(Topic ID: 238694)

CFTBL No DMD... would appreciate help.

By lancemoody

5 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by lancemoody
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#1 5 years ago

Hi Guys,

The DMD in my CFTB has suddenly stopped working. No dots or signs of dots at all.

Machine seems to be functioning fine otherwise, flippers work, etc.

I took the DMD itself out and tested it in my TZ and the display does seem to work fine.

After reading here, I checked the fuses and don't see any that look bad. I do know how to test continuity and tested the fuses on the dmd driver board and also F116 on the driver board and seem to have continuity there (I also checked other fuses but not all of them).

I also looked at the purple connector in the lower cabinet (another possibility mentioned here) and it is not loose.

Hopeful that someone here can offer advice.

I know that folks often suggest testing for voltages when offering advice but I am ashamed to say that I don't know how. I have a multi meter (see photo) and would be happy to test if some kind person could tell me how to set the dial and where to plug what.

Many thanks in advance!
IMG_0613 (resized).jpgIMG_0613 (resized).jpg

#2 5 years ago

V~ is for AC voltages and the symbol below it is for DC voltages. Select V~ 200 for working with any AC test points under 200 volts. Same theory for the DC range, select 20 for most DC test points. It will work with a higher value like 600 but typically slower to read. If you select too low a setting for a reading like 2 when reading a 12v test point it will typically indicate "OL" or out of limit meaning you need to go to a higher range. Other useful settings on the right is for resistance and the 200/>>> is a continuity test and the 2k value above it is for diode test. Those lead positions should work for all those ranges and the right plug is for high amp readings which you will not need.

As for the DMD issue check all ribbon cables first, then start tracing volts.

#3 5 years ago

Manual should have voltages. Or Pinwiki on what they should be.

Easy to learn. Youtube is littered with short how to videos, may even have one for your meter.

You'll be glad you did.

LTG : )

#4 5 years ago

Did you remove the fuse to test it? You can't truly test a fuse without removing it. Or maybe swap cables from your TZ one at a time to test those. Troubleshoot by eliminating the easy stuff first.

#5 5 years ago

Did you check your ribbon cable? if you connect it wrong your dmd won't do anything.

#6 5 years ago

Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice!

Because I have a TZ, I thought it might be more prudent to just check and see if the DMD controller board from it worked in my CFTBL and vice versra.

CFTBL DMD board in TZ: No DMD
TZ DMD board in CFTBL: DMD Works fine.

So bad board, right?

I took out the fuses in the bad board and tested for continuity and they both seem to be working.

So I am fine with buying a new board-- there is a Rotten dog one, I see, unless anyone has any better advice.

Best,

Lance

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from lancemoody:

has any better advice.

If high power section on your DMD driver board needs fixing, I'd do this.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-dmd-high-power-replacement-board.html

LTG : )

#8 5 years ago

or get a full rebuild kit for mere dollars from Ed at great plains and rebuild the original leaving space for that resistor thats probably burnt on his.
A trace gets taken out underneath that resistor from getting so hot and well there you go. I bet dollars to donuts thats whats wrong here.
Easy fix if you have the tools. post a pic of the board HV section.
original boards are always worth fixing if at all possible.

#9 5 years ago

And for future reference try to not swap boards between games. Sometimes it works out good but other times it goes bad and the board causes problems in your previously working game when you try to put the boards back.

Always best to test.
Cheers and good luck on your repair. HV rebuild is easy peasy.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from lancemoody:

Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice!
Because I have a TZ, I thought it might be more prudent to just check and see if the DMD controller board from it worked in my CFTBL and vice versra.
CFTBL DMD board in TZ: No DMD
TZ DMD board in CFTBL: DMD Works fine.
So bad board, right?
I took out the fuses in the bad board and tested for continuity and they both seem to be working.
So I am fine with buying a new board-- there is a Rotten dog one, I see, unless anyone has any better advice.
Best,
Lance

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a ColorDMD instead? Then you can take your time to fix the original.

1 week later
#11 5 years ago

Thanks very much, everyone. I ended up getting a Rotten Dog version of the board and all is working fine now. I may someday learn how to repair the old board but didn't feel like it was gonna be too soon.

Lance

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