Rolf

Hi DryDock
it is not very comfortable to sneak-in the stripe of paper into "Switch on Ball-Index-Relay" - start a game - then pull-out the stripe of paper --- and do this again and again. Have the pin set to 5 balls per play so You can do more tests before sneaking-in again the stripe of paper. I hope for luck (this posting) - otherwise we should look for to fix the fault "Ball-Index-Relay immediately pulls-in".

In a running "Hollywood" You play a ball, make some bonus - loose the ball - the ball rolls into the Outhole and closes TWO switches --- see the JPG: In the middle of the JPG is the encircled green switch - but because the Bonus-Unit-Switch (to the left) is open (You have made some bonus): The Outhole-Relay does not yet pull-in. The other of the TWO switches is shown encircled grey (on the bottom): You have made some bonus therefore the switch to the right is closed - the Bonus-Collect-Relay pulls-in and makes the Bonus-Ladder to be stepped down.
When the Bonus-Unit steps from pos-1 (one bonus) to pos-Zero (no bonus): The two switches on the Bonus-Unit actuate - the Bonus-Score-Relay drops out and the Outhole-Relay pulls-in (my curved rosa/pink line), the Outhole-Relay stays pulling for almost a turn of 120 degrees - then drops out (encircled brown Motor-Switch-E3 opens, then encircled brown Outhole-Relay-Switch opens). In this time of turning 120 degrees of the motor: There is time to step ONE or maybe TWO steps on the Ball-Count-Unit (top of the JPG, the blue and the red line).

I first would inspect the two Outhole-Switches and the two switches on the Bonus-Unit for proper action. Watch out for the moment the Outhole-Relay pulls-in: FIRST MUST the Bonus-Ladder be stepped down - FIRST must the Bonus-Collect-Relay pull - THEN this relay must drop-out and the Outhole-Relay is allowed to pull-in --- it is allowed to stay pulling for a turn of 120 degree (Motor).
Maybe a friend helps watching the Bonus-Collect-Relay and watching the Outhole-Relay. The Outhole-Relay is not allowed to pull-in more than once.

You are testing - not playing --- to learn about the mysterious stepping on the Ball-Count-Unit: Always have (lets say) two Bonus on the Bonus-Ladder when You loose a played ball. Greetings Rolf

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Hi DryDock
I should not have posted the JPG in post-14 - squeezing stuff --- I should have made what I show here --- see my burgundy-red "1,2,3". You have checked the "2" and the "3" - fine, they do open when position-zero is reached. The "1" is actually not a switch - it is a connection on the bakelite - snowshoe-wipers ride on rivets. I believe there is the problem. But maybe I am chasing an phantom (?). Lets find out - in a running "Hollywood" when the ball is lost: Stepping down the Bonus - then the Outhole-Relay pulls-in ONCE, the motor turns exactly 120 degrees, then the Outhole-Relay drops-out and the motor stops. Within that time the ball is kicked over to the shooter-alley and the Ball-Count-Unit is stepped once or twice (top of JPG, the blue line and the red line).
When the pin faulty "skips" balls - I say: The Outhole-Relay faulty pulls-in again so the "blue line and the red line" (faulty) come into action again - to check this -
Please have the playfield lifted and You simulate playing --- loosing a ball and WATCH the Outhole-Relay --- (when skipping a ball) does the Outhole-Relay pulls-in and let go AND PULLS-IN AND LET GO one or two times more ?

Having the playfield lifted and watching is O.K. when the fault often happens. If the fault seldom, rare happens then the using of an Test-Light*** is more practical --- see my "yellow" drawing of three 12Volt-car-bulbs - they are "one after the other". Have looooong wires so You can take the Test-Light*** through the open coin-door placing the Test-Light*** on the apron / playfield. Whenever the Outhole-Relay pulls: The Test-Light lights up. So You play and have an eye on the Test-Light.

Test-Light***: SteveFury shows here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics#post-2634425 his Test-Light*** for to use with an 24Volt-Circuitry. In the ipdb-schematics "Hollywood" I see: It is run by 30 or 32 Volts - so I added in my JPG a third car-bulb. Greetings Rolf

0Hollywood-Work-09 (resized).jpg

Hi DryDock
thanks for making the Test-Light and showing the video. My first question is: How often does the faulty "too much stepping" happens - lets say You play as many games so the correct stepping from a ball to next ball happens to be just 100 steppings --- out of 100 steppings: How many faulty steppings You have ? "one in a hundred" or "five in a hundred" or 10 or 20 or 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 99 ? The way to troubleshoot is probably different when having 1,5,10 --- or when having 70,80,90,95,99.

