I went to the bank yesterday, emptied my wallet onto the counter and the clerk somehow sent it through wires to PPS and now I have an LE on the way. Neat!
(Topic ID: 188092)
Linked Games
Attack From Mars (Remake - Classic)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017-
Attack From Mars (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
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Attack From Mars (Remake - Special)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
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Big Bang Bar
Capcom, 1996
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Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
Topic Gallery
Sydney
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:I'll never get one but I still kinda want one
I remember saying the same thing when after I purchased my first pin over 20 years ago. Now I have 13 counting my AMFRLE. Never say never 
Quoted from pocketscience:Xmas might be off the table now
!?^*!&?* Throw a run of 50 in there somewhere...come on! I was hoping to grab one this Fall at least. Is this a ploy to get people to go for the SE's?
Denver, CO
Quoted from Wickerman2:!?^*!&?* Throw a run of 50 in there somewhere...come on! I was hoping to grab one this Fall at least. Is this a ploy to get people to go for the SE's?
That has been plan all along to build last.. But they are building at a good pace so they might get some CE's off the line before xmas but not likely Fall
Quoted from Gexchange:That has been plan all along to build last.. But they are building at a good pace so they might get some CE's off the line before xmas but not likely Fall
Are they going to drop a few extra SE's in your lap just in case people get antsy? 
Quoted from Wickerman2:Are they going to drop a few extra SE's in your lap just in case people get antsy?
I think I have 2 Extra that left there yesterday. I need to get my ducks in a row to confirm that. which on my to do list today
JJ
Quoted from stpcore:I was reading in the unboxing thread that the GI cannot be customized LED boards are being used instead of LED bulbs. I was really hoping to have a cool white (not warm white) LEDs in my GI. Anyone know if those GI LED boards are cool white or warm white (similar to incandescent)?
You can change them. You'll just need to do a bit of soldering. It'll likely void the warranty though.
Quoted from stpcore:I was reading in the unboxing thread that the GI cannot be customized LED boards are being used instead of LED bulbs. I was really hoping to have a cool white (not warm white) LEDs in my GI. Anyone know if those GI LED boards are cool white or warm white (similar to incandescent)?
If they are the same ones used in MMr, they look great. A traditional cool white would look awful.
Quoted from chrisnack:If they are the same ones used in MMr, they look great. A traditional cool white would look awful.
Why do you think a cool white GI would look awful? I personally prefer it.
Quoted from stpcore:Why do you think a cool white GI would look awful? I personally prefer it.
My opinion i guess, it looks wrong and too harsh. I run warm white faceted in most of my games. Similar to what MMr has. I think the colors are warmer and better with WW than CW.
I have zero complaints about the lightning in MMr.
I will say i run PDI/Roman glass and the difference in colors etc is easily noticed over standard glass.
Quoted from stpcore:Why do you think a cool white GI would look awful? I personally prefer it.
Cool white = modern.
When I first got my MMR, it immediately looked "dated" along my lineup, with its yellowish hue. I swapped the GI for cool white and now it looked like it belonged with modern games.
I realize this is a matter of taste, and fortunately for me I was able to mod the game to match the rest of my collection.
Quoted from frolic:Cool white = modern.
When I first got my MMR, it immediately looked "dated" along my lineup, with its yellowish hue. I swapped the GI for cool white and now it looked like it belonged with modern games.
I realize this is a matter of taste, and fortunately for me I was able to mod the game to match the rest of my collection.
I guess this is exactly what my concern is. I don't want AFM to look "dated" in my lineup. It will drive me nuts having all the great LE upgrades and then having an incandescent looking lighting effect that I can't change to a more modern cool white.
Quoted from stpcore:Why do you think a cool white GI would look awful? I personally prefer it.
Because some people just like warm white better then cool white. It's just a matter of personal option. One doesn't make it look any better or not except in the eye of the beholder. Yeah I once swore I would never use LEDS. Then I swore I would never use cool whites. I'm old school all the way! Guess who's now putting cool whites in his games??? Me!
Quoted from Gexchange:On our showroom floor SE they are Warm.. See pictures below
Can those be changed? Are there different GI bulbs/boards that were used on the original demo units versus what is being shipped now? Thanks for posting, JJ.
