(Topic ID: 28307)

CFTBL switch issues

By McSirTuna

11 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by McSirTuna
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

#1 11 years ago

Hello, been on the site for awhile, but new to posting...

Just recently after I had everything working I went to play the next day and I noticed the outhole switch wasn't reading when the ball drained. A little bit more investigation showed that all switches on row 5 weren't working. These switches were all previously working. When the outhole wasn't reading I lifted up the playfield slightly and it read for a bit and kicked the ball over. Right now it seems I can't get it to work at all anymore.

I checked the voltage at the pin coming off the board (J208-5)and I have voltage at the pin. I can check the voltage at the switches and they seem to show voltage there too. I'm pretty stumped as to why they aren't reading but it seems I have voltage.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

#2 11 years ago

The switches have a send and return side. You're reading voltage from the send (column side). Your problem is with the row (return) side.

Since none of the switches in row 5 are working and moving the playfield did make it momentarily work I'd look for a broken wire or bad connection. Check the switch matrix page in the manual and it'll give you the wire color and connector for row 5.

#3 11 years ago

So I've got the wire color (white-green). I can trace the wire all the way from the J208-5 connection to the final switch ... I don't see any broken wires or loose connections. I did also check continuity from the J208-5 connection point on the connector to the left lane rollover and got a beep. Then checked from there to the outhole connection and also got a beep. I would figure if I had a broken wire, I wouldn't show continuity between the connector and the switches.

I went back to test switches and still none of the switches register. Any more thoughts on things to check? I'm still quite stumped.

#4 11 years ago

Check from the male connector (soldered to the board) to the white-green wire. Just to make sure you don't have a connection problem. At that point are you comfortable taking voltage measurements with a DMD on the board?

#5 11 years ago

I did a continuity check between the bowl switch and the diode lead on the board behind the dmd with the switch connected and I got a beep. So it seems that it is definitely connected. And I am comfortable taking measurements, just not sure what else to check.

If its a problem with the board, I wouldn't have expected for it to be intermittent when I moved the playfield before. But I have also removed the board two times now to check it out and I don't see anything too obvious, but am also not entirely sure what to look at if I'm showing voltage at the pin and and continuity to the switches.

- I appreciate the input thus far though.

#6 11 years ago

If you remove the row and col connectors from the board and go into switch edge test, you can use a wire to jump the pins and register each switch. I'd test this then you know if it's a board or wiring issue.

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from McSirTuna:

If its a problem with the board, I wouldn't have expected for it to be intermittent when I moved the playfield before.

I agree, but you never know. Try the test markmon suggested and see what happens.

#8 11 years ago

If the entire row is out I would look for a break in the daisy chain of switches / wiring. I had a Junkyard that had a similar issue. In my case one of the wires that was inside of a connector that looked OK was actually not making contact. I used and alligator clip jumper and went down all the switches in the row with the jumper and found the connector not making contact. This was where 2 wires were daisy chained from one switch to another.

Markmon made a good point to narrow your search.

#9 11 years ago

I wanna say thanks for the feedback, I appreciate the help and any thoughts that anyone gave.
Yesterday I did some extra tests to verify it was the board. I jumped the column switch directly to each row switch and everything worked properly except row 5 switches. So I took the CPU board back out to do some further investigation.

Using my MM I did continuity checks starting at the diode and moving backwards based on the schematic. Diode 7 and cap 7 were good with R 60 and 59. Resistors both read correctly as well. R59 showed good to leg 11 on U19. Using the other rows I was able to determine which legs on U19 were which numbers. Then checking leg 13 to R31 gave me nothing! Bingo. This resistor also had a little acid damage from the batteries. Which I cleaned up twice. So while I had it out, I reflowed the solder on the point, still no continuity. Reflowed the solder on U19 - 13, still no continuity. Tried to add solder to the resistor, still nothing.

So just to test, I soldered a jumper between the resistor leg and U19-13. Continuity - yes (no surprise though). Re-installed the board, and everything has been working perfectly. All switches are registering perfectly. I've put a few games on it and everything is still good.

Conclusion, it has to be acid damage breaking the connection in the board at the resistor. I'm being a little lazy and just trying to enjoy a few games with it working 100% before I go back in to pull the board back out. It looks like I will have to pull the resistor off the board and clean out all the solder to make sure it's good.

I just wanted to leave my conclusion in case anyone else has a similar issue.

Thanks again

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 5.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
Trade
Machine - For Trade
East Rutherford, NJ
$ 10.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
$ 9.95
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 1.29
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 27.95
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
€ 24.00
$ 280.00
Playfield - Other
Avid Creations Wireforms
 
$ 45.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 549.00
Playfield - Other
Juz PINBALL Mods
 
$ 1,059.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
7,600
Machine - For Sale
Anaheim, CA
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 17.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
West Chicago, IL
$ 250.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
€ 24.50
Playfield - Decals
Pin-Decals
 
7,500
Machine - For Sale
Matthews, NC
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cftbl-switch-issues and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.