The second question is (I do not see the answer in the video) - when the fault happens; Is the ball kicked over to the shooter alley at "FIRST blink of Test-Light means activating of the Outhole-Relay" ? --- or is it at "SECOND blink of Test-Light means activating of the Outhole-Relay" ?

Third question: Is there a difference in "rate / frequenxy / commonness" in "fault happens when You have 1 or 2 bonus on the Bonus-Ladder when loosing the ball" compared with "have many bonus on the Bonus-Ladder" ?

Fourth question: Does the Test-Light blink ALWAYS AFTER the Bonus-Ladder has been counted down (and the fault does not happen ?) ? --- OR, sometimes the Test-Light blinks when the pin still is busy counting down the Bonus-Ladder ? Greetings Rolf

Hi DryDock
the reason I asked the first question is: When the fault happens 70% to 99% - we adjust a switch or "whatever we do" AND the feature afterwards works 1,2,3,4,5 times in a row: We can say "Have fixed". When the fault happens 1% to 10% and we do something AND afterwards the feature works 1,2,3,4,5 times in a row: We cannot say "Have fixed" - we must think of "has coincidently worked 5 times".
The reason I asked the second question is; We still have the fault that the pin makes the Ball-Index-Relay on start-up pull-in and stay pulling (or the specific switch, JPG in post-16, encircled orange, on top of the JPG) switch is closed and makes the pin start on ball-2. O.K. - You always sneak-in the stripe of paper before starting a new game - then pull the stripe out.
In play - when the first attempt to shoot out the ball over to the shooter-alley is NOT successful and the ball rolls back: This makes the Outhole-Relay to pull-in a second time - the mentioned switch is closed - stepping again on the ball --- so we should make the Ball-Kicker to work "on first attempt" - we cannot accept a ball rolling back.
Third and fourth question I asked "beeing open-minded - fault maybe is related with Bonus-Count-Down.

I thought "maybe a good idea is accepting the fault "Ball-Index-Relay pulls-in at start-up" - accept, have this in mind and try fo fix the faulty stepping "in play". By now I think; It is better to look for the cause of "faulty pulling-in at start-up". I refer to post-10, JPG, switches "encircled orange". The switches "on Tilt-Relay, on Ball-Index-Relay***, on 100 to 900 Relay" should be easy to locate --- the "Playfield-Runway-Switch" I am uncertain --- here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1214&picno=46920 in the lower right corner of the pic, mounted on the playfield , angled - I see a switch. And here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1214&picno=14691 up, on the right I believe to see a bent wire to close the switch below. Maybe (maybe) there is the " Playfield-Runway-Switch" to be checked "truely open" ?

Switch on on Ball-Index-Relay***: A short wire runs from the Coil on the relay to a switch mounted on the relay - THIS is the switch to check - "open when the relay is not pulling" ?

Do not only look at the long blades with the contact-points - also look at the short studs opposite - a drop of solder or a dohair crap of wire fallen there ? or one of the short studs bent and making faulty contact ?

Good tip (Your post-21) - the heat-shrink tube. Greetings Rolf

Hi DryDock
thanks for looking up and writing --- all the four mentioned (post-22 and 23) switches are open when the relays /runway-switch are not actuating, hmm. BUT the Ball-Index-Relay does faulty pull-in. Your post-1 does not explicitly says - so I ask: Did You buy the pin with the fault "a new game started does kick out Player-1-Ball-2" ? IF (if, if) an preowner had problems in the pin - tried to fix - messed-up, got frustrated and sold the pin - then we have the problem "We look at the wiring in the schematics and do tests with the schematics-wiring in mind --- but the wiring in Your pin is other / changed. Look at the JPG in post-10 - (small chance) - maybe an preowner onsoldered some wires and later soldered-on the wires - but faulty-soldered / exchanged positions soldered. I mean the three-bladed Playfield-Runway switch --- the middle-blade must have soldered-on "wire-green" --- the switchblade on part of the switch "at rest / not actuated / ball is not rolling over" must have soldered-on "wire-brown-yellow" --- the switchblade with wire-white-red shall only have contact with the middle-blade-green: When the ball rolls over and actuates the switch.
IF (if, if) the preowner soldered-on wire-brown-yellow and wire-white-red "soldered-on positions EXCHANGED": We then have the fault of pulling-in the Ball-Index-Relay. Plese look-up.