As some of you might know, Nifty LED provides the bulbs for Chicago Gaming's Medieval Madness and Attack From Mars remakes. As of now, all games ship with Warm White bulbs for the general illumination, but we've heard feedback that people would like a Cool White option. To accommodate people who would prefer Cool White, we're now selling this bulb for use in Chicago Gaming machines.
In the future, if there's enough of a demand, we will be offering different colors in addition to Cool White.
You can get the Cool White bulbs here: http://www.niftyled.com/chicago-gaming-gi-bulb-cool-white/
If you have questions, please ask!
Thank You,
Nifty LED
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Quoted from NiftyLED:Please let us know what your questions are!
Interesting. Are these plug and play or is soldering required?
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Interesting. Are these plug and play or is soldering required?
100% plug and play
Quoted from NiftyLED:Nifty LED has partnered with Chicago Gaming to produce a General Illumination bulb to their specifications. We have seen mentions of a desire for Cool White bulbs instead of the Warm White that the game currently ships with.
Nifty LED will be selling this bulb immediately in Cool White and if there is demand for additional colors we will make those available also.
Totally acceptable solution. Even if the bulb is unique, at least it's an option to swap it.
Quoted from NiftyLED:Nifty LED will be selling this bulb immediately in Cool White
I have a feeling you're going to sell a bunch of these.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:I have a feeling you're going to sell a bunch of these.
Me too. My SE comes next week. What's the total count for GI bulbs?
Quoted from stpcore:Can those be changed? Are there different GI bulbs/boards that were used on the original demo units versus what is being shipped now? Thanks for posting, JJ.
Nifty Beat me to it and with a great answer!
I think it looks great as is. But if you are a CW kinda guy then boom you got an answer!
JJ
Quoted from NiftyLED:CGC_DougS may have to chime in to confirm this, but I believe it is 31 total GI bulbs
Thanks!
Quoted from dzoomer:Same as MMR? And any idea on amount?
MMR as of now still uses a standard 44/47 bulb for their GI - as for the amount, I'm not sure...
Huge surprise today. Both my AFMr SE, and my MMR will be delivered to my house next week. What a way to start the weekend. Thanks Game Exchange of Colorado! JJ and his team ROCK.
The downside - Hamburger Helper for the next year.
Quoted from Higloss67:Huge surprise today. Both my AFMr SE, and my MMR will be delivered to my house next week. What a way to start the weekend. Thanks Game Exchange of Colorado! JJ and his team ROCK.
Awesome....Congrats!!
Quoted from Higloss67:The downside - Hamburger Helper for the next year.
Quoted from NiftyLED:As some of you might know, Nifty LED provides the bulbs for Chicago Gaming's Medieval Madness and Attack From Mars remakes. As of now, all games ship with Warm White bulbs for the general illumination, but we've heard feedback that people would like a Cool White option. To accommodate people who would prefer Cool White, we're now selling this bulb for use in Chicago Gaming machines.
In the future, if there's enough of a demand, we will be offering different colors in addition to Cool White.
You can get the Cool White bulbs here: http://www.niftyled.com/chicago-gaming-gi-bulb-cool-white/
If you have questions, please ask!
Thank You,
Nifty LED
I'd like to personally THANK YOU for posting this and offering the cool whites option!!! This literally made my pinball day. Im going to order a set now. Again...thanks!!!
JJ should have one more slot as I cancelled my SE that was due to ship Monday. I just paid for a Dialed In LE last week and did not think both pins would be shipping so soon. I'll maybe get one next go around in the fall or see how Star Wars Premium shakes out.
Quoted from Higloss67:Game Exchange of Colorado! JJ and his team ROCK.
X2.. JJ at GEX is top shelf! 
Quoted from stpcore:I just ordered 40 of the Cool Whites for AFMLE. Thanks again NiftyLED for listening to customer feedback and giving us options to personalize our machines. This entire experience with the AFMLE preorder had been very pleasant and full of nice surprises.
Some choice colors look great in afm also .... especially sone red in the back area near the pops.
Quoted from Higloss67:Huge surprise today. Both my AFMr SE, and my MMR will be delivered to my house next week. What a way to start the weekend. Thanks Game Exchange of Colorado! JJ and his team ROCK.
The downside - Hamburger Helper for the next year.
Don't forget to switch in the tuna helper once in a while. mmmmmmm
Calgary, AB
To offer a protector the offers no protection is stupid. Come on guys you're better than this!
The protector is too shallow and doesnt lay flush with the surface of the playfield.