The written above is hoping for luck --- for the problem "Ball is not kicked-out at first attempt" we should have someting so we can say "NOW I want the Score-Motor run 120 degrees - it shall make a 'turn' (((of 120 degrees)))". My JPG here shows all switches that make the motor to do a turn --- "encircled green": I think these are "easy to access". ALL these switches have soldered-on wire-green and wire-grey-black. Look-out for a relay / switch EASY to access. Have a game running - wait - the pin idles - doing nothing - THEN hold the metal tip of an (insulated handle) screwdriver onto the TWO switchblades - making contact --- does the Score-Motor runs and makes a turn ?
It would be nice when You'd have two Jumper-Wires coming through the open coin-door / a Jumper-Wire with an switch mounted in the wire - coming through the open coin-door. You can have the playfield raised or have it lowered - whenever You want: You can make the Score-Motor to do a turn. We need this for to test on "ball kicking over to the shooter-alley. Greetings Rolf

0Hollywood-Work-10 (resized).jpg

Hi DryDock
bad luck for me --- the Playfield-Runway-Switch is wired as shown in the schematics --- therefore the fault "Ball-Index-Relay faulty pulling-in too early" is a mystery --- I would like to chase this fault later.

This post is about "maybe there is an mechanical problem on the 'Outhole-Kicker kicking the ball over to the shooter-alley' " (?) Toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons --- You shall never touch bare wire / bare gator-clips - THIRTY Volts !). May want to remove the apron so You can see the ball-guide-lines for this kicking-over feature. Look at the JPG - "green wires" --- clip-on Jumper-Wires or use an Jumper-Wire with an built-in doorbell-pushbutton. Take the ends through the open coin-door out into the open. Have the playfield lifted - plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - accept when the pin kicks the ball out as ball-2. Take the ball out - sneak-in a stripe of paper into one switch on the outhole below the Outhole-Saucer --- sneak-in a stripe of paper into the other switch on the outhole below the Outhole-Saucer --- You now can lay the ball into the Outhole-Saucer and the pin does NOT realize that the ball lays in the Outhole-Saucer (as both switches are electricall open by the sneaked-in stripe of papers). (The pin is running) Take the playfield down, place the ball into the Outhole-Saucer. Make connection (my green wires) - the Outhole-Kicker kicks and You watch - mechanically all good ? You may have to bend on the Kicker-Arm - You may work on the ball-guide-rails - You may put a washer between wood of playfield and the housing of the Kicker-Unit to have the unit in a slightly other angle --- look and do what You can --- the goal is: ON FIRST attempt (Ball-Kicker kicks): The ball securely rolls over to the shooter-alley.
Once You have this: We will look at "JPG, my orange wiring" in combination with "lets make the motor do a turn (You already have tried the "tip-of-screw-driver trick" - You may have tried the "Jumper-Wires hold together version" --- we then take away the "my green stuff" and do "orange stuff connection together with 'lets make the motor run' " -- so through "closing of Motor-Switch-C-1" the Kicker shall kick). Greetings Rolf

0Hollywood-Work-14 (resized).jpg

Hi DryDock
please first read the whole post - then decide what You want to do for the next test - it can be confusing as the post is of "maybe You want to do this --- but when You consider of "something" You also could do it in other way etc."

Hi DryDock
fine - the Outhole-Kicker mechanically works good. Also fine - (You did part of what I want(ed) to do) --- with the (post-26, JPG) orange Jumper AND with the tip of a screwdriver closing SCM-C-1 the Outhole-Kicker also wirks fine. So mechanically and all the wires: Good in the pin - in question is the three-bladed Make-and-Brake-Switch on the Outhole-Relay AND the SCM-C-1.