Are they installed incorrectly or is the part out of spec?
This mantis style protector must lay flush with the playfield surface, Or possibly just a hair above.
There must be a problem with the measurement of the thickness of the playfield that was sent to the metal fabricator. These are off 1/16" or more from what I have seen in the initial unboxings.
All clearcoated edges must be covered and protected. Otherwise you will absolutely get chipping and abnormal wear.
These will have to be recalled and redone.
Any word on this Doug? Rick?
Quoted from pinballinreno:To offer a protector the offers no protection is stupid
Exactly. I'm hoping this is just a one-off issue and not a sign of ineptitude.
Quoted from pinballinreno:To offer a protector the offers no protection is stupid.
The protector is too shallow and doesnt lay flush with the surface of the playfield.
Are they installed incorrectly or is the part out of spec?
This mantis style protector must lay flush with the playfield surface, Or possibly just a hair above.
There must be a problem with the measurement of the thickness of the playfield that was sent to the metal fabricator. These are off 1/16" or more from what I have seen in the initial unboxings.
All clearcoated edges must be covered and protected. Otherwise you will absolutely get chipping and abnormal wear.
These will have to be recalled and redone.
Any word on this Doug? Rick?
yikes
Quoted from pinballinreno:This mantis style protector must lay flush with the playfield surface, Or possibly just a hair above.
Mantis style protectors traditionally would sit slightly below the playfield surface.. hence why they were preferred as interfering less with the hole/shot compared to cliffy style protectors that were 'over the edge'.
The scoop takes damage as the balls bounce off the back of the scoop and on games like AFM.. from balls coming in from the side angles and hitting the opposite edge of the hole. You don't need the protector above or flush with the PF. The thickness of the metal itself allows it to sit that dimension under the edge and still prevent a hit against the edge of the PF.
Quoted from flynnibus:Mantis style protectors traditionally would sit slightly below the playfield surface.. hence why they were preferred as interfering less with the hole/shot compared to cliffy style protectors that were 'over the edge'.
The scoop takes damage as the balls bounce off the back of the scoop and on games like AFM.. from balls coming in from the side angles and hitting the opposite edge of the hole. You don't need the protector above or flush with the PF. The thickness of the metal itself allows it to sit that dimension under the edge and still prevent a hit against the edge of the PF.
How you described this is exactly how our SE on our showroom floor is setup.
JJ
Quoted from flynnibus:Mantis style protectors traditionally would sit slightly below the playfield surface.. hence why they were preferred as interfering less with the hole/shot compared to cliffy style protectors that were 'over the edge'.
The scoop takes damage as the balls bounce off the back of the scoop and on games like AFM.. from balls coming in from the side angles and hitting the opposite edge of the hole. You don't need the protector above or flush with the PF. The thickness of the metal itself allows it to sit that dimension under the edge and still prevent a hit against the edge of the PF.
hmm interesting
Quoted from flynnibus:Mantis style protectors traditionally would sit slightly below the playfield surface.. hence why they were preferred as interfering less with the hole/shot compared to cliffy style protectors that were 'over the edge'.
The scoop takes damage as the balls bounce off the back of the scoop and on games like AFM.. from balls coming in from the side angles and hitting the opposite edge of the hole. You don't need the protector above or flush with the PF. The thickness of the metal itself allows it to sit that dimension under the edge and still prevent a hit against the edge of the PF.
Sounds good... except the pic he provided shows the CC already damaged on the right side of his scoop. So it doesn't seem to be fully working despite the "debate".
For the record the Mantis I have on my original sits exactly flush to the top of the PF. Not below the edge... though I've seen others that way.
Quoted from flynnibus:Mantis style protectors traditionally would sit slightly below the playfield surface.. hence why they were preferred as interfering less with the hole/shot compared to cliffy style protectors that were 'over the edge'.
The scoop takes damage as the balls bounce off the back of the scoop and on games like AFM.. from balls coming in from the side angles and hitting the opposite edge of the hole. You don't need the protector above or flush with the PF. The thickness of the metal itself allows it to sit that dimension under the edge and still prevent a hit against the edge of the PF.
Still, it looks a little low, and some chipping had been reported.
I think it has to be like 1/32" below the playfield surface to be effective in all cases.
Higher than the playfield surface just nicks the ball up.
If the protector offered isnt adequate, a cliffy will do the job after the fact.
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