In the JPG here I show four ways of "how to make the motor to do a turn". A purist may say "In an original pin there is no pushbutton (to make the motor to run) mounted - I do not mount such a thing".
Every solution You can do with two Jumper-Wires clipped-on and taking the ends of the two Jumper-Wires through the open coin-door and then with the playfield down "make connection in the open" - maybe Yo need the help of a friend - one is doing the "connecting" while the other is manipulating on the playfield. I write here "mounting a 'Push-Button-Jumper-Wire":
State of the art is the "my blue version" - everybody sees at first glance what the wiring and switch are made for. The "rosa/pink version" is also easy to understand - the "red version" maybe makes an latter owner to think for a while. The easyest version for You to do is the "my brown version" --- an latter owner then may brood "what did the preowner (You) did with the "COIN-Relay" ??? Well, You are not interested in the COIN-Relay - You just close (by jumpering) "one of the many switches that make the motor to run - choosing the Coin-Relay as it also is mounted on the Mech.-Panel in the Cabinet".
You (+/- easily) can do testing NOT mounting a Jumper-Wire-with-push-Button" --- You do again what You did before writing Your post-27 - BUT You do NOT hold the tip of the screwdriver onto "SCM-C-1" --- You DO HOLD the tip of the screwdriver onto "Switch on COIN-Relay" - with this You MAKE the motor to run (Switch on Coin-Relay closed makes the motor run) - the "orange jumpering" allows "we do not need the Outhole-Relay" - and with the test You check "are the contact-points on the blades on SCM-C-1 clean and do the blades properly close ?". Greetings Rolf
P.S. - doing the "+/- easily": You must consider that You have the playfield lifted - it is "other position" - other than "We really play".

0Hollywood-Work-15 (resized).jpg

Hi DryDock
we still are on the problem "The Ball-Return-Coil (the Outhole-Kicker) MUST securely, always kick the ball over to the shooter-alley AT FIRST attempt" (because we still have the fault of Ball-Index-Relay).
I do dislike to work on Score-Motor-Switches - so I make a lot of tests and only work on these switches when the results of my tests tell me "You must work on THAT Motor-Switch".
If YOU feel comfortable working on Score-Motor-Switches You simply can say "Have checked the Kicker mechanically - it is good --- have feeded the coil by jumpering - it is good --- so I check Score-Motor-Switch-C-1 and check the Make-and-Brake-Switch on the Outhole-Relay (wires soldered-on ? contact-points clean ? switch gapped correct ? (truely open when not activated and securely closed when activated).
If YOU feel comfortable ... You do the checking --- no need to read the rest of this post.

O.K. - before I work on Score-Motor-Switch-C-1 I want to be sure that this switch is (is it ?) faulty.
I use the fact "whenever the motor does a turn of 120 degrees: ALL Score-Motor-Switches are actuated". With the "top of JPG, brown stuff": I make the motor to do a turn when I want to have a turn of the motor.
I start a game - then I sneak-in the stripes of paper into the Outhole-Switches on the playfield below the Outhole - with this I can take the playfield down and put the ball into the Outhole - the pin does not realize (sneaked-in stripes of paper) that the ball is in the Outhole. I make permanent connection jumpering the Outhole-Relay-Switch (bottom of JPG, orange stuff).
Now I can do many times the same test: I have the playfield down - I lay the ball into the outhole - I make the motor to do a turn (top of JPG, brown) --- big question - through the turning motor activating Score-Motor-Switch-C-1: DOES the ball get kicked over EVERY TIME at FIRST attempt ? Greetings Rolf

0Hollywood-Work-16 (resized).jpg

Hi Drydock
You have tested the Outhole-Kicker mechanically - You applied electricity to the coil direct - You did test the Score-Motor-Switch-C-1 --- all good.
Look at the bottom of the JPG in post-30 - remaining to test is the threebladed Make-and-Brake-Switch on the Outhole-Relay AND the question "does eventually the Outhole-Relay faulty quits pulling and so the Make-and-Brake-Switch is entitled to open - for us unfortunately too early" ?
These tests are difficult to do - it is easyer to have a good look at - clean maybe adjust - and hope for luck. Toggle-off the pin / unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) and inspect the mentioned Outhole-RELAY-Switch. Gently pull a bit on the wires - truely soldered-on ? Please use a flexstone or very fine sandpaper and clean the contact-points. Manualy activate the relay and let go - activate and let go --- DOES the switch securely moves / makes contact "wire-green to wire-red-white" ? (((I assume You have done this looking-at already on the Outhole-Switches below the Outhole on the playfield (?) )))
Look at the Outhole-RELAY - from one side of the coil runs a wire to "Switch mounted on the relay" - check THIS switch the same way. Put the pin in "5 balls per game" mode.
Then take away ALL Jumper-Wires - take away ALL sneaked-in stripes of paper. Start a game - accept that the ball given is ball-2. Have the playfield down - make some points then let the ball drain --- the next ball will be given - make some points - let the ball drain - the next ball will be given - make some points - etc. --- DOES the pin gives the next ball ALWYS on "first attempt" ?

IF (if, if) "Yes": would be fine --- IF (if, if) "No": I would like to check the "pulling-in and stay pulling" of the Outhole-RELAY. Please read and look at the JPG here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cfh-spirit-of-76-pioneer-bonus-count-down#post-3879012 --- see how the two car-bulbs (of 12 Volts) are hooked at a "COIL of an relay" see it "on the far right in the JPG". K-Mart and such stores, automotive department, car-electrics --- please buy THREE such bulbs - mount the THREE "in line" as Your pin runs on 30 to 32 Volts - hook this made Test-Light at the Coil on the Outhole-Relay (as shown on the far right in the JPG) - have long wires on the Testlight - take the Test-Light (wired) through the open coin-door out into the open so You can have the playfield down watch the Test-Light and do the tests again - the tests mentioned above --- big question: DOES the Test-Light ALWAYS lights-up the exactly SAME duration of time - DOES the Test-Light only lights-up once ? Greetings Rolf

I hate to bust into this thread but I have a question. I have a Hollywood myself and at some point in its life someone removed the coin door lights as well as the coin mechs. I have replacment light sockets but have no idea which wires should connect to the sockets in order to add lights back to the coin door price plates.

Would someone be able to take a close up picture of their light sockets on this game or look at the schematic and tell me which wires should be used to connect to the light socket? As there seem to be wires for the coin mechs as well as the light sockets, I don't want to use the wrong ones.

Thanks,

Dave

DryDock Thanks for the picture - it really helps!

Dave

Hi DryDock
I am surprised - I hope for "positive surprised". You (still) have the problem in the pin: "Ball-Index-Relay pulls-in too early which makes a new game start in Ball-TWO". And You had the problem "When a ball is lost the pin often steps too much - skipping one or more balls as there are several attempts needed to kick the ball over to the shooter-alley". I then said "lets look at the second problem first" --- You then checked the kicker mechanically - then several tests - Your last answer (post-35) sounds good (exact amount of time AND lights-up together with an Ball-Kick) --- am I allowed to add / read-out: "Whenever a ball is lost and enters the Outhole: FIRST attempt kicks the ball completely over to the shooter-alley" and You can "kind of play" - play a FOUR ball play having the pin set to "5 ball per play" and You play the balls "2,3,4,5" --- may I read this out of Your post-35 ?
IF "No": Please describe what happens --- If "Yes": Write a short note and we start looking at the first problem "Ball-Index-Relay pulls-in too early ...". Greetings Rolf

Hi DryDock
thanks for saying thanks - and thanks for beeing patient --- I make You do a lot of tests - unfortunately I / we do not make progress, hmm.

Please do a test - start a game and whatever ball is kicked-out - launch the ball - make some points and make many bonus on the bonus-ladder. Then let the ball drain and watch the Test-Light (attached on the coil on Outhole-Relay) AND also watch the bonus-ladder on the playfield. The pin does step down the bonus-ladder - step, step, step and finally stepping from ONE bonus to "None, no more, bonus-ladder not lighted anymore" bonus. In this period of time while stepping down the bonus-ladder: The Test-Light is NOT allowed to light-up - does it faulty light-up while stepping down the bonus-ladder ?
Then as the bonus-ladder reaches "zero bonus": The Test-Light must light-up once.

Something strange has showed up --- in my post-14 I was writing about TWO Switches mounted on the Outhole. And by now I am uncertain if there are TWO switches --- or just ONE SWITCH. Please tell me about (one switch or two switches).
I was writing on my suggested (see above) test - had a closer look at the JPG in post-16 and I see something irritating - two me it seems as "Chicago Coins" have two drawings on two places - BUT SHOWING the same wiring / switches - irritating. I put together (mirrowed) schematics EFGH-19/20 together witch ABCD-3/4/5. So by now I believe that the Outhole on the playfield has mounted below: ONLY ONE SWITCH - please tell me about (one switch or two switches).

My "three rosa / pink question marks in the JPG here": Do You have access to Score-Motor-Switch-A-6 - do You see and can You confirm: This switch is securely OPEN when the motor is turning --- is it ? Greetings Rolf

0Hollywood-Work-17 (resized).jpg

Hi DryDock
strange this Outhole-Switch in Your pin --- I know dual switches - see here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dual-point-eos-switches#post-2790113 - but EOS-Switches and my flipperbutton switch(es) also have to handle MUCH CURRENT. Lets accept this strange phenomena in Your pin.

I am eager to make some progress on Your pins problems --- You write "during stepping down the bonus-ladder: The Outhole-Relay does NOT pull-in" - You see this as the Test-Light does NOT shine-up. Then the ball is kicked-over at FIRST attempt. Please try "loosing the ball having 10 bonus" - does the pin acts as we want him to act ? Then try "loosing the ball having 9 bonus" - does the pin acts as we want him to act ? Then try "loosing the ball having 8 bonus" - does the pin acts as we want him to act ? Then "7" ... then "6" then 5 then 4 then 3 then 2 then 1 then Zero bonus. Do ALL these tests work - ball is kicked-over at first attempt ? (((Or when acting faulty: Is there a pattern recognizable ?)))

I do not know the pin --- here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1214&picno=10684 on top of the playfield I see three lanes - the ball must roll through one of them --- question: Do these lanes reward a bonus so EVERY ball launched at least makes one bonus on the bonus-ladder ?

IF (if, if) "with at least one bonus on the bonus-ladder" and the stepping to the next ball always works: You could have the pin in five balls per play mode - and play four ball plays - playing ball-2, -3, -4, -5 --- and we could work on the problem "Ball-Index-Relay pulls-in too early".
I live in Switzerland (south of Germany) - it is 20 minutes before midnight - I go to sleep, till tomorrow, greetings Rolf

Hi Chrimeg
when testing I like to have the playfield down. Chasing the problem we need the information "Outhole-Relay pulls-in / Outhole-Relay stays pulling / Outhole-Relay quits pulling" - but we have the playfield down and so we cannot see the Outhole-Relay. So I suggested (see post-16, JPG - my three yellow bulbs - the Test-Light hooked-on parallel to the Coil on the Outhole-Relay): Lets mount an Test-Light so we see what the Outhole-RELAY is doing. The Test-Light is outside of the pin - long wires run from the Test-Light through the open Coin-Door to "Coil on Outhole-Relay".

Hi DryDock
I am german speaking - sometimes I struggle with the english language. What I meant with post-46 was / is:

First test: Start a game and accept the ball-given - maybe ball-1, maybe ball-2, maybe ball-3 - whatever ball is given. Then make some points and make 10 bonus. Let the ball drain - what happens. With the new ball: Make some points and make 10 bonus. Let the ball drain - what happens. Etc. until Game-Over.

Second test: Start a game and accept the ball-given - maybe ball-1, maybe ball-2, maybe ball-3 - whatever ball is given. Then make some points and make 9 bonus. Let the ball drain - what happens. With the new ball: Make some points and make 9 bonus. Let the ball drain - what happens. Etc. until Game-Over.

Third test: Start a game and accept the ball-given - maybe ball-1, maybe ball-2, maybe ball-3 - whatever ball is given. Then make some points and make 8 bonus. Let the ball drain - what happens. With the new ball: Make some points and make 8 bonus. Let the ball drain - what happens. Etc. until Game-Over.

Fourth test: ... 7 bonus ...
Fifth test: ... 6 bonus ...
etc. --- 5,4,3,2,1,Zero bonus ...

I need to understand the "Bonus counting down when a ball has drained". See the JPG, "encircled light-blue and encircled dark-blue" are the Score-Motor-Switches. I believe that when the Bonus-Count-Down starts and then steps rhythmically: On every turn of 120 degrees the SCM-B-4 acts once as well as the SCM-E-2 acts once. So TWO steps down on every turn of 120 degrees. And when looking at one full revolution (turning 360 degrees) therefore SIX steps down. Please do a new test - put exactly six bonus on the Bonus-Counter - have the playfield lifted - simulate with a finger "ball is lost" - listen to the Bonus-Count-Down-Stepper and watch the turning Score-Motor.
Please confirm or write what happens - I expect "having six bonus on the counter - they will be stepped down within exactly one full revolution, turn of 360 degrees" - what happens ?

As long in time as the pin is busy stepping down the Bonus-Ladder: The Outhole-Relay is not allowed to pull-in - means the Test-Light is not allowed to light-up. See towards the bottom of the JPG (my "red 1") - please check "a Switch on the Bonus-Unit that is opened / closed by a stud on the turning wheel / cam - closed only in position-Zero - truely open in positions-1,2,3,4,5,6 etc." This switch has wired-on wire-black-yellow, wire-black-green --- please check this switch.

See top, left on the JPG: When the Outhole-Relay pulls-in BEFORE the bonus-unit has reached position-zero (the Test-Light lights-up before the bonus-unit has reached position-zero): We must hinder the Outhole-Relay to pull-in with an sneaked-in Push-Button. You wait until the pin has counted down the bonus - THEN after a second: You push the push-button. The wire to be cut is the connecting wire "one side of the coil has a short wire running to 'switch mounted on the relay' ". Greetings Rolf

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